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  1. RobL

    RIP Ray Liotta

    Strangely I've never watched any of Ray Liotta's movie or TV credits. I did play GTA Vice City, though, where he voiced the main character. He's one of those actors you know of, even if you've not seen his work. RIP
  2. Hey all Another Games Workshop figure I finished recently, this one I started and completed on Saturday/Sunday. He's a bit of a conversion, because the figure is metal and had a different weapon, the plasma gun he's holding is plastic and from a recent Games Workshop release. You can't buy this guy as he is and GW have recently discontinued the last of their original metal trooper models for the Steel Legion... I've been having some camera/lighting problems recently, so these are the best I could do in terms of photos... The base he's on is 25mm in diameter at the bottom. Thanks for looking, C&C welcome.
  3. Hey all I realised I haven't shared this here (have I?), I finished this on March 20th, having stripped him due to a prior failed attempt at painting him in 2019. It's a Games Workshop Librarian in Terminator Armour. I built him to go with my Deathwing Terminators, which are built (but not yet painted) ready for use in a GW game called Space Hulk. The base he's on is 32mm in diameter at the bottom. Thanks for looking, C&C welcome.
  4. From what you've written it sounds like you're allowing too much paint to go down at once, and you're still using too high a PSI. I found when I was using Vallejo Metal Color, and did a Mig-21 using their Duraluminium (not the first or only model I've used it on), that I had to dial my PSI right back to about 10 on the regulator, and put down a light dusting of paint first, then gradually build it up in layers. You can't do one coat and done with it, and you can't blast it on at 20psi like you might other paints, is what I learnt. It can be a pita but once you get your eye in you can get a good solid coat in a couple of layers. And as stated by Ratch use a gloss black primer, Vallejo do their own for Metal Color, unless you want a somewhat less than shiny finish. You also won't need to wash and sand it. Because Vallejo Metal Color is so thin, it's more like using MRP lacquer paints, where I found the best technique was to get in close, extremely low PSI, i.e. 10 or below and put as little down as possible and go along and paint areas, rather than trying for an overall blast. This is how the Mig-21 turned out -
  5. Hey all Came across this on Tested's youtube channel the other day. Wish I had £374.99+ ($450+ US) just to pull apart a toy, damage it, then put it back together with lighting!!
  6. I wouldn't use fibre optic strands, they are easily broken and can be quite inflexible in tight spaces. I found that out when I wired up the nose lights in my Bandai 1/144 Millennium Falcon. There's a much better more modern way of doing it. Button battery as Black Knight said, or coin cell, a 3.5v CR2032 is ideal, they're about 1" round, you'll need the appropriate battery holder. Then get some pre-wired LEDs. SMD LEDs are what you are looking for, I've used 0805 SMD LEDs in the past. If you get them with magnet, litz or enamelled copper wire, the wires are far thinner, and far more flexible, than fibre optics, almost like string. You can either solder, use wire glue, or even just twist wires together to make a join. Personally, even though I know how to solder (badly), I'd go down the wire glue route for ease of use. You can even get conductive paint, for if you can't get a wire through, around or between parts... If you want a flashing set, get either flashing LEDs (which will all flash at the same time), or wire your SMD LEDs to an Arduino Nano board and look for code to program it with (it's quite simple). You can even go as far as putting in a remote to turn your LEDs/Arduino on/off, but I tried that on a project and found it drained the battery, because it still draws power from the battery, even though it turns the LEDs off... Plenty of micro switches on places like ebay - just put one between the live lead and the live (+ side) connection on the battery, if the battery holder hasn't got a switch already. There's a guy in Belgium who makes ready to install sets, if you don't want to "do it yourself", mostly for 1/32 scale though and I don't think they run off batteries - https://www.magicscalemodeling.com/ I did the eyes on this with SMD LEDs (it's only 7" tall), each eye is an SMD LED (less than 1mm round), the wires go into the body cavity where the battery holder is (there's also a micro switch hidden under the hatch in the top) -
  7. Hey all I feel I should know this... Back when I was doing scale modelling, up to the start of 2020, I was a member of a certain pay forum run by a well known guy with a youtube channel (not Genesis models, the other one), and I recall on some of his more recent videos at that time, he was advertising Gunze Rapid Thinners. The selling point was that Gunze's Self Levelling Thinners apparently has a habit of turning gloss paint less glossy. Whilst their Rapid Thinners doesn't have that effect. So, I'm wondering if anyone here has an experience of thinners, of any sort, turning gloss paint less glossy? And what thinners people use with gloss paints, particularly Tamiya or Gunze acrylic gloss paints? Thanks in advance, any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Thanks, I came across your build today, you did a very good job of it. Having built a 1/32 Porsche 917/10 by Matchbox I know that was somewhat tricky in places to secure pieces so I'm prepared for that on the Surtees TS16.
  9. Hey all For some reason this past couple of years I've on and off had an urge to build an F1 car kit, particularly when I watch, as I have been this weekend, events like the Monaco Historic Grand Prix, (although I don't have much of a budget so MFH kits are out of the question)... So, for my not too distant 45th I've decided to bite the bullet and service that F1 car urge. As a result I've just bought a Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16 kit. As I already have two of Matchbox's Porsche 917/10 kit (and I built, not very well, one of them), I am aware of the quality of Matchbox 1/32 car kits. Whilst I could just build the Surtees out of the box I'd like to do a little bit of "super-detailing", if it's even needed. So, I'm wondering what details, that can be seen, where there is no bodywork, need adding, providing they can be done with simple materials like styrene/metal rod or pre-made parts (if any exist in such a scale)? I'm also wondering what pitfalls in the build to look out for? Some things I've identified already - I'm guessing that stripping the chromed parts, with bleach (?) or IPA, and repainting them in something like AK Interactive Xtreme metal polished aluminium (or other metals, for the brake discs, for example) would be a good idea right off the bat? I know some ignition wire leads would be something relatively easy to add, so they're already on the to do list. I'll use 26 gauge wire (0.41mm diameter) for those, as from my basic googling it seems that would be an appropriate size. Seat belts, unless pre-made, would be a stretch for me, so I'll leave those out. My google searches haven't led to many up-close reference photos, but there's a couple of metal fins on the front wing ends that are seen in almost all photos of the car that I've come across, but aren't on the model kit, so I'll add those, 20thou (maybe 10thou) styrene sheet will make that a relatively easy task. There is a grill on either side, presumably radiator grills, that I am thinking could be replaced by mesh, because they don't look all that well moulded, but I don't know what size/type of mesh to use to make it look right, or where to source it from? That's all I can think of at the moment. Having come across scans of the kit's instructions, and looked at some photos of the car in period, it would seem that Matchbox got all the tubular framework and other details into the kit, where stuff is visible outside the bodywork at least, and only minor things are needed, like those mentioned above, and drilling out the exhausts, for a little bit of easy to add basic extra detail. Any info/advice on this would be greatly appreciated though? Thanks in advance.
  10. Not particularly hidden but I live not far from Weathersfield airfield. Which is soon to be lost to a double prison development, probably housing, and the small museum that sprang up a few years ago is being evicted. I'm also not far away from a war memorial near Bradwell power station, that many probably aren't aware of.
  11. Yeah I've had that happen with the seal in Tamiya Extra Thin and Quick Set Extra Thin bottles. Having been a member of a certain person's pay site forum I gather it's a common thing with those bottles. Not wanting to turn this thread into a bad mouthing of people's products, but UMP Dark Dirt wash totally didn't work for me. As much as I begrudge stating it, there's a better alternative out there.
  12. Ah right, thanks for that. Seems simple enough, stroke length being how far down the blade goes per cut, and speed how fast the blade goes up and down.
  13. Hey all My late father had a few tools in his shed that are still just about usable... One of which was a Challenge Xtreme Jigsaw - bought from Argos. There's a couple of dials on it that I'm not sure what they do, and I can't source a manual from t'interwebz, so I'm wondering if anyone here can shed some light on the matter? The dials in question are the orange one on the side, and the orange one on the top, as seen in the pictures below. The top dial goes from 1 to Max, the bottom, from 0 to 6 or something - Thanks in advance for any help on this, I'm guessing they're standard jigsaw controls common to all jigsaws, but I'm no trades person or DIYist, so I don't have a clue about these things!
  14. isup.me reports Wp.scn.ru as being down. Generally a good indication that a site is down...
  15. Used to love The Discworld series "back in the day". They went off the boil a bit though in his latter days. Never seemed to get the recognition other, more derivative and unoriginal authors get **cough**JKR**cough**, but his humour is sorely missed. RIP and Happy Birthday.
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