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    UK, having left Flory land...

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  1. Below is the entirety of my stash, so this is quite easy - The 10 I'd keep - 1/35 Academy UH-1C with resin/brass M134 Barrels + eduard pe weapons set 1/48 Italeri MH-60K Blackhawk SOA + Werners Wings 160th SOAR decals + Armycast M143's 1/48 Italeri MH-60G Pavehawk - + Werners Wings "Pedro" decals 1/72 Airfix HH-53C Super Jolly Green Giant + decals for Knife 21 1/72 Revell HH-3E 1/144 GWH Avro Vulcan + 2 sets of decals (camo and anti-flash white). 1/72 Italeri A-10A Warthog + master brass gun barrel + paint masks 1/72 Fujimi F-86 Sabre 1/72 Dragon/Cyberhobby Sea King 1/32 Matchbox Porsche 917/10 + L&M decals What I'd get rid of (the first 4 were the only difficult chioces) - 1/48 Airfix Spitfire (2019/2020 release) 1/72 Dragon/Cyberhobby GLoster Meteor F.3 1/72 Academy A-10A Warthog 1/72 Hobbyboss Corsair II 1/72 Misterkit Javelin + airfix firestreak missiles 1/72 KP MiG-23 1/32 Revell OH-6A Cayuse 1/48 Revell Huey + resin + parts for weapons I have the following works in progress for which I'd also keep the kits for, if allowed... 1/35 Meng Mark V Male tank 1/350 AMT Klingon Bird of Prey - in it's box 1/72 X-Wing + 1/72 TIE + display bases + coastal kits display board x2 1/72 Blue Angels F18 - in it's box I also have 2x 1/72 Hasegawa weapons sets do they count as a kit? And I have the following in a "draw of doom", badly built/failed idea models that I haven't gotten around to chucking or robbing parts from yet, so I guess they'd get chucked in this exercise - 1/72 Academy F-14A 1/72 Eduard FW190A-5 1/48 Sea King x2 1/48 Revell Huey 1/72 Revell HH-3E
  2. As a former Flory forum member take this as gospel - 1. yes 2. probably best after 3. use it on dark colours for very light panel lining. I mixed it 50/50 with dark dirt for a Pacific Theatre weathered look to my 1/48 F4u-1d Corsair. Go watch some of his videos on youtube for further info/advice.
  3. RobL

    Aircraft kit values

    I wouldn't use ebay as a yardstick, not unless you're comparing prices of brand new kits sold by reputable sellers, Jadlam, ModelHobbies etc. A lot of ebayers (read most) seem to have an over inflated opinion of what the kits they sell are worth, I get the feeling they feel their "investment" owes them a house or two... Of course if you're selling I guess that's not really a problem, because as they say, there's one born every minute...
  4. Unfortunately, when not between jobs as I am currently, I'm an office worker (general office bod and former BlackBerry 1st line helpdesk person), and office workers don't use machines with Linux (in my experience), so I have a need to keep up with Windows versions, besides gaming. I was volunteering at an organisation that helps vulnerable people, until the pandemic response hit last March, and they were using Windows 10, first time I had used it, luckily it's so similar to Windows 7 I managed OK. I think for the next iteration upgrade, as late as possible, I'll have to find some magic beans to pay for a new PC (my current one I've upgraded to Win 10 is 6 years old, and wasn't "top end" to start with)... I feel a similar pressure with video conferencing, never done it until recently, don't wish to do it really, and I don't have a webcam, but I was forced by the "programme" I've been referred to by the Job Centre to attend a video call last week. Had to use my smartphone, for what can loosely be called a presentation that is best viewed on a desktop PC's monitor!
  5. Yeah thanks guys. Memory is my next thing to test/diagnose. Don't have the money to buy new RAM though. Not at this precise moment at least. And if it is the culprit I'll just go back to Windows 7 as it exhibits no issues at the moment (or didn't before I upgraded and dual booted with Windows 10). It's running Red Dead Redemption 2 alright though, at least for the brief 15 minutes I've just played it, and if anything RDR2 shouldn't even be able to be run on my PC. Although MSI Afterburner Riva Statistics wasn't displaying in-game, despite showing up during the game's startup. And it's a fresh new version of MSI Afterburner I installed last night. The BSOD's I've been getting are KMODE exception not handled and attempt at switch from DPC, both of which t'interwebz seem to think could also be driver related (but then the internet can't seem to agree on any diagnosis for these BSODs, no change there then), so I've installed the Windows 10 drivers for my Asus motherboard (a Z97P), something which I hadn't yet done. So I'll see how it goes. Haven't had a BSOD whilst using the computer this past couple of hours though (seems to happen the most when uninstalling an application/driver package that was installed in Windows 7)... I've installed/upgraded OS's on several computers over the past 15 years though and never known such a pita install/upgrade!
  6. Unfortunately an upgrade is the only way I could go, as I don't have, and may not be able to get, installers for some of the stuff I have installed, and some of of the applications I have may have installers that just don't work in Windows 10. That may or may not be an issue, but I find it's always the case that you think that, then you need something and can't get hold of it! Anyway I'm limping on. I have Windows 7 to go back to if I keep encountering BSODs regularly in Windows 10 to the point where it interrupts gaming/general use of applications. If I could be bothered doing a clean install and installing everything again (what I can at least) I would, but reports across web media indicated that an upgrade from Windows 7 should work fine...
  7. So, among other things I'm a video gamer. I've noted that there is an increasing push by developers to require gamers to have Windows 10 to play the latest game. I've been running Windows 7 just fine until now, all the games I play at the moment work, however as Microsoft offer a free upgrade I decided this weekend just gone to take the plunge and upgrade to Windows 10. So late on Saturday I cloned my Windows 7 drive to an exactly the same SSD which I had earlier moved stuff off and formatted (because I cannot at the moment buy a new drive). So far so good, took a couple of hours to do. Sunday I started on the process of upgrading to Windows 10. It started fine, then got stuck on a "this is taking a while" screen, so I rebooted. Windows 10 booted up fine, although things weren't working, MS Store and Calculator for example and I was having some issues with my mouse (so far "fixed" by adjusting a setting in the BIOS). So after some time and digging around on the interweb, on Monday, I decided to do an in-place upgrade (basically acting as a non-destructive repair)... ...that seemed to have fixed the issues and every game I was playing on Windows 7 (apart from Elder Scrolls Oblivion) seem to work, so far, as do all the applications I currently use. I then started to proceed to uninstall some stuff that was left over from Windows 7 that I no longer need. And... ...started getting a BSOD (Blue Screen of Death) with a couple of codes every time I tried do things like uninstalling stuff or cleaning up the left over old windows files. Fast forward to today and I've had more of the same issue - just by opening Chrome and clicking on a web based radio station's stream player link! Seems be happening randomly because despite changing a setting in the power options (turning off fast startup) I have just had another of the same BSOD, by going to Google Translate on Firefox!?! My [insert deity name here] this has been a pita! I never had such a problem installing and getting Windows 7 running, even when I migrated from a HDD to an SSD! That only took me a day! Luckily I still have Windows 7 (dual booting with Windows 10) to fall back on if I need to (or want to play Elder Scrolls Oblivion)! At this point I really do envy people who can afford to just go out and buy a new PC with the latest OS pre-installed when developers force them to upgrade to play a new video game or application!
  8. Don't worry Tony you're not alone. I have the same issues. I started scale modelling again, not having done it since I was a teen, and did achieve a couple of good looking aircraft but never really felt I could achieve what I wanted to. So, because of that, and rising costs/diminishing income, I've had a "year zero" and gone back to what I had been doing for almost 30 years, and that is Games Workshop (or compatible brands) miniatures. Part of my problem is that I tend to want to achieve what the real artists out there achieve on scale models, and I can't. Lack of encouragement when posting WIPs or RFIs is also an enthusiasm killer. I do still feel the urge occasionally to build a scale model or buy a new kit, but I know that I'll lose interest in it if I don't finish it quickly (although I have that issue with GW models as well). My advice would be to go do something else and come back to scale models if/when you feel like it.
  9. A little interweb digging and apparently Sally B is appearing at the BOB Air Show Landing at Lydd at Headcorn or something - https://www.sallyb.org.uk/flying-programme.htm
  10. Just had what appeared to be an RAF Puma fly over going north-ish from Braintree, Essex. Also had Sally B fly over earlier. Is there something on at Duxford for Armed Forces Day this weekend?
  11. Eyeball your mix in a cup of some sort (I use plastic shot glasses) and listen to your airbrush - as long as it's thin enough, (most people use milk as an example) and your airbrush isn't sounding like it's having difficulty spraying it (compare how it sounds to spraying water) then you're golden. However, you mention a rough surface. Try getting closer to the model. With that low a psi the paint could be drying before it reaches the model, thus giving you the rough surface in places. Or increase your psi (and watch out for spider webbing). I spray Vallejo Model Air and spray at about 20-25psi, only reducing it via the mac valve on my airbrush when I need to get up close. I generally don't thin Vallejo Model Air paints, or add extra flow improver. Only very occasionally do you get a bottle that needs it. Most are OK (after a thorough shake). Although I've had a white and yellow that were too thin.
  12. I've had several spare parts/decals from Revell, both for kits I had, and that I didn't/don't. They never asked for any money. Both GMBH and USA arms have always been good in that respect. Didn't know they had an office in Tring though. Airfix on the other hand, last time I requested spares (for a kit I had) wanted a flat £5, paid by cheque - talk about dinosaurs! If I need a spare part for a Revell kit I will always go to them first.
  13. RobL


    I have both a Dremel 3000 and a Rotacraft 12v multi-tool. I wouldn't use either for removing plastic from a model, unless you want to remove very big chunks or are taking off from a very large area that you don't mind obliterating. I'd stick to using coarse sanding sticks if taking material off to replace with PE. I recently bought a PWM speed controller for the Rotacraft though. That might help it work reasonably for removing small bits of plastic, but again, I still wouldn't go there. One slip and... I use my Dremel for cutting thick bits (like clear rod) with a cutting disc (and DIY stuff like sanding wood) and the Rotacraft for drilling holes (although for some reason that's not quite as easy as using an actual drill or pin vice - I feel I need a third hand for adjusting the speed as I go!). Very handy tool to invest in though, I bought both mine with models in mind and I've actually ended up using them more on DIY stuff.
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