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About Torbjorn

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  1. Thank you for the praise - these thin-walled open constructions do make it tricky to get things in scale but still sturdy. Fortunately it won’t bear any loads except the strain from the cobtrol wires. Less masterfully is the first wing I made: I had printed the wing drawing in scale 1:100
  2. I see AM is not encouraged (I agree). Although I think this would be within the rules and spirit of thing, I wanted to check first: Kit: ancient Airfix Avro 504 without decals: £1.5 AM decals: 1/3rd of Blue rider sheet: £1.5 Spare Roden engine not used in kit it came with (their Camel kits comes with 3 engines): let’s be generous and say £1.0 Total cost 4 British moneys.
  3. Urg. Almost all GBs I applied to are over-lapping during the first half of the year, and then desert for the second. But I’ll try to find some time.
  4. Not a bad idea. And I do have some piano wire somewhere - if only I could find it. Past weeks saw very little modelling time. Continued on the nacelle. Here’s a very fine photo of a Swedish Farman during maintenance, and even though I don’t know whether it’s a French or Swedish-built machine I’m using this to replicate several features. The back-plate holding the engine needs to be thin but sturdy, so I made it out of brass. This image shows how (the right lightening hole is being filed and the top strip bent into place and soldered:
  5. She’s a beauty, and those ear-muffs posing as radiators add to the charm. Thanks for writing your boom fitting procedures, it’s helpful to see what works (and that many orders work - it is as you say easy yo thunk yourself into a corner imagining there is only one solution).
  6. It’s a great canopy, looking more realistic than any injection-moulded I’ve seen.
  7. Yes, I think I shall do that - I still haven’t closed the floats and there is room for plenty of weight. I do have a set of two of those slide-fit tubes, but not enough. My only issues are that the AA brass is expensive in quantities and I’m a cheapskate
  8. Yes, I will do something similar. I only plan to solder the upper and lower V:s together, plus some anchor points for the plastic struts/rigging. I may utterly fail and resort to CA. I also noticed I have no brass of suitable diameter. The copper wire I have is too soft, so I will have to order some brass rod or tube, which typically come hardened. I think 0.6 or 0.7 mm should be suitable. I also placed an order for a few smallstuffmodels engines. The delivery time will cause a delay, but I have little time available for playing anyway. — For actual mo
  9. Thanks pheonix, I shall have a look. Still contemplating what material to use, but booms of soldered metal for rigidity and to keep the shape while adding plastic struts and wires seems like the best option.
  10. Let me propose a new display table, something like this: https://www.antiques-atlas.com/antique/antique_anglo-indian_carved_hardwood_elephant_table/as623a1159
  11. It’s indeed 1/72. I sometimes regret not going into 1/48 but I’m stuck now. Thanks for the link - a lovely model! I have started reading the log, and anything helps. I’m glad to see a simple jig helped to get the booms straight, and this one should be even simpler since they meet at the centreline.
  12. Have spent a few days looking at photos and pondering how to build all the parts. Some question marks still stand. Started with the slippers, as they were called, they were relatively simple affairs. Built them up simply, left to cover the under- and upper sides. Also started with the fuselage. Decided on a relatively robust false floor (in reality it was mostly cloth and the aft section had no floor all). I will cut away the aft part of the floor piece. The sides will be made from a single piece of bent 5 thou sheet. The frame work was a combo of wo
  13. Neat. Too expensive for me now, but after the technology has had 5-10 years to mature I think we’ll be spoiled with these type of kits.
  14. Agree - that’s how I treat it. For used/stained look I usually mix it with various sandy brown or yellow shades.
  15. Looks good to me - also I can suggest to have a look at Vallejo’s Aged White. It’s a bit less yellow than your mix appear to be.
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