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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/26/2016 in Posts

  1. 8 points
    So, back in post #664 I queried the audience with regard to the appropriate size of some photoetch pieces. I got these off of a NASCAR fret and the actual application for the little buggers are 1:24 scale windshield clips. As it turns out, I thought they would work well as part of a 1:72 scale Firefly wing fold mechanism. Let's have a look at a picture of the actual wing: On the inner face of the outer wing (the area painted interior grey-green in the photo) you can see what looks like four grommets or sleeves, mounted at an angle relative to the axis of the wing. My guess, and that's purely what it is at this point, is that when the wing deploys into flight position there are some pins or axles of some kind that slide into these sleeves to lock the wing in place. Steve, help me out here - am I even close in describing what these are used for? With respect to a Firefly model with the wings folded, these grommets or sleeves will be quite visible. I got the idea of using the NASCAR windshield clips since they're about the right size, but more importantly the right shape. On the fret, these clips were flat, so I bent the bottom portion into a square angle which not only gives the correct height but also a small flat surface that the CA adhesive can stick to. Here is what we have after attaching to the wings: What do you think? Is the ruse successful? I've also done some weathering to the wings, and I think they're ready for their final varnish. I used some small diameter copper wire to make the guards that attach to the outer ends of the tailplanes but I'm not going to add these to the model until the wings are attached. Otherwise I think I'll just knock them off. What else is left? The Black Patch™, various antennae...oh, yeah, a jig to hold the wings in position while the glue dries. Hmmm... Cheers, Bill
  2. 4 points
    Spent some time this afternoon sorting bits & pieces....... including rope work . I've seen several pics with the tow rope fixed with a shackle to the bow reinforcing plate, so................. Thought you might like to see how I make shackles (Good for you Tanky guys ) Start by annealing your brass rod so it can easily be bent to shape I clamp it in a vice so I can cut the two legs too the length I want Cut two small tubes by rolling knife on tube. Note clean the end square before cutting then you know the drill bit will slide in one end easily. These are held in position on the drill bit against the ' U '. Apply solder, in this case solder paint. Apply heat You should be left with this. By leaving the bit in whilst soldering you know the tubes are in a straight line and your closing rod will slide in easily. You can of course replace the rod with a bolt and with a suitable tap you can make a working shackle. I hold the shackle with the drill bit whilst filing back the tube to the right size The finished result When the rain stops I'll flatten the end to complete the pin I hope this is of some use to you out there and I'm not teaching you to suck eggs As always thanks for stopping by Kev
  3. 3 points
    The wing folds look particularly effective. As to Moaning Dolphin's suggestion that we use blended whisky as fuel, is he trying to fly the aircraft or poison it? Martin
  4. 3 points
    The "grommets" are the wing fold latch pin fittings. Before the wing is spread the locking lever is moved to the unlock position as shown below When the wing is spread the lever is pushed back up into the "Locked" position which pushes the four latch pins through the corresponding holes in the latch pin fittings. The black patch on the port drop is indeed for the landing light. I fired up 388's electrics late last year and the landing light lights up the tank quite well. Video here for those with Farce burk https://www.facebook.com/1510750749175428/videos/1596344360616066/?video_source=pages_finch_thumbnail_video&theater
  5. 3 points
    Hello,Bonhoff - Good for you and go for it!! My build of this subject isn't very good but it was good fun and an enjoyable occasional 'change of subject' model.Good luck and enjoy! All the best,Paul.
  6. 3 points
    In the late 1950s the Norwegian RF-84Fs were camouflaged according to the NATO Standardization Agreement No. 3083 "Colouring and markings of aircraft for Tactical Reconnaissance". The colours were specified to be NATO Dark Green and NATO Dark Grey on the upper surfaces and NATO PRU Blue on lower surfaces. The paint work was done by Avio-Diepen at Ypenburg, with paint manufactured by Sikkens. The actual paint numbers were Sikkens 2662 (NATO Dark Green), Sikkens 2340 NATO Dark Grey) and Sikkens 2602 (NATO PRU Blue). I would thus assume that the same colours were used on Dutch aircraft. Taking my FS fan to Gardermoen where an RNoAF Thunderflash is displayed (still in its original upper surface colours – the lower surfaces were painted aluminium in the early 1960) reveals that the colours matches FS24079 and FS26118. Other sources (assumedly an RF-84F at the Sola museum) describe the lower surfaces as FS25109. Note that although the RAF/MAP and the NATO colours had same/similar names, the hues were not the equal. When it comes to NATO Dark Grey, this is is closer to RAF/MAP Extra Dark Sea Grey than to Dark Sea Grey (but still different). Nils
  7. 3 points
    Cheers guys. Focus is now on bringing the bits to life. Here's some of the airfield stuff painted although still need a coat of matt varnish.
  8. 3 points
    Thanks Foxy glad you like it so far So another small update first layer of silicone on base sides primed and painted also gave the silicone a coat of black as an under coat then started with the colors various green, blue grey and white then set the ship into base at a slight list to Port side as not trawling any nets will leave to dry out now for a couple of days ans get back to starting on the other diorama my Vosper dockside Beefy
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    With the base coat done, it's on to the camo. It was masked off with silly putty, then sprayed with Tamiya buff and highlighted with Tamiya deck tan. This is the reason I'm not keen on adding too much modulation on camo finishes. It's easy to do on the base coat but then you have to repeat the highlighting on all the subsequent camo colours. Anyway, the sand's on. It's not highlighted as much as the green, but it'll do. Just the black to add now, then I can start on the weathering, and get it finished. Andy
  11. 2 points
    Classic case of buy cheap, buy twice Keith. The one upside is that I now know what the major airbrush issues are and how to bloody solve them.
  12. 2 points
    I was going to make a joke about not being able to refuse 8" but won't.
  13. 2 points
    Happy Australia Day (for yesterday).. Thanks Beefy.. I have got the lurgi so stayed at home all day yesterday and spent it mainly either sleeping or in the hobby room so I got lots of little fiddly bits done. First up, I attached the supports for the 20mms to the deck.. Then I attached the roof to the radar lantern.. After those two I attached the cage to the crows nest.. Then one of the vents on the stack.. And a little mast off that.. My new hedgehog set arrived during the week so I formed up the part I destroyed earlier and put it in position in the base.. Its the bit with all the slats... Then it was the turn of the 20mms to get their magazines fitted.. Here is a piccy showing the mast in position (but not glued yet).. Then I attached all the little pieces to the yard arm and installed it on the mast.. Then I tackled something I was dreading. one of the long ladders. This one goes up the stack, or will when I attach it.. And that was it except for a few other things I didn't photograph as they were very minor. Cheers Warren
  14. 2 points
    I love masking, you spend an hour playing with tape, 2 mins spraying the it's all pulled off in 30 secs! Got the erosion tape strips done during this process............ Shaun.
  15. 1 point
    So while I'm paused on the Bishop, I thought I should do something just for the fun of it.....These have been hanging around in the stash for ages: They're a bit gappy and I sense Milliput in my near future, but I reckon I might be able to extract some amusement from them! My working title for this project is "Achtundachtzig Kilometer pro Stunde!!".....You didn't honestly believe 'Emmett Brown' was his real name did you?
  16. 1 point
    Thank you I been working ion the rear section . The fold hinge / hydraulic Enjoy Rick
  17. 1 point
    Tracking the process ....you got good progress going on there.... Thanks to your assistants ....I got two kits purchased one is this and a cn-235. Hope to see yours done soon Best Regards
  18. 1 point
    Roden decals will succumb to the boiling water trick. Boil some water, dip a cloth or sponge in and press straight down (no sideways motion!). Don't forget to protect your tender fingies from the water.
  19. 1 point
    Could you turn the commander's head to the left so he is looking at the loader/tea maker: from the position of his right arm and hand it looks like he has just tapped on the side of the turret to attract his attention?
  20. 1 point
    I think those "grommets" are perfectly believable. What I find difficult to register is that all this stunning finesse is in 1/72 !
  21. 1 point
    Looks like a great finish. I think the camo scheme is well suited to this type.
  22. 1 point
    Hi, Thanks a lot Mates! Adding few details on the steering box: More soon. Pascal
  23. 1 point
    Oh don't worry I'll kick it into some sort of shape, but I am coming across so much that disappoints me I am tempted to throw a tarp over the turret and be done with it. I'll post a few pics of the horror tomorrow.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    If you do, just make sure that the control column position reflects that too. If it is slightly to one side or the other, then position the ailerons appropriately with the 'Up' aileron being the side that the control column (or spade in this case) is deflected towards. The same goes for the elevators, which normally fall under gravity and the stick / column would be seen forward of the neutral position. With regards to the Spitfire's ailerons, they were known as 'Frise' ailerons with the up-going aileron also showing part of the lower edge to the oncoming, higher pressure, airflow beneath the wing. This counters adverse yaw. The deflections on each side, up and down, were not quite the same either, with the up-going aileron deflecting slightly more than the downwards travelling aileron. But then, heck, what do I know? What I do know is that the painting and weathering is superb!
  28. 1 point
    Hello everybody , So .. for Giorgio, Ant and fellow readers : here is the answer : This is NOT a toy that you could use for " la bagatelle " as we say in French ... no ! no ! ( I'm pretty sure some readers had thoughts close to that , especially French ones !!! ) This is a hand vise for jewellers ( étau de bijoutier en français ) and ... why not for modellers ! it works like that : As you can see , it will help me with my Etendard's broken hook ! Cheers !
  29. 1 point
    I think #2 looks awesome, the giant gun really suits. #3 is cool too but feels a little bit top-heavy despite the beefy lower legs. It does give off a Thunderbolt vibe which is pretty cool Will
  30. 1 point
    Now that is how to build a Matilda - I like that a lot and hard to believe it's only 1:76 scale ... amazing!! Very well done!! :coolio: Kev
  31. 1 point
    Forgot to add, the decal options in the Tan kit were actually put together by the guy that runs Dutch Decal/Dutch Profile.
  32. 1 point
    Now that's just silly, do the lot in 1/72.....You KNOW that makes sense!
  33. 1 point
    It may be a struggle to sell weapons against the big boys but having products that people are interested in usually helps. The abovementioned Chieftain and Challenger tanks followed a philosophy (maximum protection and armament while sacrificing mobility) that not too many liked, reason why they sold in few countries. In those same years Germany sold large numbers of Leopard 1 and 2 tanks to many more countries showing how it's possible to compete with the US. Clearly the development of weapon systems designed closely around the needs of a single user has the advantage of giving such user the best but at the same time has the disadvantage of making such design less interesting to others with different needs. P.S. totally agree with Charlie on the Australian Seasprites, the Australians have a lot to be blamed for in this story
  34. 1 point
    No mate, I just got the A/B from Modelling tools site. Just the A/B plus larger cup, needle and nozzle. With being able to unscrew the cup when cleaning, it makes the whole job a lot easier. The nozzle assembly can be place in most thinners/cleaners. The seals are designed for that type of use, but I would not go to overboard though. I use IPA for acrylics, and cellulose for enamels/lacquers etc. I like to blow her through with some clean IPA after the cellulose though. I hope that is any use to you mate. Simon.
  35. 1 point
    Feeling seasick already Cheers K
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Thanks very much guys. Thanks very much sah! Well, I've ended up with the nose gear well in chromate green, the main gear wells are interior green. It's called hedging your bets! You are a laugh a minute aren't you That's exactly what I'm going to do. Shinier the better!Really getting into this build now, and I also have a halogen heater for the shed Al
  38. 1 point
    I can smell the boxes of flatties on ice from here. BTW and no relation to previous sentence; are your socks dry yet?
  39. 1 point
    +1 for the locking forceps Ced, I found some cheap under 'fishing supplies' on eBay... Cheers, Stew
  40. 1 point
    Well, my original plan was to build a mould (the same way I did the mock-up) to vacu-form the aft fuselage with fabric-over-skin effect and build some internals to fit that. But I am kinda leaning another way now... Finally got around to getting my hand on some actual styrene again, after brainstorming for a few days. I learned a few things from my mock-up, which was the whole point of making it. One thing was that I needed another rib about 1mm back from the last one and slightly steeper angle on the final tail bit (The red pencil marks on my drawing.) I made a new template for slightly smaller ribs. 1.25mm smaller to be precise. Made it by making a new template using the old one, and then first glueing in a strip of 1x1mm styrene, then a strip of 1x0.25mm styrene. Because that's the amount I need to move inwards for the whole tail to fit with the 1mm slats and 0.25mm skin attached. Glued with CA glue and sanded flush... The mock-up also helped me to figure out the size of the new internal frame. First I did a rough-ish sketch with the old frame as a guide... I scribed three parallel lines in a sheet of 2mm styreen at 29m and 21mm apart, and one vertical centerline in the middle, then took the measurements from my plans and transfered them to the styrenen by making points with my scribing needle and connecting the dots. After all the lines were scribed I rubbed in some paint. Then I repeated the whole thing, but mirrored... Tomorrow there will be a lot of drilling of holes and sawing... Joy... More soooon! Rob
  41. 1 point
    Thanks Simon. I tried the .4mm this afternoon, it kicks out paint like a mule, even at 10psi. Had to do the same as you and back it right off. I primed with the .2mm without an issue. Loving this airbrush though, its so much nicer to use than the splatter stick
  42. 1 point
    Nothing else to say apart from stunning. All the hard work and patience has reall paid off.
  43. 1 point
    I'm with Adrian, I love the curves of the Rafale. You did her justice!
  44. 1 point
    I can sympathize with you on that Foxy not the best time of year for us modelers that have to work in a cold garage at winter time hope you get thawed out and dried out soon mate Beefy
  45. 1 point
    Neat stand Ced. The Spit is coming together quite well. Oh, the forceps.. very handy for holding things when spraying, They are locking ones. Simon.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Agree that's most unusual. I never even knew it existed until a few minutes ago.
  48. 1 point
    I am making a little headway with this now. The cockpit parts have been sprayed the base colour. I just need to paint the details and add straps to the seats. I am still very impressed with the kit. The level of detail is great and the fit has been good. The photo above shows a sink mark flaw in the tail section, the only flaw I have come across so far. Unfortunate, but no kit is perfect I suppose!
  49. 1 point
    Great work so far! That cockpit does look real good! Re the paint scheme, I would not touch it with a barge pole... but that's only me! Now I have a silly question, which will be a dead give away in confirming that I was born a long time before the early seventies... What is a deviant web site? I would hate to let my imagination run wild on that one!!! Keep having fun! JR
  50. 1 point
    Good progress the detailing looks great. Guy
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