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Matt B

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About Matt B

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    Green Bay WI, USA

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  1. I've hit bit of a mental block with my HK B-17 after completing the cockpit so to help bust through it I decided to work on something smaller and less labor intensive so I decided to snag one of Tamiya's excellent P-38 kits. Hopefully working on more of a straightforward project will prevent me from taking the long breaks on the B-17 I've taken so far. Shot a quick coat of black stynlrez primer so I can get going on the wheel wells while I wait (possibly for awhile) on a few other bits and supplies to arrive in the mail. I'll be adding an Ultracast seat w/ harness and a few bit
  2. Humming right along, the rear cockpit bulkhead is done. Since the upper turret will render this area pretty much invisible when everything is closed up I decided to forgo adding more detail like a couple wire bundles leaving the fuse panel and adding the leather "scuff pad" and fuel selectors beneath the door. Everything is stock except the fuse panel which is an Eduard piece and the decals on the door are from KitsWorld's stencil sheet. Note, the oxygen bottles are not done yet and haven't been weathered yet so they're a little bright right now.
  3. Attempted my first go around at painting the wood floor. I used the same technique @woody37 used on his build with a base color of Tamiya XF-59 followed with a gloss coat and then dragging burnt umber and yellow ochre oils across it. Didn’t turn out half bad.
  4. I've spent the last couple nights pulling my hair out playing with photoetch and finishing up the center control pedestal. Lighting isn’t the best and I don't have a good photo set up actually set up for the moment so these phone pics will have to do for now. I'll take better ones later. All that's left in the cockpit is to finish painting the floors, add a few more wires to the sidewalls and finish painting the rear bulkhead. These up close photos exaggerate the imperfections a bit but I really like the way it turned out.
  5. Pilot/copilot seats are done. Can't really tell in this light but in my haste to get them done I forgot to go over with a q-tip dipped in mineral spirits to tone down the oil wash before I applied the flat coat so it looks a little exaggerated in the right light, but it shouldn't be noticed when the fuselage is closed up. Base color is MRP acrylic dark dull green and a custom mix of vallejo yellow for the cushions. Finished off with Eduard belts and a burnt umber oil wash. The lettering is from a KitsWorld stencil sheet. Next step is to finish detailing and paint the center throttle quadr
  6. Been a few months since I've worked on this but that's because work continued to stay busy plus fall is my favorite season so other things like fishing, hiking and photography took precedence. And until this past week we've had a rather mild winter in the midwest of the US without any snow in my area until last weekend so I was enjoying the weather while I could. With that said, I'm starting to dig into this again and hoping to get a bit done this winter. When I left off I had just completed painting and assembling the wheel wells and beginning to get paint on the ammo boxes and
  7. Last (small) update for the weekend. I cut out the correct dual vent for the wingtip tokyo tanks. The kit comes with a single one towards the rear of the wing which I filled in. The dual vents seemed to be more common and every picture I could find of Douglas block 25 birds that showed the wing tips showed the dual vents. I still have some final shaping to do to get the correct "slope" but I like how it turned out. I'll get out of doing it to the other wing by creating battle damage in that area. I found a really good photo of a mangled wingtip that I want to recreate when I make the dam
  8. I agree with the others who say this is one of the best weathering jobs on a Fort. Very realistic for a war weary bird. What’s your method for the aerials?
  9. A little more work today. The front bulkhead is pretty much complete and ready for paint with the addition of the oxygen hose which was made by wrapping 0.25 mm copper wire around 0.50 copper wire. Tedious but worth it. The only thing left in the nose is the seats and another oxygen hose. In the cockpit, I fitted the control columns, "pushed" them forward since the elevators will be dropped and made the canvas boots out of superfine milliput. Not the cleanest of jobs but with a little more file work and paint it should be fine. Next will be to scratch the yokes. The kits yokes were simp
  10. So I'll take this time to continue research, which quite honestly, is my favorite part of this build. The good thing about modeling a plane from the 91st BG is that the group was well documented. Two books I've found particularly interesting and helpful are Plane Names and Fancy Noses and The Ragged Irregulars of Bassingbourn. The first is an alphabetical list of every known named plane in the group and a brief history of each while the second is a chronological history of the group from its formation in the US through the end of the war. The cool thing about the second book is that at the
  11. I continue to inch closer to paint in the nose/cockpit but ran into a small issue....the issue of me apparently not trusting the caution on the Chopper. Since I'm left handed I'll need to take a break for a couple days and let this heal and then get back to finishing the details in this section.
  12. One of the positives of being a slow builder is being able to see stuff like this and try to incorporate some of your excellent finishing ideas. I’ll be happy if mine comes out even half as good!
  13. Here's a little better view. I don't think anything was accessible from the inside but they could at least see the inner workings. The above photo appears to show the panel farthest to the right was covered with plywood to support the cheek gun ammo boxes. The photo below was likely taken from a late F or early G before cheek guns were factory fitted, accounting for the lack of ammo boxes. Good call on the seats. I've been too busy scrounging around my spares bin from all the detail sets I've acquired over the years that I forgot to even look at the kit parts. Cutting them and replacing
  14. Small update. I've continued work in the nose section. The perspex cover for the chin turret opening was cut out of .020 clear styrene and fitted. I also added the main terminal box and azimuth motor from a piece I borrowed from the ball turret and some styrene rod. Not perfect, but since the nose cone is pretty clear, I just wanted a "busy" look and dry fitting shows I got what I was wanting. Theonly mistake I made was scribing the X in the panel. The bracing on the real thing was on the bottom and I wanted to scribe the panel lines so I'm able to accurately locate the legs for the seat
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