Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

cger

Members
  • Content Count

    133
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

961 Excellent

3 Followers

About cger

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    France
  • Interests
    WWII or Korea era piston airplanes, 1/48 scale

Recent Profile Visitors

1,692 profile views
  1. another superb build, as usual, with flawless painting, congratulations ! I have the Eduard kit in my stash, now it will be hard to resist starting it, Christian
  2. thanks guys for the comments, I plead guilty for the various errors, which I would have avoided if I had taken the time to ask on the forum ! (I am often too impatient). Here is a pic of BR 112 showing the IFF aerial , Spitfire31 is right , the attachment point on my model is much too high. This can be repaired I think. To answer to Massimo, my reasoning was that the access door interior should not age as quickly as the airframe, but maybe a wash there would be appropriate, have a nice day, Christian.
  3. Hi guys, I recently finished the Spitfire VC by Special Hobby, in the boxing devoted to Malta Spitfires. I have read several complaints on the net about this kit, but for my limited Spitfire expertise, it was ok. The only thing I realized a bit too late was that the UC legs are a bit too long (at least compared with Eduard Spits). I started by riveting the kit I choose the markings of BR 112 coded X, one can easily find pics of this plane lying on a beach in Sicily. To represent the famous 'Malta blue', I painted the kit in the Dark Earth, Mid Stone and Azure Blue desert scheme, using Gunze for the upper surfaces and a Tamiya mix for the Azure Blue. On top of that I applied a thin and rather transparent coat of a mix of Gunze H 337 and H 42, leaving the Desert camo slightly visible. There is a patch on the top of the fuselage and also the tail unit who seem not to have been overpainted. The weathering was done with oil washes, India ink pens, and pigments. I hope you will like it, Christian.
  4. cger

    Led desk lamps

    I recently bought this model https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00OZO16K0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, I am very happy with it, Christian.
  5. thanks to all for the kind words, I am glad you like these two builds, the recent Eduard releases are very nice kits for reasonable prices. I stand corrected for the RLM 76, it is H 417 of course, this was a typo. The streaks on the underside are done in several steps. First an oil wash is applied with a fine brush to panel lines (I use Mig Ammo products, but home made oil washes are just as good). It is good to use several different colors at this step. Then I airbrush very diluted coats of earth tones, like Tamiya XF-52 flat earth, XF -57 buff or XF-79 Deck brown. This goes in recesses or whereever dust and dirt is likely to accumulate. On panel lines I also airbrush thin coats of Tamiya Smoke, or Prince August Game inks, diluted in Gunze flat varnish. To do small streaks, I use Faber-Castell Pitt artist pens (size B). The streaks can be erased or blended with water, using a small flat brush. Finally the chipping is done with a small block of foam, dipped in Prince August paint. You have to remove most of the paint by dabbing the foam on some paper towel, until very little remains ( a bit like when you do a drybrush). Then lightly dab the foam (held in interlocking tweezers) where you want paint chips to appear. The key is to do this slowly, in several steps. There is no need to hurry, since (at least for me), this is one of the most satisfactory moments of modelling ! have a nice day, Christian.
  6. Hi all, here are some pics of two 1/48 scale Eduard kits I completed lately. Originally I got my hands on the Reichsverteidigung special boxing, which allows to build one FW 190 A8-R2 and one Bf 109 G14, with plenty of nice marking options. After building one FW 190, I really wanted to make another with the extra glass armor plates on the side of the canopy, so I purchased an extra Overtree kit. The build went very easily (much easier than the earlier FW190 A8 release, which was tricky to assemble). As usual I painted the kits with Gunze Aqueous Hobby colors. I used H 317 and H 68 for the RLM 76 and RLM 74. To add variety I used the recommended H 69 for the Grauviolet RLM 75 on one kit and H 305 on the other. The H 305 has a less violet and more gray shade. The weathering was done with oil washes, acrylic ink pencils, pigments, and chipping done with foam. have a nice day, Christian.
  7. Hi Martin, I have used Mig masking putty, don't know if its the same as the AK one. One has to press it quite firmly on the model to make it stick, but I found it easier to use than blutac, does not leave any oily residue. HTH, Christian.
  8. hi all, its a surprise to see this old post resurrected from the dead ! The links to the pics are broken but you can see them (and many others) on my Flickr page https://www.flickr.com/people/146235187@N03/ have a nice weekend, Christian.
  9. this is a truly amazing build, very nice painting and crisp canopy frames ! The exhaust stains on the wings are fantastic, and the story behind it is very moving, congratulations !!! Christian.
  10. thanks guys for the kind words, I am glad that you liked it, have a nice day, Christian.
  11. Hi, here is my last completed build. Originally I wanted to rebuild the small vignette below: which fell from its shelf. Being unable to found the windscreen on the floor, I decided to buy another kit on Ebay and to simply do a bit of repair on the vignette. However after finding this picture on the web I had to do better. Below are some pictures on the finished diorama: To keep the display size small, I decided to reduce the depth of the bunker by blanking of the back with balsa sheet painted black. The old Ohka kit was cut off at the nose and inserted inside the bunker. The base was done with insulation foam board, as the bunker structure. Everything was covered with a mix of brown acrylic paint, fine sand, earth and tile grout. The planking is done with coffee stirrers. The vegetation is done with a mix of hemp fibers, commercial fibers, and various plants that I find during our hiking with my wife, like small moss etc. They are kept in glycerin for a few days, then dried and glued to the base with PVA glue, then painted with an airbrush. The pine trees were done with a wood dowel covered with sawdust, then painted with oil paints. The branches are done with asparagus leaves, bought in a florist shop. I hope you will like it, have a nice weekend, Christian.
  12. hi, that's a stunning build, congratulations . Airbrushing pigments turns out very nice, I never tried this. How did you thin them ? Was the airbrush easy to clean afterwards ? best, Christian.
  13. I have both the Trumpeter and RB wheels, and none of them has round teeth. But since the rivet holes you get with them are so small, it is difficult to tell the difference (at least with the naked eye), best, Christian
  14. cger

    AK Air Series

    Hi, Some people seem to be happy with AK air paints but myself never got the hang of it. I have tried several thinners, AK thinner, Tamiya X-20A, but never really managed to avoid the paint drying on the tip of my airbrush. I found AK air paints ok for general covering, but not for fine work. I went back to my trusty Gunze Aqueous and Tamiya acrylic paints. best, Christian.
  15. hi Mark, thanks for your comments, in the cockpit I scratch build the seat, the gunsight and the back armor and improved a little the sides. And you are right, the tyres and propeller blades are from Ultracast. The AMT decals for the stars were ok, but the nose art one was horrendous, best, Christian.
×
×
  • Create New...