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David M

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About David M

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  1. Odd...worked fine to my POB in Oz.
  2. The LukGraph site includes Australia in the delivery destinations pull down menu at checkout when I tried it...and seemed happy to take the PayPal for both the kit and delivery (10 Euro).
  3. Has anyone got a Heller 1/24 Trefle and a digital caliper handy? I need to check the vertical dimension of the front axle beam. Had a brain fade and started cutting mine down to make an "I" beam...without measuring said dimension. Must be getting old!
  4. I have been backing up to two external HDs on a weekly basis - or sooner if I have been busy - for years, alternating them so that the maximum loss is a week's worth. My software allows selection of what needs backing up and can be set to only back up "new" stuff added since the last time the HD was used. Quick, simple and hopefully (given my lack of tech skills) foolproof.
  5. For what it is worth, CAC Mustangs built for the RAAF had filled wings up until A68-120; thereafter the wing filling was deleted and A68-121 to A68-200 were delivered unfilled ex-factory. It should be remembered that the CAC airframes were built at a slow production rate post-war primarily to keep the skilled workforce intact. Hence they had a better fit and finish than those off the NAA wartime lines and thus less need for the filling and this may have contributed to the decision. There was a cost saving benefit - probably the main reason behind the decision - but it anticipated no material performance advantage. Either way, it is hard to pick out panel lines on these late production CAC Mustangs unless the images are both close and sharp.
  6. My bad, it is the UH-4 'Commuter'...and I am still looking for drawings or indeed reliable basic dimensions!
  7. Huge respect to hsr and HITC for producing such great models from Unicraft porridge. Lacking their determination and patience I think I will stick to my decision to scratchbuild a UH-4...surely it must be easier? A decent set of drawings would help...so far nothing from the Hiller Museum.
  8. Huge respect to hsr and HITC for pulling such good models out of the Unicraft porridge.

    Lacking that level of determination I think I will stick to my decision to scratch build...

  9. Thanks to you all for your feedback. There are photos on the net that appear to show the masters for the HU-4 and in light of your advice they don't fill me with much joy. I had hoped that the Unicraft kit would be a decent starting point and save a bit of time but it seems like the reverse would happen. I will run away from this kit and take a crack at scratch building one if I can find a set of drawings...hopefully the Hiller Museum will be able to assist. Incidentally the Hiller Museum is a cracker and well worth a visit. Again, thanks David M Sydney, Straya
  10. Not sure if this is the right place for it... Has anyone bought or (better yet) built one of these? If so...are they any good?
  11. Thanks Richard, I missed that set and it will at least be a good start. I suspect that I will need to sort out a custom set for the additional bits. Thankfully I got to crawl all over it recently and remembered to take lots of shots of the markings. Regards, David Sydney, Straya
  12. I have searched but have not found any decals for any of the fire spotter Broncos in 1/32... a couple in 1/48 but nothing in 1/32. In particular I would like to model N4150DF at Hollister in Cal Fire colours...any suggestions would be very welcome. David M Sydney, Straya
  13. Thanks guys, I tried the foil method without much success (probably too big to be manageable) and the Molotow also works but highlights every little imperfection at this scale...and I am not the tidiest of modellers. However, I have found a new trick and solved my dilemma...a while back I tried Hasegawa's Tritool film in Mirror Finish but could not get it to lay flat on the styrene sheet and gave up. I have been using their Light Gunmetal film on the disc brakes without problems and realized this morning that the imperfections were actually bubbles of air under the film. Pealing the film back a bit then gently pressing toward the lifted edge lets the air escape: perfect flat mirror surface...YAY! Very forgiving stuff and much easier to use than Bare Metal. Again, many thanks, David M Sydney, Straya
  14. I am doing a 1:6 bike and would appreciate any suggestions about what you are using to make mirrors; I need a pair and have the housings but cannot seem to find any mirror finish that has no grain/texture. Chrome Mylar was my go to in the past but no one locally seems to stock it. TIA David Sydney, Straya
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