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Showing most liked content on 13/07/13 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Inspired by Artur's miniature I decided to build my own Su-22. I used Eduard's kit (in fact KP with some etched parts and resin cockpit interior). OOB, without any modifications,except decals for polish aircraft ..and a few pics from the building:
  2. 4 points
    Russian Udaloy Class Destroyer The Vice-Admiral Kulakov, pics thanks to Panzer Vor.
  3. 4 points
    Desert Snake Hi mates, here are some pictures of my last year finished Airacobra from Eduard. I`ve used the old but great Profipack with photoetched parts, Express Masks and no less than 6 different variants of paint shemes. Additional I used both CMK accessories for engine compartment and front armarment. The model you see represents an aircraft of 346. FS, 12.AF, Noth Africa.The 346. was the last USAF unit using the P-39 in Europe. Only used as an attack aircraft, as this type didn`t rocks as dogfighter against german fighter ! The built was pure fun and gone straight forward! Only minor mods are necessary to convert this model to a L-1-BE type. A wonderful source with all necessary informations is Book No. 6129 of MMP`s Yellow Serie. [/url]
  4. 3 points
    Oookay, finally calling it done. (Though now I look at my photos, it truly does needs the nav lights at the wingtips.....one final doddle. But no more pics - it's safely in the cat-proof Detolf now!) Lee, thanks a million for the great idea!!
  5. 2 points
    Operation Harmattan Libya 2011 Revell 1/48th kit [/url]
  6. 2 points
    Hello Folks, I`ve always wanted to build a model of the earliest Wessex `Junglie' version which were specially stripped out HAS.1 anti sub versions that were painted overall Light Stone and rushed out to Borneo to replace the Whirlwind Mk.7 `Junglie`s' which were operating from primitive jungle heli pads. My original intention was to use the Revell Wessex HAS.3 kit but when Italeri announced that they were doing the same version I held out for one of these instead and here is the result, backdated to HAS.1 status and depicting XP142/J `Mr. Jinks' of 845 NAS, which was later converted to HAS.3 status and went on to become the famous `Humprey' of Falklands fame and now resides in the Fleet Air Arm Museum! Here is the build thread; http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234942543-48th-scale-wessex-has1-junglie/ The `Mr Jink`s' artwork inside the red circle on the nose is hand painted, as is the 845 NAS insignia although a very kind Britmodeller (Dave!) has done me some decal replacements which are on their way from the USA,...what a kind bloke! Two of the emergency escape windows have been opened up to let a bit of cool air in and a `Gimpy' GPMG from the Airfix Lynx kit has been mounted in one of them. Anyway enough blurb,...here is the model; And here is it again with my next Junglie lurking behind, the Italeri Wessex HU.5! Hope you like it, All the best Tony O
  7. 2 points
    Just finished the build this week. I used the canopy and gear legs from the Heritage Aviation kit, Quickboost wheels and exauhsts, Aeroscale decals for the markings and custom decals for the prop:
  8. 2 points
    Built from the box with the exception of a Wolfpack MB Mk4 ejection seat. I think this is Kinetic's best so far although the instructions are still lacking in places. I can't wait for a C.1 especially as Furball Aero have a sheet for USN/USMC F-21's coming out. Stephen
  9. 2 points
    OK , this is a prime example of what I did a rant about earlier in the year. Why some people feel it is so necessary to boost their own ego's by pointing out a inadequacy on someones build that isn't even the fault of the builder is beyond me. Why would it be necessary to anybody's benefit to say the tail wheel is 5 degrees off ? Only the most anal of builders would even know or even come close to caring. All this type of so called accuracy information does is detract from an otherwise AWESOME build. It behooves no one to point out these flaws in open forum on someone else's build. If you want to point out inaccuries then build it yourself and review your own build to point out the flaws. Great build Dave! It certainly doesn't need to be detracted from by anal-ytical B.S.
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    Hi all, Esci 1/48 Saab Viggen. Back end of the 80's I paid £1.98 at Poundstretcher for the kit and its been stashed for almost 26 years so decided to build it. A tin of paint today cost me £1.60 and the ejector seat £6. Brian.
  12. 2 points
    I rattled this together in between the paint passes on my Fokker D.XXI. I painted it in the variant that the old tool Zero was supplied in as I had those decals spare from an old Techmod sheet. However, these decals were so fragile that they started breaking apart just if I looked at them the wrong way, so I had to resort to painting the Hinomarus (no big deal - a red circle) as well as the blue stripes. The fuselage sash was the tricky one and it ain't perfect by a long shot, but it'll do. It'll have to! My only gripe with this kit is the canopy framing. Not only is the framing too thick, but it has large radius curves in the corners making it impossible to mask properly unless you have a pre-cut mask, like Eduard's - which I did. Other than that, a great little fun kit!
  13. 2 points
    My best wishes to all the staff, hope they all find employment soon, it must have been a difficult few weeks for them all.
  14. 1 point
    Hello all, after a bit of umming and arring I have decided to do a WIP for this kit.It has taken a long while to get to this point so far, the kit was quite seriously marred by warping of the two decks, both hull halves and the two long interior hangar walls. That meant my newly purchased clamps came in for some serious use when I was putting together the side stations that are visible through the hull openings (to get the walls attached to the deck and the rooves to the walls). I have the White Ensign etch set for this and there are plenty of bits to add I must say. The first parts were for the Atlantic/Pacific boats (called both in the WEM instructions) and this was not as complex as the etch for the RHIB's on the Type 45 were. It still added some good detail though. I also removed the moulded ventilation grilles from the hull sides, chain-drilling small holes then using an etched saw from Airwaves (I think) to join the dots and remove the plastic. WEM suggested fitting some plastic sheet behind the resulting gaps and paint them white, but I felt that even 5thou card might have been a bit thick, so I used some inkjet copy paper cut just oversize and then super-glued that to the hull interior instead, followed by a bead of thinned white glue to give it a bit more 'stickability'. None of the glue soaked into the paper too much and did not discolour the paper when seen from the outside of the hull. The hangar deck had a pronounced droop forward when I tried to fit it to the ledges on the interior, and the hull sides also needed coaxing, and finally I needed about another three hands to keep it all in place while to glue set so I had to think of another tack (sorry!). I taped both hull halves and the hangar deck together and ran a thick bead of medium CA along a short section of deck/hull join followed by some accelerator and that seemed to do the trick. I finished one side (after gluing my nail to the hull - I did not think when I was holding the part tightly to ensure alignment!) and left it for a day to harden (having released myself of course), then the following day I got the other half sorted. I was worried the hull might have 'corkscrewed' due to all the pressure and tensions put on it when I was taping up the joints, but when I managed to find a large flat surface, it sat true - thank goodness for that! The stern transom then took three evenings to get right. I am not sure if the above shot shows up the issues with warping, but to my eye the hull sides are not true, certainly the hangar wall is wobbly and I cannot imagine that she was built with that kink in the sides. I have dry fitted the flight deck, and this next shot may give an idea of what I have to deal with next. It will not be insurmountable really and in some ways I may have made a big deal out of it. Even though the deck is balanced on a sanding pad, there is a pronounced non-straightness. When the deck is in place on the ship, it still goes up and down, and there are large gaps along the sides. So I will be gluing this in stages, which is something I have never even considered doing before in my goodness knows how many years of modelling. I will need plenty of tape and cocktail sticks to ensure the deck does not get damaged by the glue (another thing learnt from the magazines). I would like to do this one full hull, and the lower hull does seem to join reasonably well except in one area near the bow, but if I feel I cannot get the joint good enough I will have to do another seascape. But where would I put it! I have never had issues with warps on kits before and was taken aback a bit, but I was not surprised as I had read on BM from a few others that they had the same issue. I have overcome worse problems with models though, especially a short shot part: I managed to sort that so: I was given Illustrious by a couple I had done a favour for, and I really want to do it justice. I know I have had issues with the warping, but now that is virtually out of the way I think all should be okay now, just needing to remember to add the etchwork in the right places. I spent a very enjoyable evening cross referencing the Airfix and WEM instructions to figure that out. This is going to be a long build I think, so any thoughts and recommendations will be appreciated. Thanks for reading this, all the best everyone. Kind regards, Ray
  15. 1 point
    I picked up this at the weekend as a distraction from review builds and reviews, as it's ages since I've built anything just for my own pleasure. This is a Cyber Hobby Orange boxing of the Dragon (Trimaster?) kit of the proposed Bomber Destroyer that was fitted with a 50mm Bordkanone 5 in the nose. Only two prototypes were finished before the end of hostilities, and the box top artwork shows a drab RLM 81 with RLM82 spinter pattern on the wings, over RLM76. That late in the war, I'd have thought that a bare metal finish under the wings would be more likely, but what do I know? I'm in the market for a more interesting colour scheme, as the 262 is one of my favourite looking of the early jets. Putting a big fat cannon on the front of it just appeals to my sense of "wrong", so I treated it to one of Master's excellent turned brass and aluminium examples off eBay. I also had a cheapo Zoom! set of Eduard PE that was meant for a nachtjager, so I pressed the front half of that into service. I also killed two birds with one cannon shell and built up a set of the new Eduard "fabric" seatbelts, which took a while, but paid off. It allowed me to write the review with more conviction into the bargain, which is nice The cockpit of this ageing kit is a little rough and not very ready. The tub is nothing more than a section of tube with front and rear bulkheads built in, and some very sketchy detail moulded in. There were tooling marks and ejector pin marks all over the show, and the bases for the side consoles were a bit narrow, so I skinned those with some 0.1mm styrene sheet patterned from a masking tape template. The floor was also given a little extra care & attention, plus a new cross-board in front of the rudder pedals, which were replaced with some early LionRoar examples from the stash. Some of the detail was removed to accomodate the PE, which was pre-painted a not especially convincing colour. Once I'd painted the cockpit I touched in the grey with my shade, so it blends in better (I think?). I also added some lead wire to the rear of the instruments, which has been largely a waste of time and effort, after seeing the part in place I squished the control column's grip and have carved a new one from styrene rod, which is sitting beside me now waiting for the glue to cure, after which it will be painted up... again The nose gear bay had some tricky looking ejector pin marks, so those were filled with punched styrene circles and sanded flush (enough) before being painted. The kit includes a couple of PE sheets in some tough ferric blend of metal that really doesn't like to be cut or bent. Curiously enough, most of that is used in constructing the main gear bay, so that was built up after some seriously aggressive clean-up of the styrene parts, which were 'orrible. They were glued in the lower wing, primed, painted, varnished and washed, then matted down. I also built up the nacelles for the engines, electing not to use the extra sprues of Jumo engines for the stripped down option that's included with the kit along with a couple of mechanics and a stepped platform. The fit of these parts wasn't the best, but it's nothing that some CA and sanding sticks can't sort out, although some minor rescribing looks to be on the cards. These are currently setting up with CA in the joints, waiting for me to create a haze of styrene dusk at some point in the near future. I'm considering riveting the entire airframe once I've built up the fuselage, as there's not a massive amount of surface detail on the kit, as it's quite an old one. It's also got some horrible rubbery tyres and quite nice styrene hubs, which I'm trying not to use, but I'm also trying not to spend much money on it, as it's an old kit. If anyone's got any good ones that they have no need for, I'd be happy to negotiate their release I've added a few tabs to strengthen the obvious underside seams of the fuselage, and the wing joints, but these are going to need some adjustment, as the wall thickness is extremely variable all over the kit due to the old skool techniques used for tooling back then. Enough waffle - here's a pic of everything sat together. Looking forward, I think I've still got a lot of work to do, as the inspection panel covering the cannon breech fits where it touches. I think the guy that tooled the part was told there was a kit being tooled, but not about the dimensions. The landing gear could be interesting, but I'm sure I'll manage. Then there's the colour scheme - I'd prefer not to do the kit scheme, so if anyone's got any ideas, I'm all ears I guess it would have been easier to just buy the newer Hobby Boss kit, but this was just staring at me from the shelf, looking all forlorn with its partially crushed box and simple artwork. "buy me a cannon" it said, and I did. I'm impressionable like that
  16. 1 point
    Hi Here are a few shots from a roasting Duxford today. My favourite act was The Horsemen in the three Spitfires. Thanks for looking.
  17. 1 point
    Kit: 1/72 Eduard "Profi Pack" White 07, 566th SHAP, Leningard 1944 Paints: Gunze/Mr.Hobby Decals: Kits own Thanks for your interest! Cheers from Vienna, Austria Roman Schilhart
  18. 1 point
    Hi everybody, I've just finished H.B.'s F9F2-P Panther, 1/72 nd scale. A very pleasant kit to put together, almost no sanding paper nor putty were used . H.B. proposes 2 gloss sea blue painted Panthers from VC-61, the unit that operated thes planes during the Korean conflict, in 1951 I chose to represent my model with folded wings and lowered stabilators : I added weight in the nose, the seat belts to the seat and the FODs : My gloss sea blue was toned down by using semi-gloss acrylic varnish . The decals were "sensitive" and concentration was needed to put them to the right places without deteriorating them . Personnaly, I think the windshield and the canopy sit too high compared to the pictures of the real planes, but tht's all right, I had a lot of pleasure to put it together an I hope more NAVY planes from that period of time will be released by H.B. Critics and comments always welcome, Cheers, Pierre
  19. 1 point
    This was roughly the equivalent of the F86D Sabre as both were radar equipped single seaters flown in 1949. Although about the same size physically it was much lighter and had less power, having the Russian equivalent of the Nene. Performance was quite good but it was let down by handling problems at high speed, landing problems in a crosswind and by the radar. Two prototypes were flown, this represents the second, but no production orders were placed. The kit went together quite well, not quite as easily as the other Prop & Jet kits, with some fiddly bits associated with the landing gear. One retraction strut for the main u/c could only be fitted (by me!) by tacking it to a toothpick and inserting it into the depths of the wheel well. Once glued the toothpick had to be broken off and the rough bits attacked with various implements. The outrigger wheels look very fragile and easy to break off. The kit is no longer available from Prop & Jet but Linden Hill still lists it (as of Sept 2013). A-model have produced a plastic version. It would be interesting to compare the two John
  20. 1 point
    Mig-29 9-13 Fulcrum C 1:48 Great Wall Hobby The Mig-29 is arguably one of the most iconic of the Cold War Russian jets, and probably one of the most frequently seen at Western airshows since the dissolution of the Soviet Union. Its origins began deep in the cold war, when it was designed as a "lightweight" Tactical Fighter, replacing the Mig-23 and having the capability to go up against any fighter aircraft of the day. It entered service in 1984 and has been so ever since, with the former Soviet Union aircraft being taken over by Russia, and its satellite countries retaining theirs for the most part. After the reunification of Germany in 1991 the East German Migs were integrated with the Luftwaffe, following some alterations to make them more NATO friendly. The Fulcrum C is similar to the original production run, but has a large spine extension containing additional fuel to increase its range, and a jamming system for self-defence. It also has more provision for external fuel tanks on the wing pylons, upgraded radar, plus other systems and weapons upgrades. The number of variants that have been fielded over the years is quite staggering, including some "home-brew" variants requested or made by purchasers at the time of buying, or later. This should give the GWH plenty of scope for alternative versions as time goes by. The Kit This is the second edition of the Mig-29 that GWH have produced, the original being an earlier 9-12, which sold out incredibly quickly in the UK, and I believe is now becoming tricky to get hold of. The key here is "don't delay", as this one is likely to prove as popular as the earlier kit, and knocks the Academy kit into the proverbial "cocked hat" in terms of detail and fidelity. The box is a large one by dint of the so-called lightweight fighter being a large aircraft, but also because of the way it is presented. Lifting the lid reveals a large white box within the top, and inside there is the upper fuselage, protected from harm by the additional packaging, a wrap of foam sheet to protect the prominent engine humps and a pair of foam wedges that prevent the fuselage from shimmying around in the box. Under there is another piece of packaging, which is a two-part vacuum-formed container for the six missiles, held together by a number of friction fit pegs and recessed in the middle. There are three large sprues and eight more of varying sizes, all in a medium grey styrene, as are the aforementioned missiles. A set of clear parts are double-bagged for protection, and the large clear canopy has a further sheet of light adhesive material applied to the outer surface to prevent any scratches or chaffing in transit, attesting to GWH's care in packing their products. A small fret of Photo Etch (PE) brass is included, plus a small sheet of acetate, pre-printed with the shape of the HUD glass, two sheets of decals, a print of the box artwork (which is excellent) in a plastic folder, and the instruction booklet are found in the bottom of the box, together with a pair of cover-sheets in yellow for the decals, which were (oddly for GWH) unwrapped, and both cover-sheets had come adrift. First impressions. Well, if you've seen the original release, you know exactly what to expect. The detail is excellent, and it's surprising to see just how much they've managed to cram into the visible internal areas such as the wheel bays and cockpit. Surface detail is just as you'd expect for a high-grade newly tooled kit, utilising slide-moulding to add value, and the overall package just exudes quality. Construction starts with the K-36DM ejection seat, which is built up from ten styrene parts and seven PE parts including a set of seat harnesses, with four decals supplied for the head-box area. The rest of the cockpit is built up from individual faces to maximise the detail, and the sidewalls are further detailed by the addition of extra parts for the side-consoles and structural members. A detailed painting guide accompanies these steps, and a full set of instrument dial decals are included to finish off the nice 3D instrument panel, which incidentally has the older analogue cockpit appropriate to the mark. The instrument coaming is moulded into the upper fuselage part, but don't let that put you off - it is well detailed and has a PE HUD assembly into which the clear acetate HUD glass goes later in the build. The cockpit slots into the fuselage from below, and you are given options of posing the canopy open or closed, with a styrene ram included for the former, and PE rear-view mirrors arranged around the forward hoop of the canopy. The prominent IR sensor that projects from the front of the windscreen is provided with a clear cover, and detailed painting instructions are given for the representation of the equipment within. All the clear parts are crystal clear and well moulded, with no seam on the canopy, which I'm sure will please many (self included). The turtle-deck behind the pilot is decked-out with a large sloped sided box that is festooned with knobs & dials that will show-up nicely under the canopy, so will need careful painting to do it justice. The large upper fuselage is exceptionally well moulded, with detail all over it that is right up there with the best. A pair of sprue-runners protects the wing-tips and the static-wick on the trailing edge, and a sprue-bridge holds the tail extension booms rigid. The large "Fatback" spine extends between the engine bulges terminating smoothly right in front of the exhausts, and if you look carefully you can see a neatly "nipped" injection moulding sprue gate that will need a deft flick with a sanding stick to smooth it off before painting. There are also a pair of small bumps on the mating surface between top and bottom, next to the auxiliary intakes, which initially appear to be "stealth" sprue gates, but have corresponding depressions in the lower fuselage half to accommodate them, so don't be tricked into removing them to improve the fit between the two halves. Either side of the cockpit are two large auxiliary intakes that open automatically when the mesh intake guards come down, allowing the engine to ingest (hopefully) clean air when operating from a rough or poorly prepared airfield without ruining the engines. There are holes in the upper fuselage that accept either closed louvers or open louvers, depending on whether the engine is idle or ground-running, respectively. To the aft of the rectangular hole is a recessed section which accepts a small PE part with three sections of mesh etched in. The lower fuselage is equally well moulded, but has a large number of holes for gear bays, engine bays etc., plus the upper section of the twin intakes. The detail on the lifting-body central section between the intakes is very well rendered, with some deeply set grilles that look excellent. The gear bays are made up from separate faces, as mentioned earlier, and here the detail is reminiscent of resin casting, rather than styrene injection. The nose gear bay is made up from a single central part that incorporates the roof and forward and aft bulkheads, plus separate side panels, while the main bays don't have end bulkheads per se, but shelve away into nothing. The detail on the roof is superb, with rib-work on the topsides that will be seen through the auxiliary intakes if you pose them open. There are some ejector pin marks to clean up on this part though, but you can't complain as the detail on the bay side is unblemished as a result, and only some will feel need to fill them. If you're in that faction, you'll be pleased to know that they're on the edges, and easy to access. Decide for yourself whether they'll even be seen though. Here's where the ingenious design of the intakes comes into play, but I'm sure it won't appeal to everyone. The roof of the intake is moulded into the lower fuselage, and the rest of the intake is built up from two halves split vertically, which mate to grooves in the lower fuselage, creating a broadly circular tunnel. If you want to pose your model on the ground, you can insert the FOD guards and blank off the interior forever, but if you plan on posing it with engines on or in flight, you will need to add the retracted FOD guards within the intake trunk, and clean up a lot of seams and ejector pin marks. The fact that the Fulcrum has built-in guards is just gravy to your average modeller that hates sanding seams in tricky positions, which becomes tedious very quickly. Thank you Mikoyan! The deployed parts are of course thicker than the retracted PE parts, but the detail is very good, although you forego the see-through look of the mesh in the process. I don't see many people losing sleep over that, but if you wanted to, you could bend the PE parts appropriately using the plastic parts as a template a1nd secure them carefully with the use of tabs within the intake trunk. Joining the upper and lower fuselage shouldn't be too taxing unless you're shoe-horning in extra resin details, and at this point you can add the slats, ailerons and flaps, posed at any sensible angle of your choice. The large elevators slot into the sides of the tail, with a sharply angled axis, just like the real thing, while the twin tails, which have caused some problems in the real world, are single-thickness parts with a separate rudder and some tiny auxiliary parts. Forward and slightly outboard of the fin fillets are the fins in which you'll find the chaff and flare dispensers to confuse and avoid enemy missiles. The fins have inserts for the tube detail, or they can be fitted with blanks for those aircraft that don't have the capability installed. Another bone of contention amongst modellers is next, and that bone is the provision of engines with the kit. The pro argument is simple - it's additional detail that goes to add extra visual interest to your model. The detractors argue that the parts are un-needed, most modellers will close up the bays and consign them forever to darkness. Whichever side of the fence you come down on, you will have to admit that the detail include on these engines is excellent, and again more like resin than injection moulded styrene. With a surprisingly small number of parts (17) they build up with highly detailed exhaust petals, a rear fan with stator blades as separate parts, and a detailed afterburner ring. Cleverly, they have avoided the use of halves where the seams will be seen on the inside, instead using short cylindrical parts between the rear of the engine and the exhaust petals. The engine body is split in half, but only the outside seam will be seen, with much of one of them covered with auxiliary equipment. The exhaust inner and outer petals are made up from a central ring with two sides attached, to which the other quadrants are glued to make up the whole. Again, detailed painting guides you through the whole process, and a small engine trestle is supplied with the kit in case you wanted to show one motor outside the aircraft. Ideally a replacement dummy "tube" and spare exhaust would have been provided too, but that would all have added to the cost of the kit. Both engines slot into the lower fuselage and are optionally covered by their cowlings, which has rudimentary rib detail moulded into the inner face, although again there are some ejector pins to deal with if you elect to include them nearby. The nose cone is a separate part from the fuselage halves, and is added later in the build along with its pitot probe and smaller sensors bristling from the nose area. At the opposite end, the rear-mounted air brakes clamshell around the "microphone" sensor suite in either open position with their retraction jacks, or closed, consigning the jacks to the spares box. The landing gear is of course very well detailed and builds up from a larger than average number of parts to offer the best detail, which is to be applauded, as it is the small details that give a better illusion of reality IMHO. The wheels and hubs are separate parts, and the tyres have lovely detail moulded in that is again worthy of resin, even as far as the maker's name and data-plate on the sidewalls. A slight flat is moulded into the bottom of each tyre to better portray the weight of the aircraft on its wheels, but not so extreme as to have you reaching for the compressor to give them some more air. The nose-wheel has the usual mud-guard seen on many Soviet aircraft, and the louvers have been slide-moulded for fidelity. The gear bay doors are similarly details, and the main doors have landing lights with clear lenses added along with the actuator jacks. Happily, for those that like to model their aircraft in their natural environment, a set of alternative parts are included to pose the gear bay doors closed, which just begs for a diorama of one of those low-flying demos the reality of which are oft debated on the forums. The Fulcrum is well appointed for both weapons and additional fuel, with a large tank in a semi-permanent position between the engines and the potential for two more on the inner pylons on the wings. The central tank is split horizontally, and has separate nose and rear parts, plus retention lugs, attaching to the lower fuselage by two large pins. The 9-13 has three hard-points on the wings and you can choose to mount additional fuel or a pair of Vympel R-27R Alamo missiles with their distinctive forward canted fins. The outer pylons seat a quartet of R-73R Archers, and again with all these missiles, GWH have been clever. Each one is moulded on a separate sprue as a single part, using slide moulding to obtain detail on all sides, as well as each end. The four mould seams are set diagonally, as are the sprue gates, so that the seams run along the lines of the fins, minimising clean-up. The moulds are also very tightly tooled, resulting in very fine seam lines that won't take long to clean up at all. The result is a clean, detailed missile with a lot more strength to its construction, whilst avoiding all the fiddly separate fins and associated alignment issues. Given the probable expense of tooling these parts, one can only assume that GWH have more variants of the Mig-29 or some other Russian subjects in mind. Whatever the case, they have introduced a new (to me at least) and intelligent approach to tooling missiles and ordnance, which is the weak point of many a model. Markings Two sheets of decals are provided with the kit, the larger of which contains the markings for the decal options, while the smaller sheet is covered with the tiny stencils that are ubiquitous on modern jets. Two options are supplied, and both are Russian airframes in two tone grey soft-edge camouflage and shark-mouth motif on the nose. From the box you can build either of the following: Red 29 - 31st GvIAP, 51st Air Corps, 4th Air Army, Russian Air Force White 51 - 120th GvIAP, 21st OSAD, 14th Air Army, Russian Air Force The decals are marked as made in China, and appear to be of good quality with first-rate colour density and registration. The edges of the registration marks are visible on the sheet, and shows that the colours are well registered, but also names a few of the colours on the stencil sheet, which is usual as they are usually cropped off before release. The stencils are all legible under magnification (2.5x in this case), and although I cannot read Cyrillic, they seem to form words that are vaguely familiar from other kits. Included with the stencils for the airframe are the stencils for the missiles and fuel tanks, which is a welcome trend within the hobby. A separate diagram gives both painting and decaling instructions for the munitions and fuel tanks. Conclusion Having totally missed the initial release, this new variant was eagerly awaited by both myself and a lot of others, so should sell very well. It deserves to, as GWH have put a lot of work into it, and the results are there to see in the box. The detail is excellent, the build looks to be straightforward, the weapons are first class, and the presentation matches it all. If I had to pick on one thing, it would be that the decal options are a little samey, with only the bright tail stripes and tail codes differentiating to the casual observer. That churlish moan aside, it's difficult to find fault with the kit, and I suspect it won't stay unbuilt for long. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  21. 1 point
    At last it's done. You can see the wip herehttp://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234919531-english-electric-p1/. As a modeller of some years standing, there comes a time that you have to do something like this. It makes you better for it. I'm glad I did it but I shan't rush into something like this again anytime soon. It's nowhere near competition standard, but please have a perusal at the pics.
  22. 1 point
    Good to see one finished in the grey scheme, Great build! RG
  23. 1 point
    I would never dream of bashing Revell. They are a fantastic brand and the quality of their decals is the best of any kitmaker IMHO. It's just, precisely because of that that I wish they had "standard" options more frequently with their reboxed kits.
  24. 1 point
    Got a bit more done before it got too hot in the shed - got the decals on Peter
  25. 1 point
    The critiquing is limited to the build itself, not the accuracy of the kit or the subject matter. From the rules of the forum, so make of it what you will. I personally think you have done a superb job and I myself would love to have the skill to replicate this. If there is a flaw in the kit then there is really no need to point it out and detract from what is a fine bit of modelling. Marc
  26. 1 point
    Looks the Mutt's to me. Was just looking at this and the Seafang in the Big 'H' today but decided against it. Too much stuff already, and I wouldn't make as good a job of it as you have.
  27. 1 point
    Whatever the kit's issues may be (I don't have enough interest invested in the Spiteful, so wouldn't have a clue on it's inacurracies ), I think you've turned out a nice looking model there. Top hole, ole chap.
  28. 1 point
    To add my 10 pence worth I think we should be glad that there is an imminent new tool kit of the Harrier being released, rather than slating Airfix for any sliding release dates! You can please some of the people.....
  29. 1 point
    Hi sorry i've not posted much as far as the build process goes but I have really cracked on with this one. I have filled it, primed it, painted it, sprayed a coat of Klear applied the decals and as you can see they have set nicely into the recess panel lines. Now I have sprayed another coat of Klear over the decals and now once this is dry I will apply the wash. Pretty happy with the outcome so far as it's my first WW2 aircraft. Really enjoyed building this wee beauty. Thanks for looking Comments welcome Jammur
  30. 1 point
    Looking good. That's not a problem.. it's a challenge:-)
  31. 1 point
    Very nice and comparing the propeller to a picture of a real one it does look close enough and the angle of the landing gear is very minor.
  32. 1 point
    ??????????? Nowt wrong with the build! Stunning seat & (no doubt) brilliant use of Zero paints. ATB..........
  33. 1 point
    About time, now I can build a model of HMS Campbeltown as I helped build the real one! Julien (Happy, now where is my 1.350 Upholder Class Submarine?)
  34. 1 point
    Those are some amazing pictures. So much NMF all in one place, even the prototypes thrown in too. The Marine FJ-3 Fury with folding wings is really interesting.
  35. 1 point
    Stunner, great job!
  36. 1 point
    The Viggen is a plane that has never really been on my radar - that was until I saw the display at Waddington -" sublime" is very apt, looked so smooth, stable and buckets of power! Really think you have produced a great looking model and am now definitely motivated to add one to the collection. Sadly it would appear Viggen kits can no longer be had for £1.98! Kevin
  37. 1 point
    Got to love the following comment on in the first note at the top of the page. "The box containing the lithium-ion battery cells is secured inside a reinforced stainless steel enclosure capable of containing a lithium-ion battery event." So just to clarify in English a lithium-ion battery event is a fire?
  38. 1 point
    Well... if you're going to climb up a ladder, on the runway threshold... you DESERVE to be sued by the MoD for FOD... Surely this should be in the "Airshow Annoyances..." thread... Not much sympathy here... bestest, M.
  39. 1 point
    Great way to avoid doing the splinter camouflage. It definitely looks very nice.
  40. 1 point
    That's a great start! I keep seeing the RB6 on the shelf at the local hobby shop and asking myself 'Shall I? Shan't I?' and if this thread continues like it has begun, I'll be back there next week with some cash!
  41. 1 point
    i see its 6 weeks to close all the stores,i popped into the bromley shop today and got some tamiya paint at 50percent off,got to [also ] say great staff in the bromley and croydon stores,i hope i can keep in touch with them great modellers and very knowledgable on various subjects,and to be quite honest i enjoyed my stints at bluewater and croydon,shame the firm lost its direction and let their staff down.
  42. 1 point
    Well DO18 I will hang out the following. Let's talk about matchbox Do-18 next time...
  43. 1 point
    However Airfix itself has, wisely, never published specific availability dates to the general public - it's only Wonderland which does this. In doing so I imagine that it rather annoys Airfix. It introduces a spurious level of apparent precision into a complex multi-player long-distance distrubuted production and delivery cycle. If I were Airfix I would strongly discourage any retailer, no matter how influential, from publishing hard dates until after Airfix has all the production elements - sprues , decals, boxes, instructions - actually through customs in the UK. Only at that point does Airfix actually control the eventual timing of retail availability itself, rather than having to second-guess what the ship and the suppliers will do.
  44. 1 point
    Amen Jonners... big chains removing any last vestige of individuality from the high street is not going to save them from becoming ghost towns.
  45. 1 point
    Up until this build I hadn't built a Axis aircraft since I was a kid. And even then I never built more than a couple, why that was I don't know. As an adult I'm still not into German aircraft and I have zero interest in Japanese subjects. That said I don't mind the 109. I'd bought this kit to on sell and have had it a year or so, but despite discounting it to under cost no one seemed interested. I was re reading a Military Illustrated Modeller Magazine and noticed Brett Greens Build of this aircraft. As I was in the middle of a 1/48 F-14 build, which I was losing interest in, I figured why not build this 109 straight from the box. I could even use Brett's build as a reference (OK, I could just copy exactly what he did). So that is what I set out to do. I'm pretty happy how it turned out and I may even do a E3/E4 in the future. I was refreshing just sticking things together, slapping the paint a stickers on and not bothering to much about accuracy or detail. If you're interested there is more on the build at my web site http://a4-alley.x90x.net/models/BF-109E-1.html
  46. 1 point
    Well, it's done. Started with Dragon's 110 D/E night fighter kit with LSCM's resin conversion, under the assumption that it would be a relatively easy conversion. It was not. The main problem was the poor quality of the conversion set. First of all, the quality was not that good. The engine nacelle didn't fit well. It also lacked details - various bits and bumps on the surface were missing. The vaccuum formed canopy was cracked in the box, and it also didn't fit. Apart from poor fitting parts with poor details, another thing is that the set isn't complete. It doesn't include the correct fuselage cannons, and the rear seat is inaccurate for most 110Gs (it's only accurate for very late 110Gs such as the one at Hendon). The set doesn't actually include new wheels and tires - which can be sourced from the Dragon D/E kit but not from the C or D boxings. I also ended up having to scribe several panels underneath the fuselage - the layout of the panels and shell ports is accurate up to the 110F. In short, I would recommend against the LSCM conversion set. External fuel tanks, a promiment feature of many 110s were sourced form MDC. I ended up using the exhaust pipes from the old Revell 110G kit. I also used quite a few parts from the old Eduard 110G detail set, which I had bought years earlier. I'm not completely happy with the mottling - I definitely need more practice. Some positive things about the build: the MDC DB605 is a thing of beauty. I used Miracle Masks for the first time and they worked brilliantly. I also owe Pip Moss who designed the decal for the kill marks on the tail. Anyway, on to the pics! thanks for looking & comments & feedback is very welcome! Elger
  47. 1 point
    Here are some pictures of my canberra. I will upload some shots of her top later but as you can see, there is quite a nice scheme on her. I do believe that this mk of the canberra didn't have this scheme but at the end of the day, it looks nice.
  48. 1 point
    I've heard from a little birdy that OrangeHobby are releasing a 1:350 Batch 3 Type 22 in the near future.
  49. 1 point
    Moebius models have original series Mk I viper 1/32, Cylon raider 1/32 and classic Galactica 1/4105 coming soon. It's for the 35th Anniversary of the original series!
  50. 1 point
    And the almost finished lading gear (just need to touch up those tires a bit) that's all for now Thanks again for stopping in MH
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