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Sandbagger last won the day on June 26 2016

Sandbagger had the most liked content!

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About Sandbagger

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  • Birthday 12/12/1949

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    Coningsby, Lincolnshire, UK

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  1. Hi all, An example below of the 'translucent' decals supplied in the kit. When applied over other decals or paint, the colour below shows through. This means a white base colour needs to be applied, both under individual decals as well as for the wood effect decals. It also means the individual wood decals will need to be cut around the kit decals - tricky, but worth trying rather than using oil paint for wood effect and then painting on a white base under each decal location. Mike
  2. Hi all, The fuselage has now been prepared for application of the decals, which hopefully will be a combination of wood effect decals and kit decals. If that doesn't work out I'll revert to creating the wood effects using oil paints. The actual aircraft had a Latin legend along both sides of the fuselage - ‘FRANGAR NON FLECTAR’. Some translation for this are: 'I am broken, I am not deflected' ’I’ll break but will not bend’ 'I will break, not bow' 'I am broken, I am not deflected' This is not supplied as a decal in the kit, which is not surprising given it's not even shown on the kit colour illustrations!! As there is no aftermarket for this I have to resort to creating a mask set, which I've done on my 'Cricut Air 2' cutting machine. Hopefully the mask won't peel off and decals or paint when I remove them, as airbrushing this legend is literally the last job on the fuselage. I've added the 'dome' in front of the windscreen and what appears to be a rudimentary gun sight. The purpose of this 'dome' is unclear. I've primed the fuselage in white as the decals are somewhat 'see through', so need a white base under the roundels. Also the wood effect decals need a white background. I've added pre-shading along the wood panel nail lines, which I created with a 'Rosie the Riveter' tool. Mike
  3. Hi all, The cockpit is now complete. As I found with the engine, the cockpit required a lot of modifications and additions to bring it up to looking more like the actual aircraft cockpit. Basically, the modifications and additions made were as follows: Fuselage inner side walls heavily thinned and both assembled machine guns modified to allow the guns to sit in their correct positions in the cockpit. Forward bulkhead repositioned as the kit instructions were incorrect. Support bar for the instrument panel and climb indicator replaced with micro-tube (kit part too short). Cockpit rear padding created from ‘Milliput’ (kit photo-etch part unusable). Cockpit forward edge padding bead added (not in the kit). Pilot’s seat – addition holes in the seat back. Pilot’s seat – slots created for the seat belts. Pilot’s seat – seat support frame created (not in the kit). Pilot’s foot board assembly modified to allow the control column to be positioned further away from the pilot’s seat. Pilot’s seat top attachment to rear bulkhead added. Panel switches replaced with micro-tube (kit photo-etch unrealistic). ‘Taurus Models’ starter magneto added (not in kit). ‘Taurus Models’ starter magneto safety switch added (not in the kit). Tachometer ‘scratch’ replaced (kit part too large). Engine half compression lever and control rod added (not in the kit). Fuel contents pipe to gauge added – ‘PlusModels’ lead wire. Oil pressure pipe to gauge added – ‘PlusModels’ lead wire. Micro-tube used for control rods (Half compression control, Spark advance control, Fuel mixture control). Cockpit window ports created using clear acetate sheet and in-filled with ‘Krystal Clear’. Rudder control cables added (0.4 mm Nickel-Silver tube and 0.12 mm mono-filament). Hole drilled through right side of fuselage (at engine forward right support strut location) – for cockpit controls to engine. Control column machine gun triggers replaced with micro-tube (kit photo-etch unrealistic). Machine gun trigger cables added (‘PlusModels’ lead wire). Other than that, the cockpit was built straight out of the box!! I forgot to take completion shots of the cockpits internals before closing it up. However, there is the one shot on the cockpit floor assembly finished. In the following photographs, the two ‘white discs’ are the cockpit window ports – the ‘Krystal Clear’ was still setting when I took the photographs, Mike
  4. Hi all, Weather permitting (storm Dennis) I'll be there with the Great War SIG. I'm planning to take my recent builds along: Aviatik 'Berg' DI Sopwith Swallow Fokker D.VII (OAW skeletal) Fokker D.VII (Albatros) Sopwith Triplane Hope to see you there, Mike
  5. Hi all, The cockpit has been modified to correct and add components not supplied in the kit. Corrected: Positioning of both machine guns (rearwards into the cockpit and closer to the cockpit side walls). Replacement instrument panel support bar (kit part too short). Control rod for Mixture control and Spark advance levers replaced (too weak). Tachometer replaced (kit part too large). Added: Fuel panel switches (0.3 mm tube). Mixture control and Spark advance control rods (x2) (0.4 mm tube).. Starter magneto ('Taurus Models'). Starter magneto safety switch ('Taurus Models'). Replacement Tachometer (from sprue). Half compression operating lever and control rod (spare photo-etch and 0.4 mm tube). Cockpit front edge padding ('ANYZ' 0.5 mm braided line). After painting I will add: The fuel contents and oil pressure pipes to the instrument panel. Wiring for the starter magneto and safety switch. Tachometer drive shaft. Instrument decals (not supplied in the kit). Transparencies for the two 'windows'. Flight control cables. The shots below show the primed cockpit components dry fitted (except control column). Mike
  6. Thanks guys - this engine has taken me the longest of all to modify to better represent the real engine. The resin kit is generally of good quality but let down in some areas, such as the engine. Not to worry - we are modellers not assemblers, so onwards and upwards, Mike
  7. Hi all, I've gone as far as I can modifying the resin kit engine to better resemble the actual 'Isotta Fraschini V4B’ engine. The shots below show it primed and dry fitted, including replacement exhaust pipes made from 1.4 mm diameter tube. It's the longest engine modification I've undertaken thus far, but hopefully it'll be worth it. So now, it's time to move onto modifying the cockpit area !! Mike
  8. Hi all, Two pipes were connected to the underside of the coolant return pipe, located at the top of the engine. The two pipes were routed across to the other side of the engine, between the end and centre cylinder banks. The purpose for these two pipes is not clear or to where on the engine they were eventually connected. As the pipes were connected to the coolant return pipe, it would seem hot coolant from the engine was carried in the pipes. My only assumption is that these pipes supplied hot coolant to the housings of the two carburettors, thereby ’pre-heating’ both of the carburettors. This would have helped preventing icing up, which may have been more of a problem for seaplanes more than land based aircraft. The pipes were made from 0.8 mm and 0.5 mm diameter tube. Mike
  9. Hi all, I've added the external oil pipes at the propeller end of the engine. These made from 0.7 mm and 0.4 mm brass tube, Mike
  10. Hi all, Just a quick update for the engine modifications. The valve operating gear is now done - made from 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm thick plastic card.. The shots below show the dry fit of: Carburettor and induction manifolds Ignition lead support tubes Coolant supply and return pipes. All that's left now are a couple of external oil pipes and it should be ready to start painting and building the engine. Other items such as ignition leads, engine placard plates etc can't be added until the engine build is completed, Mike
  11. Hi all, I've been working the last few days on ways to better represent the valve operating gear for this engine, as the kit supplied photo-etch is not very realistic. After trying converted photo-etch, card and other methods, I decided to go with this. This is not meant to accurately 'reproduce' the engines valve gear, but more to 'represent' it as the kit engine does not lend itself easily to this modification. The operating levers are made as two separate levers from 0.5 mm thick plastic card. The levers are shaped then joined at the centre and secured to their individual operating shafts. The bottom of the push rods were marked on the engine then drilled with a 0.6 mm diameter drill. Nickel-Silver rod of 0.4 mm diameter was cut and secured in each drilled hole and against the end of the levers. Finally a 0.51 mm hexagonal nut (from 'RB Motions' was added to the top of each rod. Once all of the push rods are done I need to add the pivot lever between each pair of rods. Mike
  12. Hi all, Twelve spark plugs with ignition leads. Made from 0.5 mm diameter tube with 0.28 mm diameter copper wire (annealed) leads. Fitted into 0.6 mm diameter holes drilled into both sides of each cylinder bank. Now it's onto the really tricky valve operating gear, Mike
  13. Hi all, A few more updates for the carburettors and induction manifolds. Hollowed out the air intakes at the bottom of the carburettors. The induction manifolds cut/joins have been filled. Added the carburettor barrels (made from a tooth pick). Added 0.5 mm diameter plastic rod into the induction manifolds and carburettor barrels to represent the interconnecting fuel supply pipe and auxiliary pipe. Added control lever for the throttle butterfly valves in the induction manifolds (control rods to added later). Added three nuts to each intake manifold header pipe. Obviously it all needs cleaning up and priming, but for now I'll move onto creating the 12 spark plugs, Mike
  14. Hi all, On the side of the engine crank case and between the two carburettors is a blanking plate. I believe this plate was fitted to seal what was previously the oil filler pipe for the engine sump, but not used on this version of the engine. To represent this blanking plate, I cut a disc of approximately 2.5 mm diameter from 0.2 mm thick plastic card and secure it in position on the sump using thin CA adhesive. Two oil filler pipes were used to replenish oil in the engine sump and were located on the engine crank case on the opposite side from the carburettors. Each was fitted with a cap. Two 2.5 mm diameter discs were cut from 0.2 mm plastic card and secured on the sump. The centre of each disc and into the sump were gradually drilled up to 1.3 mm diameter. To represent these filler pipes, 0.8 mm diameter rod was slide into 1.2 mm tube. The tubes were annealed then bent to the required angle. One end was roll cut to remove the outer tube leaving rod exposed. The other end was cut completely through. 2.0 mm plastic rod was cut to to create two 5 mm lengths and a 0.9 mm diameter hole drilled through the centre of each. These were attached on the exposed 0.8 mm rods and secured with CA adhesive. The top of the 'caps' were then filed down to a height of 1.5 mm and sanded around the top edge.. Lastly the two 'filler pipes' were secured in the crank case holes with CA adhesive, Mike
  15. Hi all, I thought I'd explain why I'm attempting to detail the engine as much as I am. Normally if the engine is partly or totally covered by airframe or engine panels, there would be less reason to detail the engine as much. However the Macchi M.5, even with the engine under tray and side panels fitted, was mostly visible. The particular aircraft I'm attempting to model is 'FRANGAR NON FLECTAR’, Serial No.7288 as flown by Tenente DV Alberto Bartolozzo, Officer Commanding No.260a Squadriglla, operating from Venice during 1918. That particular aircraft did not have the engine side panels fitted and so the entire engine was fully exposed. The engine is a primary focal point for anyone looking at the model. Therefore I felt that it was important to rectify the apparent omissions and errors with the kit supplied engine. Mike
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