Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

RobL

Members
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

108 Excellent

About RobL

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hey all I've got a Harder and Steenbeck Ultra, with both .2 and .4 needles/nozzles. Recently I feel like I've been having a problem with it. 3 things really. 1. The trigger feels stiff. 2. I often get the air running on and have to pull the trigger up. 3. I seem to have to draw the trigger back quite a bit before I get any paint flow. It makes putting down a little paint, for panel fading for example, difficult. I've tried cleaning the nozzles, needles and aircaps, and the trigger/air valve don't look dirty/caked in paint. Problem 3 also happens with a cheaper "Chinawata" Veda-180 that I've got, but it's always been that way so I've always put it down to it being a cheap "Chinawata", my H&S Ultra I don't recall exhibiting that problem until recently. Would anyone here be able to help me diagnose and fix these problems? Thanks in advance.
  2. Kit Manufacturer: Italeri. Scale: 1/72. Paints used: Tamiya XF81/XF24/XF69/XF85, Vallejo Metal Color Jet Exhaust/Aluminium/Steel, Hataka Orange Line NATO blue. Clear coats: Tamiya semi gloss. Weathering products - Flory Dark Dirt and Sand wash overall. Aftermarket - None. Started this just after New Year, and I opted for the RAF 84 squadron, Cyprus, circa 1987 livery. Italeri's instructions are a bit vague on the placement of some of the small parts and decals, and there are panel lines on their diagrams that aren't on the plastic! Unfortunately I didn't check my references so some parts/decals may be in the wrong position (I'm fairly certain the chaff/flare dispenser on the tail is!), even though I followed the instructions. Forgot to put the side window clear parts in, I can still remove the "canopy" but I like how it looks as is. It was a hot day in Cyprus, the pilot had them removed, that's my excuse... My attempt at the Nato Blue band looks OK, although in the photos you can't see it's not perpendicular, as it should be, to the panel lines over the top, and it's wider than it should be. I used Hataka Orange Line Nato Blue for the band, but I think at 60%ish Hataka lacquer thinners I over thinned it as it seemed thinner and harder to spray nicely than MRP. FYI Hataka-lacquer doesn't seem to react well to Tamiya semi-gloss, that I think I thinned a few weeks ago with self levelling thinners, being brush painted over the top of it... This kit could really benefit from single piece exhausts... Pics - Thanks for looking.
  3. 'tis the season to build Star Wars, fa la la la la, la la la la Kit Manufacturer: Bandai. Scale: 1/144. Paints used: Vallejo Model Air. Clear coats: Tamiya semi gloss and Windsor & Newton Galeria Gloss/Matt varnishes mixed 50/50ish (because I ran out of Tamiya semi gloss). Weathering products - Flory washes overall, AK Interactive Bearings and Grease enamel wash. Aftermarket - Picture frame, rose gold copper wire, Tamiya Diorama Texture Paint (snow). Krystal Klear for sticking down a couple of the stickers on the Snowspeeder. I assembled these models in 2017, with a grand idea of sticking an arduino inside the body of the AT-AT, to control a couple of fibre optic strands in the chin guns, for a guns firing effect, and an LED in the "head" for the red "windscreen". Decided to abandon that idea as it was never going to be visible, just too small an effect on the guns at this scale and you don't see a red "windscreen" lit up in Empire anyway... ...So it sat for 2 years waiting for me to paint it all and put it on a base! Surprisingly the stickers on the Snowspeeder were as thin as decals, and didn't pose any problems, apart from a couple peeling on me... The purists will say "that's Luke's Snowspeeder", "your AT-AT is grey". It's not, I didn't put the specific markings on besides the grey stripes. I also really didn't fancy masking off the grey stripes on the Snowspeeder and painting them orange instead. And, I know. I would have preferred to have achieved that whiter grey look to the AT-AT, but I didn't, for reasons... I was going to buy a Rebel Alliance turret from a seller on Shapeways, I'm glad I didn't as there wouldn't be room on the base and due to limited display space I couldn't go bigger/longer on the base... Photos - Tried to get a "person standing on the ground looking up" view with these, unfortunately they're not much different to those above as I couldn't get my camera low enough - Couple of photos "from above" - Thanks for looking.
  4. So, I started this model back in 2017, lost interest and left it half built. I came back to it a month or two ago, completed the building of the kit and again lost interest. However I managed to finish it a couple of weeks ago now. Had some problems with fit, notably the canopy, the rear side joins near the burner cans and the sparrow missiles. Decals were another problem here and there, particularly on the Phoenix Missiles, for some reason after I had them on the missiles almost all the stencil data decals came off and rolled up on me as I was trying to handle the missiles to apply microset (or is it sol? The red one)! Lost the 2nd vane on the dorsal area also, I was so close to not losing any small parts! I also managed to scratch/damage some of the MRP insignia white paint I put down, during handling, whilst painting (and possibly decalling), I'm calling it weathering/bird strike! There is some oil weathering on it, but you can't really see it in these photos, and it didn't turn out quite as good as on my Airfix 1/72 A-4 Skyhawk (although I fogged the canopy on that one so hey ho). If I were to build this kit again, I'd buy a Master brass pitot for the nose (I had a terrible time with the kit supplied part, it still isn't attached properly or straight!) and try to get the canopy to fit nicely, or fill the gap, before painting commenced... Due to limited space, and my camera not being very good I found it quite awkward to get the photos I wanted and I'm not really sure why, so these are the best I could do at the time... Thank you for looking.
  5. Hey all Would anyone here be able to give me some help on some colours for a MiG-29UB? The subject in question is a Peruvian MiG-29UB, like this one - https://www.airliners.net/photo/Peru-Air-Force/Mikoyan-Gurevich-MiG-29UB-9-51/1521871 https://www.airliners.net/photo/Peru-Air-Force/Mikoyan-Gurevich-MiG-29UB-9-51/2436856 Need to know what the green and greys on the top side and under side, assuming they're different (and also that darker grey if it has a specific name/number) are called, and or FS or equivalent numbers, so that I can look for either MRP or Hataka equivalents. I'm guessing it's in Light Grey and Grey Green, and I'm also guessing that in MRP-land that's MRP 284 and MRP 287, although MRP-287, the Grey Green doesn't look as bright/contrasting as in those photos? Thanks in advance.
  6. I don't post all that frequently here, but I've had a pretty good year and a bit as far as modelling goes, so I thought I'd post up some photos of my recent builds... In chronological order, starting from last September - Hasegawa 1/48 Hurricane Mk IID (I'm aware the tail wheel is the wrong way round, it won't actually fit the correct way round, Hasegawa's error in making that part, although I suppose I could have cut it and sanded it and forced it to fit correctly). Xtrakit 1/72 DH Vampire Italeri 1/72 F-117 Nighthawk (unfortunately the kit decals for the underside cracked on me during the build) Revell 1/72 Tornado GR1 (I had a problem with the decals, they're by Printscale, and were very thin, the "Mig Eater" decal rolled up irreparably, hence why it's missing) Revell 1/72 Mig-21 Airfix 1/72 C-47 (my D-Day commemoration build) Airfix 1/72 A-4 Skyhawk (unfortunately the canopy fogged on me, Mk.82 Snakeyes are from Hasegawa)
  7. Thanks, until you posted those two links I didn't know. Steps 42-44 appear to be for the later Cheyenne tail gunner position. Steps 38-41 appear to be for the Boeing one. Shame that the instructions don't appear to indicate that anywhere nor do they state which one goes on which marking option either!?! Lets say you were doing a "Nine o Nine", could you get away with fitting the Cheyenne tail gunner position parts? The clear parts for that look easier to mask up/paint than the clear part for the Boeing variant...
  8. Hi there Just looking over the instructions and sprues of a Revell 1/72 B-17G and it seems to have two tail assemblies, one detailed in steps 38 to 41 and the other detailed in steps 42 to 44. What's the difference? Thanks.
  9. Hi I am planning a WW2 British commando/SAS post D-Day Jeep build. Problem is I'm having trouble working out how best to do it. For a starting kit I have 3 choices (all of which I will need to buy) - the Italeri Commando Car (kit #320), the Tamiya Willys MB (kit # 35219) or the Dragon SAS 1/4 TON 4x4 TRUCK ETO kit (6725). I've seen Legend do a conversion set in resin, but I'd have a lot left over as it's for 2 Jeeps The other Legend set only does 1 Jeep, but doens't have as many Vickers K guns as I'd like. Both I think are too expensive for my build and I'm not very good with resin, so I've ruled out the Legend sets as an option. The Dragon kit on the face of it seems the best option as it comes with all the SAS specific stuff, but I've read certain parts are incorrectly made (apparently the wheel hubs look wrong for a start), and it's a bit bereft of stowage. So, I'm thinking, as the Italeri kit is only about £10, that I could do a kit bash of the Dragon Kit and the Italeri kit - basically take what stowage is on the Italeri kit, and possibly the wheels from the Italeri kit, and put it all on the Dragon kit? My second option would be to do a kit bash of all 3 kits, take the SAS specific stuff off the Dragon kit, the stowage bits off the Italeri kit, and stick that all on the Tamiya kit (which I've read is possibly the most accurate of the 3 kits)? I'm guessing a 3rd option would be to kit bash the Italeri kit with the Tamiya kit, leaving out the Dragon kit altogether, but I think the Dragon Vickers K guns would look better than the older Italeri ones? Your thoughts would be welcome on this, as I'm really lost as the best way to approach this.
  10. OK thanks guys. Seems it's as much of a minefield as Olive Drab!
  11. Hi When the SAS (or any British commando units) were deployed in Europe after D-Day were their Jeeps just oversprayed SCC 15 over the desert sand colour they used in North Africa or were they completely stripped back and resprayed SCC 15 over primer prior to being deployed in Europe? If so, what primer colour did they use? Thanks in advance.
  12. Hi Stupid question time... What was the blue that the USAF painted their F-5E Lightning recon planes in? Was it the standard RAF PRU blue or their own variation, and if so does it have an FS number or a good match in acrylic brand paints such as Tamiya or Vallejo? Thanks.
  13. Thanks Andy. I came across that thread after posting this one, along with some other threads with your advice within. I also have been looking at your HAS.1 build. Very nice, and I have taken notes. I have a Fujimi SH-3H that I made a mess of, so I will use that as a donor for the sonar well on the underside (at least I think it has the sonar well). The other changes all seem quite straight forward and I think I will be best going with the Revell kit, I like the riveted look of it and it was the kit I built my HAR.3 from.
×
×
  • Create New...