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Will Vale

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About Will Vale

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    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 07/06/1975

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Wellington, NZ
  • Interests
    Modelling, Running, Cooking, Work, Fatherhood.

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  1. Will Vale

    Dragon 1:9 war machine

    No pressure! I'm probably in possession of more unfinished build threads than anyone in the sci-fi area... W
  2. Will Vale

    Dragon 1:9 war machine

    Thanks for bumping this thread, I missed the baboon skewer which is totally awesome. Poor baboon! Masking looks good, I hate masking on figures and this one is really complicated. The Titanium is nice too, it has quite a different look in the shade and in the sun - cool effect. Will
  3. Will Vale

    The world just got more ridiculous!

    Some of the anti-hyperbole hyperbole in this thread is almost as hyperbolic as the original story! Stay rational! Don't fall into their trap! It's all a grey area really isn't it? I loved Iron Sky, but I can see that with right wing sentiment on the rise in Europe there are probably some associations with Nazism that are best avoided. And as Mike said it's hard to get a sense of the level of outrage (or otherwise) that might be felt in Germany from a position in the Anglosphere. Which has spent the years since WW2 turning Hitler into a figure of fun - see 'Allo 'Allo, Iron Sky, Monty Python, Danger Five, Kung Fury, etc. etc. etc. W
  4. Will Vale

    Sky Ship - Scratch Build.

    That's the easiest and most fault-tolerant, definitely. If you had a 9V supply and three blue LEDs you would want to look up the forward voltage. If it's 3V or more you won't drive them properly from 9V. If it's under 3V you'll need to calculate a suitable limiting resistor. Be aware that battery cell voltage drops off as the battery discharges (especially with alkalines) so if you're close to the rated supply voltage your LEDs are likely to go out long before the battery is drained. Example: If you had three 20mA red LEDs with forward voltage 2V in series across a 9V supply: Total forward voltage desired = 6V Voltage drop desired across resistor = 9V - 6V = 3V Current desired = 0.02A Ohm's Law: V = I * R (Where V is voltage in volts, I the current in amps, and R the resistance in ohms.) So R = V / I = 3/0.02 = 150 ohm Pick the next highest value that you have handy, e.g. 150, 180, 220, 330 ohms. You can also calculate the power dissipated as heat by the resistor by multiplying the current and voltage: P = V * I So P = 3 * 0.02 = 0.06W So tiny resistors rated for 1/8th watt are just fine. The pay off is that your three red LEDs are drawing 20mA, whereas if they were in parallel they'd be drawing 60mA and running down your battery three times quicker. Cheers, Will
  5. Will Vale

    Sky Ship - Scratch Build.

    Awesome to see someone teaching Ohm's Law! That said, online "LED calculators" are super handy Lots out there to choose from. NB: It's good to check the LED datasheet (or your supplier's webpage) to find the forward voltage - the 2V quoted above is roughly right for red & yellow-green, blue & white & clear green usually require a little over 3V. Lots of info here: https://www.evilmadscientist.com/2012/resistors-for-leds/ If you're using higher voltage supplies (anything over 3V) you can run some of the LED strings in series, which wastes less energy in the limiting resistors. (Edit: Didn't phrase that clearly, I mean you can have strings of series LEDs in parallel across the supply. Which might save wire as well as battery life.) Cheers, Will
  6. Will Vale


    Thanks Pete, that's very kind of you! I've really been enjoying your Gundam thread and the excellent photography in it, we're all our own worst critics I suspect. Excited that you're going to be painting some wee people, what's going to be first out of the stash? I've been a bit short on time the last few days but have made a little progress on the wraiths. I spent a session working on the leg/claw copper bits, which I'm not super-pleased with: I drybrushed/stippled Vallejo Liquid Copper over the edges and ends, but it was a bit hard to see so I added a drybrush of Ironbreaker (silvery) and I think it might be this I'm not wild on? I also added a wash of Nuln Oil mixed with Nihilahk Oxide to create a patina, blotting it off with a paper towel, and that left things a bit flat. I ended up adding more Liquid Copper and a bit of copper pigment, still not sure it works though. Maybe it needs a rub with some graphite, but while that'll create sheen it'll also dull down the copper tone, so I'm undecided, Overall the metal looks OK, but not quite vibrant enough next to the very neat and tidy and sharp-looking green bits. And I've also been doing the gun and glows on this one, which are better but still rather messy: That's just a matter of going in and cleaning up though, it's not so tricky since it's all flat colours. Cheers, Will
  7. Will Vale

    Bandai TIE Fighter

    Great way to make use of all that crazy moulded detail, although I don't envy you painting all the little bits. W
  8. Will Vale


    Did some test painting last night and this morning, seems good so far: The paint all stayed workable overnight and doesn't seem to have got unworkably thin. So far so good. Haven't actually done much on the wraiths but I made a start on the glowy bits as you can hopefully see above. And the reason I haven't had much painting time is that WE WERE WATCHING DUNE IN THE CINEMA!!! Result, etc. Will
  9. Will Vale


    In related news my fancy-pants wet palette from Redgrass Games' Kickstarter turned up today: So far so good, although the magnets which hold the well palette in place are a bit feeble. If I don't instantly become a genius level painter now I shall be sorely disappointed! W
  10. Will Vale

    Bandai 1/60 mkii Gundam

    From here it's coming on really well, almost seems like a shame to cover up that amazing inner frame I've had some luck using Tamiya extra-thin on extreme cases of silvered Bandai decals, but it needs a delicate touch. FWIW your pics with shading are coming out on my monitor - i.e. I could see the grey shading on the head, and the yellow-orange on the V-fin. So it might not be your camera but your screen? Cheers, Will
  11. Will Vale


    Yes I think so, but maybe with drybrushed edges rather than edge highlights? I don't usually find metallics are soft enough for that to look good. It might be that I don't have the technique yet but I'm not usually sure about it when the GW painters to it on e.g. swords. I've started on those claws though, with a basecoat of (two thin coats of) Screaming Bell. This is a pretty horrible metallic on its own, but it does have a good colour as a base for copper and once washed with Agrax Earthshade I think it's OK. You can see how poor the coverage is after two coats though! I'm intending to use Vallejo Liquid Metal Copper to highlight these, but I need to see how well that drybrushes since I normally paint it on. Hopefully the effect will be like the Tesla carbine muzzles on the Immortals above. Yeah it's going to be slightly fiddly just getting in to paint it at all. I *think* that because it's all in shadow it won't need to be too perfect, and I can keep the glows quite short-ranged like I did on the Immortals. That should save some effort and mean I don't have to worry too much about legs, but maybe some glow on the chins might be right? Cheers, Will
  12. Will Vale


    Not a lot of painting time last night as we were out doing a high school visit - nearly time for Miss. V. to move up to big school, you see. I did eventually pull out the paints and spend a little while on the legs of one of the wraiths: This is basically the same treatment as the carapace, i.e. stippled highlights/shading followed by drybrushed highlights, edge highlights, and a green glaze. But in less detail as there's less space. I quite like it and I suspect I've fully drunk the edge-highlighting Kool-Aid now! I used to be a bit scathing as it doesn't always make much sense, but it does show the form and increase perceived sharpness, so maybe it's cool? W
  13. Will Vale


    I was going for railway enthusiasts, having been a railway modeller I feel like I can say that. W
  14. Will Vale


    Thanks Ian! Last night I replicated the carapace paint job another two times and added more green glazes and dark/white definition to all three. Then I sealed the paint with a brushed coat of Klear and this morning rubbed it down with a 2000 grit sponge: Now back to the legs, I suspect, although I might take time to paint the orbs at the front in glowing orange? Will
  15. Coming on well there Nick, Colonel Dare would be proud. Will