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Nomore Shelfspace

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About Nomore Shelfspace

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  1. Got to point out, my usual browser (Firefox) wouldn't log in to Village Photos, telling me it was a security hazard. I have no reason to disbelieve it.... Today of course is October 16th 2019, I notice this thread started two years ago.
  2. I was thinking of doing that, but it's a lot of work and I more or less stopped modelling some time ago. Would be nice to let newcomers see my creations though.
  3. Presenting the Monogram 1/32 Apollo CSM, with New Ware etch interior (and other parts), and Space Model Systems decals, plus of course the Realspace Models resin unitary hatch. This kit was released in 1969 and is still available. It is the only accurate commercial kit of the craft, although it appears to be based on monochrome official drawings and some photos, and has inaccuracies as it comes - the biggest one being the gold plated Command Module! A full interior is included, although the complex instrument panels are for reasons that may never be understood, represented by terrible stickers in green, black and red. Most interior colours are wrongly specified in the instructions. The space suited crew figures are best discarded. With some research however a reasonable model may be produced. The CM chrome finish - strips of tape on the real one - is hard to replicate, I used Extreme Metal chrome. The build progress on this model is here in In Progress.
  4. Okay space fans, some more photos of bits before I post photos of the FINISHED MODEL - and it is indeed finished as I type! The Four Tea Strainers antenna - I made a rudimentary jig after thinking about it for the space of a transmission "bleep" - (for the space, geddit) (ok...) - the tea strainers are tacked in place with double sided tape. These are the New Ware parts of course. Problem in painting them is not to let the holes get clogged with paint. I glued them in place with industrial superglue - this has to be applied quite thickly otherwise it doesn't set, but the dried glue can be retouched. The reinforcing "stars" picked out in alu. The white things are the feed horns. Some retouching needed... ok, it's finished as I say, and once I can take some good photos (i.e. not with this ancient Olympus) I'll post it to Ready for Inspection. It's been quite a journey, this one...
  5. OKay, some actual progress on the mission... I used a Humbrol acrylic spray can for this, for one reason or another it came out really grainy, but responded well to a rub down with micro-mesh. It looks a bit wobbly because it hasn't been fixed to the stand properly. Note the small recessed panel left of top centre, this is an umbilical recess I think - I cut out the aperture, backed it with sheet and detailed it with bits of rod. It's quite noticeable in some photos of the real one. I'm not going to detail the top of the SM because as I pointed out before I am sane, sort of, and want to stay that way... Loads of masking later, and the structure at the end (not sure what it's called) was sprayed Extreme Metal chrome, without the black undercoat. It's still a bit grainy but I can't do much about that now. It certainly looks worse in the photos! Masking off. The white radiator panels need retouching, but this is a significant step towards completion.
  6. Some minor updates before I start the Big Spray to finally finish this thing. I had lost two of the EVA handholds since breaking down the original build and stowing it away, so I tried making replicas by sticking the surviving part in moulding wax a few times and pouring epoxy over the resulting impression. I was surprised when it worked! However the resin was full of tiny air bubbles. I wasn't prepared to spend too much time on this so just picked out the better examples... This is the Extreme Metal Chromed CM, with details painted up and docking probe (almost intact from the original build) attached. The recast handholds are the two on the right. The decals for the yaw and pitch engines on the transparent section survive, but obviously the ones on the "solid" part were gone, so they had to be hand painted... the step between the clear and solid parts is noticeable here because of the lighting! Note the red seal inside the hatch. I used a mix of red and some sandy-brown camo colour to get a sort of "silicone gasket red" here. I think that's more or less what it was on the real one... I lost the cone on the tip of the docking probe so made a new one by chucking a piece of sprue in my old Rotocraft tool and "turning" it with a file and sanding stick. The CM was stuck to a piece of ply to avoid handling the extremely delicate chrome finish. There is some spot respraying to do, then I can coat the chrome with Klear. It might be worth noting that the chome extends around the edges of the heat shield by about 5mm. On the original this was strips of metallised tape, but I gave up trying to represent this on the model... I think I am sane and want to stay that way... The Business End. I had broken up the gimballing parts when dismantling the kit originally, and I wanted to fix the SPS engine bell in place anyway - you can see the old figure stand (Tsukuda Hobby) I intend to stand the whole thing on. I cludged the gimbal ring at the top of the engine bell in place with sprue, bits of sheet and industrial superglue blasted with that evil accelerator stuff - this I realise now was a bit pointless as the ring doesn't support anything... A hole had already been drilled through the top end to take the stand rod. The conical ring just at the top of the bell just rests on the edges of the aperture in the base of the SM here, I had to build up the "burger" of stryrene sheet to allow it to rest on the disc-with-a-cross-on-it (no other way to describe it, sorry) you can see inside the aperture, then drill through that - trusty old jewellers hand drill shown - to take the rod. And there is much still to do!
  7. These are brilliant. I'd like to go to this show but it's too far for me to drive.
  8. I think Dapol are really trying to keep up the quality of those old Kitmaster/airfix kits, although it's been about 20 years since I built one... might be worth a try as they are easy to get hold of. Just had the idea the best way to get a really good B Type is buy a new issue for the decals and an old one for the parts...
  9. Nice build, salutations on getting a rotten kit finished... I often think it's better to search for an old issue of some kits, as I recall the one I had about 40 years ago was pretty solid (and moulded in lovely red plastic). Same applies to the Dennis Fire Engine, I had an old issue a few years ago but sold it.
  10. O-kay, the mission resumes... Here's the RSM kit. It's mastered by 3D techniques and although there is a bit of flash on the small parts, pretty amazing. I used plastic rod instead of the brass rod supplied for the linkages - more scale looking and easier to cut - length should be about 4mm so no way is this fiddly...! A lot of filing and sanding stick-ing was needed to get the opening the right size for the coaming, which also had to be filed a bit. This resulted in even more dust inside which I got out with various devices including a Giottos photo blower, a vacuum cleaner and bits of lens cloth on paperclips. Think it's all gone... It needed a bit of re-forming to match the curve but this gap is fillable. After cleaning up the parts I swabbed them with alcohol and gave them an undercoat of matt grey enamel. I masked the hatch opening on the inside before sticking it in. Thick cyano for the chrome half, glue n' glaze for the clear! Mask around the opening, fill gaps with perfect plastic putty, smooth down wet and mask the rest of the clear areas when dry. I fitted the hatch into the opening with white tack. You can see a crack just above the hatch, I decided to paint this over as there's nothing underneath to show. Spray gloss black enamel, hatch and all! Secret of real gloss is to spray close at a low pressure. More to come...
  11. Okay folks, a small "what I did before I realised I could get an aftermarket part" update... The transparent section is glude in with Beatties polystyrene cement and Glue 'n' Glaze.It doesn't fit very well but more of that later... I'm making the raised frame around the hatch... you can see my bodged together hatch on the right there. That's thin styrene sheet making the frame (the second try in fact...) Here's the frame or coaming in place, and I'm sanding it down with my home-made sanding devices (plus a nice icom (Japanese) sanding tool), as it has to be bevelled. The inside edge has to be filled with Perfect Plastic Putty as it is decidedly misshapen the way I sawed the hatch area out. Some very careful sanding and filing needed here. The tape protects the rest of the module, but you might be able to see where the chrome finish is already wearing off the top due to handling! There is also sanding dust inside the transparency but I can probably get this out. This is when I had some sort of revelation; 1/32 Apollo CSM hatch by Real Space Models. There is about as much chance of me scratchbuilding something like that as there is of the Moon actually being made of cheese. OK, the porthole surround should be a brownish colour but look at that thing. Postage from the US cost more than the item ($18 and $15 respectively) but I decided I had to either carry on and build a hatch, with great difficulty, and keep the hatch coaming, or hack off said coaming I'd already spent a lot of time on and just stick this in. No contest, I ordered the RSM part. I am wondering if that coaming has the right curve on it to fit the actual CSM but we'll see, I have got stuff from RSM in the past and they know their stuff. Once this arrives, I can update! PL
  12. It seems to be a flying model and they may have "made allowances" for this! Here's some sort of link; https://www.rocketreviews.com/apogee-components-saturn-v-170th--by-tim-doll.html
  13. Okay, after many orbits, I finally restarted this thing... This is the interior painted up as best I could get it. The incised detail on the etch pieces is very shallow and not easy to paint. I used a semi gloss enamel for the darker panels, then when dry painted the detail roughly with satin black acrylic. This was allowed to set a bit then wiped off to leave the black in the etched-in areas. Other details were picked out with a brush. Once dry everything was plastered with Xtracylic matt varnish! The seats are out of the box - although because this was a rebuild of a broken-down kit, reassembly was tricky as most of the locating pins were busted... I had to make new handholds (the brown loops under the control panel) out of strip after the original brass ones broke when I stripped the paint off at some point... the white handhold at top was also scratched out of rod. I didn't bother too much with the docking tunnel as it cannot be seen easily once the thing is assembled. Another look at the inside walls. Control panel in all its hard to paint glory. The finish is rough but again, it won't show once the module is assembled. A no less important part, inside the outer shell of the CM. Window surrounds were some sort of brown resin stuff. This is the parachute housing detailed up with bits of wire to represent the attaching cables etc. And here it is all buttoned up! The seat frame was very hard to fit - being a rebuild rather than fresh out of the box, various parts were hard to align and once the brass etch instrument panel was on, it covered the holes for the upper shock struts. The large square window (not visible) was filed and sanded down so it fitted snugly into the opening. Various bits inside needed filing or hacking down so the outer shell would fit. I will probably have to repaint the CM at some point anyway and I am still planning how to handle the transparent section that fits in the gap here. OK, goodnight from me!
  14. I also built a slightly accurized Airfix LM at the time. I also did one some years ago which I think I posted here, based on a nice article from the IPMS magazine I found online. Main problem now is sourcing decent gold foil...!
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