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Nenad Ilijic

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  1. Hello everyone, I played around a bit with a stowage options for Ausf. H. It will probably look like this. I may add fascines as well if I figure out how to make them. It is mostly Value Gear, except the wooden box, which is some other brand (I don't remember which) with lid added. It is not exactly the same as seen on a reference photo, but close enough. Ausf H. received Mr.Surfacer 1500 primer. I did some additional cleanup before applying RAL 7021. This time, it was Gunze lacquer (Mr.Color 513). It is not that accurate straight from the bottle because it's a bit on a light side, but I love using Mr. Color for base coat. When cured, it is extremely hard and it can endure all kind of harassment. Also, it will be covered almost completely by RAL 8000. Wheels of PR 8 tanks were painted white to protect rubber from overheating. However the paint rubbed off from most of the wheels after the few months. It usually remained visible on the return rollers. There's chipping fluid applied before white paint, so I will additionally chip the white paint. Ausf. H will be shelved for some time for now waiting for the RAL 8000, and I am switching back to the Ausf. G. Decals are applied. These are Archer's dry transfer decals. Applying them always makes me nervous, because there are so many ways to screw things up. Some of them were applied as dry transfers, while some were first applied to decal film and than applied as water slides (turret number for example). Anyway, the disaster was avoided this time Font is a bit different compared to the real vehicle, but it works for me. I usually don't like applying varnishes and avoid them whenever I can, but this time I had to apply some (Mr. Premium Clear Flat) to seal the decals and to protect the base paint, which is Mission Models and is a bit fragile. And finally, after spraying few coats of chipping fluid, here's the camouflage color applied. It was applied very sparingly. Looking at the photos of PR 5 vehicles, including 131, it was the case in real life. The reason for this is probably because all of the vehicles had to be painted in one night and they probably had very little time per vehicle to paint it. Also, I guess that paint supply was very limited. Some of the PR 5 vehicles were almost unpainted, with only few streaks here and there. It is not known which paint was used, except the fact that it was yellow and lighter than RAL 8000. There are many theories and I am leaning to the one that it was Italian paint, but it is just I guess. I used MRP Light Stone, which actually is not light stone because I got a bad batch. But it looks good to my eye. After that, I did just very mild chipping: And than tracks. Blackening fluid applied. I used VMS blackening fluid, but the old version, where you have to apply two different chemicals. Even though I was trying to remove all the bubbles, it was not very successful, and most of the nooks and crannies were unaffected by the blackening fluid. Fortunately, shiny metal is partly covered by the residue so it is not that visible. I will have to find some better way to deal with bubbles in the future. That's it for now folks. Cheers, Nenad
  2. Great work Bertie. I thanks for sharing some info about this unusual subject. Didn't know anything about it. Best, Nenad
  3. Hello everyone, Ausf. H construction is almost complete. It was a bit more straightforward build than Ausf. G, probably because I was well aware of all of the problems of Dragon's instruction sheet. Some changes and scratch work were needed, partly because this kit is intended to be used for Tauch version, and partly because of many modifications being made before these tanks were shipped to Africa. Some of the changes are specific for Panzer Regiment 8 in particular. These large tool boxes are not standard. They are specific to PR 8 tanks (Ausf H and some Ausf J). Not sure if these were used in other units. Anyway, I scratched it from some styrene and etched spare parts. Spare wheels are not included in this kit either, so I used some wheels from Academy Ausf. J kit and added spare wheel holders. Notek light is also not included. Used one from Academy kit as well. Jerry can holder of this type is also specific to Panzer Regiment 8, although it was later adopted in other units (slightly modified). The one used here is modified Royal Model jerry can holder. Aerial wooden holder is also modified and I think it is specific to Panzer Regiment 8 vehicles. It is inclined and I think that it is shorter than a standard holder. The reason for this is to make space for the spare wheel. So I had to modify one supplied in the box and to make new supports for it. I am not sure at all about the position of jack block. It looks like on some of the photos that there are two box like objects, one on top of the other. So my guess was that it is standard small toolbox and jack block on top of it. Not sure how user friendly this was, but looking at the photos, I can't see jack block anywhere. Maybe in the large tool box? Don't know. Aerial and engine grilles are Aber AM parts. Spare track segment holder attached to the glacis is scratched from styrene strips. I also added some damage to the fenders. Metal barrel with canvas protection and canvas cover for MGs is AM from DEF Models. Great stuff, I really like it. Does anyone know what was the canvas color? There's a spare link segment attached to the back as well. Looking at the photos, it's not the early version of 61/400/120, but the later one, which is still 61/400/120 but with the slots for ice sprags. I used Academy's indy links to build this segment. The rest of the tracks will be early 61/400/120 without slots, because they were almost exclusively seen on the first batch of Ausf. Hs delivered to PR 8. Here's the layout from the top: I have no idea where S hooks and crank bar were stored. Can't see them on any photos. Also, not sure about crowbar. I placed it behind the large toolbox, but I doubt that it was kept there. I think that the only addition left are four holders at the rear that are also specific to Panzer Regiment 8. Marked with 1 on the following photo: There were initially used to store fascine bundles. It is interesting that thanks were shipped with fascine bundles, probably because it was hard to find them in NA. I still have to attach them. I made them from the PE leftovers. This garbage is usually very useful to build all kinds of stuff. You can see on the reference photo that the right fender is damaged and completely bent upward (2). Having no PE fenders, I tried to reproduce this by damaging the styrene once. Not perfect, but I hope it'll work. That is it for now. Generally, these were very nice builds. Fit is almost perfect, details are nice.... both kits are top quality. The only problem is instruction sheet, which is really bad with so many errors. Next, I'll be priming Ausf. H and painting it with base RAL 7021. Till next time. Cheers, Nenad
  4. Beautiful model Wayne. Everything is just fantastic! Great job with the paintwork, Valentine is a bit tricky to mask properly. I like those detail shots very much. Have this one in my stash, now I know where to look for inspiration Cheers, Nenad
  5. Hi everyone, I had some health issues last few weeks (they are not caused by building two set of tracks simultaneously ) so I was not very productive. Anyway, both sets of tracks are finished. You can see the difference between the Kgs 6111/380/120 and Kgs 61/400/120. Assembling wider Kgs 61/400/120 was quite easier, I guess because the track links are bigger. They are both very nice, with great details, especially for metal tracks. And most importantly, both fit idlers and drive sprockets perfectly Ausf. G is being primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500. And covered with base color of RAL 7021. I used Real Color for the lower hull and Mission Models for the upper hull. Real Color tends to be very flat and to grip pigments too much (even after being covered by camo color), so I usually avoid using it on upper surfaces because it's hard to control. It might be only me though I would simply use MRP or Gunze, but I don't have it at the moment. Regarding camouflage color used on Panzer Regiment 5 tanks initially, there is a long and inconclusive debate about this. I think I started a thread some time ago about this here on this forum, but there are discussions about this topic on many other forums as well. Bottom line, other than the fact that it was yellow color (from a diary of one of the soldiers) and that it was much paler than later RAL 8000, there's no answer to this question. I am leaning toward the idea that it was Italian paint, but this is just a guess. I will be simply using something pale yellow, most probably my faulty MRP Light Stone. Anyway, Ausf. G will be shelved for some time now and I'll switch to Ausf.H. I will be building this one, which is Panzer Regiment 8, 15th Panzer Division tank, from the 6th company, number 632. These photos were taken during rehearsal, probably November 1941, before operation Crusader. This tank is probably one of the initial Panzer Regiment 8 tanks, delivered during April 1941. There will be some guesswork involved because I don't have photos from all angles. However, there are many photos of other tanks from the same company, so I'll use them to fill in the gaps. Also, I am thinking to add fascines at the rear, because they were very characteristic for PR 8 tanks. Do you guys have any idea how to model them? Easy way Cheers, Nenad
  6. Very interesting! If I had known... built AFV Club version recently, it was frustrating experience. I like that canvas cover, it looks great.
  7. Thank you Kristjan. How do you deal with resin pins (because they are not effected by burnishing fluid)? Do you paint them? Or there is some trick to deal with them that I am not aware of Best, Nenad
  8. Wow, this paper shaper is so interesting. Does it really work as advertised? If yes, it is super useful than. I tried making tarps with miliput but I don't like that it is not easy to make them thin enough. Regarding photos, I don't edit background. I'm just taking photos in the light box. I'm using two different vinyl backgrounds, white and black. Although models on black background do look more dramatic, I prefer white ones... I think that they look more natural and details look better. This is the light box I am using: Godox LST-80 and I am quite happy with it. Other than that, I do only minimal editing in Adobe Lightroom... mostly fixing the white balance and exposure. I am really not an expert in photography and I am just following some useful tips I got from the fellow modeler from this forum @diablo rsv, using low shutter speeds (around 0.5sec), large F numbers such as F/11+, and ISO at 100. I am using Nikon D3500 DSLR Camera with it's default AF-P 18-55mm VR Lens. Hope it's helpful. Cheers, Nenad
  9. I can only repeat what others say. Fantastic work. Masterpiece! Cheers, Nenad
  10. Wow this thing looks massive! Fantastic job! Cheers, Nenad
  11. Great job so fat... and this thread is hilarious Cheers, Nenad
  12. Hello everyone, This time, I will be using Master Club, early Kgs 6111/380/120 narrow tracks. When building these, I usually stick them to double sided tape, to keep them in place while I'm inserting the pins. In my opinion at least, Master Club tracks are much better molded than Fruils. Better details, almost no cleanup is needed and you don't have to drill the holes for the pins. Assembly time is half of the time I need for Fruils. Working with pins may be a bit intimidating (I pinged at least dozen of them), and if they get stuck and break, which does not happen very often, but it happens, it is PITA to pull them out. Also, Master Club guys were very generous with spare links. It's written on the box that there are 220 links. You need 93 per side. However, there were at least 240 in the box, maybe even more. Which was great for this build because there are several segments of spare tracks on this tank. Also, a lot of spare pins, which is really necessary, because many of them will break or ping to nowhere. What I usually do is I am using few links less that the number in the specification. It was quite often the case that with the right number of links, tracks are too long, and than you have to bother removing the links. So I used 90 links per side here and here's the result: In this case, 96 links were needed per side to achieve the sag that I wanted to achieve: I know it's not 93 as per specification, but I would rather see them looking right to my eye. And here is a spare segment attached to the front, with two flimsies like on the reference photo: And here's the rear segment: I notices something interesting while looking at the reference photo. Two links are attached upside down. I am not sure why (maybe it is easier to attach the segment that way), but I made it like it's on a reference photo. There's one more spare track segment on the fender. Also, managed to finished the hatch lids (inner side), because they will be opened: Now that I am in the mood of building tracks, I'll assemble the set for my other build, Ausf. H. I'll use Master Club as well, but early wide version (40cm), Kgs 61/380/120. Hope I won't go crazy from this effort Cheers, Nenad
  13. Hi guys, I did some work on the turret in the past few days. I thought that there is turret stowage bin included in the kit, but I was wrong. Only lid and the front lid panel are included, while the basket is missing. Fortunately, there was one in the Academy kit that I am using as a source for missing parts. However, it's the late mounting bracket type, and these Ausf. Gs used early type, so I had to improvise a bit. Here's the difference between early and late mounting bracket type: I just had to remove the screws from the hook, put the bracket and put the screws back. I used some spare PE parts from previous builds for the brackets. Turret extractor fan is usually seen in two different positions on Ausf Gs, sometimes its closer to the middle of the turret and sometimes, closer to the edge. Looking at reference photos It is impossible to determine for sure which is the case with 131 tank, so I chose the option that's closer to the middle, because it was more common. And here are all turret sub assemblies finished: I also noticed that there were two improvised spare wheel holders attached to the rear of the tank that I missed before. It's not possible to determine how exactly they looked like on 131 photos, but there are photos of other tanks from the same batch where it's easier to figure out, like this one: I scratched them from some styrene stripes: I managed to build dozen of jerry cans that I'll need for both builds. These are AFV Club jerry cans (German and Italian versions): That's it for now. Next step - tracks. It will be Master Club this time... 200 links and 400 pins... have to prepare myself for this daunting task Cheers, Nenad
  14. Hello everyone Finally replaced the aerials. I used 0.14mm fishing line. It is super easy to work with it, especially because it is possible to shrink and tighten up the thread by it using hot object. @Bertie Psmith thanks for the advice! Uschi van den Rosten I ordered still didn't arrive Thanks to everyone for the advices. Cheers, Nenad
  15. Hi guys, I am back from vacation and made some progress over the weekend. Hull is mostly assembled. I also added some lifting cable damage to the fenders, because it's quite visible on reference photos. Also, added some wiring: Beside some building, I did some research about the reference photos, trying to figure out where and when exactly were they taken. I know that I could build a model without knowing that, but I would miss all the fun of the detective work With a help of the fellow modelers, now I can say that photos were taken in Derna Pass, around April 10th, 1941. You can see the discussion here. Cheers, Nenad
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