Jump to content

Stickframe

Members
  • Posts

    421
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Stickframe

  • Birthday 04/23/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern California

Recent Profile Visitors

1,800 profile views

Stickframe's Achievements

Established Member

Established Member (3/9)

1.2k

Reputation

  1. Hello, welcome and good luck! I have the 1/24 version, so will be interested in seeing how yours comes together. I don't know of threads for this, but there are several interesting threads of highly detailed builds of various other race cars. You might need to do some searching - including many in 1/20 scale which might be generally helpful to review. Looking forward to seeing your progress Cheers Nick
  2. Hi Ron, yes, understand and am eager to see your progress. I misunderstood your comment about the part (shock tower) - that is, do you need to relocate it or heavily modify it? Sounds like the latter. I’m in the middle of something similar as part of a conversion of a Toyota Land Cruiser from the enclosed body to a pickup, with scratchbuilt four link front and rear suspension. I’m about half way through the suspension, so your steps are interesting to see. Thanks for clarification cheers Nick
  3. Hi gents - thanks! Yes, those tires are pretty hefty - they're 38" (96 cm) tall! so well suited for some heavy duty rock crawling As noted above, getting the shock towers and rear end set up to accommodate them is proving challenging, tho they are the same size as those used on the '41 Chevy. Seems there are just enough differences between the frames and bodies that new challenges are emerging - for now, working on the rear four link set up and keeping the axle on the correct X and Y axis - then on to the shock towers.....and ride height. Thanks for having a look Nick
  4. HI Ron, I am a bit confused by what you are saying above - is the shock mount spatially in the wrong location, or, are you speaking in term of being in need of modifications to allow you to do what you want them to? As I was curious, I looked up the instructions and found this: I can see how it will not be easy to fit your solution (which I like) into the shock tower - you'll need two extra hands! But, I'm confident you will get it sorted! Looking forward to seeing your next update Cheers Nick
  5. Hats off to you Andy - very nice work! And, the victory of all sitting flat and square - congratulations Cheers Nick
  6. Hi Jeroen, You have made remarkable progress - and all of the highest quality! And, in short order - looking good Cheers Nick
  7. Wow Ron! You are taking this to the next level indeed! That tiny u-joint looks great - I did as you suggested, and looked them up. I found some that I could actually get in a timely manner (they were sold in bulk of 10, and were relatively inexpensive), but they are a bit too big for my FJ project (1/24), but the next project will be a 1/24 6x6 or 4x4 Peterbilt, and I'm looking forward to trying them out. How do the versions you are using attach to the shafts? The parts I found come preassembled and to attach them to the shaft, you need to install 2 tiny allen head lock pins - not looking forward to that. I am though looking forward to your next update! Cheers Nick
  8. Well guys, my progress for February was modest at best - real work took priority. But, last week some more parts arrived and I had sent out a deliverable for work, so back to the bench I went. Seems I put hours into this, and there's not all that much to show. I managed to make progress on the bed, but that went pretty quickly - the real time sink was on the front axle and suspension: My few weeks off conveniently allowed me to forget just what a handful this type of build is! As you can see, this is becoming a posable four link suspension, similar to what I made for the '41 Chevy. Some things worked better, while others - big headaches - like getting the steering to work - When I note "posable" I'm referring to the suspension being able to freely move up and down, and the steering to be adjusted. I've made practically no progress on the rear end, other than making it look more or less like a Dana 60 with a beefy truss - the rest still to be built..... Unlike this Chevy, this is intended to be a full on rock crawler, hence the front fenders removed, for now. I'll add something back. As to the stance, it will sit closer to level when I add the shocks - but not until the rear end is built. And the steering: \ There's a lot going on up here, and I seem to have forgotten the order in which construction should go! This time I did correctly clock the front axle, but I had a really hard time getting the steering to all fit - there's a tie rod, drag link and panhard/tracking arm all in front of the axle! That's a lot of moving parts - and the steering gear, drag link, and pitman arm...I must have built/torn down and rebuilt a half dozen times - I ran into clearance problems, limited axle travel, and steering bind! That said, now it all works as hoped - and the axle is still pretty close to being centered on X and Y axis! good! The next task will be making up some shock towers and fitting the generally operable (posable) shocks - the challenge with this will be the obvious - making a tower mount that is the correct height and centered on the axle - but also offset enough from the chassis to allow the fake shocks to move. I discovered the last time that if the shock towers are vertical to the chassis, the shocks bind! It's a challenge to get bolts and nuts into the tiny single and double clevis' that serve as mounts. You can just see above, the lower clevis' installed - of course, these are perilously close to the mounts for the upper four link connectors - I hope I have enough clearance! Particularly on the driver's (left) side - it was unusually difficult finding the center of the axle, as the diff is not centered, so there's an unequal width of the axle truss. This led to me using the "eyecrometer" more than I would like to locate the lower clevis mount. Should any of you decide to go for a project like this, I suggest you buy the appropriately sized nut driver - it helps more than you might guess to get nuts started! So, on we go - thanks for having a look Cheers Nick
  9. Well now you're just taunting us - lol - Yes, I'm looking forward to all of this! Am curious, for parts like control arms, will you retrofit kit parts with hardware or be making/fabricating new versions? In either case, I will be watching! Nick
  10. Hi Ron, Wow! What a great update. This looks like it’s sure to be an addictive build log (as yours always are!). I am going to look up those joints too. I recognize the Prime Miniatures parts, but not familiar with the eye bolt manufacturer - I’ll look them up too. Looking forward to your next update Cheers Nick
  11. Hello guys, Still moving with the FJ 45 - @keefr22, glad you checked this out! As for the engineering - yes - and it goes on. Some anticipated, some not at all - as you'll see below @Pete in Lincs Hi Pete, glad to hear you're on board with this conversion. The FJs are really remarkable, high quality rigs as is, and clearly NOT speed demons - not like a Jeep with a V8 - be it a traditional Jeep or a Cherokee- they have some get up and go! @JeroenS Hi Jeroen, thanks - yes, for better or worse, I'm currently stuck waiting for a couple of real work jobs to start up, so, have some time, but not unlimited time for the hobby. As awesome as on-site team meetings are.....well, model building is more fun! From the mundane and tedious to downright challenging - first up, making the grill look a bit better: Sorry about the tiny photo? - well - albeit tiny, maybe indicative of what I did, which you can barely see! but, you can see what I did by the tone of colors on the grill. The grill in the kit is a molded in grid pattern, which is fine - but, I wanted it to read better - so, out came the #72 drill and after about an hour, I drilled out the the spaces between the grid pattern. You can see on the left pic, the holes drilled in the upper and lower sections (which looks darker), and the stamped pattern in the middle section (which looks lighter) - and on the right picture, all drilled out! The following is not mundane, and challenging - converting the Toyota axle to a Dana 60, to match the rear: Lots going on here - converting the differential, getting the width correct, adding a truss, steering set up for a tie rod and drag link, alu shafts for the brakes and hubs, and - filing down some already small double clevis' to fit. The clevis' will receive the base for the strut/charged shocks. What is mercifully difficult to see is that despite my efforts, this axle was about 4mm too wide....perfect. So, I cut 2mm segments out on either side of the diff - and reattached the parts using various alu and styrene tube, to get a strong connection. Yes - the chassis. Not much left of the donor frame - it was cut, fill added, and cross members removed, resized and relocated, and engine mounts added. The engine - well, it's supposed to be a Chevy 350 - it's not tho - I wasn't about to buy a kit, or resin aftermarket engine for this, as the hood won't open, so a Ford SB V8 it is! with a random collection of parts from who knows what - and scratch built radiator, shroud, and styrene hoses. I only "needed" an engine because the fender wells on this will be open, so you need to see something (specifically, a V8) in there, particularly exhaust, and from the front, an oil pan. I couldn't find a set of headers to fit...so, kept a regular manifold, which ultimately was a good choice, as the exit slope allowed for some carefully bent alu tube to works its way toward the rear. It turns out K&S sells a small tubing bender - not fancy or expensive, but with some practice, a helpful tool to have! And - a New Process 205 transfer case and doubler! These transfer cases are pretty tough and have a distinctive look/shape - and by adding the "doubler" you can get further gear reduction. My doubler was part of an idler for a Bradley AFV - and you can see output shafts/bushings, from an MRAP. Next - the cab - and roll cage: No, this is not a "typical" roll bar. Turns out the Italeri kit requires the dash board to be mounted to the cab body, and not the interior. This is big problem because the steering wheel is attached to the dash. The problem you ask? the floor plan and roll bar needs to be installed squeezing between the body and steering wheel - this also prevents the installation of a dash height, horizontal roll bar brace.....so, a guy fit in what would fit - and we have this. Another challenge, well, I went ahead and added some inner door panels - which the kit does not include: You can barely see panels from the junkbox inside each door, and on the steering column the tilt housing. While you can't really see these features, you can clearly see the placement of the steering wheel and how it could and does interfere with installing the floor mounted roll cage - and a few dry dry fit test shots: All dry fit, but you can see what's going on - and nice view of the rear Dana 60 (which still needs a truss and clevis'). Both the front and rear are sitting a bit too high, but ride height will get adjusted as the suspension gets built. Like the 1941 Chevy, this will have front and rear four links. Maybe a better view, which looks better. More apparent is the ride height is a bit too high: So far so good - I was worried the transfer case might be hanging too low, but seeing it in place, it's fine. This will eventually receive a set of larger diameter tires, but will uses these (front) rims. Once I have a better idea of what the tires look like relative to the body, I'll make the bed. I might have run into a bit of a standstill, or will shortly as I've run out of the clevis' which are needed for the rear axle and mounting towers. In the meantime, well, what to do? maybe driveshafts and mounting studs for the four link brackets? I can to proceed to a certain point, then will have to stop, until I get the clevis'. I learned on the '41 Chevy, that as the suspension will be posable, the geometry needs to be relatively precise - if you clock the axle incorrectly, it will tilt up or down too much (pinion angle, front and rear), and won't work with the four links. To get the "clocking" correct the shocks need to be place - to keep the orientation of the axle correct - essentially for vertical control, while a panhard will provide horizontal control. OK gents, have a good day and thanks for having a look Cheers Nick
  12. HI Jeroen, it's remarkable how quickly you are doing this, while maintaining such high quality! very nice! Cheers Nick
  13. Hello model builders, @CrazyCrank - glad you like it - quite a fun project, both the models, and the photos. I'm currently waiting for a couple of real job projects to start up, which has allowed me more time to fool around with the hobby @nearsightedjohn - lucky you! I understand the four wheeling in Utah is great - several years ago a friend of mine took her essentially stock (modest lift/some bigger tires) Jeep Cherokee into Moab! She was/is pretty tough! made it back in one piece - I'd love to visit one day @Kitkent hi Chris, thanks very much! I know, clearly not F1 - lol @HOUSTON thanks very much for your positive words! I really appreciate them. As mentioned above, I currently have some time on my hands so have been able to push the builds and presentation a bit. It was fun building a base then searching for the "perfect" images for meshing together. Not quite as much fun as actually driving around in the rocks, but better than sitting home watching TV! Cheers Nick
  14. Jeroen, you are really making fast work of this build! I really like your idea for the flooring material - will give it a nice and custom look! Nick
  15. Well model builders, giving a go at converting an Italeri BJ44 to an FJ45 Land Cruiser: The FJ 45, on the left seems to be ubiquitous around the world, but less commonly seen in the US - they are considered something of a treasured find if you come across one of them. Italeri makes a 1/24 kit of the BJ 44, which is also commonly seen, but also, less so in the US. I like pickups, so am going to convert the BJ to an FJ. This will also include a complete rebuild of suspension, axles, engine swap and so on. First steps, comparing the two in a diagram: You can see the most obvious difference being one has a covered area in the back and the other (what I am building) is a pickup. An important feature of both tho, is the rear, wrap around corner windows - thereby eliminating the idea of "just" cutting off the unnecessary roof behind the cab, and instead, cutting off the roof over the cab, and cutting and reusing the rear portion of the roof and back doors: I've got to say, I use Tamyia tape for so many things in addition to masking - among them, setting guidelines for cutting! Embarrassed to say, keeping these cuts on the straight and narrow - more of a task than a guy expected - they're mostly straight lines along flat surfaces - maybe too much coffee that day! When all was said, puttied, sanded, and so on, the cab turned out fine - barely discernable splice! The Italeri kit doesn't have too many parts - at all. The floor pan, truck bed, bottom of the engine, and chassis are all molded in one piece - not what I'm looking for. Rather than fret, a quick trip to the junkbox, and a replacement frame was found. Feeling full of confidence, I cut apart the cab floor, filled some gaps, added the rear facing corner edges (cut from the rear of the kit provided part), added a firewall, and thought we're good to go! As part of my ongoing effort to create my own heavy duty Dana 60 axles, back to the junk box I went - finding idlers from a Bradley and various bits to make up the diff cap, and pinion, then evergreen and alu tube inserts. Had a nearly built engine on hand, which is fine - as the hood won't be openable, but you will be able to see the side of the block and headers between the chassis and fenders, so I need something, and a small block Chevy is a fairly common conversion - funny bit of info, the small block Chevy is lighter than the Toyota I6 - how about that? The Toyota engine BTW is a great runner - I just like adding the V8 Then began trying to get the body to sit correctly on my donor chassis. Problem number one is that the area of the chassis beneath the cab isn't flat - and the base of the cab is - easy enough to fix, but would require some thought - then, I noticed - the FJ and BJ trucks share a similar body mound, below the center of the grill - note the pic in the upper right with the red circle - and that brutal gap..... How would that get resolved??? Well - a different donor chassis was selected, and a piece of the Italeri part was cut up and modified: As you can see in the left, this was not a pretty job. The Italeri kit part (uni chassis/floor pan) was pretty chunky and not at all realistic. I cut everything in front of the floor pan off, and happily, kept the remnant part handy. I cut the cast in-place, bottom of a motor, out and separated what looks like a chassis from the "flat" front part. Then went about splicing the cut up Italeri part to the other chassis. I didn't take pics of all of this - the process included adding several segments of thick fill material to make what looked like a really big, blocky chassis. Once the glue was set up, went back and cut off all the blocky parts and began filing, shaping, and sanding until it looked something more like a credible chassis. Unhappily, the Italeri kit - does not include a transfer case! annoying - instead, the kit would have you insert the drive shafts into opposing ends of a skid plate. The kit isn't bad at all, but the level of detail/parts count, might suggest it's aimed at newer model builders, which is great - wish I'd have found this years ago! But now, well, I want to build in more detail. So, I'm going to make up a NP 208 or 205 transfer case facsimile to suit my project, will add a doubler, and attach it all to the transmission. I will eventually make a skid plate below the transfer case, but mine will be made from thick styrene rod to represent steel tubing, not adapting the kit part. The next tasks will include narrowing the rear part of the chassis, and making the front axle. From there will being locating and marking the axle centerlines relative to the chassis and fender openings. This will ride on front and rear four link suspension so we have a long way to go. Thanks for having a look, and on we go - Cheers Nick
×
×
  • Create New...