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Will Vale

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About Will Vale

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    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1975

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  • Location
    Wellington, NZ
  • Interests
    Modelling, Running, Cooking, Work, Fatherhood.

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  1. Another friend suggested the same thing, I'm pretty sure you're right as it definitely has hydraulic steering. In which case the back ends of the cables would probably run up over/into the frame just forward of the oil tank since the hydraulic pumps are on the transmission in that general area. So what I've got is probably OK in lieu of better pictures Phew. Will
  2. Actually going through the maintenance section of the operator's manual they're probably something else. No idea what though. [edit] Unless it's the auto-greasing system, in which case the lines would terminate at a rack of injectors on the frame behind the front left wheel. W
  3. Did a bit more last night, stretching a load of sprue then trying to find some consistent-diameter sections to make the lines which run along the front frame and are very visible through the wheel arches. I think these might be grease pipes, I'm not really sure. They're long, thin and metal. At the front they terminate in a diagonal line like that and connect to flexible hoses which either go through the frame or up over it into the engine bay. Thankfully there don't seem to be any on the right side as it was quite a fiddly process to line them up and glue them without creating a mess. Well, without creating more mess than I did - I had a false start and ripped it out again. I think it looks OK now although everything aft of the frame strut (above the wheel mounts) is made up as I don't have pics of that area. The grease nipples are all clustered under the rear lights (above the diff housing, assuming it is a diff and not just a couple of bevel gears) so it's not impossible that the lines would run all the way along, although inside the frame seems more likely that outside it? I also added very basic representations of the sight glasses on the oil tanks. They should be hexagonal with little hoods over, but needs must - I don't have any hex rod. When dry I'll drill them out which I think will make a difference. Will
  4. Wormpunk Stick worms on it and paint it glossy! W
  5. I filled the rubbish scribe line and stretched some sprue instead. (you might need to click & zoom in, sorry) That gives a nice rib between the tanks, and I was able to add the ones on either side too. The bottom edges look quite nice, but the top is getting rather messy and I don't know quite how it'll be under primer. The yellow plastic is quite irritating. If it does turn out that it's all a bit off I can probably sand or pare away the top edge of the rod where it attempts to wrap around. There's enough detail up there that it may not be too obvious. I also thinned the ends of the brackets a bit. They should really be U-shaped but I don't know if I'll go that far. Oh, and removed the extra oil filters. Nearly done with this bit now, apart from some more piping. Cheers, Will
  6. I've been downloading a load of HD785-5 pictures from bizarre sources like a Russian site listing replacement part numbers, and what I think is a Malaysian heavy plant school All of which makes me want to add more details, but because I haven't really planned things too well it's been a bit haphazard. I started with the oil tanks because I had a good pic of those already. I just added the bolt heads today which may have made things a bit messy - maybe 1/87 is too small for that kind of nonsense? The scribed line is standing in for a raised bead between the brake oil and hydraulic oil tanks, I need to fill it and have another go as it isn't straight, or maybe replace with a stretched sprue bead? I also added the bracket for the oil filters on the left, which turns out to foul the mudgard. I'm not sure if I should remove it (it is a bit messy) or move the whole box up? I suspect the former as there's not a whole lot of room on the right next to the dumping ram. I also removed the engine baffles as I haven't found any pictures of them fitted. That committed me to doing something about the engine lump. The block is about the right shape, but lacking detail, and the "transmission" section looks to be completely fictional. It should be further from the engine (there's a prop shaft at each end of the chassis) and shaped more like a transmission More or less two fat cones stacked up, with mickey mouse ears at one end which I think are the oil pumps. Just baby steps so far. Will
  7. Thanks Jörgen, I just hope that I cleaned up the surface well enough after filling it. The yellow plastic is quite translucent and hard to read, I was holding it up to the light to see what was going on. I guess weathering will help, and they do get dinged up in use. W
  8. Cheers! There's another detail in that picture I was thinking about how/whether to make - the indicators. On the HD785-5, they're in what looks like a diagonal cutout so they're visible from the front and side, with a bar in the angle. On the kit they're flat. It might be possible to file out the diagonal recess and add the bar, but there's not much room to work there and it might be too risky? You're right about the users adding stuff, almost all the pictures I've seen have some kind of firefighting system above the engine, they vary a bit but basically I need a stack of red or blue bottles with some pipes That master cutoff button or whatever it is just above the bumper is cool too. W
  9. Hi all, I've previously built one of the Kotobukiya HMM Zoid kits (the Pteras) and was casting around for something to do recently so decided to start the Molga in my stash. The Molga (or Slitherzoid as we knew it in the UK) was one of my favourites as a kid. Silver and red! Hidden guns! Wiggly crawling action! This version doesn't go, but it's got nice details apart from one or two "phoned in" areas like the tail, and was really nice to build and paint. I painted it with Alclad Aluminium (I think White Aluminium) and highlighted the tops of the curves with Pale Burnt Metal. The flanks and lower areas are heavily shaded with Hotmetal Blue, normally I'm a bit too sparing but this time I wanted it to be really visible which I think has paid off - you can see the shading even after all the dust was applied. The red is a mix of Tamiya Hull Red and Bright Red, shaded with a Citadel Contrast mixture made from dark brown and cold red which created a lovely rich colour with some surface patina to keep things interesting. It's weathered with enamels (sparingly, I used acrylics for any panel lines and other wash-like tasks) and misted coats of Tamiya acrylics, plus a few pigments, lots of dry-brushing, the usual sorts of things. I was going to weather less, but I got the colours a little wrong and had to take it further to get everything to sit right on the base. Speaking of which, the base is a little piece of acacia sold as a sort of hipster serving platter. I built up the landscape with scraps of foamcard, and used slate, sand and CA to provide surface texture. The cracked earth on the roadway is one of the GW crackle paints, which work rather well if you put them on thickly enough. All in all, a relatively short project, but a fun one - the kit was well-behaved and the simple base was quick and satisfying to do. If I hadn't put the weathering off out of fear, I'd have been done at least a week or so sooner. If you're interested in the steps, the WIP thread has most of them, especially some step-by-step pics of the base. Thanks for looking! Will
  10. I was curious too and went back to look at my reference. On a lot of trucks, the steps look to be made from stiff cable - you can see the strands. I think maybe because if they were rigid below the bumper they'd probably get irreversibly bent, so it's better to have something which doesn't snap after being bent back and forth a few times. But in the pic I linked above of the weathering I was planning, they're definitely chains I do have some etched chain somewhere, I dunno if it's fine enough though. Will
  11. Thanks Considering they're largly eyeballed I thought they came out quite well. I guess I did use the kit part as a template for bending the first rail. Not 100% realistic - the rear rails should be proud of the surface - but should probably look OK under paint and some rust I need to make the lower steps (below the bumper) which might be suspended on chains in some photos. Or maybe the rods are just easily bent? W
  12. I've made a start on the details by filling in the large mounting holes for the kit ladders and building my own: They're from 0.5mm brass and styrene rod and slivers of styrene strip. Still over-scale, but they have the right section (the kit part has square section rails) and are a good bit lighter than what was provided. I also added a couple of missing hand grabs on the bonnet. I did a couple of other filling jobs at the same time, for the mounting holes for stairs on the right equipment box, and blanking off the underside of the bumper where the mounting pins for the bonnet fit in. I may have painted myself into a corner with the cab - mounting the frame means I can't drop it into place inside the railings, so I either need to add those last, or cut the frame away and put it back. I think I might do the latter - if I drill up through the mounting posts into the frame and then cut flush with the mounting plates, I can pin it exactly back into place and keep the work I've done to fill around the joins. I also need to decide about the mounting holes for the railings - they're a bit big but the real ones do protrude. Cheers, Will
  13. Looks rather nice, I think it's quite clever that they've gone for the wacky version as a first release. The mouldings (and your assembly) look really clean - rather Tamiya-like, with crisp detail but not too much, and relatively large parts. Will
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