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About cger

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    WWII or Korea era piston airplanes, 1/48 scale

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  1. Hi Martin, I have used Mig masking putty, don't know if its the same as the AK one. One has to press it quite firmly on the model to make it stick, but I found it easier to use than blutac, does not leave any oily residue. HTH, Christian.
  2. hi all, its a surprise to see this old post resurrected from the dead ! The links to the pics are broken but you can see them (and many others) on my Flickr page https://www.flickr.com/people/146235187@N03/ have a nice weekend, Christian.
  3. this is a truly amazing build, very nice painting and crisp canopy frames ! The exhaust stains on the wings are fantastic, and the story behind it is very moving, congratulations !!! Christian.
  4. thanks guys for the kind words, I am glad that you liked it, have a nice day, Christian.
  5. Hi, here is my last completed build. Originally I wanted to rebuild the small vignette below: which fell from its shelf. Being unable to found the windscreen on the floor, I decided to buy another kit on Ebay and to simply do a bit of repair on the vignette. However after finding this picture on the web I had to do better. Below are some pictures on the finished diorama: To keep the display size small, I decided to reduce the depth of the bunker by blanking of the back with balsa sheet painted black. The old Ohka kit was cut off at the nose and inserted inside the bunker. The base was done with insulation foam board, as the bunker structure. Everything was covered with a mix of brown acrylic paint, fine sand, earth and tile grout. The planking is done with coffee stirrers. The vegetation is done with a mix of hemp fibers, commercial fibers, and various plants that I find during our hiking with my wife, like small moss etc. They are kept in glycerin for a few days, then dried and glued to the base with PVA glue, then painted with an airbrush. The pine trees were done with a wood dowel covered with sawdust, then painted with oil paints. The branches are done with asparagus leaves, bought in a florist shop. I hope you will like it, have a nice weekend, Christian.
  6. hi, that's a stunning build, congratulations . Airbrushing pigments turns out very nice, I never tried this. How did you thin them ? Was the airbrush easy to clean afterwards ? best, Christian.
  7. I have both the Trumpeter and RB wheels, and none of them has round teeth. But since the rivet holes you get with them are so small, it is difficult to tell the difference (at least with the naked eye), best, Christian
  8. cger

    AK Air Series

    Hi, Some people seem to be happy with AK air paints but myself never got the hang of it. I have tried several thinners, AK thinner, Tamiya X-20A, but never really managed to avoid the paint drying on the tip of my airbrush. I found AK air paints ok for general covering, but not for fine work. I went back to my trusty Gunze Aqueous and Tamiya acrylic paints. best, Christian.
  9. hi Mark, thanks for your comments, in the cockpit I scratch build the seat, the gunsight and the back armor and improved a little the sides. And you are right, the tyres and propeller blades are from Ultracast. The AMT decals for the stars were ok, but the nose art one was horrendous, best, Christian.
  10. Here is another of my builds from 2018: a P-40 Warhawk from 45th Fighter Squadron in the Pacific, with the famous 'Geronimo' markings. The Hasegawa kit is difficult to find at reasonable prices, so I purchased an AMT kit on Ebay. I had read that the overall shapes are ok. I spend some efforts improving the cockpit with plastic strips etc and riveted the kit with a wheel from RB productions. The kit decals went directly to the trash can, fortunately I was able to get spare markings from the Hasegawa kit. The painting is done with Gunze Aqueous colors. I did a small base by making resin copies of photoetched PSP plates. I hope you will like it,
  11. Thanks guys for the comments ! Here are a few explanations about how I made the base (it is very simple). I use 10mm think isolation foam board bought from a DIY store. Using a vector software (I use Inkscape which is free) I drawed some ellipses of various sizes that I printed on paper. Gluing an ellipse on the foam board and cutting around with a sharp cutter gives me the shape. Blemishes can be sanded with coarse sandpaper. I smooth out the sides with modelling paste from an art store and then paint it. The planks on the base are coffee stirrers (collected over the years, not bought !). I use gloss acrylic medium to depict the water and ice pools, mixing the medium with artificial snow is used for the snow. The earth is done with AK Earth Effects. F rom the smell this is just thick acrylic paint for walls mixed with sand, so next time I will buy one of these small paint samples that they sell to try out colors and do my mix myself. The vegetation is done with some colored foam for railroad modellers. It can also be selfmade I think, best, Christian.
  12. Hi all, I post some pictures of one of my builds from last year, that I finally decided photograph. It is a 109 G-14 from JG 53 found abandoned by US troops in Kassel. I used the Profipack boxing from Eduard and sourced the decals from my spares. I had decided to give a try to AK interactive acrylics but was not able to get correct results, so I went back to my trusty Gunze. The weathering is done with Mig Ammo washes, ink pens and pigments. I made a small base from styrene foam, with a cart from Tamiya, I hope you like it, best, Christian.
  13. Hi all, here are a few pics of a build I finished during the Christmas break. It is the Special Hobby kit in 1/48 scale. The kit is rather typical Special Hobby, an interesting subject but definitely short run. I build it from the box as the well-known 'Home James'. Following discussions on the Aussie Modeler forum, I choose to represent the lighter colored panel on the right side as plywood, the wood grain done with oil paints. The kit was riveted and the engine cowling was widened by about 2mm by adding a styrene strip, otherwise the resin engine does not fit. The paints are Gunze acrylics, I used H 302 for Foliage Green, H 317 for Sky blue, and a custom mix for Earth brown. The weathering is done with Mig Ammo washes and thinned airbrushed coats of acrylic inks on the panel lines. I tried also to reproduce the paint burned by the exhaust gases with coats of very thin paint. I hope you will like it, best, Christian.
  14. You can also use Dymo tape, a cheaper alternative (can be cut lengthwise), best, Christian.
  15. A superb build and nice pics ! I remember building one several years ago when the kit was reissued by Tamiya, but it did not turn out as nice as yours by a long shot ! Makes me want to build another ! Christian.
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