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Will Vale

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About Will Vale

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    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 07/06/1975

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  • Location
    Wellington, NZ
  • Interests
    Modelling, Running, Cooking, Work, Fatherhood.

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  1. That's looking lovely and vibrant and a tiny bit rude! Giger works through us his mysterious works to perform... W
  2. Will Vale

    LED lighting for airliners anyone?

    Sorry Cristian, I tried a couple of times to post some code and the browser kept crashing. Will see if it works now. So for an engine "throb" I generate a uniform triangle wave by storing scaled time into a byte, and then convert that to a sawtooth like this: byte sawtooth_to_triangle(byte sawtooth) { return (sawtooth > 127 ? 255-sawtooth : sawtooth) << 1; } I.e. invert the top half of the range and double to restore the full range. That can then be smoothed by taking a weighted sum with an older value, which gives an OK looking cheap sine-like wave. The noise generator is similar, it runs a timer until it reaches a randomly generated delay, takes the quotient of the time and delay to get an irregular sawtooth wave, and converts that to a triangle wave. When the delay time is reached it generates a new one from the inbuilt 8-bit RNG, masked with a range to control the max wavelength. It's not in any way a high quality noise function (or even a noise function!) but it's cheap to evaluate and doesn't use any floating point maths. For combining the different signalsI tend to either shift and add them to build a weighted sum, or to use a normalised multiplication, like this: byte mul_norm(byte a, byte b, byte shift) { return ((word)a * ((word)b + 1)) >> shift; } The user-specified shift lets you pick the output range you want, to do a straight normalised multiply shift the output by 8 bits. W
  3. Will Vale

    Microsoft Edge crashing in the post editor

    It seems to be behaving again, maybe a bug that got patched as I did get some stuff from Windows update yesterday. FWIW I don't get the dislike of Edge, it's fast, has a good touch interface, supports HTML5 well and doesn't keep trying to talk me into logging in like Chrome does I guess IE may have salted the ground for some people! Will
  4. Will Vale

    Airfix Fokker Eindecker

    Thanks! The last thing that happened was my spraying some white primer on the stripe area, and getting a slightly rough finish. I need to rub it down and continue but probably got distracted by something shiny! I do know where it is and will get back to it eventually. I also need to order some fine rigging from Uschi van der Rosten before I get much further. Cheers, Will
  5. Hi folks, I'm seeing a frequent problem with MS Edge/Windows 10, which has otherwise been working really well with Britmodeller for aaages. When I reply to a topic, quite often the cursor keys will stop working in the text editor, and usually this is followed by the page's tab "crashing" and reloading a few seconds later. I thought at first it was maybe when it was trying to insert an emoji because I'd typed e.g. a close parenthesis, but it seems to be less specific than that. I've cleared my cache and cookies, any other suggestions? I'd prefer not to change browser if I can help it. Cheers, Will
  6. Will Vale

    Kill Team/Shadow War

    I scraped and sanded the seams a bit, then cleaned up with a scouring pad and washed the whole tower in soapy water. After a bit of air drying (and some hair-drying!) I was able to apply a couple of thin coats of Tamiya Red Oxide primer. Rather better than the Duplicolour I used on the earlier scenery, which is perfectly fine but *still* smells faintly like it's outgassing after a year... Unsurprisingly, there's still some work to do on the seams, but less than I expected. It helps that I oriented all the different parts and tubes such that their seams (generally) aren't aligned, so you can't see a single seam running up the entire tower - with that they tend to get lost among the details. I'll have to do something about the thin side-stack though, especially near the top. Cheers, Will
  7. Will Vale

    Space Marines

    That blue is looking really good. I used to hate the look of edge highlighting but I'm totally in love with it now. It's daft! I'd also say it's like most fashionable techniques, in that it's all about increasing the perception of contrast and sharpness at the expense of just about everything else - so there are good reasons not to do it FWIW it can work well with chipping applied over the top, as it breaks up the edge and stops it from looking excessively tidy. Love the old-school Space Wolfs by the way, I'm glad you've chosen to keep them as a memento of the time! W
  8. Will Vale

    Kill Team/Shadow War

    Well it's a year or so later and I haven't painted more terrain, but I did pick up Kill Team (latest 40K skirmish game, with rather cleaner rules which tie in to the new 40K edition much better) and my daughter and I have been playing that a bit. I also bought and built a box containing some Space Wolf Primaris marines (the big ones) and couple of sprues of Sector Mechanicus scenery. The wolves have had parts added from the old-school Space Wolf pack kit (which is full of lovely details) as you can see: As they're moulded in coloured plastic it's easy to see the added (dark grey) bits - I removed the various wolf decorations from the old bolters with an etched saw and grafted them onto the modern guns - bolt carbines and heavy bolt pistols. The old guns should still be perfectly usable and they have other harder-to-steal wolf details so nothing lost, I hope. There are also some *excellent* heads in the old set, which look like they predate digital sculpting. I was particularly pleased to discover Conan, who's definitely going to be the one in charge of this little lot. The new models have a lot to like as well - there are some cool "action" poses available, like the guy drawing the knife, and the other in the "CQC" pose with pistol and blade. I also *really* like the grappling guns. The default grappling gun arm is the right hand, and it only really fits pointing forward, but I was able to swap it onto a left-arm-with-blade using the pommel as the butt. That meant I could have a proper Batman grapple pose The most difficult bit to transplant was the fur cape - this was moulded as a rear torso half so I had to cut all of that away, cut out the backpack fitting and thin it down as much as I dared to fit it over the Primaris torso. Incidentally, I built these figures using Tamiya's new quick-setting Extra Thin, with the yellow-green cap. It's really good, you can glue e.g. the halves of a torso together and by the time you've cleaned up the legs the joints are about ready to scrape and sand level. I guess I'll need to wait until they're primed until I can be 100% sure though, there might well be some minimal seams remaining... The scenery sprues sat around for a few days since I remembered them being a bit labour-intensive, but when I got around to it it wasn't too bad. Again using the new glue, I spent an hour one evening cutting out pieces and taping them up to see how it went, and about three hours last night building this: Rather than make lots of small pieces, I wanted to try and use all the parts in one big thing I failed in this, there are two pieces left over - a hatch that really didn't fit anywhere, and a pipe connector I didn't spot until it was too late. I still need to properly clean up the seams (although I've done a bit) and to facilitate this the side-stack is just clipped in place. I'm not sure if I'm going to put this on a small base - in my mind's eye it would look good with some dangling wires etc. and a slightly wider footprint would be good for that. I could also get the hatch in there Cheers, Will
  9. Will Vale

    LED lighting for airliners anyone?

    Hey Cristian, thanks for the kind comments. You're right, you cascade the LEDs although I don't think they use "proper" SPI, it's more a bit-bang protocol where each LED consumes one set of commands (the 24 bit colour) and passes the next on. So you have to update the entire string every frame. I didn't get into the timing for this as Adafruit provide a perfectly good library for it, but it's in the datasheets if you want to roll your own. From memory the superposition just uses a mix of the functions - a smooth triangle wave for the engines plus some noise. It's all 8-bit maths so I probably scaled and added the values in some combination, I'll look tonight. The flicker is probably some sort of thresholded randomness where the threshold changes over time, or maybe the "off" part of the duty cycle changes over time? Cheers, Will
  10. Will Vale

    LED lighting for airliners anyone?

    Interesting plan. You could use cheaper boards with fewer outputs if you switch to e.g. addressable RGB LEDs, which only need one data pin to drive a string of as many as you want. Although they do tend to come in bigger packages - are you thinking about installing SMD LEDs in wing and fin tips, or running fibre? Code size shouldn't be a huge issue since airliner patterns are super simple and repetitive, even if you have some kind of ramp up/ramp down, but yeah I think 256b of RAM is quite small if you're not used to embedded programming. For reference, this sequence runs on an ATTiny which has 512b of RAM, and there's some room left over (although I used a fair bit of ROM to store the animation data.) Cost me about 20 USD in components I think, with no bulk discounts. The controller is built around an Adafruit Trinket board. Cheers, Will
  11. The new trackbed looks very robust, and I love the videos, they're so relaxing! Do you use on-board power for the locos? I've done various small scale things and admired a friend's garden railway, but never taking the plunge myself. At some point this summer I'll get the Lego train track out on the deck and see how that goes Cheers, Will
  12. Will Vale

    "Here's Johnny"

    Stunning. Real door, real Jack, giant fake workbench. Will
  13. Will Vale

    What's your favourite brush?

    Some good advice up there, I really like this: "Use the paints the local game store sells and pick out the best tip or point from the brushes they sell." I paint with Citadel (with brush at least, I airbrush with Tamiya) just because it's the best-stocked paint range, there was much excitement when our local model shop brought in a Vallejo rack, but they've never restocked it since they got it, so it's now sad and pointless. Whereas I can go into Games Workshop, pay admittedly more money, but be pretty sure that the colour I ran out of that morning will be waiting for me on the shelf. I'm even starting to make my peace with the new Citadel metallics. Yes the grain size is a bit big, yes they split, but they do blend rather well and sometimes that's just what I want. Still jealously hoarding a quarter-pot of Mithril Silver though. I haven't had the misfortune to spend time on any really stuffy figure painting forums so haven't encountered much negativity, which is probably good as I'm usually trying to spend less time per figure and still get a result I don't hate! If you're on Facebook, I'd highly recommend the "Eavier Metal" group - it's a mix of ability levels from beginners up to god-like experten, but it's very supportive and a great source of inspiration and horizon-widening (as despite a GW slant, you see a lot of things from other manufacturers.) To answer the original question, the brush that I really like and go back to a lot is the Tamiya HG Pro pointed sable. It's got a fat handle and the point was like a laser compared to whatever I was using before that (I think something with Taklon bristles.) I'm on my second, the first started to lose its point after two or three years of constant use. I was a bit sad actually because I passed it to my daughter to use on a figure she was painting recently and when I cleared up after she'd let wash dry on it to the point that it's really not coming back I've given it a couple of goes with Masters brush cleaner but I think I'll need to use something stronger. Ah well, at least she did some painting! I've just received the box of S7 brushes as recommended by Oileanach - they arrived yesterday so that's four days from the UK to NZ Looking forward to trying them out, I've bought a couple locally but they've all needed some tweaking (generally overlong guide hair, or at least that's what I think it's called?) so I think our domestic supplier may have had a batch with bad QC? Cheers, Will
  14. Will Vale

    Necron Wraiths

    Thanks I like the way the background to these mixes ancient Egyptian necromancy with The Terminator. Will
  15. Will Vale

    Space Marines

    That green Gundam (?) leg is extremely good. And thanks for the link, I remember reading that a few years ago but was never brave enough to try it on something like an aircraft - all those internal spaces to fill with water! Makes lots of sense on 40K stuff though. The result seems to be a bit like you'd get by sponging on paint/washes, but with more control and less tendency to skip the concave areas because the sponge can't reach them? Will