Anders E

I think that the sanding of the aileron and the trailing edge filler makes a big difference. I have started detailing the cockpit with the line for the defroster and the hydraulic lines to the hydraulic oil tank. The holes for part 48, 70 that sit on the upper part of the landing gear are too small. It is easy to fix when they are not detached. Anders E

It looks good. are you planning to participate in the 08-Open with it? Anders E

It should be thinner and sharper. I sanded the leading edge of the wing. I'm halfway here, I'm going to sand some more. At the same time, I sand off all the rivets and sand quite a lot on the underside to make the wing thinner. The back edge will then automatically become sharper. Sanding the leading edge makes a difference for the better but trying to make the wing thinner was a waste of time. I used a scriber from Bare-metal and a needle to restore some of the panel lines. The height of the air intake is too high. I glued it flush with the top of the wing and sanded down the excess on the underside. Anders E

Thanks, I absolutely think you should add it to your collection. It's a nice kit and if you want you can make the changes I've made. It has only taken a few hours to adjust the shape of the body and the wing. Now the right side is finished, the plastic is thick but I dare not to sand more. I know it can be risky to use airplanes that are in museums as references. A lot may have happened to them after they were active. Sometimes they are assembled from parts from several aircraft. But it's always fun to look at them and often you can talk to those who flew and did the maintenance of them. My wife might be of a different opinion how fun it is to look at all the airplanes museum! Here are some pictures of the wing tip, the top and bottom should be flat on the model it is rounded. The aileron is too big. It's easy to make it look better. I sanded the aileron and made the wing tip flat on the top and bottom. On this picture the right side is done, both the trailing edge filler and the wing. Anders E

The instrument decals in the kit are good but I used decals from Airscale. I painted the cockpit with MrPaint NatoBlack and darkgrey. I did some drybrushing to. Be aware that the instruction for the air intakes does not match how it should be. I sanding the joint between the winghalfes smoth before gluing them together. I drilled the little air intake deeper. At F10 in Ängelholm they have a yearly very well organised model show. They also have a very interesting museum. There I took this picture of the air intake. They have not so many cars like Svedino but the museum is very close to the Koenigsegg factory. When you have bought your multimilliondollar car you can take a trip to Svedino. Its only 80km between. (Watch out for the speed cameras!) I wasn't aware of the big discussion about the kit in the Rumourmonger forum. I think you can build a good looking Vampire straight from the box but if you want to change anything you can start with the trailing edge filler. I participated in a model exhibition at Gardermoen in Norway. The show is in their aviation museum, it is also a very interesting museum. There they have a Vampire single seater. It is originally a Swedish one that they have repainted in Norwegian colors. There I took this picture. And here are pictures from Svedino and F10. Here I have started sanding on the right side, it will probably be quite easy to make it look better. Anders E

Welcome, the construction will probably take a while. It looks like there are as many parts to the open nose section as there are to the rest of the model. That was well done by you. It is not one of the easiest models to build. I think it is sometimes good to build one of the older models, just to remind you how amazingly good most of the new models are. Pilot Replicas Vampire is no exception this far into the build. The detailing in the cockpit is good, I will add some details. The cockpit is ready for painting. On IPMS Stockholm homepage it is good pictures of a cockpit in a Swedish trainer J 28C at Svedinos car and flight museum. https://www.ipmsstockholm.se/home/j-28c-vampire-trainer-cockpit/ If you are in the vicinity of Ugglarp in Sweden and have the slightest interest in cars, airplanes or both, the museum is absolutely worth a visit. The photos of the cockpit are from this aircraft. It flew between 1955-1968 on F5 Ljungbyhed. This airplane is a J 28 C2. This is what it looks like behind the seats. Anders E

Last year the Västerås Aviation Museum had an air show. There were many fine aircraft on display, but the coolest display was the one with a Vampire. The pilot Janne Andersson had a spectacular display with his vampire. It is a Swiss aircraft but it is painted like a Swedish one. Interesting to see when it started and the sound was amazing! And now you can build it as a model because Pilot Replica has made it in 1/48. I've built a PR model before, their J21 and that is a nice model. I have bought the open nose section for the model. It is packed exemplary. Sometimes all the parts are in one bag. I started with the cockpit. The holes for the frame behind the seats are little too small. It is clearly marked where to remove the plastic if you are going to use the open nose section. The fit of all parts is very good and the details of the 3D printed parts are very fine. After just a few hours it looked like this. Anders E

Thank,s all, nice that you like my little diorama. It was a very fun build. Anders E

Thanks, its a nice little kit of a unusal aircraft. And here's another little diorama. The aircraft is painted with Mr Paint. The figure is from Plusmodel. As usual with figures from Japan, he is holding a Samurai sword, I removed that. Anders E

I didn't use the dashboard from the kit I used decals from airscale instead. The seat and safetybelts are made of photoetch. And now its ready for painting. Anders E

I bought Brengun's model of the OHKA M 22 many years ago and thought it was time to build it. There are not many plastic parts. I bought photoetch and painting masks for the model. I use the photoetch for the air intakes. I won't detail the cockpit so much as the hood is closed and quite thick. I polish up the surface of the wings as it is quite uneven. I use some of the photoetch back in the cockpit. Anders E

Thanks, I think that working with oils is an easy way to get a good wooden effect. Thanks, the figures from Aviattic is very good. Anders E

Thanks Keith, now the model is ready. It's been a very fun build. The figures is from Aviattic. Anders E

Thanks, I really like this kit. And now its nearly finished. The wheels can be turned, but I glued them. The propeller is painted with MrPaint wood colors with a layer of translucent yellow. The decal was not included in the kit, I took it from a Wingnut model. Anders E

I used the machine guns from the kit. Heated the photoetch and shaped it with a 3mm drill. First against an eraser and finally an aluminum plate. I cut tubes from Albion Alloy and glued elastic thread with superglue. Puts in the tube into the fuselage and pulls the thread and glues it to the rudder with superglue, cuts the thread with a sharp knife. Two wires in front of the cockpit goes up to the ailerons. I made a bracket for the wires in the upper wing. Anders E