Zorglub

Hello, I need some advice about this printer. I currently have an Anycubic Mono 4K ( bought +2 years ago ) which I'm very happy with, and I'd like to know if it's worth upgrading to the Mars 4 Ultra? The Anycubic Mono 4K has a resolution of 35µ compared with 18µ for the Mars 4. Is it really worth it to get a Mars 4: would the difference in resolution really be noticeable? I'm trying to design parts for my 1/72 kits. For exemple, here's what I've just finished, a Phantom II F4-F slotted wing for a Fine Molds F4 I don't print as often as I'd like, in fact knowing that the screen was advertised for around 2000h of life, I try to optimize my printing and avoid printing all the time to “see” “test”. Another question: the ACF film. I've read a lot of people urging me to change it for nFep. They reproach ACF for having a less sharp and smoother rendering, which would reduce the impact of sharpness expected with 18µ. Another complaint is that ACF gives stripes sometimes on prints, and that its durability is questionable compared with nFep or FeP. Is it a good idea to replace ACF film directly with Nfep, as many people on the Internet seem to recommend? Last question: The Mars 5 currently being released (which doesn't really interest me) seems to offer the possibility of RERF testing. Does the Mars 4 Ultra have the ability to run this REF test (with a firmware upgrade or something else?) ? A lot of questions, sorry, Please, all advices are welcome. Thank you Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Bienvenue à toi. Welcome !

Why not try a search on air planes dedicated sites ? I don't know if you'll find all the aircraft you might be interested in. We'll just have to see if typing in 1/48 with the model on the net will give you any leads to follow. May be an An-26 https://www.scalemates.com/kits/amodel-72118-antonov-an-26--137162/timeline

Really beautiful work. I wish I could make something as beautiful and well done. It is magnificent! And I like it too, with its corrugated metal and unmistakable look.

Interesting, but I don't quite understand the problem with the color of the seats? Is the color itself to blame, or the paint itself (appearance, adhesion, etc.)? I'd approach it differently: ( don't let the Ferrari specialists blame me ) It seems to me that a Ferrari customer has a choice of colors, so why not say that it's an ordered color? Even if that particular color isn't in the "catalog". Then, perhaps you could try to create your own shade with a mix of paints? Or with a tinted semi-mat varnish? Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

A real beauty. Amazing job! This big cat looks really ready to go on a mission. When will it take off?

If it's too dark to print, then you can try to "cheat" by lightening the base image with image processing software such as "the Gimp" ( free ), "Xn convert"( free ), "Photoshop" or any other image editing software. That way you'll get the right result on your print. I often modify the parameters of my image in this way ( with the Gimp ) to end up with what I want on my printed decal sheet.

I've a Canon IP, but Try to replace "plain" with high-resolution paper or photo paper: i think this should work.

Oh thank you for sharing! So many ideas, I skimmed a bit of his channel and saw some great ideas. Interesting and informative. Thanks again for this discovery.

Don't worry, Tamiya paints are very good, easy to use and easy to thin. And Tamiya paints are also quite easy to use for the airbrush. However, Vallejo thinner is not compatible with Tamiya paints. You can thin Tamiya with the Tamiya thinner, of course, but also with alcohol if you want, no worries.

My top 3 The Sukhoi 27 ( the whole family except the ugly Su-34 ) The Phantom II ( long nose ) The Rafale

Thank you for the link . I don't build armor but i like to learn tips for modelling: this build is really a good lesson to me.

+1 I completely agree with that! I've had an airbrush for a few years and haven't had the opportunity to use it as often as I'd like to get a good level. My 1st airbrush was a Badger, then I got a Chinese gravity airbrush (similar to yours) that I still have, and now I use a Procon Boy PS270. Having said that: I get decent results and improve every time I paint. I mainly use Gunze and Tamiya paints: easy to use ( really ), dilute and work with. I had the opportunity to test the AK 3d generation: I was really surprised by the problems of use compared to Tamiya or Gunze... I had to try a lot of ways of diluting, type of diluent or percentage, to find the dilution that suits me and get what I wanted out of it. If I had a choice between AK 3d gen and Mr Hobby/Gunze Tamya: AK 3d wouldn't be my first choice. I'm not rejecting this brand, but now I'm approaching it with more caution. If you really want to give airbrushes a try: test them with paints that are easier to use (at least in my eyes), I'm sure you won't be disappointed then (and what's more, they'll be easier to clean).

What a job! An absolutely magnificent result. ! It's astonishingly realistic: I can't get enough of following every step of the process.

Superb. It really is. This work is a fine tribute to this ever-beautiful machine. A real feast for the eyes (and a dream to be able to make something this good).