In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too. If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong. This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software. We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held. We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible. Spite. Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".
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I had hoped to show one of the windows with the shutters open. I had the window frames, the bits that held the actual glazing, but not the outer frame. And then I remembered that I have another MiniArt building in my stash (Polish Town House) and I was sure it would use the same frame/windows, and possibly have some spares. Although it did have the exact same windows, it didn't have any spares. No matter, I thought, one of the four windows was half blown out, and the frame had to be cut in half. So, I could actually make do without it and use it for THIS building instead. So I removed the frame and test fitted it. It didn't fit. Again, this was due to shrinkage of the plaster cast. I could have shaved off the sides of the window aperture so as to get it to fit, but then I realised that the shutters would then be too narrow, and wouldn't meet in the middle. Scrub the idea of showing one window with the shutters open then. Never mind, the spare window from the Polish Town House kit can now be used for the rear ground floor. Here are the shitters dry-fitted and closed then, but be aware that one has yet to be given a blue coat. Meanwhile, I've painted up and have dry-fitted a partially open window for the end wall. The join down the middle of the wall still shows up in this photo, but it will be disguised by more moss/ivy. The window surround requires some more treatment. I now have the problem of the opposite window... one for which I have no frames at all. TFL Badder
- Last week
stevej60 replied to PlaStix's topic in Ready For Inspection - DioramasThat's a cracking job Stix,love it!
Window surrounds painted to near completion and whole thing given a dusting with plaster powder. Blue not showing up so much in photo, maybe due to the dusting, but it's going to get more blue anyway. TFL Badder.
Thanks Ozzy. I've tidied up the stonework a bit more since painting it. (Pure white plaster is a bit blinding and hides some of the 'not so good bits') Oh, by 'diamond needle file' I meant those needle files that are impregnated with diamond dust. I got a pack from Hobbycraft. You get half a dozen in a pack, each with a different shaped cross-section. There's a choice of a pack of small files, or larger ones I have both. Rearguards, Badder
I didn't notice the Kermit resemblance the first time I watched it, that's an uncanny likeness. Thanks Stix, ive done a bit of wall papering the other night, my roof tiles have turned up so hopefully a bit of roofing over the weekend.
Cheers Stix It's an honour to have you along for the ride. Here's the wall with the brickwork carved: (I used a diamond needle file rather than a scalpel) ....and given a going over with dark earth weathering powder mixed with water: I've test fitted this section to the building (obviously) and it's quite a nice fit. Actually gluing it in place isn't going to be straight forward though, as I want to make it very very secure. Simply applying CA around the edges and slotting it in place won't do as there's not a huge amount of contact area in some places. So, I'm going to use my 'roll of paper soaked in CA technique'. But first though, I have to finish the windows. I had planned to cover them with shutters, getting around the issue of not actually having any kit window frames left. However, I have found a few bits and pieces which I may be able to adapt to make one window fully framed. So, maybe one window with the shutters closed, and one window with the shutters open? We shall see. TFL Badder
HI Cromwell, I haven't looked at the links supplied above, but I have watched quite a few others. Here's a few tips that you might find useful, if they aren't mentioned in the links. Firstly, you can't beat real wood for realism! I use coffee stirring sticks for things like floorboards, beams, rafters etc. Gluing several sticks together to make thicker beams is useful because you can score and split the sticks to make damaged, rotten, or snapped beams. And the best thing about coffee stirring sticks is that you can pick them up for free from most café, restaurants etc. or from the floor outside! I also buy balsa wood sticks and sheets from hobby shops. Balsa wood is light in weight and soft, but it is actually a hardwood. That means that the grain is very tight and so is more realistic in scale than say pine which is a softwood and has a more open grain. But I will also simulate wood using plastic, either in sheet form, or for beams. I generally score the grain into the wood using a very sharp scalpel. Then using a wood colour as a base coat, I wet and dry several times using a mix of darker and lighter colours over the top... the darker colours being washes, the lighter colours dry brushed. Watch the videos, practice you 'wood effects' and you'll find that it's actually quite easy, but a very satisfying and enjoyable part of model-making. Good luck, Rearguards, Badder
I finished off the 2 jacks / stands and added a third of a different type. So time to set up the diorama. First up with a Dutch F-16 I have added wires going to the light fittings, but still need to add the little bits like a fire hose & alarm call points Now the Jags are retired at Cosford I though I would see how one would look inside for engineering training
GazB replied to PlaStix's topic in Ready For Inspection - DioramasGreat work! ^-^ Gaz
With the front half of the building having progressed to a satisfactory level, I'm now concentrating on the rear wall.... something I have been putting off because to be honest I wasn't happy with the upper section. It doesn't show up in the photographs previously posted, but the right hand section is a bit distorted between the window aperture and the corner stones. There's a distinct dip in the stonework and this affects the right top corner of the window surround as well. So, I've skimmed over the 'dippy' stonework and have built up the top right corner of the window surround as shown below. Whilst the 'skim' might look a bit scrappy, I deliberately made it deeper than required so the blemishes are not a problem and can be sanded out. Now I just have to re-carve the stonework and the brickwork. TFL Badder
Plenty of tuturials on Youtube..........choose your preference............heres a few to be going on with :- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmYIUNZPs3s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IPvf3mpr-s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzTh04AnwY4 Good luck with your search..................
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