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cger

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    France
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    WWII or Korea era piston airplanes, 1/48 scale

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  1. wow, you did great justice to the spitfire with these top quality builds ! What is the color scheme used on the Spit VB ? it looks like Dark slate grey and Extra dark sea gray. Congratulations ! Christian
  2. Yes you are quite right, we are spoiled. After several Eduard And Tamiya kits, tackling an old ICM kit was a big change ! many thanks for the kind comments, Christian
  3. Hi guys, here are some pics of one of my recent builds. I have always been attracted by the P51As in the CBI Air commando group markings, in particular by the huge exhaust stains. In 1/48 scale, there are unfortunately few choices available: the best one is clearly the old Accurate Miniatures kit, which is hard to find today, and quite expensive on Ebay. Being somewhat tightfisted, I chose instead the ICM kit, which is well-known for its many problems. The ICM kit is a strange beast, some parts are nicely detailed and molded, some others are full of flash. The most visible problem is the air intake which does not have the correct shape for a P51A . The air intake of the kit was sawed off and a new one was made with plasticard, cut with a Silhouette Portrait machine. The second problem is the transparent parts, which are ugly. I kept the windscreen and the back parts after polishing them, and heat formed transparent plastic to make the two movable panels. The framing was cautiously attached with minute drops of CA glue. The inner gear doors were rebuild with brass sheet (I know that they are supposed to be closed on Mustangs, but I wanted to show them open). You can see other problems that I forgot to correct, for example the spinner is too large. Anyway let's hope that Eduard will some day release all the Allison powered Mustangs, for which there is plenty of nice marking options. There are two tricks that I learned during the build and that v should be shared: the exhaust stains were airbrushed with artist oil paints, thinned with artist quality white spirit. After a few hours of drying, the rainmarks were done with a sharp brush dipped in white spirit. It is quite possible to airbrush oil paints, if you use very light coats and go slowly. The second trick was used to produce the marking Carols Daddy: I tried several times to cut a mask with the Silhouette, but the mask kept tearing apart and deforming. Then I had the idea to cut the markings with the Silhouette in white decal film: the various letters were then carefully placed one by one on the kit, with a nice result I think. The other markings were done with masks as usual. Finally the painting was done with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics, and the weathering with oil paints. To do the base I cast several resin copies of Tamiya barrels and of sheets of PSP plates. This was glued on a foam block with sides made with balsa. I hope you will like it, best, Christian.
  4. Hi, here are a few tips: as a rule it is better to rescribe each part before assembly. You will need metal templates if you plan to rescribe access panels for example. Note that scribing inside a metal template is better done with a sewing pin secured in an X-acto blade. Dymo tape is also good as a substitute for scribing tape. To correct errors, apply CA glue (with a bit of stretched sprue) precisely inside the scribed line, then hit it with a bit of CA accelerator. You can sand the scribed line flat right away. CA glue is better than putty since one can rescribe over hard CA without trouble. I would advice to do some search on Google or Youtube, I am sure there are plenty of videos explaining how to rescribe. HTH Christian.
  5. Hi guys, here are some pictures of one of my lockdown builds: it is the Eduard Spit VIII in the Profipack release, coded DG-R in Burma. Nothing much to say about the build (its is my fourth Spit VIII sofar). I used Gunze and Tamiya paints for the camo, and weathered with oils, pigments and ink pens. I made a small base made with foam board covered with AK Dry ground product. have a nice day, Christian.
  6. Hi Troy, many thanks for your time and for the clarification. Sorry for my bad command of technical english ! have a nice day, Christian.
  7. Hi Troy, thanks again for the details about the Sky color. The Eduard sheet may be correct after all. Thanks also for the pics of Tempests II. It is amazing how the Ocean grey color is also different from one photo to another. The plane I am interested in is the one in the picture below: In the Eduard distributor leaflet, it is depicted as an early version Tempest II, without cooling gills on the top of the engine section and with an underwing pitot tube. Clearly the pitot tube is not under the wing, but the cooling gills look absent. The Special Hobby kit has cooling gills so I would have to sand them off. I do not know if there are other visible differences between early and late Tempests II. have a nice Sunday, Christian.
  8. Hi Troy, If you look at the codes on Eduard decal sheet, you will see that they look very green. The spinner correction was indeed about narrowing and changing the angles of the blade slots. For the color of the spinner of SA D, it is funny because I came across this very picture on the net but did not pay attention. I often follow blindly the kit instructions (because I am too lazy to do serious research ...). The next Tempest in my stash is the Special Hobby Tempest II. Sadly the marking options are not as lively as the ones in the future Eduard release, so I plan to use my Silhouette cutter to do one of the planes offered in the Eduard kit, have a nice weekend, Christian.
  9. Hi Troy, thanks for this picture, I did not know about this story. What I mean is that the codes on Eduard decal sheet are of a different, more greenish shade than the H 74 Sky I used for the band. There are two videos by Paul Budzkik, one of them is the one you mention. Both are worth a look. There is even a third one on the recently released Special Hobby Tempest II. It seems that one of the problems mentioned by Paul, ie the seam lines in the middle of the flaps was corrected on the Tempest II kit. I forgot to mention that I also corrected the kit spinner (following some discussion on this forum), best, Christian.
  10. thanks to all for the kind comments. For the painting I used Tamiya XF81, XF82, XF83 for Dark Green, Ocean grey and Medium Sea grey. As variations of these colors I used Gunze H73, H337 and H335; For the Sky band and codes I used Gunze H74, corrected with a bit of red: I add a few drops of red in a bottle of H74 to make it less green and a bit more yellow. Tamiya paints are thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, and Gunze with Mr Color Levelling thinner. After experimenting with many other thinners, these two give me the best results. When I want to reproduce dust or exhaust stains, I thin Tamiya and Gunze with Isopropyl alcool. In this way the paint dries almost instantly to a very matt finish and I can build up the color very slowly. have a nice day, Christian.
  11. Hi Guys, Here are a few pictures of a pair of Eduard Tempests that I have build this year. There is not much to say about the build, except that I followed some advice from Paul Budzik who has a couple of videos on some issues with the wings on his Youtube channel. I also sanded off the raised rivets on the rear fuselage, since I felt they were overscale. The kits are painted with Tamiya and Gunze acrylics. I had to repaint the codes to match the Sky color of the fuselage band, this was a bit of a nuisance. The first is SA D , a series II Mk V: The second is the famous R B flown by Roland Beamont, which is a series I Tempest: Have a nice evening, Christian.
  12. Hi, thanks a lot for the kind comments ! I must confess that I never thought about the leading edges of the stabilizers, but this is a very sensible question. It could be that they take less airflow than the wings and hence stay in a better shape. Few pictures of airplanes from the period show stabilizer leading edges, and I do not remember seeing a model with stabilizer edges chipped. So I did not bother with them, but I may very well be wrong, best, Christian.
  13. Hi all, Here are a few shots of a build from last year that I had time to photograph this weekend. It is the beautiful P 38 G from Tamiya in 1/48 scale. I used aftermarket decals from Exito Decals, to depict ' Beautiful Lass'. There is not much to say about the build, except that I decided to add rivets, using a riveting plan in a french modelling magazine. This was quite long and tedious, but since my technique is at last improving, it went faster than expected. I painted the kit with Gunze acrylics. The chipping on the wing roots was partly done with an aluminium undercoat and chipping fluid, the smaller chips are done with a small paintbrush. For the final weathering, I changed from my usual technique and used only oil paints. I am now sold on them, since they are so flexible, have a nice Sunday ! Christian.
  14. cger

    Klear question?

    as said above I would not thin Klear. When I use it, I apply it with a soft flat brush, having had too much troubles trying to airbrush it. I also found that dedicated varnishes (Gunze gloss coat or Tamiya X22) are much better than Klear (at least for me). If you absolutely want to thin Klear, I advice using rubbing alcohol instead of water, best, Christian.
  15. Hi, I have bottles of Gunze Aqueous Hobby Color paints opened more than ten years ago, and they are still good. Of course the paint is a bit thicker than the one in new bottles, but nothing that thinner cannot cure. I wipe clean the top of the jar when finishd and close the lid tightly best, Christian.
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