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Will Vale

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About Will Vale

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    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1975

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  • Location
    Wellington, NZ
  • Interests
    Models, Orienteering, Fencing, Cooking & Dad-hood.

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  1. Cheers, I like adding green stuff as it's both easy and gives finer detail than you get in the plastic. Grass tufts are fantastic too but I can't use them on these as they'll get in the way of the wall pieces. Thanks! I think it makes it easier to paint the yellow as you don't have to get it solid all over - if you shade the corners orangey and the middle tan, then the yellow looks much more vibrant than it otherwise would. Will
  2. Thanks, sorry it's been so long. I've got a couple of fantasy figures to post when I take some better pics, including this chap: Cheers, Will
  3. Ah yes here we are - Darren Ives on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cold_caffine_diorama_daz/ This is just brilliant Cheers, Will
  4. Thanks Andy, I was worried for a while that they were too uniform and there was too much primer showing through, but adding brown/green/blue glazes to individual squares really helped break things up. Yeah I thought they'd be a good general photography thing, although as you can see from the posed photo I can only fit one in my booth, the second one ends up angled up about 10' Cheers Pete, I didn't cut any holes although there's a guy in Glasgow making fantastic dioramas with these who went a lot further - I'll see if I can dig up the link for you. The darkest areas are supposed to be puddles although it doesn't show up very well from above. There are indeed bloodstains, there's a character called Mad Donna in the original Necromunda backstory so they're a nod to her. These pics are from an earlier version, I ought to take some new ones of the details. The tiles are a foot square each, and yes, a single piece of styrene per tile so you can cut and glue them like normal. They're only about 5mm deep but there's a pattern of ribs on the back and they don't seem prone to warping. Cheers, Will
  5. Hi folks, I was rather lacking in time and mojo earlier in the year, but about halfway through the big NZ lockdown I got my brushes out and finished a figure, and then moved on to these tiles somewhat at random. Games Workshop sell them as something to use with their recent terrain for Necromunda, which is modular and fits into the tile tops. I wasn't sure I liked it at first, but seeing the built and painted set in my local GW was a great sales tool The tiles I bought before that though, because I thought they'd be a great photo backdrop for 40K models, and maybe even for the Titanicus (small scale) stuff. They're a very (very!) simple build (open box, take out tiles) so obviously it was all about the painting. I was careful to leave scale cues off two of the tiles so they'd work for both scales, but couldn't resist adding some to the others. I used a bit of everything - Tamiya base colours, Citadel details, oils, enamels, and lots of Contrast paint (like acrylic inks) for glazes and filters. Someone on Instagram asked "what colours did you use" so for a laugh I wrote out all the steps and ended up with 70+ - and that was before I'd finished all the details. I quite fancy getting another set and building some stuff up on them, but first I have the abovementioned modular scenery which I've built but not primed yet. I think it might be quite hard work as there are a lot of very similar pieces, but hopefully I can chip away at it over time. My '90s vintage Van Saar gang are a bit confused about all the changes from the original Necromunda scenery Cheers, Will
  6. Some good arrivals up there! I also acquired the re-released Saber Tiger a month or so ago, I always wanted the battery one as a kid and I think the HMM version is a good update. The Liger DCS-J looks cool as well. Cheers, Will
  7. Sorry there hasn't been much happening here, the place I get my timber from closed since the last time I did a layout and I need to find an alternative. Most DIY stores have the right things but terrible cutting services W
  8. Love the beam going through the leaf/petal/plant bit, it really sells the whole thing! The pistol design is neat too. Are you going to add any plant matter ejecta, or is raw plasma more of a hot cooking effect? NB: No. 1 offspring will be very excited to hear you're making a giant T'au, she's very much in favour of their sneaky mind controlling ways W
  9. That's too cool. All the detail in the command area is so sharp. And spacecraft with engines at the end of long struts are automatically better than other kinds of spacecraft W
  10. Some great likenesses there! I was worried you had a huge amount of clean-up to do, but it's all the nest gunk on Newt so just fine Eggs are looking very nice, as are Newt's dungarees. The texture from the paint lines adds a nice level of detail. W
  11. Love the level of detail in the finish, it's just full of things to linger over. And the white face really makes the scheme. NB: Is the name a Game of Thrones reference? W
  12. Nifty! Definitely channeling some of much-missed Syd Mead's influence there. Especially that skinny upright cab. I really like the industrial detailing like the cylinder inside the door, and the layered reveals in the door frame. One thing I noticed on this build and your Vespa - it looks like you're sponging on the rust/chipping, is that right? There are a few spots where it seems like the rust has stopped at the edge of a panel, e.g. on the lower windscreen surround on the final pic. I tend to get this when I use a sponge and find it helps to touch up with a brush afterwards to wrap a few of the bigger patches around the corners. IMO it looks more 3D that way. Apologies in advance for giving unsought advice! Cheers, Will
  13. Sorry about the gap, I tend to have a bit of a modelling slump in January anyway, and I'm still debating about the Hakone track plan. This is quite close to a (compressed) version of reality. In real life, the downhill (lower) line from the switchback turns CW to meet the bridge roughly parallel to the switchback itself. Having it descend ACW inside a tunnel makes it easier to open the angle between the bridge and switchback which should help with fitting what is in real life a *massive* gorge onto a two-foot wide baseboard without it being horribly caricatured. In other news I sprained my thumb (hopefully just sprained) crossing a ditch at an orienteering training camp so some of the more physical aspects of modelling (scraping and sanding) are a bit painful at the moment. I suspect the thing to do is to make my mind up about point control and get an order in. I don't want to use Tortoises as while they're really good, they're also enormous. Tam Valley in the US has a nice setup using SG90 micro servos with mounts and a controller board, that might be the way to go. I could roll my own but I suspect it'll end up costing almost as much and probably not work as well as a bought one! Cheers, Will
  14. Thanks Stew & Cheese I wouldn't like to offer any predictions. I'm between contracts at the moment so in theory have lots of free time but stuff keeps filling it. W
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