Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,032 Excellent


About cger

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    WWII or Korea era piston airplanes, 1/48 scale

Recent Profile Visitors

1,863 profile views
  1. cger

    Klear question?

    as said above I would not thin Klear. When I use it, I apply it with a soft flat brush, having had too much troubles trying to airbrush it. I also found that dedicated varnishes (Gunze gloss coat or Tamiya X22) are much better than Klear (at least for me). If you absolutely want to thin Klear, I advice using rubbing alcohol instead of water, best, Christian.
  2. Hi, I have bottles of Gunze Aqueous Hobby Color paints opened more than ten years ago, and they are still good. Of course the paint is a bit thicker than the one in new bottles, but nothing that thinner cannot cure. I wipe clean the top of the jar when finishd and close the lid tightly best, Christian.
  3. Hi, to make nice landing light covers I use clear tape. First step is to apply masking tape around the cover. This will box in a small rectangle. Then apply a small piece of clear tape. Its edges are glued to the masking tape, so you can cut around the inside of the rectangle with a sharp blade and remove the parts of the clear tape which are on the masking tape (thereby not damaging your paint job). If necessary you can mask the kind of oval shape of the landing light cover and repaint on top of that. best, Christian.
  4. Hi guys, I use the lockdown period in France to diminish my stack of unfinished kits, this is the last completed: it is the Seafury kit from Airfix in the foreign service boxing. I used a resin cowling resin wheels from Barracudacast. The first step was riveting the kit, which I would not do it again, since photos of Seafuries show a very smooth skin . The cockpit was built from the kit parts, since very little remains visible anyway, but I spend some time with the wheel wells, to replicate the intricate plumbing and wiring. I used fly tyi
  5. Hi Guys, due to the lockdown in France, I had to look at the bottom of my stash to find something exotic to build. I had bought the Roden kit of the Rolls-Royce armored car many years ago, but I was always frightened by the number of parts and low quality of the molding of some pieces. I usually build 1/48 scale aicraft, so this was quite a big change for me. I found a build by Andy Moore on this forum of the Meng rendition, which I tried to follow regarding the colors. Since I did not have access to AK real colors because of lockdown, I used custom m
  6. Congratulations , this is a fantastic build ! I like very much the bleached out effect on the wings. What brand of paint did you use ? best, Christian.
  7. another superb build, as usual, with flawless painting, congratulations ! I have the Eduard kit in my stash, now it will be hard to resist starting it, Christian
  8. thanks guys for the comments, I plead guilty for the various errors, which I would have avoided if I had taken the time to ask on the forum ! (I am often too impatient). Here is a pic of BR 112 showing the IFF aerial , Spitfire31 is right , the attachment point on my model is much too high. This can be repaired I think. To answer to Massimo, my reasoning was that the access door interior should not age as quickly as the airframe, but maybe a wash there would be appropriate, have a nice day, Christian.
  9. Hi guys, I recently finished the Spitfire VC by Special Hobby, in the boxing devoted to Malta Spitfires. I have read several complaints on the net about this kit, but for my limited Spitfire expertise, it was ok. The only thing I realized a bit too late was that the UC legs are a bit too long (at least compared with Eduard Spits). I started by riveting the kit I choose the markings of BR 112 coded X, one can easily find pics of this plane lying on a beach in Sicily. To represent the famous 'Malta blue', I painted the kit in the Da
  10. I recently bought this model https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00OZO16K0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, I am very happy with it, Christian.
  11. thanks to all for the kind words, I am glad you like these two builds, the recent Eduard releases are very nice kits for reasonable prices. I stand corrected for the RLM 76, it is H 417 of course, this was a typo. The streaks on the underside are done in several steps. First an oil wash is applied with a fine brush to panel lines (I use Mig Ammo products, but home made oil washes are just as good). It is good to use several different colors at this step. Then I airbrush very diluted coats of earth tones, like Tamiya XF-52 flat earth, XF -57 buff or XF-79
  12. Hi all, here are some pics of two 1/48 scale Eduard kits I completed lately. Originally I got my hands on the Reichsverteidigung special boxing, which allows to build one FW 190 A8-R2 and one Bf 109 G14, with plenty of nice marking options. After building one FW 190, I really wanted to make another with the extra glass armor plates on the side of the canopy, so I purchased an extra Overtree kit. The build went very easily (much easier than the earlier FW190 A8 release, which was tricky to assemble). As usual I painted the kits with Gunze Aqueous Hobby colors. I use
  13. Hi Martin, I have used Mig masking putty, don't know if its the same as the AK one. One has to press it quite firmly on the model to make it stick, but I found it easier to use than blutac, does not leave any oily residue. HTH, Christian.
  14. hi all, its a surprise to see this old post resurrected from the dead ! The links to the pics are broken but you can see them (and many others) on my Flickr page https://www.flickr.com/people/146235187@N03/ have a nice weekend, Christian.
  15. this is a truly amazing build, very nice painting and crisp canopy frames ! The exhaust stains on the wings are fantastic, and the story behind it is very moving, congratulations !!! Christian.
  • Create New...