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  2. i think i’ll buy it and use the UkrAF parts on one of my many Revell Vipers. I wonder how the ICM decals are?
  3. DD743 and DD744 were repainted in a dark blue, see this profile, SAAF Mosquito DD744 profile
  4. Ah ha......yes I have quoted that many times to justify some (most?) of my stash and it is mostly true. I mean if I live to 304 years old I might even achieve the promise. I love the detail painting you have achieved. I am also looking forward to seeing how @Martian improves the airfix offering using the reskit parts as a guide/inspiration.
  5. Thanks for the feedback guys. As has been mentioned in a few other Sea King builds on this forum, the Sea King was in service in many different roles for such a long time that making an accurate model of any particular aircraft doesn't just require references for a specific type or even a specific airframe but that specific airframe at a specific time in it's long life. When I started looking at what details needed to be changed for the airfix Hu5 kit to be made into an Har3 I discovered I had to be more specific.... which Har 3 and when? The more I looked the more wanted to add/change/improve but, sometimes some of the details are guess work and copied from a different aircraft on a different date. I am quite pleased with the balance I reached between super accurate versus it looks about right in this scale (a very subjective topic I believe). If I am honest some of the time spent on detail painting of the interior is procrastination to avoid the very large area of yellow paint on the outside. A 1/48 sea king is big and yellow is notoriously difficult to do well and I am equal parts intimidated and eager to see if my airbrushing skills are up to the task.
  6. Very cool. A local shop only open on weekends had a stack of new releases of stick and paper models supposedly made hereabouts. I chickened out... the dimensions were too big for my small city place.
  7. G'day Jon, I've not done one of these myself but it seems from threads on Airfix forums that you're not alone here. Much f_ _ errr fettling is required. That's what I like to see, determination. 👍 And remember the old adage :- if things don't fit then use brute force and ignorance. And when all else fails, get a bigger hammer! 😁 GOOD LUCK Regards, Jeff.
  8. Today
  9. G'day, my copy of the "Anatomy of the Ship - Yamato" states that the Japanese made extensive use of welding to save weight but mainly in the superstructure and in the longitudinal structural members. The hull plates were butt-joined at the fore and after parts of the hull, lap-joints elsewhere. Presumably rivetted. In all her construction used over 6 million rivets and 7.5 million welding rods. HTH. Regards, Jeff. P.S. - Apologies for the thread drift, I forgot this was a IJN Takao thread.
  10. Thanks, Mate, really appreciate the kind words. It is a decal; the old Hasegawa decals tend to be thick. It was difficult to register to the aircraft but with a bit of wrestling, I guess it work. Cheers
  11. Never seen mention of this before. I've seen various other comments on other issues, but not this. https://www.ipmsstockholm.se/home/spitfire-pr-mk-xix-in-detail/ Airfix kit Note this is an early XIX which was not pressurised. The canopy maybe not bulged enough, but looks to be the right length, compared to other airframe features. The XIX is not simply a derivative of earlier high back versions, but part of the PR family. The curved screen is the standard PR screen, note the rear section on the pressurised airframes is deeper. Rob Taurus it seems just make vac form replacements, I don't know they bother correcting any issues. If you are doing a Spitfire family, the Falcon Spitfire special set maybe worth considering https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/FNCV4172 Comparison photos really help if you are going to ask questions like this. The Airfix XIX is not a great kit, there are some simple modifications I thought helped it https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235073488-spitfire-pr-xix-airfix-72nd-as-i-thought-it-would-be-easy/ The main comment was the wing chord, an easy fix, and blank wheel wells and the club like prop blades need work, and the seat seems too high, but all of this is in the link. The canopy came up well with a Kleer dip If it's the same as their 1/48th, you will need a new spinner, the rest is do-able but it's a load of work. The Sword kit is limited run but seems to be better. I'm sure various other members will add in their thoughts. @The wooksta V2.0 @Giorgio N @Beard ? HTH
  12. I like them! if we take Star Wars to seriously it will dive us Mad! i do not have your building talents! a small contibution from me a sketch with Penny the Cat from some years ago...i am not welcome at my local collectable shops due to me asking to often if they have anything JaJa Binks,Howard The Duck?...any deals on Rose Tico and Fin? it upsets them
  13. Looks great! the original kit with the motor a lot more ££3 so balances out...you would soon get bored of the motor action...nice to see one not weathered (not a criticism)
  14. I guess you're right. I only brought it up knowing I would make a complete hash of it if I tried. 😬 My next thought is, would the formulation of those paints be suitable for thinning and airbrushing? Again, I must emphasise it would be beyond my talents to try it and succeed. 🤪
  15. Makes me feel ancient. I bought it new as a 15 year old in 1968! Believe it or not it was "state of the art" back then, NOT a crap kit. Nice start.
  16. Is the plastic the same for 6019 and 6019A?
  17. Well put indeed! I guess it still won't satisfy some pundits, but I totally get it. 😎
  18. Thanks...its only paint! no one useed that car park top level...its rough!...still standing today amazingly... the reason i think i saw a cougar is there were news reports of sightings in Ceshire that year and i saw it sunbathing in the grounds of a closed chemical facrory.
  19. Yes, I like the sound of this. Steve.
  20. Nice build! Looks great!
  21. @Dave Fleming Hi David. Just to avoid us both contacting Anthony regarding posting to the UK, would you be kind enough to post here any response you may receive from him? I'm still interested in the Red Devils decals, and obviously disappointed not to be able to order from the website Cheers.
  22. You are most kind - thank you! I airbrush aqueous acrylics over a preshade coat. All the colours have a highly thinned highlight coat applied; Dark Earth lightened with Mid-Stone, Dark Green with Mid-Stone, Nato Black with Interior Grey Green (yes really). This is then gloss-coated and a Flory wash applied - Black for uppers, Grime for undersides. I then flat coat with Vallejo matt varnish. Hope this helps - the WIP at the top of the thread will also reveal all! Cheers, Roger
  23. I was doing this for relaxation but wow, what a crap kit. There's something about this green plastic that resists sanding and shaping and the fit and flash are bad. The Hurricane and Spitfire I built recently went together much more easily. Also, the rear windows don't remotely fit. You can even see it on the box art. So I'm going to make new ones out of some clear plastic. I was going to do an out of the box build but this one is fighting tooth and nail! The nose wouldn't fit centered so was quite a sanding ordeal. Assembly order is kind of weird because I want to do the flaps down but don't want to get trapped with too much underside masking The upper seams just won't go away: This is how poorly the rear windows fit. They're like 30% too short for the space I've got the space scanned and traced, I'm going to print it on frisket then use that to cut the clear plastic and also as a paint mask
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