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About GazB

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  • Birthday 05/28/1990

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  1. You know it did actually occur to me later on about giving the stuff a shake. I think I overlooked it at the time because it would've come firing out of the now permanently open lid >< Gah, would be just my luck if I have a bad batch Thanks for the pointers, though. Gaz
  2. Its got so many names and changes so often. I looked all over the place to try to confirm I was getting the right one, and one post I saw mentioned those over at Finescale Modeler confirmed the formula code for Future/Klear was the same as this stuff. Gaz
  3. I mean, I never sprayed the previous stuff through my airbrush given that ammonia seemed to be the only guaranteed means of cleaning it out and not risking destruction of the airbrush itself. When using the old stuff I just used a soft brush. However, when trying this with the new stuff, it was leaving brush marks instead of self-leveling and then it was drying to an inconsistent finish. The only difference was in the product rather than the application, and where the old stuff was more like milk, the new stuff is like unthinned Tamiya paint. It doesn't seem to flow or lay down as well and even days after application (while dry) doesn't look to have dried the same way, offering a collage of satin and glossy patches. I don't tend to build aircraft myself. I have a few 1/48 builds but, two of the canopies had already been painted up. The only one I might apply it to would be a 1/48 helicopter canopy. But yeah I've only ever brush applied the Pledge and so far the new one doesn't seem to like it much at all Gaz
  4. Wish they gave directions on how to open it. I pulled and twisted that bit of cap for ages to no avail >< Gaz
  5. Daft thing is it has the same formula number as Klear, yet it seems to be nothing like the stuff everyone raves about. I may just have to go back to my old stuff What's additionally annoying is that the cap has three holes you have to puncture into to use (didn't seem to have any kind of twisting action and didn't tell you how to open it to use that). All well and good for pouring, except no way to close it up again and its not pressure sealed, so if it tips it leaks. Put some blue tack on the top of it, and have to hope it never gets knocked over. Gaz
  6. Its like when I tried tinting clear parts, and I do the same thing other people did, but they fogged up. Its really weird. Gaz
  7. I suppose long term it might be cheaper since every time I'd need a new bottle of gloss I'd be paying more for the postage than the pot. Also when I did a bit of brush painting with my Tamiya X-22 it started to remove paint for some reason. But yeah, £13 ain't cheap, especially if the stuff isn't doing what its supposed to be. I remember trying to do the canopy dip with the multi-surface wax like everyone used to try. Didn't work then. Never seems to work the way everyone else does it, and I'm really confused as to why. Gaz
  8. Hi everyone. So I bit the bullet and ordered some of this stuff after my other Pledge Multi-Purpose Wax got a bit contaminated from a dirty brush, making it not quite as clean as it should be. I discovered Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss was essentially Future and bought some. However, when I've done a quick test with a bit of brush painting like I would previously, I noticed two things. A: First, it seems to be thicker, almost the consistency of Tamiya's clear gloss when unthinned. B: Second thing I noticed was that its not drying to a consistent finish. I tried a hair dryer to see how long it would take, and some patches of the coated area went more satin, and others more gloss. Giving it an almost patchy appearance. Considering I've always heard this is the wonder stuff, I'm scratching my head a bit. It seems to be glossier around small particles of dust that got caught in the paint, and while weathering would likely mute down a lot of this, I'm not feeling a lot of confidence in applying this stuff to the more visible parts of my kit. Starting to wonder if it was worth the £13 if its not going to give a better or equal finish to my last bottle. Does it need to be thinned with water or something, longer drying time etc? I'm genuinely confused so any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks, Gaz
  9. GazB

    The Real Color Debacle

    It is pretty weird. They thinned it with water in an AK vid with seemingly no issues as well, but the stuff goops up if you do. It created a solid mass in my airbrush once trying to clean with water. When I messaged AK about issues like these they ignored my emails. A little while after they deleted a video and released it again, I think with updated info, and also changed the info for the paint on their site. No idea what was going on. Possible they were trying to sell it as some kind of works with all wonder paint but couldn't get it to match with that in reality. Gaz
  10. GazB

    The Real Color Debacle

    I was in the same boat as you when I first got them. I was told by AK themselves that X-20A will work. I think it can but it takes a loooot of thinner. Only thing that did work for me is the Real Color thinner, and it still takes a lot. I pre thin in the jar. With Tamiya and Hobby Aqueous filling the jar near the top with thinner is sufficient. Real Color needs that and then some. Also avoid trying to clean out an airbrush with water after using it. It just gunks up. Again, their thinner works best out of what I have to clean through. Real Color paint seems to be very thick. A jar I pre thinned is still very goopy and trying to transfer it via pipette is a bit of a struggle since it either doesn't suck it up well or doesn't squirt it back out again. It does give good coverage and dries almost instantly, and most of their colours seem accurate, but it's a bit of a pain in the thinning front. Wasn't until they released their air line up that they actually mentioned thinning ratios. But yeah. Try their thinner or a lacquer thinner. Just be aware of the smell of you spray it. Gaz
  11. I found an ancient bottle of NATO green that seems to match this newer bottle, plus another bottle I just got, all of which have this darker tone. Yet when you see pictures of other modellers using the NATO green, it comes out brighter. Oddly, MIG Ammo did a tutorial on the NATO scheme, but the NATO green in their images is miles brighter than their actual paint, which is an extremely dark green. I even contacted them about this, but they said the two colours should be the same. The Mission Models stuff looks accurate, but then you see other pictures and it doesn't. Gah, why are U.S. colours so difficult to get correct. Gaz
  12. Funny thing is, I went looking back through old pots of NATO green to see if I can find one with some left in it. I stumbled across my original pot, from before they started applying the warning stickers to the caps. It was the same shade as this darker one, while all the pots in between seemed to be a lighter shade. Most vehicles I painted NATO green I never really noticed because I didn't often put a strong coat on. I only recently started doing that, resulting in the brighter green look. So I'm kinda hoping this is just something that happens with a batch now and then, rather than permanent, because the newer pot I opened was an almost greyish tinted green, and noticeably so. Gaz
  13. Has anyone ever experienced a pot of Tamiya colour coming out slightly different to a previous pot of the same colour? I've been painting a truck with NATO green and switched over to a brand new pot. The moment I opened it I thought it looked darker, and as it turned out it was noticeably darker by comparison. I ended up putting some of it into the pot I'd just finished to see if it would mix a little, and it seemed to do the trick to an extent, but I have never had this happen with Tamiya paint before. It almost looked like it was Olive Green and had been mislabeled. I dunno if its just a one off, or Tamiya has done what other manufacturers seem to do and made their NATO green a darker shade (out of all those I have tried, Tamiya's brighter green was the closest look). Gaz
  14. GazB

    The Real Color Debacle

    I recently tried adding some of the AK thinner to the bottles I had thinned with the X-20A. Previously, it did start to spray a little with the X-20A, but it needed a LOT. However, I saw one of their videos where they were mixing the two thinners together with pre-thinned paints, so it is somewhat compatible. I still pre-thin with their thinner, but often add a few more drops to the cup after to get it spraying properly. Gaz
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