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Will Vale

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About Will Vale

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1975

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  • Location
    Wellington, NZ
  • Interests
    Models, Orienteering, Fencing, Cooking & Dad-hood.

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  1. It depends! I glue as much as I can without making life difficult. So if the figure has a big collar or bulky armour with a recessed head it's easier to paint separately. Likewise if it has sticking out stuff like long lances that make it hard to get in with the brush. But if I can get away with fitting the head it can help, especially if the joint needs attention. Not gluing figures to bases is useful too, as you can easily paint the undersides of flared clothing and armour, inside the legs etc. Will
  2. I seem to be, if not on a roll then at least making some progress on these elves: I have a unit of ten of these wardens, the unit leader of which is the model which sold me on the range. I've made the bases in a batch, now I need to batch paint the remaining nine models. (Actually 11 models as my daughter and I both got a free one as mini-of-the-month for March.) I did the bases to semi-match the moulded base from the archer as I like all the rounded rocks. So I had to make up a batch from Sculpey, rolling ovoids and texturing them with crumpled foil
  3. I think the thing I notice the most is that you're weathering all this stuff so it's dirty, but even the dirt looks incredibly clean and precise. You can see everything's just where it's supposed to be. I really like it, Will
  4. Thanks all, I've got ten spearmen primed up now and I'm just making a cautious start on one of them. Ages since I've painted a squad. Will
  5. Thanks, it was fun trying to figure out a pale scheme.
  6. Hi all, Spent the last three evenings painting this little archer from Games Workshop's Direchasm box. She's a member of the Lumineth Realm Lords who are a re-invention of the Warhammer High Elves and have some really nice flowing sculpts with quite a bit of Japanese inspiration. I tried to be neat and tidy but also not go too far as I have a couple of units of figures to paint. The face has suffered as a result (plus I find painting into the open helmet really difficult anyway) but I'm pretty happy with the rest. The colours are all warm
  7. Looks like someone's summoning went badly wrong! Nice work, the colours are really subtle and you did a lot of blending in a short time. (I think in three hours I might've just got some base coats on...) Will
  8. Very nice work! I've tried to build palm trees like that and totally failed, but yours look great. What's the secret?? Will
  9. Nice work, suitably icky and the glass eyes are a great idea. Will
  10. Nice details. I get a bit of a vibe of the cartel ship from Solo, which is no bad thing - vertical ships are cool.. Will
  11. I'm curious as to how you get the chipping fluid out of all the nooks and crannies when weathering deep pieces like the back plate? I've tried latex gloves and the fact that it sticks to itself, but they both work better on flatter surfaces. Will
  12. Thanks for the nod @Andy Moore! Kallisti of this parish has built most (all?) of these as well. Lovely that these are going to be widely available again. I loved building the Mole, not least because it's motorised like it's the '80s again. It does indeed use two motors, but only one set of batteries as there are sprung contacts to supply power from the Mole to the carrier. It even has a flashing light on top, actuated by a cam rather than any of your new-fangled transistor things I got mine from some very dubious looking website overseas and it had the motors in it, but they'
  13. Always pleased when "do nowt" is the best option I think he's probably done now? I reassembled the head to the tendrils with the thicker Tamiya glue, then filled the gaps with CA and cleaned up the paint in that area. I've added a tiny bit of lighting from the green skull on the hand and chin, I think less is probably more otherwise it's just going to be mad glowz all over. Will
  14. Here's the above, plus varnish. Probably good enough to fit back on the model now and decide after that if any refinements are needed? Some of the dark areas are a bit mucky-looking, so I might need to blend or re-highlight them? Or it might be fine against the more drab Necron and base. I'm hoping that the EXTREME SATURATION will be enough to distinguish the bits from the projection/solidogram/dimensional artifact/whatever it is. Will
  15. Scan lines are an interesting idea, I'm not sure I have enough brush control to paint contours on the curvy bits though! I've added a bit more shading and definition around the lower parts of the skull and the recesses, and glazed it with purple/teal/yellow over the outside/inside/top. It looks OK at night, I'll try and get a coat of varnish on and take a pic tomorrow. Cheers, Will
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