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Diorama Content

Showing topics in Diorama Chat, Work In Progress - Dioramas and Ready For Inspection - Dioramas.

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  1. Today
  2. Today I've made a fair bit of progress, constructing the window frames and preparing the window apertures for their fixing. This involved a bit of scraping away at the window aperture corners with a scalpel. The windows now fit nice and snug. But I won't be fixing them into place until after they and the window apertures are fully painted and weathered, and after the glazing has been added. I also constructed the door frame and made a start at scraping away at the surround in order to get it to fit. For now it is just leaning against the building for photographic purposes. Finally, I cut out the hatch for under the external stairway. I've scored some very fine 'grain' into the wood with a scalpel, and deeper grain at the bottom edge to show wear and tear and a bit of rotting due to dampness. This should show up nicely once painted. All doors and windows dry fitted: Take note of the upper floor door's orientation. The box art and instructions show the door opening right to left. Well, I'd like to see someone exit the building and descend the stairs if the door opened that way. It would block access to the stairs. It would also mean having to step back towards the stairs or and then squeezing around the door when entering. A bit dangerous I'd have thought! Far more sensible to have it open left to right and rest against the end railings out of the way. The gap down the left hand side of the hatch under the stairway will be blocked one I've added a post behind it. TFL Badder
  3. Thank you. Now you see what I meant about the rebel figures?
  4. I love version 2. All aspects are great - the figures, vehicle, building, the rubbish! What more can I say?!👍👍
  5. I agree, both dios are great. Cheers
  6. Just found this one. It's all rather excellent -- and provides plenty food for thought.
  7. Hah, we're posting almost simultaneously. I might end up using them if I do go ahead with a "modern" diorama. Meanwhile, I'll have a hunt for your previous example.
  8. You're welcome mate. Those two Bad Guys in the Masterbox set look pretty suitable as well. I don't usually look at anything beyond around 1950-ish, and I've got at least three new dioramas planned for this year, but crickey, your scenario hasn't half got me looking at modern subjects recently.
  9. I have used this set on my previous diorama. It wouldn't quite work, due to the posture and direction in which they are engaged.
  10. Fabulous Cadman. -thank you kindly. Those first figures look perfect. much appreciated.
  11. Yesterday
  12. IMPORTANT INFORMATION! Having removed the window frames from their sprues I test fitted them in the window apertures in the front and side walls. THEY DON'T FIT! This is down to me making a mistake during the primary construction of the building. Or rather, it is down to me for reasonably assuming that the window apertures in the outer and inner pieces should be glued together when the two halves of the walls are glued together. It turns out that they shouldn't be glued together at the primary stage, rather be left to bend and flex when the window frames are inserted. When pushed in from the rear, the sides of the inner window apertures will flex and allow the window frames to be pushed up tight against the rear of the outer apertures' side walls. THEN glue (thin CA) can be used to fix everything together. So, I've had to break the bonds at the joins between inner and outer window apertures. Luckily I used CA to fix them so careful prodding and flexing broke them apart in most cases. Unfortunately I had added tabs to the inners which made breaking some of the bonds harder than it might have been. Looking back now, perhaps the better option would be to sand down the side walls of the inner apertures by the thickness of the window frames, then sandwich the window frames between the inner and outer forms when the walls are glued together. Of course, the instruction sheet doesn't allude to any of this. I will cut and paste this post to the beginning of this section on the 'Ardennes Building', for those who follow this thread in the future. TFL Badder
  13. These two figures on the left of the boxart might work as well; Available from Hannants on this link; https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/MB3576
  14. Today I have finished off the drainpipe, offering it up to the building so as to ensure the correct alignment of the angled section at the top, and the 'spout' at the bottom.. The drainpipe has the same bracket 'arms' as the guttering, but this time their spacing is not critical and they can be glued directly into small holes which I will drill into the side wall. The guttering and drainpipe won't be fitted in place until the building is constructed, painted and weathered. I have tidied up the building a bit more: filling in the join between the front and left-hand side wall, and made a start on recarving the stonework pattern. AND MY KITTEN HAS JUST STOLEN A MOUTHFUL OF MY LASAGNE!!!!!! Moral: don't mix typing and eating your tea. HA! Not so keen on garlic are you Molly? Construction wise, I have finished the triple door assembly including the hinges, the bottom ones of which have to be squeezed into too small an area for my liking. But they are on and the doors fit nicely into the arch and should look quite good. I'm not sure yet whether to show them fully open, partly open, or closed. Next I'm going to make a start on the window and door frames. These are identical to those that came with the previous building. Hopefully they will fit this building without any need for adjustment! TFL Badder
  15. Thanks Rich, It would have been better if there were nothing to fix, but then I suppose fixing things improves one's skills. Rearguards, Badder
  16. I like the way you have "fixed" the miss alignment problems, looks good. Nice work with the wood beams.
  17. I thank your kind words. Cheers my friend
  18. The drainpipe would have been easy-peasy if it weren't for the fact that the two halves of the bottom 'spout' are riddled with flash and are distorted. The locating pin and hole are rendered useless. Cleaning the two halves up meant removing a lot of excess plastic. Unfortunately the two halves still didn't fit together very well and the exit hole turned out to be more of a diamond shape than an oval. Okay I could have spent a bit of time fixing everything, but then I had a spare top end which could be chopped in half and substituted instead. Yes, there's a lot of flash on those parts too, but otherwise they are much better than the original parts. For those 'beginners' who don't know what flash is, here's a great example, courtesy of MiniArt's Quality Control Department. A simple slice half way along the tubing will produce a much nicer 'spout' than the original parts. TFL Badder
  19. Hi tiking, That really is one wonderful diorama; the more I look the more I appreciate the extraordinary detail.... For additional figures, how about this set on the roof? And perhaps this guy on the right-hand-end of the balcony, oblivious to the presence of the good guys at street level? Fields of Glory have them in stock at a reasonable price, and these two links ought to work. http://www.fieldsofglorymodels.co.uk/135-scale-ambush---rpg-attack-2-figures-7495-p.asp http://www.fieldsofglorymodels.co.uk/taliban-insurgent-with-ak47--135-scale-7494-p.asp
  20. Thanks very much guys. This one took around three years to put together by the time I ordered all the figures from the UK, got them painted and built the groundwork. Time well spent, I reckon.... Cheers H
  21. Last week
  22. wow! This is going to look amazing. The fine detail is just awesome!
  23. That looks quite nice, @Badder! It looks realistic and could absolutely be a part of the house and the actual roof! 8-)
  24. Great work as always Carius. Nice choice of AFV and great figures too. Rearguards, Badder
  25. Many thanks Beefy Cheers
  26. After a lot of messing about with the guttering, trying to figure out how to fix it to the eaves, I finally came to a decision. And that was to remove all of the bracket arms. They just aren't spaced correctly, and don't fit to anything. I was going to have to find some other way. So today I went to my LHS and bought a length of stick. I cut the stick to length, offered it up to the eaves and marked the positions of the exposed rafters on it. I then cut slots into the stick which accepted those rafters. I didn't bother being to precise as they won't be visible one the guttering is fixed in place. The rear edge of the guttering will be glued directly to the length of stick whilst butting up against the underside of the exposed rafter ends. Everything looks a bit dusty and messy here. And for some reason the edge of the roof looks bent, but I can assure you it isn't. I can only assume it's been distorted by the extreme closeness of the camera. TFL Badder
  27. Further to the two recent posts on the individual buildings, I've now put together this small diorama as a photo-base for AFVs
  28. Great job on this little scene Beefy
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