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Sandbagger last won the day on June 26 2016

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About Sandbagger

  • Birthday 12/12/1949

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    Coningsby, Lincolnshire, UK

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  1. Hi all, I thought you might like to see final build of a Mosca-Bystritsky MB bis fighter, flown by the Imperial Russian Air Force from 1916. The forum build is here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235094316-132nd-scale-mosca-bystritsky-mb-bis-fighter/#comments The basic 1:32nd scale kit is resin and made by ‘Omega Models’ (Kit No: 32-003). The list of changes/additions to the model are: Engine: Detailed with Nickel-Silver valve push rods, copper wire ignition leads and replacement induction manifolds. Modified or corrected: All wing support, landing gear, tail skid and gun mount struts were replaced with handmade Brass tube struts with internal reinforcing Brass rod. Rigging is 0.08 mm or 0.12 mm diameter mono-filament with ‘GasPatch’ 1:48th scale turnbuckles and 0.5 mm or 0.4 mm diameter blackened Brass tube. Upper and lower rudders were replaced with scratch made rudders from plastic card. Aftermarket: ‘GasPatch’ spoke wheels and tyres used to replace the resin kit parts. ‘GasPatch’ Lewis Mk.1 Standard type (stripped front) used to replace kit part. ‘BarracudaCast’ British wicker AGS seat used to replace the kit part. ‘Kellerkind Miniaturen’ Russian pilot 1914-17. ‘Jadar’ WW1 1:48th scale control horns. Decals: ‘Aviattic’ Clear Doped Linen (CDL) bleached (ATT32044), ‘Aviattic’ Walnut woodgrain (dark and light) (ATT32060), ‘Airscale’ WW1 Generic instrument dials (AS32 WW1). The kit decals were replaced with corrected markings, printed from an Inkjet printer and on white decal paper. As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and photographs. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log. My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that model photo page. For any photograph, just click the photo to enlarge or reduce the viewing size. http://igavh2.xara.hosting Mike
  2. Hi all, I've added 'Taurus Models' resin fuel primers (D3219) and spark plugs (D3218). The primer levers will be fitted later in the engine build so as to avoid breaking them whilst handling, Mike
  3. Hi all, I'm starting on the engine. The right side of the engine has a coolant pipe, interconnected between each of the cylinder jackets. Due to limitations of moulding, this pipe looks unrealistic and joins the bottoms of the cylinders, which should be separated.. Therefore I've cut it away from the cylinders and replaced each pipe with 0.8 mm diameter plastic rod, chamfered at each end to merge with the cylinders at each end. Game on, Mike
  4. Hi all, I'm waiting for the display case to arrive for the previous model. As the last few resin models completed required a lot of 'scratch' building, I thought I'd build something without any struts or rigging. So this time around it'll be the ‘Wingnut Wings’ Junkers D.I (Kit No.32065). This model will depict a Junkers D.I that was involved in a flying accident, possibly during testing, on the 3rd of October 1918. It was most likely repaired and possibly given the Serial No: 5188/18. It was then operated by either MFJG in Belgium or with Kampfgeschwader ’Sachsenburg’, operating in the Baltic during 1919. The Junkers D.I was designated as a ‘battle plane’, meaning its perceived operational role was to be that of ground attack, rather than as a fighter. Only 40 aircraft were built between June 1918 and February 1919 and it seems of these, only 5 were delivered to the front. It's not certain than any of these aircraft took part in actual combat. Although there were reports from the British late in the war that there were ’encounters with German monoplanes that were covered with corrugated sheet’. These 5 aircraft were eventually abandoned on the German landing field of Hombeek in Belgium. However, the aircraft did see active service after the war, in action against the Bolshevik forces in the Baltic countries. They were operated by the ‘Kampfgeschwader Sachsenburg’ volunteer regiment, commanded by Gothard Sachsenburg, a former pilot of the German naval ’Marine Jasta’. The regiment consisted of 3 squadrons, being FA413 (reconnaissance), FA416 (fighter) and FA417 (ground attack). Both FA416 and FA417 operated the Junkers D.I as well as the Junkers CL.I (two seat version) aircraft. A few aircraft were lost in combat, including a Junkers D.I being flown by Josef Jacobs. When hostilities ceased, those aircraft remaining were found by Soviet forces, abandoned on an airfield near Riga. The lineage of this aircraft traces back to Professor Hugo Junkers, when in 1912 he patented a design for a thick, cantilever constructed initially of corrugated steel. The first Junkers J.I and J.2 monoplanes were built but proved too heavy for operational use. Therefore the Junkers J.3 was redesigned during 1916 using an aluminium alloy (Duraluminium). However it was shelved when production was switched to the Junkers J.1 biplane, which entered service in 1917. Due to the positive response for the J.I, work recommenced on an armored single seat monoplane, starting with the Junkers J.5 through to the J.9, which eventually became the operational Junkers D.1. The maiden flight took place in May 1918 and further changes to the design saw 4 aircraft of the final version dispatched to the front in October 1918. The design of this aircraft was revolutionary for its time, being a monoplane of metal construction and with only cross brace rigging on the undercarriage. The airframe was essentially of tubular construction with corrugated Duraluminium covering. Various engines were fitted during the prototype stages, but it seems the Daimler-Mercedes D.IIIa (180hp) or D.IIIaü (200hp) engines were fitted to operational aircraft. Armament consisted of twin 7.92 mm LMG 08/15 ‘Spandau’ machine guns. Mike
  5. Hi all, Last update. 'Kellerkind' Russian pilot, Mike
  6. Not sure yet. Normally at this stage I'd be researching the next build. However, I need a couple of days to write an article for the 'Kit' magazine (the IPMS, Belgium). So I'll have time to think about the next model, Mike
  7. Hi all, I've now added all of the required rigging, the weapon, windscreen foot step and the propeller. So apart from the figure and setting up the display case, the model is finished. Once again thanks to everyone's comment and encouragement on what was a challenging build, I'll post the final shots in a few days. Mike
  8. Hi all, Wings and V strut support frame fitted. Now onto the rigging, Mike
  9. Hi all, I've pre-rigged the two wings with 0.4 mm diameter blackened Brass tube, 'GasPatch 1:48th Type turnbuckles and 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament. A line is passed through a tube and turnbuckle then back through the tube and secured. The free end of the line is then passed through a hole in the wing and a tube and turnbuckle added. The end result if a free moving and double ended turnbuckle, which should self-align when the landing and wing warp lines are attached to the free end of the turnbuckles. The two V struts are also fitted with wing warp control cables fitted to the rear strut. Finally, I've added the tail plane control lever and cable to the fuselage underside. Now onto fitting the wings and support frame, Mike
  10. Hi all, A bit of progress. The carburettor air intakes, engine landing gear and wheels have been fitted. Also the tail unit, consisting of upper and lower rudders, tail plane, control horns and rudder/elevator control lines. Finally the tail skid assembly including the 'bungee' type suspension cords. The next step is to pre-rig the wing warping control lines and bracing wires before the wings are fitted, Mike
  11. Hi all, The weathering has been applied and sealed. 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt and Grime fine clay washes. Now onto the pre-rigging before construction, Mike
  12. Hi all, I thought of replacing the Russian markings using masks and airbrushing the three colours. However, aligning concentric circles accurately and without over spray was always going to be tricky. Therefore I decide to print the decals instead, using an Inkjet printer, not Laser. This is the process I used: Create the decal in Photoshop Pro software or similar. Test print on paper to check size. NOTE: As the centre of the Russian markings are white, I used Mr. Decal White decal paper, to avoid the surface below the applied decal showing through too much. Place the decal paper into the printer feeder tray with the glossy side facing up. Adjust the printer setting for the paper to ‘Premium Gloss Photo paper’ or equivalent and set the print resolution to high. Print the decal sheet. Leave the printed decal sheet for several hours to allow the ink to fully dry. NOTE: During the following step, do not apply too much sealer over the decals, as it can flood the surface and when dry cause a ’fish eye’ effect. Also spray at a shallow angle to the decal sheet, not at 90 degrees and at a distance of 12 inches or more away. Wear a respirator and spray in a well ventilated area. Apply a several light coats of sealer over the decals, using such as ’Krylon’ Acryli-Quik acrylic lacquer or similar. Allow each coat to thoroughly dry before applying another coat. Check decals are fully covered and sealed with the clear coat. NOTE: If using White decal paper, make sure you cut around the decals as close to the outline as possible, to avoid the white decal paper showing at the edges. Carefully cut as close as possible around the decal to remove it from the backing sheet. Make sure the model surface is smooth and has clear gloss acrylic coat, such as ’Alclad' Aqua Gloss 600 or similar. NOTE: Adding PVA adhesive (white glue) to the water, used to detach the decal from its backing paper, can improve adhesion of the decal to the model and help prevent ‘silvering’ (trapped air) under the decal. Also take care not to ‘stretch’ the decals when removing the water. Apply the decals to the model as for standard water slide decals. Mike
  13. Hi Ian, Thanks. I've not seen an illustration or photograph of the underside of the aircraft. I based my assumptions on the side elevation drawings only. It's interesting that the plan view drawings show what appear to be upper and lower bracing wires on the tail plane (tips to fuselage). However I can't make them out from the few photographs of this aircraft. So I think they indicate internal structure rather than external bracing wires? Mike
  14. Hi all, The linen decals have now been applied. White primed base coat, polished then pre-shaded with 'thinned 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19). The decals were cut from a sheet of the ‘Aviattic’ Clear Doped Linen (CDL) bleached (ATT32044). The Russian cockard decals supplied in the kit are ink jet printed and not 'cookie' cut. Typical of these type of decals, that are very easily surface damaged, before or after application. If possible, I'll probably airbrush the cockards using templates - we'll see. Mike
  15. Hi all, The pre-shading has been applied to the fuselage, wings and flight surfaces. I've attempted to represent the engine as best I could, given that the kit supplied moulding is the worst I've seen. The single piece engine is misaligned so there is a step at each side of the cylinders. Only 6 inlet manifolds were in the kit, there should be nine (replaced with spare 'Roden' manifolds). No valve gear or push rods or spark plugs either. The kit engine had to used as no other replacement engine would fit inside the engine cowl. In fact I had to remove the top of four cylinders to get the kit engine to fit (the can't be seen in the cowl). I've used the resin propeller in the kit but replaced the centre boss plate with a spare 'GasPatch' part. I've discarded the kit supplied wheels and replaced them with 'GasPatch' spoked wheels. Mike
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