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About Andrew

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  • Birthday 08/16/1970

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  1. Good observation! I agree and work hard to 'equalise' the rendering of detail on my models, or at least minimise the obviousness of my poorly handled details! Lovely progress by the way...
  2. Absolutely! Eduard was clever to offer the modeller the choice of installation options, but I can see why you'd adopt that approach - the seams are just too apparent.
  3. Thanks so much for this explanation, David. You'd shown pics of the Eduard wheels in an earlier update and I was wondering how they would attach; I thought it unlikely that the Eduard pieces could co-exist with the moulded wheel/brake housing elements. I also need to dig out the Airfix Model World build you mention... Andrew.
  4. The figure rattling around in my head for that shortened, centreline-only tank is 242 gal, which converts very neatly to 1100 litres. Ray W, your progress on this kits is a joy to behold. As for the right olive drab, Tamiya's XF-62 looks to be a good choice... ?
  5. What Kinetic has provided looks fine for the 110 gallon (550 l) supersonic tanks used on the IIIO. They are a thin-looking tank (as befits the 'supersonic' claim I guess) and much slimmer than the 1300 litre tank also used by the IIIO. There's no 600 litre tank used by Mirages that I'm aware of. Oh, Ray speaks the truth about elevons, but forgot to mention that the inboard surfaces (i.e. those closest to the fuselage) are known as pitch dampers.
  6. I think that Chris was referring to the small elliptical vent moulded on that insert; the vent should be oriented to the lower right corner, as Chris has done. Having built one or two of these kits, I also remember having to apply some filler to that panel. Here's a photo of an F-4E nose from Graeme Molineux's walkarounds site, showing the vent roughly in the middle of the image. You can even make out a panel line that corresponds with Hasegawa's insert:
  7. Great start @zegeye! I like your extra work in the wheelwell and look forward to more of your progress. Andrew.
  8. Hi Chris, Nice choice of subject and I look forward to seeing your progress. Good luck!
  9. Great post as usual Stefano and thanks for taking the time to illustrate your process for achieving a satisfactory colour outcome (which you most certainly have!). I admire your dedication as well; it wouldn't have been easy to repaint the upper colours.
  10. If you're limited to using paints from Tamiya's X/XF range, then I'd recommend adding some XF-55 Deck Tan to the XF-20/white mix as suggested by Pete - perhaps up to equal measure with the other two paints. To my eye, Light Gull Grey is a pale, brownish grey and it needs that extra brown/yellow tint. For what it's worth, here are two other mixes using Tamiya paints (collected a long time ago from sources now forgotten, apologies for the lack of attribution): 36440 Light Gull Grey (link goes to the Colorserver rendition) *Mix 1 -- XF-19:1 + XF-80:1 + XF-2:2 *Mi
  11. Thanks for mentioning this, David - I'll be looking out for it when I finally resume work on mine. I'm just about at the point in the project where I will attach the windscreen and it's very useful to be prepared for interference with the coaming.
  12. I'm always impressed by folks who attempt work like this so late in the piece and then go on to make it look as though it was always thus... we all have faith in you Stefano!
  13. Hi Stefano, I'm not surprised that you had considered the oil cooler for the Mk. XII - I just wanted to make sure. Good luck with the re-worked rudder and I look forward to another project thread of yours!
  14. Sorry if I've missed reference to it elsewhere, but there might be another consideration - I think that the XII had the underwing oil cooler (a la Mk V) and therefore did not have the symmetrical radiators of the XV or 17...
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