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About GazB

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  • Birthday 05/28/1990

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  1. I just received the Meng T-72B1 today, and thought I'd start with the tracks on account of the supplied jig. Thought it'd be an easy experience. Speedy-ish, but my word the system really doesn't work. The instructions failed to explain there are two types of track links, one with holes on the left, one with holes on the right. Since these are indistinguishable from a glance, they were accidentally mixed and matched. But even when the same parts were connected, the little bolt on the opposing side was often missing, so nothing clipped together. The pins weren't long enough (same pro
  2. Thought I'd throw my hat in the ring. Having just gotten a Miniart T-55A Mod. 1981, I'd say get a Takom. My reasoning is...the Miniart build has been a frustrating chore I get they go for detailed builds (its the non-interior variant), but a lot of it is unnecessarily complicated. Multi-part construction for things that could be one or two pieces. Part fit wavers from okay to bad. Locating pins are so shallow they might not exist, and there's significant gaps between components. In about 5 days of work I've only got the hull partially built. The suspension
  3. Just over 4 years later I decided to revisit this model and give it a repaint. A remaster of sorts, since that's an in thing these days Applied some of the techniques I've learned, and this was almost entirely airbrushed. Originally it was sprayed with cans. Given that Tamiya rattle can colours aren't always in pot form, I had to improvise a bit for the colours. Luckily I had a MiG Ammo USN aircraft colour set that included a light grey perfect for the forward section. The blue tone was easy enough to mix up, and Tamiya yellow was spot on for the appropriate parts. The rest was sh
  4. I will note, oddly, that both Tamiya and RC paint have this occasional tendency to go from being matt to satin. I painted one model truck in the same colour, and it came out dead flat. I painted two others with the same bottle and it came out satin Oo Gaz
  5. Apologies for the delayed response. Didn't receive the notifications like I set it to >< I have managed to crack the problem, for the most part. As an experiment I got two bottles of the same colour, then topped one up with thinner. The thinner I use for RC is the RC thinner, so its the correct one. I still use a pipette, however I now have a cup with a small amount of RC thinner in the bottom, which helps flush the pipette (water just gummed the stuff up). The paint sprays fairly well from my 0.4mm, and did start to spray okay from the 0.2mm (however the crown cap seems inhe
  6. Hmm, I'll see f I can give it a check Okie doke, will do. Thanks for the pointers, guys Gaz Hmm, I'll see f I can give it a check Okie doke, will do. Thanks for the pointers, guys Update: I've discovered a few issues. In the new 0.2mm airbrush, the paint is either drying or collecting on the needle tip or crown cap almost immediately. The paint also seems to be thickening as its sitting in the cup. So the stuff at the top of the amount is denser than that at the bottom. Also had the problem of flushing the RC paint pipette with water instantly (and
  7. I only had to add two more drops for it to start getting thin enough to start pooling, and then there's the problem of the paint within the airbrush then being a different consistency prone to changing in the middle of a spray. But even when thinned, it still had a speckled overspray, even close up. There was also the bizarre case of the test shots on my turntable surface seeming fine, but as soon as I raised the airbrush up to paint the model, paint refused to exit despite holding it at the same angle. It took a lot of work to get it moving
  8. Yep. There was a bit left following a clean up and it sprayed fine. Gaz
  9. Hi dnl42, I always top up my Tamiya and Gunze bottles with thinner upon opening. It thins both of them nicely for airbrushing, with exception of something like white and keeps the consistency even for the whole jar.. However with the Real Color paint the process has only really worked well on one bottle as it would with Tamiya/Gunze in another bottle the results were passable, but in another, it ended up in either speckling or flooding, both of which rendered my attempts at a tight, clean camouflage pattern moot. There seems to be consistency differences. I should also
  10. Hi, Ratch. I have a three mode mini compressor. I use it on the lowest setting but can't tailor it specifically I'm afraid. Gaz
  11. Hi all. So I got a new airbrush, a relatively cheap 0.2mm one from Scalemodelshop. I wanted to use it to apply the camouflage to a 1/72 tank. However, despite having somewhat cracked a thinning ratio for Real Color paint (basically top up the bottle with thinner), it seems some of their colours still aren't thin enough. When I tried to spray, it speckled like crazy, almost like Tamiya White normally does. But when I thinned further, it retained the speckling but was more prone to flooding. I tried adjusting the screw like I used to on another airbrush to apply some post
  12. Ah so its not going to be a perfect fit. Hmm. Perhaps I can scratch a little filling if needed. Thanks for the response, Maverick Gaz
  13. Oh, sorry. Its the curvy part behind the headlight fixture, that sits above the front wheels. Whichever way I try to position them, they wouldn't sit flush for some reason. The instructions also showed them as having a 1mm wide bar between the two pieces, yet that's not how they were on the sprue Gaz
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