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- Past hour
so today as you can see i've spent a little time on the thing. Many details still have to be fixed, but i've done the overall paint job. i've sprayed the green over the base and than chipped it as i said. the damage wants to show a right wing fuel tank that has been opened by a burst of guns than the plane catched fire ( as zero used to do not having sealing tanks ) and went down. there are some round holes also on the right side of the fuselage. I've also added many metal skids to the nose underside in order to show it had slide over the ground. i've also glued the gear and a piece of its cover to the puddle surface in order to make it look like it's stickin out of it. once all the details are in place on the plane and once i've finished applying and coloring the ground base, i'm going to stick the plane to the ground in its final position and than start to blend in it with the surrounding, that means adding lot of ground dirt over it and around it,  i've updated the previous picture cause i've also given a hand of paint to the dirt now, so the diorama basically start to have a more natural feelings and give more an idea of the final result i aim to end up with. So, in the end, the coffee experiment doesn't look that bad afterall, i just have to wait and see if it degrades in the next days.
Got the HAS set up the other day, mainly to include the Bedford tanker in some shots & maybe the garage too. Think the tanker looks quite at home. By the way the Phantom has had a nose job. I realised that I had a spare nose cone & had never glued the last (black) one on, so I swapped it over for a grey nose cone. Can now swap between them! Quite happy with the Phantoms at the moment. Trouble is thinking what to pose them with - Lightning / Tornado / Hawk / Harrier? I think a Tonka F3 may be needed. The Jag scheme is to late really
i'm actually pondering the idea of taking the tail section away from the diorama and filling that space with a japanese pilot folding back his parachute, with part of the parachute leaning on the right wing, it would make the scene less packed and more dynamic
on a positive note: what i tought was a long and boring process, wich is producing the aileron and flaps skeleton, wich i had planned to do with plasticard, was in fact a fun and fast process that i was able to do with my cheap Dremel drill wannabe, i tought that plastic wasn't able to sustain such damage holding togheter but i was wrong. So here a couple of pictures of the skeetoned plane. I also removed a panel in front of the cockpit, maybe i'm gonna redo it with plasticard, leave it hanging and have some wires come out of it. I think the overall damage i'm planning to do is almost all there. The plane should be a plane that has crashed from one or two days, not a relic remaining in the jungle for decades, therefore that should just represent battle/crashlanding damage, not rotting away damage. please keep in mind i'm gonna repaint part of it and add the bird cage ( and create a frame from the tail with plasticard ). than i'll blend it in with sprayed ground on the wings and the fuselage. i've also added to the picture a piece of cutten away landing gear popping out from the puddle just to give the idea of how it could look. i think there's a chance in the end something good may come out of this. It may definitely be a good idea to give a new purpose to some old model you've there that you're getting bored with.
The new stonework has been treated with dark washes and a dusting with powders before moss was applied. The green really doesn't show up well in the light of low energy lightbulbs, but I can assure you it IS there! TFL Badder.
Today I got ready to install the central support structure. I had to put the brakes on for this install. The end panels of the support are quite stiff and ridged. The size of the panels and the compact nature makes the end panels very solid. However when I got ready to work with the long sides, I discovered that the panels tended to bend quite a bit... I can't be having a bendy panel. The resin would crack off and things would fall apart. I had to think of a stiffener that didn't weigh to much. A 3/16 pine board. Four new support sides ready for install as soon as the epoxie dries. I'll be back with the install of the central support structure. Later All.
the puddle is simply a sheet of transparent plastic cut the size of the puddle, than sanded to make it more opaque and than painted on the underside with an uneven oil color. in the picture is just dry fitted there, once the plane is finished i plan to glue it down and add some putty around it with some more coffee over it in order to blend it in the proper way, with maybe have a branch sticking out of it to make it look less flat or a piece of the carriage, or something like that i'll also give it a try at your suggestion you give me for painting the dirt, as i said it's the first time for me so this is 100% laboratory stuff
The rust looks good. I'm not a coffee drinker so I have no idea whether that puddle is a Latte or a whatever, but there's a high chance it's going to evaporate or soak away. So how ARE you going to make the puddle? I have to say it does look very effective as it is. A tip for you... rather than trying to paint what is essentially an anhydrous substance (that'll be the coffee) try giving it several coats of gloss varnish. Then make up a couple of washes - say a sandy wash and a black wash and apply them around, sometimes kept separate, sometimes running into each other. Then give a coat of matt varnish. Rearguards, Badder
I added a bit more stonework to the walls where they join and did a bit more carving before applying a base coat. I also started painting the rubber matting which will become a tiled floor. I'm going for a worn and dirty terracotta colour. I used Humbrol red/brown as a base coat and gave it a patchy brushing over with MIG 'brick dust' pigment. I then ran a damp brush over some of the 'tiles' taking them back to the black rubber. This will receive a satin coat and some pin washes. TFL Badder
well, i'm not giving it the attention it should i admit it. I've added a second layer of coffe over the first one. It's been more than a week now: good news, no mould appeared, no smell coming from it. Bad news: some part have different color cause i've tried to apply some paint and we may have a problem there cause it tends to soak in the paint instead of being coated by it. It may not work or it may require more paint than usual, i'll keep on with the experiment. i've painted parts of the plane in aluminium, than overcoated with red primer, than scratched the primer. I now plan to paint green over that, and than scratch the green in order to show the primer/aluminium under it here and there.. On the right wing i'll leave a great chunck of it red in order to simulate a fuel tank catching fire. I've added some structure in the right wing i still have to build the right aileron frame and the tail structure. i'm waiting for a couple of bags of grass to arrive, have no clue where they are, than the final idea is to put some heavy grass in front of the plane, some stomped grass in the back to give the idea it has slided over it, and to leave the ground visible on the skid mark. than add maybe a shrub in front of the right wing in order to fill the scene. i modeled the ground in order to give me the option to add a little puddle around the left wing leaving it partially submerged just to make it all more dramatic. and also a test with the possible puddle effect
Thank Stix, its my first plaster build since I was a kid, when I made buildings from using the sets you molded yourself. As well as two sections of garden wall, I've got a bonus rubble set too. Defiantly like Christmas as my zimmermit and grill set also was there to, I think we get excited as its a little different. I had the same excitement when I built, the BR 86 as it was somthing I'd not done before. In regards to the damage I will probably do it for all shell/ bullet holes, as until the tanks turned the corner the village had not been exposed to the 2 way firing range of WW2. Thanks Bodmin, a picture definitely paints a 1,000 words, it gives me a reference and also allows those passing through to see what I'm trying to build. Also you can't beat a bit of Band of Brothers.
Hey Guys, A little more work done today. I have smooth sanded the base plate. And then primered and painted. I also primered and painted the lattice fence that goes around the perimeter of the base plate. I installed a little curb so that the central support structure has a "foot" for the casting to rest against. The primer is a medium grey. The paint is a hammered silver color. The finished lattice fence... That's it for now. Next up is securing the inner support structure. Be back shortly...
- Last week
I bet it was like Christmas opening up that box Ozzy! I don't know what it is about kit buildings but when mine arrived they got me more excited than any of the AFVs I've purchased. I think possibly it's because I know I can take mouldings from them and make LOTS of other buildings from them on the cheap?ot I've 'quoted' the pic above though because if I were you I'd get rid of those two strikes under the window. They weren't caused by small arms fire so I reckon the rounds would have gone straight through the wall, or would have knocked it down. A skim with Polyfilla or some putty and a bit of carving with a scalpel and no one would ever know they'd been there. Otherwise, the kit looks excellent. Rearguards, Badder
Today I continued work on the join between the side wall and the new gable wall, shaping and thinning down and a section of spare plaster wall to fit over it. I had to shave about 4mm off the back of the 'patch' so that it would sit flush with the stonework either side. After test fitting I decided to fix the patch in place and then decided I may as well fix side wall and gable wall together as well whilst I was at it. It was important that everything should be square and true so I placed both walls on graph paper and used the grid lines to position them precisely. I also used a set square to ensure that the walls were both standing perfectly upright. When I was happy with that I dribbled CA into the join and let some run down onto the graph paper. Capillary action drew CA underneath the join, and along the undersides of the walls. So the two walls are now joined perfectly and are sitting pretty on a piece of A4 graph paper. I can now use the graph paper 'base' as a guide for future work. (and of course, it can be removed easily in the future) Below, foreground... a piece of rubber lining from the dashboard of a vehicle. It has a diamond pattern on it and will be perfect as a tiled scullery floor. Below, bottom centre.... the 'patch' countersunk into the side wall and overlapping the join with the gable wall. Oh and I added more moss everywhere. TFL Badder
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