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About GazB

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  • Birthday 05/28/1990

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  1. Just over 4 years later I decided to revisit this model and give it a repaint. A remaster of sorts, since that's an in thing these days Applied some of the techniques I've learned, and this was almost entirely airbrushed. Originally it was sprayed with cans. Given that Tamiya rattle can colours aren't always in pot form, I had to improvise a bit for the colours. Luckily I had a MiG Ammo USN aircraft colour set that included a light grey perfect for the forward section. The blue tone was easy enough to mix up, and Tamiya yellow was spot on for the appropriate parts. The rest was shot over with Medium Grey. Give it a wash, though had to be careful. I swapped the base for that of the unused X-wing one, and was going to link the three together when the enamel wash ate into the connectors and caused them to snap. Whole thing nearly went on the floor Anywho without further ado, here's the finished article. Nifty thing about the Bandai kits is being able to more or less take them apart again to ease the repaint. Gaz
  2. I will note, oddly, that both Tamiya and RC paint have this occasional tendency to go from being matt to satin. I painted one model truck in the same colour, and it came out dead flat. I painted two others with the same bottle and it came out satin Oo Gaz
  3. Apologies for the delayed response. Didn't receive the notifications like I set it to >< I have managed to crack the problem, for the most part. As an experiment I got two bottles of the same colour, then topped one up with thinner. The thinner I use for RC is the RC thinner, so its the correct one. I still use a pipette, however I now have a cup with a small amount of RC thinner in the bottom, which helps flush the pipette (water just gummed the stuff up). The paint sprays fairly well from my 0.4mm, and did start to spray okay from the 0.2mm (however the crown cap seems inherently prone to a gummy build up of not only RC but also Tamiya paint and is a pain to clean off while working). As far as I can tell, RC requires enough thinner to almost top the bottle, and then maybe a few more drops in the cup. Once the level drops, it can be topped a little again and that basically thins the bottle sufficiently for airbrushing. I've done this with Tamiya for the past few years and have had no problems. Same with Gunze Sangyo using Ultimate's Thinner. No issues, and also increases the amount of available paint in the jar. I've tried to transfer paint with a brush before, but it seems rather inefficient and takes ages to transfer enough over. Also thinning in the bottle ensures I always have the same mixture going into my cup Thanks for the input Duncan, Colin, bmw and Steve Gaz
  4. Hmm, I'll see f I can give it a check Okie doke, will do. Thanks for the pointers, guys Gaz Hmm, I'll see f I can give it a check Okie doke, will do. Thanks for the pointers, guys Update: I've discovered a few issues. In the new 0.2mm airbrush, the paint is either drying or collecting on the needle tip or crown cap almost immediately. The paint also seems to be thickening as its sitting in the cup. So the stuff at the top of the amount is denser than that at the bottom. Also had the problem of flushing the RC paint pipette with water instantly (and I mean instantly) solidifying it, clogging the pipette. Had to use a brush to transfer it in the end, which is a pain. Also had to put more drops of thinner in, with varied results. In the dunkelgelb colour I'm spraying, it worked fairly well. But when I put these extra drops into a brown colour, sworked well and then speckling. In the end I switched back to my 0.4mm single action airbrush and more or less managed to go over all of the colours without issue. In fact in this instance, the Tamiya NATO Black I was using was causing more problems, and oddly drying with a satin sheen O_O One of the RC colours did that recently as well. Dead flat on one pieces, satin on another. Its extremely confusing to say the least the lack of consistency. I still don't get how anyone is supposed to prevent tip drying when the paint is probably thinner than it should be. Gaz
  5. I only had to add two more drops for it to start getting thin enough to start pooling, and then there's the problem of the paint within the airbrush then being a different consistency prone to changing in the middle of a spray. But even when thinned, it still had a speckled overspray, even close up. There was also the bizarre case of the test shots on my turntable surface seeming fine, but as soon as I raised the airbrush up to paint the model, paint refused to exit despite holding it at the same angle. It took a lot of work to get it moving
  6. Yep. There was a bit left following a clean up and it sprayed fine. Gaz
  7. Hi dnl42, I always top up my Tamiya and Gunze bottles with thinner upon opening. It thins both of them nicely for airbrushing, with exception of something like white and keeps the consistency even for the whole jar.. However with the Real Color paint the process has only really worked well on one bottle as it would with Tamiya/Gunze in another bottle the results were passable, but in another, it ended up in either speckling or flooding, both of which rendered my attempts at a tight, clean camouflage pattern moot. There seems to be consistency differences. I should also note one of the same colours oddly gave a matt finish at one point and a satin on another, both sprayed over an XF-1 base. When I tried thinning by applying it to the cup and mixing it, again the results were inconsistent, in large part due to the plant's tendency to stick to the pipette. Gaz
  8. Hi, Ratch. I have a three mode mini compressor. I use it on the lowest setting but can't tailor it specifically I'm afraid. Gaz
  9. Hi all. So I got a new airbrush, a relatively cheap 0.2mm one from Scalemodelshop. I wanted to use it to apply the camouflage to a 1/72 tank. However, despite having somewhat cracked a thinning ratio for Real Color paint (basically top up the bottle with thinner), it seems some of their colours still aren't thin enough. When I tried to spray, it speckled like crazy, almost like Tamiya White normally does. But when I thinned further, it retained the speckling but was more prone to flooding. I tried adjusting the screw like I used to on another airbrush to apply some post shading or highlighting with Tamiya colours, but I can't seem to get the knack for it. I really wonder how people do those crazy thin lines on the German aircraft night camo. No matter which why I approach the paint, its either too thick or too thin. No apparent middle ground. I still wasn't able to find the exact required thinning ratio of Real Color either, other than a suggestion of 2:1 paint to thinner. Any pointers would be appreciated. I keep looking forward to painting, but its starting to get laborious at times Gaz
  10. Ah so its not going to be a perfect fit. Hmm. Perhaps I can scratch a little filling if needed. Thanks for the response, Maverick Gaz
  11. Oh, sorry. Its the curvy part behind the headlight fixture, that sits above the front wheels. Whichever way I try to position them, they wouldn't sit flush for some reason. The instructions also showed them as having a 1mm wide bar between the two pieces, yet that's not how they were on the sprue Gaz
  12. Very nice work. I just got one of these, and I'm completely thrown by how the front wheel housings are meant to fit under the engine/cab. I can't seem to place them in any way that seems correct. Thanks in advance for any advice Gaz
  13. Thanks for the info, dnl, much appreciated Gaz
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