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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/02/19 in all areas

  1. 37 points
    It's been some time since I last posted on here, mainly because my work computer has blocked BM so I can't while away my lunch hours and spare time perusing Britain's finest and as my evenings are full of modelling and other activities I haven't had much time to chirp in. But anyhoo I have managed to complete the odd kit and here is my latest. Having spent most of my career surrounded by Seakings, its an aircraft I have a lot of affection for. I love all the different marks (apart from crab yellow! ) and styles but as a kit its not one that thrills me to build. When I started this Airfix MK3 version I did intend to have 3 kits on the go at the same time (Another Airfix and a Revell), but that soon dropped away very easily! These new kits go together very easily but I just start to find it tiresome a lot easier than other kits. Maybe because I know the aircraft inside out and feel the need to add a lot of needless fine detail that cant really be seen. Any how I got myself the Xtradecal set #2 for Seakings which set me on the path to build a Mk1, 2 and 5 to go with my Mk4 and Belgian Seaking. I managed to get hold of 3 kits, 2 Airfix MK3s and a Revell German kit. I banked on the Revell version being a MK1 as they included a 5 blade TR and the old radome. But the Airfix kit has an old radome and the MK4 had the 5 bladed rotor so I stuck with that one for the Mk1. I have also found old decals for a Canadian version so that may eventually bump out the Mk5 as that one is a dull grey. (I have a thing for Navy Helos with those great big numbers plastered on them!) I then set about turning the MK3 into a Mk1, not that much of a difficult job. Obviously you have the 5 bladed TR, old radome, the blade roots need to be squared off, the strake isn't fitted and the reinforcing around the tail cone/fuselage area needs to be removed, rear windows filled and various aerials removed. I also boxed in the sponson areas. The internals were quite basic but I did throw in a couple of extra bits in the cockpit including handles on the inside of the windscreen which cant be seen very well lol! I had a disaster fitting the canopy, trying to get it to fit well I ended up cracking it on a skylight, luckily it isn't a standout problem. All the cooling grills were cut out, thinned down and had fine mesh applied. This caused problems for the area at the front of the rotor head, but nothing a bit of superglue and patience couldn't sort (I was lacking a lot of the latter however!). The doppler antennae and rad alt were removed from the underside along with other aerials, it is missing another aerial type but I couldn't determine what that was so have left it off (I was a mechanical grubber so only ever broke aerials and not fixed them!) and the aerial on the spine is not correct as ive only just noticed. An old style doppler aerial was fitted and I also cut out the sonar well with the intention of adding detail in there.....but bottled it! I folded the blades to save space, but I don't like the angle airfix set them, so had to cut them either side of the cuff and reattach them, I also had to fit tip socks on the side blades to pull them in more and look more proper. Just for added interest I added a spreader board, these were used onboard to hold the blades if the head lost hydraulic pressure and I tied up the side rotors. So here she is XV653, Seaking Mk 1 of 706 NAS circa 1977. Painted in Model Master Acrylics and just out of the foam wash shop! Edit - Just looking through some old documents including my flying log and I carried out a Track and Vibro check test flight as a flying maintainer on this airframe back in 2001 when she was a Mk6 on 810 NAS, spooky eh! Thanks for looking! Bob
  2. 36 points
    I have just finished this, the new Wellington from Airfix and what a joy to build. . It build OOB, i have only covered the side windows to march the ref. pictures that was found on the net. white is done by airbrush, green and grey with brush, all colors Humbrol. Clear and satin laquer from alclad by airbrush. Decals from the spare box. Polish Wellington Mk IC DV597 "T" during take-off in Dale, 2nd half of 1942. This a/c attacked U-boat on two occasions: piloted by F/O Figura on August9, 1942, and Sgt Golebiowski on October 9, 1942 Cheers Jes
  3. 21 points
    Hello! Here is my 1:72 Hispano-Aviación HA-1112-K1L which I built back in 1999. It represents C4J-10/“94-28”, of Escuela de Caza de Morón, Ejercito del Aire, in Spain, in 1950. It's the Italeri Bf 109G-6 kit with the Dekno resin and white metal conversion set. I recall the Italeri kit had some build issues on the wing roots and the resin nose differed a bit in width when compared to the Italeri fuselage so there was extra work involved blending the parts. The kit was fully painted by brush and only varnished with airbrush. Decals were from the conversion set. This is my favourite of the Spanish-modified Bf 109s. I like the profile more than that of the famous later "Buchón" variant. This variant has been released as a full kit by Amodel relatively recently. Thanks for looking and all comments are welcome Miguel
  4. 16 points
    Hi all, I thought you might like to see my 15th 1:32 scale build - The German ‘Hansa-Brandenburg W.29’, a twin float, two seat naval patrol aircraft. This model represents the Hansa-Bradenburg W.29 (CM3G version), No.2512 as flown by Oberleutnant Friedrich Christian Christiansen of ’Seeflugstation 1’, Zeebrugge, Belgium during July 1918. The basic list of changes/additions to the model are: Engine: Exhaust pipes. Spark plugs. Cylinder fuel primers. Push rods. Valve springs. Rocker arms. Ignition lead support tubes. Ignition leads. Rear coolant pipe. Crankcase vents. Speed control gear. Fuel filter pipes. Modified or corrected: ‘GasPatch’ Spandau and Parabellum machine guns. Gun installations. Cockpit control cable pulleys. Cockpit control line routing. Cockpit flying control lines. Pilot’s control wheel. Throttle quadrant. Rigging points. Radiator top pipe. Tachometer drive cable. Animation of control surfaces Aftermarket additions: ‘Gaspatch’ 1:32 scale Parabellum 14/17 machine gun (15-32069). ‘Gaspatch’ 1:32 scale ‘Spandau’ 08/15 machine guns (15-320619). ‘Aviattic’ Bleached Clear Doped Linen (ATT32044). ‘Aviattic’ German Naval Hex (faded) (ATT32113). ‘HGW Models’ fabric seat belts (132562). ‘GasPatch’ Elite Accessories Turnbuckles. ‘Copper State Models’ 1:32 scale German Naval Crew (F32-034). ‘Copper State Models’ 1:32 scale German Naval Ground Crew (F32-037). ‘Coastal Kits’ 1:32 scale Abandoned Airfield Display Base (modified for 3D effect). As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and photographs. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log. My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that models photo's page. For any photograph, just click the photo to enlarge or reduce the viewing size. http://igavh2.xara.hosting My next model will be the ‘Wingnut Wings’ Sopwith F1 Camel (modified version) of the Canadian ace William Barker. Mike
  5. 12 points
    - Special Hobby Flying Banana used by French army during Algerian war
  6. 12 points
    So here it is completed. For the WiP please tap here: A siesta due to too much Pernod:
  7. 12 points
    Another one bites the bench dust. This time the new Airfix Blenheim. Peach of a kit. Up to the usual standard of todays Airfix. One small gripe..... The rear turret is a work of art ...but ...why oh why did they not go the extra few feet and make a gun that looks like a gun. Decals are from Xtra decal. However I used the kits decals for the roundels...…….. they were fantastic, as good as after market ones. Well done Airfix. Anyway on to the pics. Please feel free to comment etc. Thanks for looking Dick
  8. 12 points
    Cheers Ced As the title now says AND THEN THERE WAS ONE! I am prepared to leave this here, nekkid as a jay bird Ish 'cept for the filler, paint and other folks input I present CH-53D of HMH362, the Ugly Angels Now then, where did I leave that pub... Oh yes, just down the road, catch ya laters
  9. 10 points
    My fellow modellers, good afternoon. I've starter this old Revell model (Note the price in Italian L'ira, so, bought before the Euro, and in my stash for a lot of time) in order to improve my skills in recreating a better seascape diorama. IMG_20190113_100952 by Franco Segato, su Flickr For this reason I've tryed a different approach from what I've used on my first attempt with the 1/700 Pearl Harbour Diorama. Instead of using the alluminium foil on a foam base, I modelled the foam using the wood stucco and creating the waves pattern. I've painted the whole base with black and blue, then I applied a coat of gel for the water transparency and finished with some cotton for the bow waves. The model was built OOB, I have just added some railrings remaining of my previous buildings. This the final result. Disclaimer: Be aware that the pictures were taken on my working bench on evening, with my phone camera. IMG_20190120_164240 by Franco Segato, su Flickr IMG_20190120_164320 by Franco Segato, su Flickr IMG_20190120_164251 by Franco Segato, su Flickr IMG_20190120_164307 by Franco Segato, su Flickr IMG_20190120_164320 by Franco Segato, su Flickr IMG_20190120_164430 by Franco Segato, su Flickr Thank you for watching, and any suggestion will be appreciated. Franco
  10. 9 points
    Hello, I present another model of the Polish light bomber "Łoś", this time in version B. The model is painting Romanian Air Forces from before 1941. After 1941, when Romania began to fight together with the Germans, signs changed on planes for crosses. On black background. With brother PZL 37A
  11. 8 points
    Hi New member here, this is my second model after a 20 year break. It is modeled after an aircraft from 332 (Norwegian) sq, flown by Alf Widerberg. Decals are from Vingtor, worked great. Built out of the box, added wine bottle foil seat-belts an IFF-aerials made of my wife's hair. Painted with Humbrol Enamels. I made a few errors, such as managing to get the wing walkway line over the upper wing roundels and the light mixed grey turned out almost as light as the medium sea grey, etc. Overall I'm still happy with it Constructive criticism is welcome. Isak
  12. 8 points
    Here's my GR-1A that I made from Revell's IDS kit. After market was Eduard PE, Seans wing seals and RAF pylons, Flightpath tanks and pods set and Xtradecal for both markings and stencils. My subject was ZA373 H from 2 squadron. Here's one or two of the shots I was using for reference... And after 9 months of grabbing whatever time I could at the weekends and evenings, here's the result... It's not perfect, but it's better than it would've been thanks to the contributions of some BMers who pointed out some noob mistakes on the WIP thread, so big thanks to all of them. Thanks for looking.
  13. 8 points
    Hello All, It's been a long time - Sweet's 1/144 P-51B/C modified to a RAF recon Mustang. Thanks for looking. Ian
  14. 8 points
    WIP: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235016491-soviet-heavy-metal-172-tu-22-modelsvit/ Should have chosen different background
  15. 8 points
    New Year Resolution complied with - my Walrus finished at last, not quite before the Hunter arrived but not long after. I got stuck last year on a couple of issues. The first was the finish - I started to get debris in the paint. I finally tracked that down to poor brush hygiene with Xtracolor paint. There was a quantity of paint still in the brush which remobilised every time I used it, giving 'hairs' of paint. I've since given it a really good clean and it's much better now although still not perfect. The other was the rigging. In 55+ years of modelling I've never rigged a biplane before and I finally decided on 8 gauge guitar wire following a tip on this forum. It's not perfect but shouldn't go slack with time. Ditto the finish - it is what it is and doesn't look too bad under a coat or three of matt varnish. It's from the box apart from Eduard harnesses, the rudder mast (curiously omitted by Airfix), and the window spray deflectors, fashioned from the trailing edges of the unused flap parts, The paints are brushed Xtracolor and the decals from Xtradecal. I wanted a scheme with a clean demarcation between the upper and lower hull colours and as an FAA scheme, AA5R was the obvious choice. Thanks to ex-FAAWAFU for his hugely helpful WIP thread. The photo of AA5R shows light bomb carriers so I used the kit practice bombs and also fitted the other bomb racks. The photo also shows the bracing wires clearly but no antenna from the rudder to the top wing aerials so I left that off. It's a brilliant kit and the struts are more-or-less self aligning - congrats to the new Airfix. Thanks for looking!
  16. 7 points
    Hi guys; I finished this Zvezda 1/72 last December. I used Mig acrylics and Eduard PE set. I really liked this kit, but I had difficulties with Mig paints. Here some photos: Cheers;
  17. 7 points
    This is my completed Diorama 'Delivering Monty's Tank. It is the Merit M19 Diamond T Tank Transporter and the Tamiya M£ Grant tank. The Driver and camel are M&B figures. I Hope yo like it!
  18. 7 points
    I am also considering building the loading tractor/trailer unit for this build. As i noticed that the airfix ww2 u.s. airfield re-supply kit has the same 1:72 scale autocar tractor unit as the tempelhof inspiration photograph (- to my untrained eye) The trailer would need a whole bunch of scratch building but theres a good chassis base there to start from. I think the boxes could be sourced out there from a quick search around and it could be fun to recreate the scene. Downsides are: #1. I’ve never built a car/truck/armour or any vehicle except an aircraft before! And #2. I’ve only tried scratchbuilding something simple recently in another build thread without much finesse! So I’m pretty inexperienced all round and i might be biting off way more than i can chew. But hey there’s gotta be a first time - the worst that can happen is it fails. - and besides theres a forum of experts here to help advise so now might be the perfect time to try this? Maybe it’s best to see how i get on with the plane first? Any advice is welcome! Thanks
  19. 7 points
    After this morning's rather plaintive missive I decided to shove things aside this evening. With Mrs. B working in her studio, our youngest out at a friend's party (I say youngest - he's taller than me now...) the eldest doing something unspeakable to aliens on the Xbox and not even a cat to distract you with demands for food/milk/petting, it occurred to me that there was actually nothing to hindera bit of quality time on the shop floor! The sense of liberty was overwhelming. Firstly then, this had been bothering me at the start of the week: Given that I'd been so particular in following the schematics for the framework in three-dimensions, I was baffled to find that after soldering the nose part of it on to the existing rear section, that there was a significant gap between it and the fuselage walls on either side, You know that feeling of vexation when you can't account for such an error creeping in? Annoying isn't the word. At least being too busy to do anything about it was a blessing in disguise so it wasn't until this evening that I had a chance to work out why and the penny dropped I'd missed the obvious in that there was nothing wrong with my measurements/scaling, but I had forgotten that along each side of the fuselage under the windows is a shelf/sill type thing that accounts for the gap. You get a nice view of it with the lads climbing in here: It runs all the way along from the rearmost window behind the radio station, all the way forward to disappear under the IP. A simple enough matter to replicate with some plastic strip: I'd anticipated tha there would be some argy-bargy, if not a downright howsyerfather in getting the final overall structure finessed and settled inside the fusealge snuggly enough. Sure enough there was. It's one of the penalties of using 0.3mm tubing - looks in scale but easily bent out of alignment during handling and I found that I had to rethink the build sequence. The nav station had a tendency to pull the forward section in too strongly so I realized I would have to take it out and add the front cockpit floor in order to keep everything aligned correctly up the front: This also required rebuilding some of the struts of the nose framework to mate with the floor more accurately. I'll redo the nav table mounting late but the important thing is that now works as an ensemble within the volume of the aircraft: Those solder blobs will get ground down to match the flat aspect of the frame junctions when all this bit is finalized. The intenral fit of the framework now though is dead on. Nice and snug! Doesn't seem like a whole lot of work when you look at the pictures does it? You know yourself though that getting structures to fit like that needs a lot of eyeballing and adjusting until 'just so'. A rather tense couple of hours getting that right, but I'm relieved it works and can go to bed now with a warm fuzzy Anson type feeling..... Currently reading Peter Harts': Only a couple of chapters in but just at that stage where you know it's all about to turn to a world of hurt. Polly Harvey's 'All and Everyone' is a fitting accompaniment in this respect. Tony
  20. 6 points
    First completion for 2019. This is the 1/48 Tamiya Jagdtiger built for the NSW Scale Model Shows "Panzer Tracks" Trophy. As usual a pretty fun straight forward build. More images and details at my blog
  21. 6 points
    A build from 9 years ago: Another carefully crafted vac kit from Khee Kha Art Products of Alaska, the WACO YKS is a welcome addition to the growing line of bush planes kitted by this talented manufacturer. This iconic biplane, of which still many cross the skies today is what we define as a classic. Many WACOs rode on floats, and many were modified to accomplish certain tasks; that aside the many models and marks that the factory itself delivered. For that reason it is a good idea before construction to select the actual plane you want to model and get some references, to be able to pint-point details, colors, markings and so forth. Research is an exciting part of the building process, and usually prevents the commission of mistakes regarding appearance, mistakes that are more difficult to correct after the model is built and somebody points them out to you. Construction started by separating the parts and sanding them according to the instructions. The molds have very good surface detail, be careful not to obliterate it. Some lines are a bit faint, so mark them to be able to score/cut/sand at the right place. By the way, those instructions are extensive, detailed and well written. Fuselage windows were open at this time too. I opted to represent a plane that had another engine (Continental), so I put aside the neat resin one that came with the kit (images depicts the well cast and detailed resin bits included in the kit (engine, two props of different style, instrument panel/dashboard, tail wheel, control column, transparent material for the side windows and the two –one spare-windshield) Advised by Khee-Kha’s owner I also modified a few details that slightly differed from the “6” variant in the landing gear area. This informs you about the adaptability of the kit, since with little tweaks you could expand the range of machines that can be represented. Being Khee-Kha’s owner a fan of bush planes, he of course offers aftermarket resin floats and decals for other versions that you can purchase separately. Wings and stab halves were joined, locking tabs glued to the fuselage halves and the interior parts cut from the backing sheet and built-up. I had a pair of suitable white metal wheels so I put aside the vac ones provided. The wheel pants were glued and refined to accept the wheels at this stage. I had to scratch the control wheel/pedestal, but that part is now included in the kit as a resin bit. Once the interior was finished and painted, I joined the fuselage halves, and had to do a little shaving on the cabin floor and instrument panel to have a comfortable fit. I was a bit enthusiastic while sanding the cowl opening, so had to glue a pre-curved flat styrene rim on the cowl mouth, to restore proper shape. Once the fuselage was set I started to locate spars for the wings and stabs, as seen on the photos. I departed a bit from the kit’s instructions since I feel comfortable with my own method, but the kit instructions give you a very good way to deal with the issue. The horizontal tail actually got the spar where it should be, and a connecting piece that united the halves at the front, lodged in the fuselage cutouts for the variable incidence as the original. Later on the elevators were separated from the stab and given a relaxing angle. The windshield transparency was carefully trimmed and set aside for the moment. The side windows were patterned as per their openings, cut and adjusted to fit; as you can see in the photos I added some thin rubber padding to a pair of tweezers after getting fed-up of marring transparencies. This allows the clear part to be held and proceed with minor sanding preserving the surface of the part. Other details as per photos were dealt with (exhaust pipes, carb intake, nav lights, rudder control horn, bottom wing linkage fairings, fuel gages under the upper wing, etc). As you make progress on the building start to think about your decals since they don’t come with the kit (as said, an option can be purchased from the manufacturer separately for one machine). In order to further expedite construction I replaced the kit landing gear and wing struts for Contrail (plastic) and Strutz (brass) material. I also added a lower fuselage fairing where some landing gear reinforcement struts go. The upper wings were glued to fuselage, via a metal tube spar previously inserted after its dihedral was given to it. The model needs a few struts, but fortunately no other rigging than tail bracings and control leads for the rudder horns. Home made decals were printed and a custom paint mix prepared for the model representing NC31663. I am truly grateful for the help received from the National WACO Club, which kindly provided information on WACO liveries.
  22. 6 points
    Howdy All, Just finished my second attempt at Special Hobby`s 1/48 scale Barracuda, so thought I`d bother you with some pic`s Completed to represent an aircraft of 822, 1700 or 1709 Squadron depending on the time frame or what reference you use This is the standard boxing of the kit which doesn`t come with as much resin detail Made a slight improvement by opening the radiator cooling flap under the nose as most photo`s show it open Added some bomb racks and 250lb bombs left over from my recent Swordfish and the 500lb ones are Eduard Brassin items Added the small windows just below the windscreen and did open the fuselage at the forward wing root but you can barely see it All the decals came from the stash And thanks to Seahawk, EwenS and Tony O`Toole for there responses to my original questions on the subject Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking Cheers Russ
  23. 6 points
    Oh, and one other detail I forgot to mention was the prototype's tail skid: I made it by cutting off slices of the actual tailwheel piece until it became wedge-shaped. I'm pretty pleased with the result of that approach!
  24. 6 points
    Here is my finished Boeing 767-200 in 1/200 made from the original Hasegawa American Airlines boxed variant that for those that can remember them, the series went on and fell off the back end of the original Hasegawa Love Liner200 Series. If my memory serves me as well as I hope it does, Hasegawa were quick off the mark to model their original 767 kit when Boeing first released the same. I've got some of the ANA, JAL and Delta original kits but their decals are now pretty much throw-aways as these old 1/200 kits seem to have only ever been stored in damp garages or attic's by their original owners on the basis that the kit looked good at the time of original release but the owner never got around to building it due to being a civil and less interesting subject perhaps...? So this really is the ROO McCoy, or should I say Real McCoy. Using some recently sourced very old Qantas Decals printed in the 90's by ROO-DECALS, lovingly printed in Australia. Shame Qantas retired their 767-200 Boeings as I think this simple livery looks good on a 767. Here's Kanger and Roo for you.... I hope you enjoy the finished article as much as I did so modelling it John
  25. 6 points
    Speaking of worms in a can, I tried and tried and I just can't seem to learn Japanese on the quick so I could read what Aki has to say about painting. I got about as far as ichi ban and gave up. (I was supposed to start at the beginning, right?) So I figured a great idea was to download the instructions for the new Airfix 1:48 Sea Fury kit and see what they have to say about detail painting. At least I now have some Humbrol numbers. In the Airfix kit, I notice a nice padded, quilted backrest on the pilot's seat - was this standard issue for the Sea Fury? I think so, but I want to make sure it isn't one of those warbird things that was mistakenly put into a kit. I hope it was, since I went ahead and made one out of sheet styrene and already put it on the seat...such cruel, wretched impulsiveness! And for those of you who are STILL waiting for me to show proof that I'm actually working on this model, and not just talking about it, here are a couple of photos of the engine. The designs of the castings are really quite clever, and the whole assembly pretty much snaps together. The entire engine is less than 2 cm diameter. Now that this is assembled, I will go back and add a smackeral of superfluous glue to the beginning of the exhausts, and then align each one to the respective port on the cylinder head. Although I am scratching my head as to why I would bother with this, as it won't really be able to be seen once that big honking prop and spinner are in place. (Gotta love that exhaust design - Bristol engineers really knew how to package five pounds of stuff into an aerodynamic three pounds of cowling.) Captured in the middle of the two banks of cylinders is one of those poly-cap thingies, free to rotate (assuming I didn't put glue in the wrong place). The propeller shaft slides into this bushing with a pretty really tight fit; I'm glad I tested this before the model was together. I think the first time I inserted the prop shaft, there may have been some flash or something similar that had to be pushed out of the way. After a lot of test fitting, followed by squinting with various combinations of Mk I and Mk II (mit bifocal) eyeballs, I think the only thing I will add between the engine and the cockpit firewall are two tubes of the engine mount framework (one each side). The only other stuff that would be visible in this scale are the brackets that hold the chain drive (dare I assume this is used to open/close these panels?). And those would be pretty small - as I've said before, I may be a Yank, but I'm not crazy. Cheers, Bill
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