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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/27/2014 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Small update. I have finally got all of the seams done on the fuselage and the wings. This took longer than I thought as I wanted to preserve as much of the surface detail as I could. There was one place on the fuselage that did not fit too well and took some care to fix. After I prime the kit, I’ll see how well I did on getting it fixed. Now I have to get these parts . . . To all merge together and fit like a glove around the engine and radiator assembly. I think the key here is to determine which one of these parts will be my reference to align all of the rest as the each part ties into another two. After looking at the kit, the instructions and the parts I think this assembly will be my focal point. It is the chin assembly that covers the radiator. Out of all of the parts, this one has the most positive location of where it should be situated. Hopefully, if I get this aligned correctly, the rest of the nose parts will just fall into place with no filler or fiddling necessary. And, soon after, the tooth fairy will pay me a visit and leave all the money she should have left when I was growing up and didn’t find under my pillow! As always, all comments are welcome.
  2. 2 points
    Hello with another of Nomore Shelfspace's rapid-fire postings (fairly rapid anyway). Here's another one I did quite a while ago, a detailed-up Gemini based on the Revell/Monogram re-release of the ancient Revell 1/48 kit. Came with a Mercury as well, which I stuck on top of a Redstone (see the other posting somewhere...). This one has a rebuilt interior, using the original "tub", back bulkhead and instrument panels. I also scratchbuilt most of the external detail such as that on the service module. Decals were from the Space Model Systems sheet. This had the thin black stripes for the service module, which were apparently a materials test on the real one - these very thin decals defeated me completely so I just left them off! Another job was reshaping the coves in front of the windows, which were not the right shape on the model. Look up Encyclopedia Astronautica for more information. This is one of my favourite models because of the work I put into it!
  3. 2 points
    Here is tonight's update. On the tail wheel I used my pin tool to try to create the illusion that the wheel was separate from the strut: The coat of primer revealed that some further filling and sanding was required: I had pretty much got rid of the ejector marks in the wheel wells but the fit around the side walls was not great: I had a long hard think about that and decided to leave them as they were - it would be a difficult filling job and who looks at the underside of models anyway? I hope you can forgive me for my lazy ways. Tonight I got some of the colour coats on, here is the Vallejo RLM 02 in the undercarriage areas: I used this Humbrol Blue Grey ilo of true RLM66 for the cockpit area as that colour is so dark everything in there would just disappear: (Note the clean fuselage edges after I removed the masking). But for a bit of tonal variation I did use Vallejo RLM 66 for the seat: When that lot has hardened up it will mean I am getting very close to closing up the fuselages - most exciting!! Bye for now, Nigel
  4. 2 points
    It's finished. Gave him a hand with the fiddly decals and painted the cockpit glass for him. J
  5. 2 points
    Tony, you truly are a mine of useful information Thank you very much. Anyway, as small and in this case I really mean small. I've made a thing. I was looking at the pictures of the interior that you posted above and thought I could jazz up the rather bare kit offering, especially the turret whiich looks nothing like the real thing. So, without further ado....BEHOLD! So, it's a bit crap but I'm strangely proud of something that has taken me over three hours. You'll never be able to see it but I'LL know it's there and that's all that really matters. I've also added rome formers and stringers to the rear of the fuselage and added the ammunition drums for the Vicker's gun. But I dodn't bother taking pictures of that. So, that's it for now. TTFN all!
  6. 2 points
    1/12 rc213v from max moto modeling, behind f1 models bikes are my favourites.
  7. 2 points
    Well doing the turbine took longer than I had hoped but its now in the aircraft, Just need to decal the pit and paint the seat and I can close her up. The fit of the instrument panel and tub needs some cutting and filing to allow the fuselage to close but not too bad. Cheers Rob
  8. 2 points
    Most of the landing gear interior detailing added Need to add some stuff on that blank looking back wall and ill be done i think.
  9. 2 points
    Be still my heart! You had me going there... Cheers, Bill
  10. 1 point
    Hi, I'am Xan Berastegui french (basque) modeller In my french forum I did first a description of the war between Japan and China, too long for my English level. http://www.master194.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=84688 Anyway I would like to share with tou some informations I could learn doing this project. My kit is a representation of the Kozachenko's plane, the first Russian ace in China . I should say it's suppose to be , because the only representation of the plane I founded was this profil : Staline didn't want too much publicitée about the USSR help to Tchang kay tchek forces... The only Russians I-16's pic I founded was this one (I-16 type 5) (I did the code as it appears in the pic.) The chinese I-16 were painted in USSR acording to the 1938/1940 standart with AII green According to those standart downside had to be painted in AII aluminium as I-15 bis or I-153 were, but according to Orlov the 21 factory didn't use aluminuim pigment but a pale blue who quickly turned to neutral grey.... White and blue stripe and upside roundel were present until 1939, where japanese sky domination became absolute. About the roudel, say that the chanese roudels symbolise a sun and not a star, so Japanese and Chinese had the same symbol in thir plane. In 1939, political situation changes, with the war in the west and kalkin gol war against the Japan, and Russian troops get out of China, 200 pilots died there... Well here are the pics : Xan
  11. 1 point
    Ordered a Frightening from an eBay vendor in the UK, and surprise, surprise, it's got the original stab-less box art! I'm RICH!!
  12. 1 point
    Oh-58b KIOWA light armed reconnaissance helicopter of the Austrian armed forces or Bundesheer Italeri 1/48, OOB with spare decals Its armament is composed solely of a 7.62mm minigun on the port side. It is still used as of today in this role and the only armed helicopter in Austria apart from the side mounted MG used in the Blackhawk it was recently seen quite a lot in international exercises often with fancy camouflage schemes! Her one is depicted in its more usual green brown: and a special one for patch enthusiasts:
  13. 1 point
    Great job! looks superb,an old kit but a big favourite of mine.No criticism but the decals have "silvered" which is strange as you have a nice sheen on your paint finish,next kit get a couple of coats of gloss on which will help the decals settle then finish with a matt or satin coat to finish,
  14. 1 point
    Assembly begins with the cockpit. I'm painting the canopy metallic blue to block out the cockpit view. I wanted to accelerate the build, so I'm skipping painting the cockpit. It doesn't look that bad though. maybe I should have painted it... Glue up Seam work ahead! It came with these resin things to stick to the back. the instructions call out removing some of the plastic by the exhaust to fit them The left side has the material removed and the right side is stock. Here they are installed The wing section fits to the bottom but it's not a perfect fit. The gaps on the uppers were manageable. The intakes fit wasn't great. I got a step on both sides that needed sanding and filler. you can see the not perfect alignment of the forward section of the wings. I painted the intakes before gluing to ensure I got good color coverage in there. Here is a gap shot, I suck at filling gaps. I used superglue and Mr. Surfacer 500. Here is where I am now with the base color coat on
  15. 1 point
    That looks great! And a fantastic subject too. In addition this is a brilliant place to learn and pick up tips. Oh, and by the way, my first effort when I returned to the fray after a 20 year break was nowhere near as good as that, although I still keep it out on display to inspire me!
  16. 1 point
    Thanks a lot gentlemen. I'm late replying, again... The 1/1 scale Miata is metallic, but a very fine grain and the paint works surprisingly well on a model. Now, I remember I mentioned Renault 4CV models, and then nothing happened, again. Side tracked I suppose. But here they are, all built from Heller's 1/24 scale kit that's been around for a while. Well, what can be done with that kit then? It can be built straight from the box, like these two from 25 or so years ago. The police car kit is a little different and highly recommended for something different. But these are not what I had in mind. Back in 2000 I used an old Heller kit of the first issue to build this R1063 racing version from Le Mans 24 hours in 1951. There were a number of modifications done, first to back date it to the early front trim style, then modify the front wings and add the lower rear air outlets. The seats where scratch built with the frames soldered up from brass wire and dressed with strips of thin masking tape. Removing the hub caps also leaves a plain face with no details so the centre detail of the wheels had to be scratched. I printed my own decals, it wasn't the first decals I did but I was still new to it and experimenting. It's one of my favourite models, but I could have done a better job dusting it off for these photos. A couple of years later Heller reissued their 4CV kit again and I bought a good batch of them to have a stock to pick from as there are many interesting projects one could do. Some 1/43 resin kit releases inspired me to build the same cars in 1/24, and in 2007 I did a few. First was this spyder version from the 12 heures de Paris 1950 race. Although it seems a radical conversion the work was quite straight forward, I think the hardest was to make a good looking cover over the passenger seat. This one required a bit more work... It's the chopped, sectioned and heavily modified 4CV proto by Bizeray from a race at Monthlery in 1954. It's certainly one of the more bizarre looking modifications of a competition 4CV that I have seen, but it made an interesting project. Just a little later I built this French Autocross version from the early -70's. I found a period French article describing this car and they were apparently more modified and well prepared than I thought, using Renault 8 suspension and other newer components that could be sourced from scrap yards. For this one I used the front suspension from Tamiya's A110 which is basically the same as a Renault 8 and the rear suspension from a Heller A110. The engine I think I took from an Esci Renault 5.
  17. 1 point
    I thought the kit looked a bit bare there. That will do nicely! Regards, Adrian
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    George. You lucky, lucky friend of Nigel! That looks beautiful. Are you going to paint it or do it as a clear skin? I am jealous.
  20. 1 point
    Great presentation along with a wonderful build and paint job. Tremendous! Gary
  21. 1 point
    Chaps, Finally some cad-renderings showing the soon to be released HK Models single - and two stage bomber Mosquitoes. See link http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/3060-132-mosquito-bomber-coming-soon/ Cheers Cees
  22. 1 point
    For the B/C/D/N I'd go Academy. E/F/G/S/K/M & RF's Hasegawa. Academy is bringing out a J soon too, you'd be safe with that or the Hasegawa kit.
  23. 1 point
    Good evening, Thanks for the kind comments and for following the WIP! Weathering is still progressing. It previous work patiently is refined until satisfaction... Not yet. Start of the underwing: More soon. Pascal
  24. 1 point
    Great job real nice weathering, you wont find "Royal Army" markings as it just Army here in the UK.
  25. 1 point
    Ya know, your "philosophy" hit home I hadn't thought of it that way,but realize I agree and have been doing it also. Thanks for putting it into a coherent thought. Now I can go back to my nap and dream of the models I goinna build....some day
  26. 1 point
    That's a truly striking scheme and very nicely executed too. There definitely seems to be something missing from that cupola though.....And I thought the Revell 1/72 part was poor!
  27. 1 point
    Flt Lt Ightning needs some of his 74Sqn buddies to join him in the gallery.
  28. 1 point
    So you've used "artistic license" .... so what?! Looks fantastic. The "Tiger purists" may tut-tut but who cares? Build to please yourself not other people is my motto these days. I'm currently painting up a Tamiya early Tiger 1 myself and with a similar hotch-potch of decals that I happen to think work well together (all over panzer grey though, not winter camo) and I will be very happy if mine turns out as well as yours. Great job! - Steve
  29. 1 point
    Thinking of dipping my toe in the water, either with a breathtakingly original 74 Squadron Lightning, or...another thing, if someone is headed to the PRO in the near future and could do me a favour.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Looks good to me, especially after ten years away. I should say that I learn something new with every build I do, and every build I read about on Britmodeller. Welcome and enjoy. I will look forward to seeing more of your work. Cheers, Tom.
  32. 1 point
    Good move to employ the airbrush for this paintwork. That and your tenacity to eliminate that seam will reap the reward of a stunning model you can be proud of once done.
  33. 1 point
    Looking good so far, the only way to make those doors look more imposing would be to stick a tax demand on them. Keep up the good work!
  34. 1 point
    This one is certainly coming on in great strides. Lovely work getting those u/c bays fitted.
  35. 1 point
    Great job!! I think the weathering is superb for that scale! cheers Nacho
  36. 1 point
    It looks SUPERB from where I am.
  37. 1 point
    Welcome, and three lovely little AFV,s to start with too!
  38. 1 point
    Good progress Tim That job offer sounds interesting as well. As for part 5 - got a resin seat for my kit so if you need the spare bit let me know.
  39. 1 point
    Keep chatting amongst yourselves - some of us are busy! Iain
  40. 1 point
    Now the doors have dried I have started by dry brushing some Citadel Boltgun metal, Then, Dry brushed with Americana Deco art metallic white and metallic purple, Then highlighted the stars, handle, fittings and bolts with mithril silver, And finally give them a heavy wash with Citadel Nuln oil. Cheers Rob
  41. 1 point
    All the superlatives have been used.... Me, I am just dumbstruck.... What a build... Well Done
  42. 1 point
    I believe that Seafires up to the MkXV had Interior green cockpits , the Mk XVII's had the black upper part of the cockpit and green lower part and the F46/46 /47 had an all black cockpit . But having said this I could be wrong. Andrew
  43. 1 point
    I became interested in Great War machines at a very early age (and I would point out that when I was a boy, these as near to me in time as Vietnam-era jets would be to a boy today). Photographs of them I saw, particularly pusher-types, were fascinating. Partly, too, there was inspiring example: a family friend, by trade a diamond setter and a pilot in WWII, built the old Aurora models to an extraordinary standard, and displayed them in his shop's show-room. As I have grown, and learned more about the engineering behind these machines, and their operation, the fascination has deepened. I agree that in modeling terms, biplanes can be quite tricky, but like anything else, with experience and practice one can develop a knack for it, and it becomes no big deal to make one come out right. Personally, I cannot see how people get through doing the cockpits of modern jets; they look insanely intricate....
  44. 1 point
    Neil, if you do buy the Sunderland for the turret, I'll take the rest off your hands, for free. No need to thank me, I'm just trying to help out a fellow modeller. Regards, Jason
  45. 1 point
    Great work! I love all three of them! That old Airfix kit turns into a very good looking Hurri...
  46. 1 point
    Just checked the scale to see if it was 1/48 or 1/32. Turns out to be 1/72! WOW! It's amazing, top work and detail!
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Well, this is new!! It is, of course, a little different from your usual posted output, will certainly be watching to see where it goes. Will we see the effigy of a tin triangle at the altar waiting for the next victim?
  49. 1 point
    It is an arguable fact that the new Airfix Vb is the best 1/48 Merlin engined Spitfire kit ever done (certainly the best one of the early series airplanes). In some ways it's even superior to the Eduard IX. It has exactly as many parts as the designer decided it needed in order to accomplish what he intended to accomplish with it. The kit is clearly made to be modular enough so that they can do other variations on it (good on them!).
  50. 1 point
    So, since apparently everybody missed your point, perhaps it wasn't that clearly stated in your OP? Kind regards, Joachim
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