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  1. Past hour
  2. 911 GT1

    Your getting to the finishing line much quicker than I, but your not quite there yet so I might still be able to catch up! All being well I should be able to spray the top coats today.
  3. Silver/metal paint for a DeLorean

    All the ones I worked on had a flat silver look to them. Even when polished. Nothing at all like a NMF airplane. I would use whatever most people use for that RAF 50's high speed silver. And don't forget the light grey crumple zones on the back and front, I used dark ghost gray for that. And if you wanted something different, there where three painted Deloreans done up here in the US after they arrived State side by the dealers Yellow Red Black the black car was repainted blue by its new owner
  4. One of my Northrop F-5E Tiger II profiles

    There is a nice sample in Penang Sub's museum which and Capt went last time.
  5. Silver/metal paint for a DeLorean

    You might try Vallejo Metalic Steel 77.712 Lou in Utah
  6. Tiger 1 of Das Reich

    Absolutely stunning Tobby, your Tiger's weathering is skilfully executed. The rust on the exhausts is very realistic and the diorama is very good too.
  7. The Japanese take quite a pasting for the almost unbelievable levels of flammability they found acceptable in large bombers and transport aircraft, but it must be said, they yielded to pretty much no one when it came to defensive armament. The tail gunner on the EMILY was lucky; on a BETTY, the waist gunners had to manually position their cannon and brace it against their shoulders. Ow.
  8. True enough! NASM is one of my all-time favorite haunts...and I've actually been 'visiting' their SPAD since it was a frayed and tattered pre-restoration hulk at Silver Hill back in the day. Their many fine displays were a major inspiration for this base.
  9. What have you purchased 9

    Stag party?
  10. This is absolutely incredible! Nice job! It's looking like something you'd see on a construction site!!
  11. Thanks Simon - the first part of your statement has a great bearing on the second; it's much easier to paint well-moulded figures than amorphous blobs and these figures are exceptionally well done. I was very pleased to see that Hasegawa appear to be about to release the figures as a stand-alone set in January, if so they would be a great addition for those of us who would habitually use crew figures if only they were provided... Thanks Ced. It's a massive cannon, he must have felt like a god. Thanks very much Jaime, it's been an easy and pleasant build so far and I'm pleased with the progress. I did a certain amount of mojo-gathering and loin-girding and came up with these: Top is the two halves of the tail turret, bottom left the nose glazing and bottom right the dorsal turret transparency. The masks provided by Hasegawa are very high quality and were a pleasure to use - as far as pleasure is a relevant term when masking canopies, anyway I also got the side-blister gun positions done; the left will be closed up: ... and the right, which will have the gunner figure, open and ready for action: That's most of the main glazing pieces now, all that's left are little individual windows, apart from this big greenhouse that sits on the cockpit: I hope I can muster the energy to do that tonight. After that I'll be installng the waist and dorsal gunners and joining the fuselage halves. In other news, one day after fitting the tail-gun position to the fuselage I have broken the cannon barrel Re-arrange the words "happen an accident to waiting". I think I might cut the remaining barrels off at an appropriate junction and re-attach them at the end... Cheers, Stew
  12. Easy 8

    Thanks for the info man, pretty sure the instructions said it was white, but ill take a second look at them and make the appropriate changes. i haven't done a whole lot of American armor so this type of info is much appreciated. W/ the cupola and tools, etc. I still have a list of smaller details that need to be fixed like previously listed. Mark
  13. Easy 8

    Not bad at all. You have a grasp as to where the dirt would be either from use weather or crew traffic. A couple of things if I may. The wartime Olive Drab paint was extremely tough and resilient to wear and chipping. You would never see bare metal exposed unless done so by extreme force, i.e. a shell hit. Even bullets didn't mar the paint much. The area you have painted white on the barrel was actually bare metal. That is the recoil area of the barrel and had to remain unpainted due to close tolerances between the barrel and the mantlet. Don't forget to paint the glass prisms in the TC's cupola. Clear blue will look great. Make sure they remain glossy. Overall a good effort! G
  14. Today
  15. Martin JM-1P Marauder info sought

    Larry would they have used the RB-26 camera set up to make it an easy conversion: http://www.avialogs.com/index.php/aircraft/usa/martin/b-26marauder/t-o-01-35ea-1-rb-26-26a-and-b-26b-airplanes-pilot-s-flight-operating-instructions.html rather than spend the time, effort and money to design their own? Of course they could have just used the "waist" windows as the camera ports. Jari
  16. don't know if this may come handy to someone, another tip: as a source for metal sheets i'm using Mayonnaise tube. I like Mayonnaise so i get the double good that one one side i eat a lot of it and on the other side when i empty a tube i can cut it, clean it and have another supply of metal. by the way a tube on my compressor just popped open, so i think i'm gonna make all the surface controls using metal while i find a way to get a spare part and fix it.
  17. 911 GT1

    Decals finished... Ian.
  18. MFH Where to buy Canada/USA?

    Thanks everyone!
  19. What have you purchased 9

    America began its Black Friday Black Mass to consumer culture this evening, and so, fortified by a discount, I ordered the Airfix Victor, an Airfix Lancaster, some paint masks for the latter, and decals for the delightful Nick the Nazi Neutralizer of 463 Squadron RAAF.
  20. FOUR culture's sake (or, here we go again!)

    and the spotted dicks
  21. Be gentle it was just a practice effort :)

    A readd of the linked Ducimus guide will show there were a series of camouflage and markings changes, especially in 1940. It is complex if you wish to be as accurate as possible, and there are many thread here to prove this. It'soften better to pick a specfic subject, and do that, but in the cae of the BoB photos are quite rare, due to security, photography being banned on opertional bases. It is possible to go down the rabbit hole on research, I like pinning down details myself, and where to find it. Yellow is a right sod, you will probably need to put on some white first. The tips were a standard 4 inch on RAF types. The red handle is the diagonal line on the door. Macro lenses are right sods for showing up 'flaws' that are in reality nearly invisible, one negative of the modern camera, but handy for checking. A really useful resource is @Etiennedup flickr of ww2 colour, here are the Spitfire images https://www.flickr.com/search/?w=8270787@N07&q=spitfire here's a shot you may find interesting, note the crowbar look to be bare metal here, but grey-green, dark green and black have been seen as well. Spitfire by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr One more you may find interesting given the ATA pic above Civvie Spitfire PR,XI 1948. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr on the subject, I don't if it's widely apprecaited that the Soviet Union had combat units staffed entirely by women during WW2, this is a 1993 Timewatch documentary on the battle of Kursk has some interview, the lady shown was a tank driver after 13.25 there is an interview with vetran pilot, Tamara Pamyatnikh, which has some interesting insights. Posting these as this does tend to be a very male environment, and I hope some examples above help redress the balance. The whole documentary is worth watching if you have time. If you do the Lynx and ask question here you will probably get answers from ex-service personel who worked on them. Cheers T
  22. I couldn't resist! SR-71A Blackbird

    Looking great! am a bit late on this - but the below article, while quite light, has some good facts and trivia in it on the SR-71 - including details on the metallic tires and so on.... which I think someone mentioned earlier. https://www.airspacemag.com/military-aviation/the-real-x-jet-12377380/
  23. Yes I agree the set up is designed to be subject specific. I look forward to more windmills...
  24. Israeli Mirage IIICJ with long Tzniut recce nose

    It was quite common to see the jet with a supersonic centerline tank.
  25. USMC Recce pair (and their mate!)

    Great progress so far! Those driver's compartment interiors are really coming together. Unfortunately, I cannot remember where the radios were in the -M and TOW - sorry. The years haven't been too kind to my memory for those details. Here are some more drawings from the technical manual with some details for the interior. Here is the Annunciator Panel, it is pretty obvious when looking into the compartment through the top hatch. It replaces the idiot lights found on car dashboards. It also had an incredibly annoyingly loud alarm when anything was awry. The body (dark area in the drawing) is OD Green and the light area was white. The lights (items the numbers point to) were red LED's. 32 - Annunciator Panel by semperfi_0313, on Flickr Here is some info on the driver's seat., they were the same in all the vehicles, but I cannot remember what the VC seat in the -M and TOW looked like. They were probably more like the -25 turret seats which had fixed back rests and hinged seats. The seat was on a spring and could rise and fall, the seat bottom could drop down so that it was out of the way when standing in the hatch. The VC in the -M & TOW would spend most of their time standing in the hatch, so having the seat out of the way would be very helpful. The driver's hatch seat was pneumatically raised and lowered with a switch on the drive selector pedestal. The back was hinged to lay down to enable access to the emergency escape hatch on the left side between the driver's compartment and the turret. The seat was surprisingly comfortable for sleeping when the back was laid flat, especially if you put a case of MRE's under the back - it raised the back just enough to keep your head slightly above your waist. 33 - Driver's Seat - 01 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr 34 - Driver's Seat - 02 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr The two pedestals on the left of the steering wheel have the controls for the driver's seat height, drive selector (4 wheel or 8 wheel drive), hand throttle, the gear selector and the transfer case gear lock. The seat height and drive selector are rotating switches that rotate from the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock positions. The hand throttle is a twist operated knob used to adjust the engine idle speed when the engine is running, but the vehicle is not moving. The gear selector is like that found on a car with an automatic transmission. The transfer case gear lock, when engaged, inserted a metal rod between the teeth of the main gears in the transfer case - it was basically a mechanical parking brake. 38 - Drive Selector by semperfi_0313, on Flickr 39 - Transfer Case Gear Lock by semperfi_0313, on Flickr The pneumatic system is self filling via an air compressor in the engine compartment and stores the compressed air in the bottles on the wall to the very left of the driver's compartment. The system takes about 5-10 minutes to fill after starting the engine. The system controlled most of the operating features of the vehicle - trim vane, marine drive propellers, parking brake and driver's seat height. The bottles are connected and store quite a lot of air when full. There is a drain valve on the bottom of the rear bottle, we were supposed to drain the bottles every day so that the condensation that found it's way into the bottle could drain and not rust through the wall of the bottle. I had a bottle rupture once due to not being drained enough - it scared the complete crap out of me. It sounded like a gunshot in the hatch and hissed very loudly as the air leaked out for about 5 minutes. Once the bottles were empty, the parking brake engaged and the vehicle was disabled until maintenance installed a new bottle. The replacement bottle was primer red and contrasted nicely with the other two seafoam green bottles. 35 - Air Bottles by semperfi_0313, on Flickr Another particularly obvious item in the compartment is the driver's night vision periscope. The center of the three periscopes was removable and could be switched out with a night vision periscope. The scope was rested on the left transom when not used. It was secured with a black rubber strap. The scope was electrically powered via a receptacle on the forward edge of the instrument panel. The scope was typical of night vision during the gulf war. It magnified starlight or the IR lamp on the headlight assembly on the front of the vehicle. The scope - we called it a "fish bowl", was a little tricky to use as the green light made it very difficult to judge depth so it was a little like driving by braille. It also hung down quite a bit and reduced the clear space above the steering wheel which let to sore knuckles from smacking it when you turned. The scope also rotated about 25 degrees to the left and right to aid cornering. The top of the scope - the 2 cubes and the angled mirror assembly were NATO green to match the exterior camo paint and the body was white. The plastic cover was bright orange. 36 - Night Vision Periscope - 01 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr 37 - Night Vision Periscope - 02 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr That is probably enough for tonight. Next up will be the steering wheel and the controls mounted to the steering column. If you want anything in particular first, let me know. Arrin
  26. The trouble is there is no rfi for mixed genres and also it would be like closing the stable door after the horse has bolted.
  27. Thanks P! It's just like scratchbuilt without the hassle of moulding my own bits! Many thanks John! I'm flattered Jaime! I don't think it's quite that good, but I am very happy with how it's all come together. One of my favourite builds, certainly! Today I started on the final touches. Cleaning up the wings where the rigging left marks was worrying me a little, but some careful sanding, a little PPP, and a fine paintbrush have left little to no trace of the marks. A final dusting with pastels and a gloss coat should hide it all very nicely. The prop hub got painted, and then I started on the tail. First off I added the skid, which I'd made up previously, then it was time to try to attach the stabiliser. That was not much fun, trying to get the brass rod bent to the right angles and cut to the right lengths at the same time took a while - I couldn't use the drawings as they aren't very accurate in that area. Eventually after a lot of trial and error I bit the bullet, put some CA on the ends of the struts and went for it. I think it's about as straight as I could possibly get it so I'm happy with that! The bracing wires were next and that went ok until I cut the wrong one when trimming the ends..so after a few choice expletives, I redrilled the hole on one side of the horizontal stabiliser, being careful not to dislodge the wire coming up from the underside (I'd deliberately done it with one run from bottom to top).....and replaced the upper wire. Job done, rudder attached. All that's needed now is some touching up on the black paint. One last "major" task to go...the wingtip floats. I need to finish the wings first so I'll prepare the float mounts, then finish the wings. They'll need to dry before the floats can be fitted, but we're definitely on the home stretch now! Thanks for looking in! Ian
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