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    Didcot, Oxfordshire
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    Model making (obviously), Classic Honda motorcycles, Classic trucks, buses and aircraft.

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laurencecassidy's Achievements


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  1. Superb again Wilson, the pictures are really good, well done.
  2. Absolutely superb, I think the weathering is very realistic, very well done.
  3. Very nice, more so given the scale, well done.
  4. Thank you all for your kind words, I am sorry if the text was too long, but I took the easy way out and used the same text as I used for the article that I had written for a modelling magazine. There were no after market parts used on the model, other than the bits as described in the text. I am not sure if any parts are even available. I would like to make the Thunder models version, but did not realise that they had gone down. This model will be at our clubs show on the 2nd October, see the Abingdon IPMS website for details. Thanks again.
  5. Hi everyone, i hope that all of you have been enjoying the modeling during this last lockdown, and i hope that some of you have been able to go to some model shows now. One of my lockdown projects was the IBG Scammel recovery truck in 1/35th scale. The kit is fairly basic, but taking into account the cost, it is acceptable. I decided to add some extra detail to the chassis and the Gardner diesel engine, as there was a reasonable representation of this in the kit. Not long after I purchased the kit, I managed to purchase the booklet Army Wheels in Detail, Scammel Pioneer number AW18 from Capricorn Publications, at the Abingdon IPMS annual model show. I found this most useful for the detailing I wanted to do. The chassis assembly is straight forward, with no real issues (yet) about the fit of the parts. The front axle and rear swinging beam axles were fitted at a later stage. At this point I had not yet decided to add the brake rods etc. The engine came next. After initial assembly, I added a drive shaft between the front cover and a shaft running below the injection pump, based on a photo of under the bonnet of the real thing and from looking in the above mentioned book. This shaft drives the air compressor which is water cooled, so various pipes and coolant pipes had to be scratch built and added. The real engine has injectors inside the rocker cover, which is still sometimes the case on some modern truck diesel engines. I have a tin full of coils of copper and steel wire of different sizes, so a suitable diameter (about 0.4mm) section of steel pipe was cut from a coil. I then straightened it by rolling it between a hard surface and the flat of a steel rule, and cut into short lengths. Using a 0.5mm drill bit, I drilled some holes into the outlet tops of the injector pump. Holes were also drilled into the join between the cylinder head and rocker cover for each of the six cylinders. The pipes were then bent and trimmed and secured with super glue. There is a lever at the front of the pump which is the throttle linkage. This was made from a small piece of scrap PE, with a hole drilled through the top and bottom of the lever. It was attached by a pin to the pump through the bottom hole. The linkage then goes to another lever at the back of the pump, (also made from PE) which connects through some rods to the throttle pedal inside the cab. These rods were not added until the cab was in place and the rods attached to the bulkhead .There are some springs attached to these rods, but were too fine to accurately reproduce here, so they were omitted. Some extra pipes were added for the fuel lines from the pump to a scratch built fuel filter. On the right side of the engine is a water pump, which is spiral in shape. I found a bit in the spares box which looked similar, and it was adapted and added to the engine. When the engine and radiator were fitted, the top and bottom hoses were added, but you cannot really see those on the completed model. The chassis has a winch amidships, which is powered by a shaft from the gearbox. I coiled some medium thread around the winch cable drum before fitting it into the frame, which eventually came out through the two roller guides at the rear of the chassis. The winch clutch operating rod is on the top of the frame and locates into the back of the cab. The levers were once again made from PE and the rods of wire. There is a bracket on the chassis on the left side with a rod going to it, and there are some springs also attached to that side between the levers and brackets. I had a go at making the springs from fine copper wire tightly wound around a straight piece of thicker wire. It was not a resounding success but they are there, even if you cannot see them properly. Assembly continued from there. The rear swinging beam axles were assembled and the brake operating levers were made from wire, one for each of the four wheels. The linkages and brackets made from thin steel wire again. Apparently the Thunder Models version of the Pioneer has a lot of this included in the kit, along with a much more detailed engine. The axles themselves have no locating pins or pegs, or indeed anything to secure their location onto the rear road springs. This is one of the criticisms I have of the kit. I felt that these might be weak points and could break away from the springs easily, so I decided to pin them in place. I marked up their position and drilled a hole into the axle in the gap between the beams, up into the base of the spring, and pushed a steel pin through. Before cementing them in place, I had fitted the front axle, which has a road spring transversely mounted on top of the axle which then just sits in a central location on the underside of the frame. Unless you want the vehicle leaning on its suspension, ensure that axle is parallel to the frame. Then on fitting the rear axle assemblies, I temporarily fitted the road wheels to ensure all six wheels sat on the deck together .It seemed to have worked reasonable well anyway. The rest of the construction of the body parts and cab were again straight forward. I did not add any extra detail in the cab as the doors are fixed so not much can be seen inside. The rear body is just a series of boxes; I had thought of modifying one to be open but decided not to in the end. Once the body is mounted, the rear mudguards are PE which were easy to fit, but I found the mudguard stays, also in PE were a bit more difficult. There is a carrier bolted to the chassis at the front which holds up to seven balance weights. The majority of this frame is made from PE, which I found a bit tricky. The jib goes together easily after some cleaning up, and can be retracted or extended. The mechanism for extending the jib is a set of gears driven by a handle mounted on the box towards the front of the jib. It uses a chain to extend or retract the jib, and I managed to find some small chain in my spares box. This was attached to the top of the jib by a little PE bracket (a real pain these were) to the gearbox, then another length from the gearbox to the PE bracket at bottom of the jib. It was left slack as all the photos showed it like that. There is a cable guide on top of the jib, which IBG omitted, so one was fabricated out of scrap PE again. The spare wheel carrier is PE from the kit. There seems to be some differences between vehicles when you look at photos of them. Some have the spare wheel on the roof, some to the left of the body at the rear, (as with this kit), and some have it mounted centrally at the rear, when a triangular shaped towing bar is carried. I mounted the wheel in the position shown in the instructions, but when I get round to making another Pioneer, I will mount the wheel in the middle and scratch build a towing bar, as these were used extensively on civilian versions. The other criticism I have of the kit is the weak mounting points of the front mudguards. The mudguards turn with the front wheels, so are mounted to the top of the front hub by two stays that angle down and join the hub at one point. The mudguards have no real mounting points, you are expected to butt join them to the top of the stays. I thought these would be weak points and that I could be forever repairing them. So I cut some thin strips of spare brass from a PE set, and gently curved them to the shape of the underneath of the mudguard and down onto the stays. When a reasonable fit was achieved, they were cemented into place with superglue. The joints are now much stronger, but I think I may have moved the weak point down to the front hub where the stays are fixed on. Time will tell. After final assembly, the model had a couple of coats of Halfords grey plastic primer. The chassis had been painted before assembly in light olive, and the engine painted a blue/grey colour which is what original Gardner engines were. The injection pump and compressor below it were painted dull aluminium. The engine had been weathered with thinned down washes of dark brown and grey. The exhaust was given a coat of rust weathering powder and oil streaks with brown and black washes. The central winch was dry brushed with gunmetal, as was the cable. Chips and scratches were added in various colours including rust. But once again, not much is visible with the body in place. The body and cab were also given a coat of plastic primer, and then sprayed with Tamiya XF49 khaki. The contrasting colour of the camouflage was Tamiya NATO black, which is actually a dark grey (and is good for painting tyres.), was sprayed freehand for a soft edge. During the weathering stage, (the decals were applied before the weathering started), the khaki was much darkened by washes of thin black and dark browns. The NATO black areas were washed with a mix of lighter tones, greys and light stone for a streaked look. A thin black pin wash went over and into all the recesses, and then the high points were dry brushed with the base colour lightened by adding some white or light stone. A couple of coats of varnish were next. The dust accumulation on the bottom of the doors and panels is Humbrol dust wash, and is, in my view, very effective. A dust mix was also made from Humbrol weathering powders, equal parts of sand, white and dark earth. This was applied with a soft brush over the inside of the cab, inside of the rear body, the roof and the bonnet. The balance weights were painted in different colours, some being very faded and a couple were in desert yellow, as was one of the road wheels, just for a bit of variation. I have a thing about wheels and it could be argued I spend too much time on them. The tyre treads were picked out in a mixture of sand and dark earth weathering powders. The rims weathered with pin washes of darker versions of the base colour, and also chips of rust added around the rims and around each wheel not. The tyre walls are treated to a dust wash and accumulated in the area where the tyre meets the rim. The tool or equipment carrier box on the off side underneath the driver’s door had a few items added from the spares box. These were also brushed with the dusty mix powder. The netting slung over the body and part of the towing bar was just a little bit of bandage, in which I wrapped a thin piece of blue tack. This was then soaked in water and PVA glue and shaped over the bar to give it a heavy look. The whole thing was then given a couple more coats of matt varnish. As is usual, I mask off the area on the windscreen and give it a quick flick over with the airbrush with thinned light earth, although in some cases, matt varnish is sufficient. I decided to show in on a base. This was made of a piece of MDF, onto which I glued a piece of cork cut from a roll. This gives a nice rough texture a bit like concrete, which it was meant to be. The sandbag wall is a resin piece I picked up at one of the shows, not sure when or where! The cork was sprayed white, black and then with a bit of yellow and all sorts of colours brushed, dabbed on with a sponge and whatever else was around. I originally had a “captured” BMW motorcycle slung on the back of the Scammel, but changed this to a Bronco Triumph 350 dispatcher’s bike. That had a damaged front wheel, not done deliberately, as I had difficulty in assembling it with the, (you have guessed it) PE spokes! Whilst assembling the Triumph, a small piece of the rear carrier shot away from the sprue when being removed. No amount of searching ever revealed it, so I had to fabricate one from the steel wire. Fortunately it fitted ok and cannot really be noticed on the finished model. Another victory for the carpet monster The Triumph was going to be shown standing against the sandbag wall, but it was swapped for the BMW, which is now being repainted from German camouflage to olive green. The damaged wheel is in the back of the truck. Altogether, the model was quite enjoyable to make, despite its small shortcomings. I will at some stage in the future purchase another, maybe the Thunder Models version, but this one will be in civilian colours. Laurence Cassidy. #
  6. An excellent piece of work, very well done.
  7. Hi all, I hope you are all keeping well and safe. During the lockdown last year, I like many of you, made a few models from the stash to clear the way. This is my offering of the Meng kit of the Husky MRAP used by our forces in places like Afghan and others. The kit is very nice to make, this is the second Meng kit I have made, the other being the Cougar six wheel US MRAP troop carrier. It all goes together very well without any serious issues at all. I am not a fan of rubber tyres, but I have my own method of dealing with them, as I have had some problems in the past with painting them. I always give them a good scrub with hot, soapy water, and when dry, I coat them in either Johnsons Kleer/Future, or Humbrol Clear acrylic lacquer. When this is completely dry, I paint them, normally with Tamiya NATO black, which is actually dark grey and is a good colour for rubber. When weathered with washes and powders, a couple of coats of Humbrol matt lacquer seals it all in. By following this method, I have found that the tyres do not go shiny again after a few months, which was the problem I had some time back. The detail inside the vehicle is quite good, and I added some clutter in the load area as well as the interior. Humbrol desert tan was used as the top coat and weathering done with washes and powders. I find that a mix of dark earth, sand and white powders gives a very good representation of dust. Again, a few coats of matt varnish after, gives the model a nice, consistent finish. Thanks for looking and happy modelling and keep safe.
  8. I am in complete and utter awe at your modelling skills. Exceptional.
  9. Hi all, I hope that everyone is keeping healthy and safe. I have not posted anything for some time, so I thought I might show a couple of models made in the first lockdown. This is the 1/24th scale Land Rover from Revell. It is a basic kit that goes together quite well, and at least has a reasonable representation of the engine. The engine was detailed with pipes and HT leads, and with the addition of a coil. I was thinking of opening either the tailgate, one of the doors or a window. However, although these would be possible at the hands of an experienced model maker, I decided not to try as there would be too much work involved. There are some options as to regards the seating, and also for left or right hand drive versions, and of course I chose the RHD version. Once the body had been sprayed with my usual Halfords plastic primer, it was ready for the first top coat. I had chosen a Land Rover colour from the Zero paints range, (Warwick Green). This was applied by airbrush. Disaster! The paint went all crinkly to the extent that I thought it had melted the plastic. I checked on the Zero paints website and Halfords primer is approved. I looked on the BM website and found that another model maker had exactly the same problem with Zero Warwick Green on the same model Land Rover. His photo could have been the one that I had taken. I managed to get all the paint off by rubbing down and also using brake fluid as a paint stripper. The plastic was OK, so the paint had reacted to the primer. I doubt I shall use Zero paints again, has anyone else has a similar experience? I resprayed the body with enamel paint, as I had decided to base the vehicle on a local one. Amey Roadstone had a laboratory in the village where I used to live, and they had several vehicles, vans, cars and Landy's, for staff to visit construction sites and roadworks. The old Amey site is housing now, but that is progress! The vehicle was weathered using Humbrol weathering powders and home made pin washes, and the decals are home printed. As the body of Land Rovers are made from aluminium, no rust would appear, only on the wheels and bumpers. The figure holding the dipstick is a modified Revell German firefighter from an old set I was given some time ago. The other figure (the manager with hands in pockets, as usual), is from a set of pre made figures from EBay, but is actually 1/25th scale. So after the issue of the paint, I enjoyed making this in the end, but that is what it is about, eh. I do not normally make vehicles in 1/24th scale, but have recently finished the Belkits Mk.1 Escort rally car, I will post that on here sometime soon. Happy modelling and stay safe.
  10. Hej Tiking, this is absolutely stunning, I am into weathering on trucks myself, but this is way beyond anything I have seen before. I aspire to be able to do something like this. Very well done. Laurence.
  11. Gentlemen, thank you for your kind words. Just to confirm the model is 1/35th scale and the basic kit was the IBG QLD cargo version. The QL was not a large vehicle by todays standards, but was quite large in its day. But stand it next to a Matador, and the Mattie dwarfs it, its a real big boys toy!!
  12. Hello all, continuing my interest in wreckers and recovery vehicles, here is my latest conversion. It is bases on the IBG Bedford QLD, with some modifications and with a scratch built Harvey Frost type crane. The design of the crane was from a photo on the internet, and dates from 1936-8. However it would not be unusual for an ex wartime vehicle to be fitted with an older, refurbished crane. Most of the frame and crane on the model were built from evergreen plastic product. The gears and cogs are once more from my favourite place, the insides of an old travel alarm clock. The garage name on the model is real, it is where I did an apprenticeship in the 1960's, before going to work for a large and well known oil company in their research centre. I have always worked around vehicles and engines all my working life, maybe this explains my interest in HGV and military vehicles (along with classic motorcycles, buses and cars). We did have a recovery truck at the garage, the first one was an old Bedford O series with a hydraulic crane. I intend to make this sometime using the 1/24th scale Emhar Bedford. We had a QL which was later turned into a snow plough along with an ex WD Ford forward control 4x4 with a V8 petrol engine. The later trucks (after my time) were on Bedford TK chassis with hydraulic cranes. All of these were in the dark blue with a white roof. The same garage later had a fleet of Volvo trucks under the name of Berkshire Vale Transport, and they were the same colour. The model is painted with Tamiya acrylic paints and weathered with Humbrol powders. I always use Halfords plastic primer, and have recently tried their matt lacquer, which for a rattle can gives an excellent finish. Recommended. I have two more wrecker kits in the stash, the IBG Scammel and the new Mirror Models Chevrolet CMP light wrecker. One or both of these will be in civilian guise. Many thanks for looking.
  13. Hi all, I have taken a break from making wreckers from military vehicles, (although another one is nearly finished- a Bedford QL), and wanted to do something else. I have had this Revell Maultier in the stash for some time so I thought I would just do it out of the box. It does go together reasonably well, I think this is not actually a Revell tooling but is "box engineering" as they say. I think it might be a Zvezda offering, correct me if I am wrong. Anyway, there are some small fiddly parts and the carpet monster claimed a few, but I finally got there. Sometimes I think I should cut off all the small parts from the sprue, door handles, grab handles and the like and just throw them all on the carpet, as that is where they seem to end up. What I can then find OK- the rest I will have to make! I normally like to include a load in the back of trucks, as I think it is more interesting. In this case I had a BMW sidecar outfit in the stash, and a Zundapp solo motorcycle. So they went in. It is finished with Tamiya paints and weathered with Humbrol washes and powders. At some point in the future I might make a base for it. My modelling days will need to take a backseat in the next few weeks as the better weather arrives, as I have a 1 to 1 scale Honda CB400 four to get sorted for the summer. Apologies, some of the photos have gone in twice, which demonstrates how I am good at doing things that I do not know how I did! Anyway all for now and thanks for looking.
  14. Andy, I have to agree with all the other members, this model is truly outstanding. I have one of these and was going to start it in the new year, and if it looks half as good as yours, I will be pleased. This is my kind of model, very well done to you sir!
  15. Hi all, on a wet and windy Wednesday afternoon in August, (what do we expect, it is the school holidays after all!). As mentioned in one of my previous posts, here are some (mostly older) models that have been modified in some way. The first, which is the oldest, is a Model T Ford converted to an ice cream van by scratch building the body with plastic card. It is the old Airfix car kit, which in itself is basic but lends itself easily to make vans, trucks etc. It is completely hand painted as there were no options to print decals when I made this. The most remarkable thing about it, is that it still exists after being made in 1979. The second is another breakdown vehicle. This one was converted from the Airfix/Max 1/32nd CMP gun tractor kit. The original intention was to cut down the armoured body, but Airfix supplied the original type cab, so I used that instead. The crane and body are scratch built, and most of the markings were hand painted, but it has gone through a small restoration recently, so the "White Horse Garage" is now decal. But the white horse is again hand painted (like it was on the Albion breakdown truck I posted recently). This was made in 1980, and a photo of it appeared in Scale Models magazine. Last, although the kit is old, I only made this a couple of years ago. It is a breakdown vehicle converted from the Airfix "Monty's Humber". The body and crane are again scratch built. It is attending to a broken down Triumph Herald, also an old Airfix kit. The figures are modified from the ESCI partisans resistance set, also quite long in the tooth! Well its still raining so I can get out of cleaning the windows for now. Many thanks for looking. CMP Breakdown Humber light recovery. If nothing else this proves my skills have not got much better in over 30 years of modelling!
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