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Showing most liked content on 13/07/13 in all areas

  1. Inspired by Artur's miniature I decided to build my own Su-22. I used Eduard's kit (in fact KP with some etched parts and resin cockpit interior). OOB, without any modifications,except decals for polish aircraft ..and a few pics from the building:
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  2. Russian Udaloy Class Destroyer The Vice-Admiral Kulakov, pics thanks to Panzer Vor.
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  3. Desert Snake Hi mates, here are some pictures of my last year finished Airacobra from Eduard. I`ve used the old but great Profipack with photoetched parts, Express Masks and no less than 6 different variants of paint shemes. Additional I used both CMK accessories for engine compartment and front armarment. The model you see represents an aircraft of 346. FS, 12.AF, Noth Africa.The 346. was the last USAF unit using the P-39 in Europe. Only used as an attack aircraft, as this type didn`t rocks as dogfighter against german fighter ! The built was pure fun and gone straight forward! Only minor mods are necessary to convert this model to a L-1-BE type. A wonderful source with all necessary informations is Book No. 6129 of MMP`s Yellow Serie. [/url]
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  4. Oookay, finally calling it done. (Though now I look at my photos, it truly does needs the nav lights at the wingtips.....one final doddle. But no more pics - it's safely in the cat-proof Detolf now!) Lee, thanks a million for the great idea!!
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  5. Operation Harmattan Libya 2011 Revell 1/48th kit [/url]
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  6. Hello Folks, I`ve always wanted to build a model of the earliest Wessex `Junglie' version which were specially stripped out HAS.1 anti sub versions that were painted overall Light Stone and rushed out to Borneo to replace the Whirlwind Mk.7 `Junglie`s' which were operating from primitive jungle heli pads. My original intention was to use the Revell Wessex HAS.3 kit but when Italeri announced that they were doing the same version I held out for one of these instead and here is the result, backdated to HAS.1 status and depicting XP142/J `Mr. Jinks' of 845 NAS, which was later converted to HAS.3 status and went on to become the famous `Humprey' of Falklands fame and now resides in the Fleet Air Arm Museum! Here is the build thread; http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234942543-48th-scale-wessex-has1-junglie/ The `Mr Jink`s' artwork inside the red circle on the nose is hand painted, as is the 845 NAS insignia although a very kind Britmodeller (Dave!) has done me some decal replacements which are on their way from the USA,...what a kind bloke! Two of the emergency escape windows have been opened up to let a bit of cool air in and a `Gimpy' GPMG from the Airfix Lynx kit has been mounted in one of them. Anyway enough blurb,...here is the model; And here is it again with my next Junglie lurking behind, the Italeri Wessex HU.5! Hope you like it, All the best Tony O
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  7. Just finished the build this week. I used the canopy and gear legs from the Heritage Aviation kit, Quickboost wheels and exauhsts, Aeroscale decals for the markings and custom decals for the prop:
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  8. Built from the box with the exception of a Wolfpack MB Mk4 ejection seat. I think this is Kinetic's best so far although the instructions are still lacking in places. I can't wait for a C.1 especially as Furball Aero have a sheet for USN/USMC F-21's coming out. Stephen
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  9. OK , this is a prime example of what I did a rant about earlier in the year. Why some people feel it is so necessary to boost their own ego's by pointing out a inadequacy on someones build that isn't even the fault of the builder is beyond me. Why would it be necessary to anybody's benefit to say the tail wheel is 5 degrees off ? Only the most anal of builders would even know or even come close to caring. All this type of so called accuracy information does is detract from an otherwise AWESOME build. It behooves no one to point out these flaws in open forum on someone else's build. If you want to point out inaccuries then build it yourself and review your own build to point out the flaws. Great build Dave! It certainly doesn't need to be detracted from by anal-ytical B.S.
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  11. Hi all, Esci 1/48 Saab Viggen. Back end of the 80's I paid £1.98 at Poundstretcher for the kit and its been stashed for almost 26 years so decided to build it. A tin of paint today cost me £1.60 and the ejector seat £6. Brian.
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  12. I rattled this together in between the paint passes on my Fokker D.XXI. I painted it in the variant that the old tool Zero was supplied in as I had those decals spare from an old Techmod sheet. However, these decals were so fragile that they started breaking apart just if I looked at them the wrong way, so I had to resort to painting the Hinomarus (no big deal - a red circle) as well as the blue stripes. The fuselage sash was the tricky one and it ain't perfect by a long shot, but it'll do. It'll have to! My only gripe with this kit is the canopy framing. Not only is the framing too thick, but it has large radius curves in the corners making it impossible to mask properly unless you have a pre-cut mask, like Eduard's - which I did. Other than that, a great little fun kit!
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  13. My best wishes to all the staff, hope they all find employment soon, it must have been a difficult few weeks for them all.
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  14. Hello all, after a bit of umming and arring I have decided to do a WIP for this kit.It has taken a long while to get to this point so far, the kit was quite seriously marred by warping of the two decks, both hull halves and the two long interior hangar walls. That meant my newly purchased clamps came in for some serious use when I was putting together the side stations that are visible through the hull openings (to get the walls attached to the deck and the rooves to the walls). I have the White Ensign etch set for this and there are plenty of bits to add I must say. The first parts were for the Atlantic/Pacific boats (called both in the WEM instructions) and this was not as complex as the etch for the RHIB's on the Type 45 were. It still added some good detail though. I also removed the moulded ventilation grilles from the hull sides, chain-drilling small holes then using an etched saw from Airwaves (I think) to join the dots and remove the plastic. WEM suggested fitting some plastic sheet behind the resulting gaps and paint them white, but I felt that even 5thou card might have been a bit thick, so I used some inkjet copy paper cut just oversize and then super-glued that to the hull interior instead, followed by a bead of thinned white glue to give it a bit more 'stickability'. None of the glue soaked into the paper too much and did not discolour the paper when seen from the outside of the hull. The hangar deck had a pronounced droop forward when I tried to fit it to the ledges on the interior, and the hull sides also needed coaxing, and finally I needed about another three hands to keep it all in place while to glue set so I had to think of another tack (sorry!). I taped both hull halves and the hangar deck together and ran a thick bead of medium CA along a short section of deck/hull join followed by some accelerator and that seemed to do the trick. I finished one side (after gluing my nail to the hull - I did not think when I was holding the part tightly to ensure alignment!) and left it for a day to harden (having released myself of course), then the following day I got the other half sorted. I was worried the hull might have 'corkscrewed' due to all the pressure and tensions put on it when I was taping up the joints, but when I managed to find a large flat surface, it sat true - thank goodness for that! The stern transom then took three evenings to get right. I am not sure if the above shot shows up the issues with warping, but to my eye the hull sides are not true, certainly the hangar wall is wobbly and I cannot imagine that she was built with that kink in the sides. I have dry fitted the flight deck, and this next shot may give an idea of what I have to deal with next. It will not be insurmountable really and in some ways I may have made a big deal out of it. Even though the deck is balanced on a sanding pad, there is a pronounced non-straightness. When the deck is in place on the ship, it still goes up and down, and there are large gaps along the sides. So I will be gluing this in stages, which is something I have never even considered doing before in my goodness knows how many years of modelling. I will need plenty of tape and cocktail sticks to ensure the deck does not get damaged by the glue (another thing learnt from the magazines). I would like to do this one full hull, and the lower hull does seem to join reasonably well except in one area near the bow, but if I feel I cannot get the joint good enough I will have to do another seascape. But where would I put it! I have never had issues with warps on kits before and was taken aback a bit, but I was not surprised as I had read on BM from a few others that they had the same issue. I have overcome worse problems with models though, especially a short shot part: I managed to sort that so: I was given Illustrious by a couple I had done a favour for, and I really want to do it justice. I know I have had issues with the warping, but now that is virtually out of the way I think all should be okay now, just needing to remember to add the etchwork in the right places. I spent a very enjoyable evening cross referencing the Airfix and WEM instructions to figure that out. This is going to be a long build I think, so any thoughts and recommendations will be appreciated. Thanks for reading this, all the best everyone. Kind regards, Ray
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  15. I picked up this at the weekend as a distraction from review builds and reviews, as it's ages since I've built anything just for my own pleasure. This is a Cyber Hobby Orange boxing of the Dragon (Trimaster?) kit of the proposed Bomber Destroyer that was fitted with a 50mm Bordkanone 5 in the nose. Only two prototypes were finished before the end of hostilities, and the box top artwork shows a drab RLM 81 with RLM82 spinter pattern on the wings, over RLM76. That late in the war, I'd have thought that a bare metal finish under the wings would be more likely, but what do I know? I'm in the market for a more interesting colour scheme, as the 262 is one of my favourite looking of the early jets. Putting a big fat cannon on the front of it just appeals to my sense of "wrong", so I treated it to one of Master's excellent turned brass and aluminium examples off eBay. I also had a cheapo Zoom! set of Eduard PE that was meant for a nachtjager, so I pressed the front half of that into service. I also killed two birds with one cannon shell and built up a set of the new Eduard "fabric" seatbelts, which took a while, but paid off. It allowed me to write the review with more conviction into the bargain, which is nice The cockpit of this ageing kit is a little rough and not very ready. The tub is nothing more than a section of tube with front and rear bulkheads built in, and some very sketchy detail moulded in. There were tooling marks and ejector pin marks all over the show, and the bases for the side consoles were a bit narrow, so I skinned those with some 0.1mm styrene sheet patterned from a masking tape template. The floor was also given a little extra care & attention, plus a new cross-board in front of the rudder pedals, which were replaced with some early LionRoar examples from the stash. Some of the detail was removed to accomodate the PE, which was pre-painted a not especially convincing colour. Once I'd painted the cockpit I touched in the grey with my shade, so it blends in better (I think?). I also added some lead wire to the rear of the instruments, which has been largely a waste of time and effort, after seeing the part in place I squished the control column's grip and have carved a new one from styrene rod, which is sitting beside me now waiting for the glue to cure, after which it will be painted up... again The nose gear bay had some tricky looking ejector pin marks, so those were filled with punched styrene circles and sanded flush (enough) before being painted. The kit includes a couple of PE sheets in some tough ferric blend of metal that really doesn't like to be cut or bent. Curiously enough, most of that is used in constructing the main gear bay, so that was built up after some seriously aggressive clean-up of the styrene parts, which were 'orrible. They were glued in the lower wing, primed, painted, varnished and washed, then matted down. I also built up the nacelles for the engines, electing not to use the extra sprues of Jumo engines for the stripped down option that's included with the kit along with a couple of mechanics and a stepped platform. The fit of these parts wasn't the best, but it's nothing that some CA and sanding sticks can't sort out, although some minor rescribing looks to be on the cards. These are currently setting up with CA in the joints, waiting for me to create a haze of styrene dusk at some point in the near future. I'm considering riveting the entire airframe once I've built up the fuselage, as there's not a massive amount of surface detail on the kit, as it's quite an old one. It's also got some horrible rubbery tyres and quite nice styrene hubs, which I'm trying not to use, but I'm also trying not to spend much money on it, as it's an old kit. If anyone's got any good ones that they have no need for, I'd be happy to negotiate their release I've added a few tabs to strengthen the obvious underside seams of the fuselage, and the wing joints, but these are going to need some adjustment, as the wall thickness is extremely variable all over the kit due to the old skool techniques used for tooling back then. Enough waffle - here's a pic of everything sat together. Looking forward, I think I've still got a lot of work to do, as the inspection panel covering the cannon breech fits where it touches. I think the guy that tooled the part was told there was a kit being tooled, but not about the dimensions. The landing gear could be interesting, but I'm sure I'll manage. Then there's the colour scheme - I'd prefer not to do the kit scheme, so if anyone's got any ideas, I'm all ears I guess it would have been easier to just buy the newer Hobby Boss kit, but this was just staring at me from the shelf, looking all forlorn with its partially crushed box and simple artwork. "buy me a cannon" it said, and I did. I'm impressionable like that
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  16. The Vickers 'Bullet' is one of those Great War machines which has been largely forgotten, some might say deservedly so, as its actual service record was far from distinguished. It has, however, points of interest about it, beyond the attraction of its obscurity for those who like the 'odd ducks' of early aviation. When it first took to the air, in its earliest iteration, its performance was extraordinary, and the type provides an excellent illustration of the difference between a good flying machine and a good fighting machine. It was employed in areas which were, at the time, viewed as backwaters of little importance, but which would prove of great significance in final stages of the war, and take on even greater importance once the war ended. The genesis of the type was a design of the chief test pilot for Vickers, Mr. Barnwell, and 'Barnwell's Bullet' was built without the company's approval in the autumn of 1914. Mr. Barnwell was a better pilot than he was a designer, and his machine broke on its first usage. Mr. Pearson, a designer for Vickers, saw some promise in the design, however, and re-worked it into the E. S. 1 (Experimental Scout 1), which flew first in August, 1915. It had a top speed of 114 mph, and extraordinary aerobatic ability. When this machine was sent to France for service trials at the end of 1915, however, pilots reported they had a very restricted view from the cockpit, owing to the width and round section of the fuselage, and the placement of the unstaggered wings. Six were ordered for further experiment, and eventually fitted with Clerget motors and a Vickers gun synchronized with the Vickers-Challenger gear; further service trials in May of 1916 received bad marks from pilots who much preferred the Dh 2 pusher scout in combat. In the summer of 1916, Vickers attempted to put things right with the design, reducing the width of the fuselage by leaving it flat-sided for most of its length. Now denominated F. B. 19, this was offered to the R.F.C. and foreign air services. Czarist Russia ordered fifty of this model, with deliveries beginning at the end of the year. Several were taken on by the R.F.C., and fetched up on Home Defense duty. Vickers further revised the design, giving the wings pronounced stagger. This F.B. 19 Mk II version did attract some interest from the R.F.C., as it appeared just as the German Albatros fighters were coming into service, and whatever its faults in pilot vision, the 'Bullet' was faster than the Albatros. The first example of the latest version, inexplicably, used the same wings as those of the un-staggered version, with the result that its wing ribs cracked in service trials during November. A dozen had already been ordered, but the need of redesigning the wings' structure delayed their delivery into spring of 1917, and that was the limit of the delivery of the F.B. 19 Mk II to the R.F.C.. It was decided to send these on to the Middle East, where English forces had suffered reverses at Gaza, and expansion of the fighting in Balkans loomed with the impending entry of Romania into the war. The 'Bullets' arrived in June of 1917, with several being sent on to Macedonia, assigned to No. 47 Squadron, and the rest being retained in Egypt, taken on strength.by No. 14 Squadron. They were used as escorts and interceptors, serving alongside such types as the Dh 2, the Martinsyde Elephant, the Bristol Monoplane, and the B.E. 2c and B.E. 12, opposing Albatros single-seaters and Rumpler and A.E.G. two-seaters. In Egypt, the 'Bullets' were passed on from No. 14 Squadron to a newly formed unit, No. 111 Squadron, in August, 1917. The problem of poor visibilty remained, and short range added a further handicap in these theaters, and only a handful of victory claims (and these only of the 'down out of control' variety) were ever posted up by pilots of the "Bullet' in the R.F.C. When more modern types reached the Middle East command, the 'Bullets', along with the rest of the former grab-bag equipment, was retired from combat, with several lingering on as trainers till the end of the war, and possibly even shortly after. This machine, A5231, is one of those retained in Egypt. It was assigned first to No. 14, and passed on to No. 111. It flew from Dier el Balah, not far south of Gaza City, and the lines the Turks had held against Gen. Murray in the spring of 1917, but which were broken by Gen. Allenby that autumn. The model is a scratch-build, and it is hardly surprising that is necessary to get a model of this type. My interest in it was sparked long ago, when I learned of its existence in my old Harleyford 'Fighters, 1914-1918' volume. A series of pictures of No.111 Squadron's equipment in an issue of Cross and Cockade bought a good while back included an identifiable picture of A5231, which got me thinking a model could be built, and when the Windsock people put out a monograph dedicated to the type, it seemed the time was right to start cutting plastic. It was an interesting project, and the first small scratch-build I have done in a while. An account of the build can be found here: http://www.greatwaraviation.com/forum/index.php/topic,5210.0.html
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  17. Hasegawa kit with Zoom photo-etched parts from Eduard, decals from Eagle Strike Range; except of them, i built my Sabre straight OOB and i had lot of fun. Paint with Gunze's acrylic H330, H331 and H56 for the blu (i know it's not the right PRU blu, but for me looks right!). Hope you like it And now... a couple of Sabres! thanks for looking ciao Ale
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  18. Hi Here are a few shots from a roasting Duxford today. My favourite act was The Horsemen in the three Spitfires. Thanks for looking.
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  19. Kit: 1/72 Eduard "Profi Pack" White 07, 566th SHAP, Leningard 1944 Paints: Gunze/Mr.Hobby Decals: Kits own Thanks for your interest! Cheers from Vienna, Austria Roman Schilhart
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  20. It's a little bit late, but here are some pictures from the Phantom Pharewell event at Wittmund air base, Germany on June 29. Luckily, the rainy, cold and miserable weather started to clear just that day. Cheers Jeffrey
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  21. Good afternoon colleagues. I want to show work строилось все здесь http://scalemodels.ru/modules/forum/viewtopic_t_46055.html
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  22. US Mk 23 MTVR Cargo Truck Trumpeter 1:35 History The Medium Tactical Vehicle Replacement (MTVR) is a family of all-terrain cargo trucks manufactured by Oshkosh for the US Navy and US Marine Corps. The MTVR was initially ordered to replace the existing medium truck fleet under the US Marine Corps programme. The vehicles were extensively deployed in Iraq and Afghanistan. The Oshkosh vehicle can transport troops, fuel, water, food and supplies. The vehicle will also be used to tow the M777 lightweight 155mm howitzer. More than 11,000 MTVRs have been delivered to the Marines and the Navy Seabees to date. The MTVR is available in nine variants including MK23, (the subject of this kit) and MK25 Standard Cargo Truck, MK27 and MK28 Extended Cargo Truck, MK29 and MK30 Dump Truck, MK31 Tractor, MK36 Wrecker, MK37 HIMARS Resupply Vehicle, 4x4 Short Bed Cargo, 9-Ton Load Handling System 6x6, and 16.5-Ton Load Handling System 8x8. The vehicles feature a welded all-aluminium cab mounted on a torsionally rigid channel section chassis frame. The conventional layout houses the engine at the front, crew cab in the middle and troop/cargo section in the rear. The crew cab accommodates three marines. The standard MTVR cargo variant has a length of 8.02m, width of 2.4m and a height of 3.5m. The curb weight of the basic cargo variant (MK23) is 12.6t. The trucks can be integrated with Oshkosh TerraMax UGV technology for conducting unmanned operations. The crew cab and cargo compartment are equipped with an MTVR Armour System (MAS) to protect the crew from 7.62mm M80 ball rounds and 7.62mm Armour Piercing (AP) rounds. The mine protection kit can protect the occupants from mines and improvised explosive devices (IEDs). The bottom of the vehicle is provided with aluminium armour and rolled homogeneous armour (RHA) to withstand the impact of grenades and mortar rounds used as mines. Powered by a Caterpillar C-13 six-cylinder diesel engine coupled to an Allison seven-speed automatic transmission and torque converter, and an Oshkosh single-speed transfer box. It provides a power output of 440hp. Each variant is equipped with Oshkosh TAK-4 independent coil-spring suspension, which provides superior mobility and allows each wheel to move independently on the uneven surfaces. The vehicle features anti-lock brakes with automatic traction control. The Central Tire Inflation System (CTIS) allows the driver to select tire inflation pressures according to vehicle payload and terrain type. The vehicle has a maximum speed of 105km/h and on-road cruising range of 483km. It can traverse a 60% gradient and 30% side slope with its maximum cross-country load and can ford waters up to 1.5m deep. It can be internally transported by C-5, C-17 and C-130 Hercules transport aircraft. The MK23 cargo variant is airlifted under-slung by CH-53 helicopter. The Model The kit comes in the now standard, and in my view, very attractive, and sturdy box with an artists representation of the MTRV Mk23 on the front towing an M-177 155mm howitzer. On opening the box is full to the brim with nine sprues of light grey styrene, three separate parts for the cab and bonnet, one clear sprue, six rubber tyres, one fret of etched brass, a small decal sheet and a length of copper wire. Each sprue and the separate parts are contained in separate poly bags ensuring that all the parts are well protected. All the parts are really well moulded, with no sign of flash, although there are quite a few moulding pips, which are slightly annoying, but a necessity due to the moulding process. Naturally for a truck the construction begins with the building up of the chassis. The two chassis rails are joined together by several cross beams, a representation of the engine sump and gearbox/torque converter and an intermediate gearbox with associated drive shafts and universal joints. Over the drive shaft another cross beam is fitted along with one over the gearbox and a U beam across the rear brackets of the main rails. Turning the chassis right side up another cross beam/cover is added above the drive shaft, whilst to the front the bumper is attached. The build then progresses to the suspension and wheel brake units. Each of the three sub-assemblies that go toward building the suspension units are very complex. Each suspension frame, (of which there are two per axle), is constructed out of a main part and two side frames. This is then fitted with the two piece spring, (which may take a bit of tidying up and would have been better moulded as a single unit), is attached between the upper and lower wishbones, the lower wishbone then has the shock absorber fitted between it and the upper framework. A short drive shaft is fitted with the ball joint and slid into the frame assembly and for the front axle, fitted with a lower steering bracket and upper steering arm. Once each of the six suspension assemblies have been built a transverse gearbox and two support rods are sandwiched between two of the assemblies per axle and cross frame attached to the bottom of each frame covering the gearboxes. The wheel hubs, brake units are then assembled and fitted to each ball joint. Each axle is then fitted to their associated position on the chassis and drive shafts are attached between the front axle gearbox to the intermediate gearbox, intermediate gearbox to the forward rear axle gearbox and between the forward and rear axle gearboxes. Auxiliary components are assembled, these include the fuel tank, which is a two piece affair, upper and lower, to which the two support mounts are fitted along with a four piece step assembly. The storage box is also of upper and lower construction which has the two support mounts and two catches before the air and hydraulic accumulators are attached. Both the fuel tank and storage box are attached to the left hand chassis rail. Two step frames and associated foot plates are then assembled and fitted one on each side as are the two cab supports. The final parts fitted to the chassis before the build moves onto the cab and cargo bed are the air intake stack, intake frame and support, engine intake pipe, which is threaded through the right hand footstep frame and fitted to the stack, rear cab shock absorbers and the cross chassis footplate. The cab assembly starts with adding a couple of minor parts to the underside of the cab floor, then flipping over to fit the accelerator and brake pedals. The instrument binnacle is made up of three parts, the lower console, upper air vent strip and the instrument panel, the instruments of which are on a decal. The use of decal softening and setting solutions may work here as the details are raised, or it may be better to paint the main details and cut out the placards from the decal and add them to their relevant positions. The completed binnacle is then fitted to the forward floor part along with the steering column and its associated support bracket. The drivers seat is made up of the squab and back rest which sits on a concertina effect part, then fitted to the cab floor. The two seater passenger seat is made up of a single box structure onto which the back rest is fitted, attached to two square sectioned supports, and attached to the cab floor. The outer cab structure is a single piece moulding, onto which the circular gunners hatch, clear front and rear screens, two hand rails and the four supports for the machine gun mount are fitted. The machine gun mount itself is made up of the crossways support structure, two spent casing troughs, ring mount, with the gun support attached. The completed assembly is then fitted to the four cab supports with individual brackets on each corner. The inner cab is then slid into the outer, and having dry fitted these parts I can say that it is a very good and positive fitting. The doors are then fitted with their associated clear parts and attached to the cab. The exhaust stack is made up of two parts with a PE mesh wrapped around the bottom section and attached to the right hand side of the cab with the exhaust pipe attached to the bottom of the stack and cab into what would be the engine bay. The rear mud flaps, wing mirrors, with PE brackets, wipers, PE foot plates and exhaust stack outlet flapper complete the cab build. The cab assembly is then fitted to the chassis and the front end completed with the fitting of the bonnet, made up of a single piece moulding onto which a PE mesh and back plate are fitted to the inside of the radiator grille, the headlights, sidelights and the oil reservoir at the back of the cab. Moving onto the cargo bed, the bed itself, with moulded tie down rings is fitted with the front fixed, rear lower fixed and what look like removable sides, presume, depending on role. The rear drop down flap is then attached, whilst on the underside, the support and strengthening beams are fitted, as are the strapping points, plus the front and rear mudguards. Turning the bed right side up more strapping points are added to the lower sides along with twenty more mid way up the sides, front and rear. These are made up using the provided jigs and the copper wire, which whilst looking quite a labourious job will make the model very convincing. The completed cargo bed is then attached to the rear chassis. The build is completed with the assembly of the six wheels, each made up of an inner and outer hub and an out hub plate. The rubber tyres are then pushed onto the hubs from the rear. The tyres are very well moulded, with no seam lines other than what you’d see on the real things, and the words are legible, showing that the manufacturers name is correctly spelt. They maybe not to everyones tastes and will probably be replaced with aftermarket resin ones if they are released, but they do look good. Etch Most of the etched parts have been mentioned in the above text showing where the parts are used. The etch sheet itself is quite thick, but not overly so, which means it shouldn’t be too hard to bend. It would still be best to anneal the parts beforehand though, especially the exhaust grille, which needs to be wrapped around the plastic part. The perforated parts are really well done, to the point they look stamped and will greatly aid the realistic look of the completed model. Decals The small decal sheet contains not only the instrument panel mentioned above, but the vehicle reg numbers for each of the two colour schemes provided, but also placards and identification numbers placed around the truck. The decals are very clear, slightly glossy and of good opacity, whilst the backing film looks nice a thin. Conclusion This is a super kit, with lots of parts and detail. If used in conjunction with an M198 155mm howitzer, (at least until an M777 is released), it will make a good basis for a diorama or vignette. My only real concerns are the complete lack of tilt and tilt bars with which, from research, these vehicles are usually fitted. But I guess these can always be scratch built. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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  23. Mig-29 9-13 Fulcrum C 1:48 Great Wall Hobby The Mig-29 is arguably one of the most iconic of the Cold War Russian jets, and probably one of the most frequently seen at Western airshows since the dissolution of the Soviet Union. Its origins began deep in the cold war, when it was designed as a "lightweight" Tactical Fighter, replacing the Mig-23 and having the capability to go up against any fighter aircraft of the day. It entered service in 1984 and has been so ever since, with the former Soviet Union aircraft being taken over by Russia, and its satellite countries retaining theirs for the most part. After the reunification of Germany in 1991 the East German Migs were integrated with the Luftwaffe, following some alterations to make them more NATO friendly. The Fulcrum C is similar to the original production run, but has a large spine extension containing additional fuel to increase its range, and a jamming system for self-defence. It also has more provision for external fuel tanks on the wing pylons, upgraded radar, plus other systems and weapons upgrades. The number of variants that have been fielded over the years is quite staggering, including some "home-brew" variants requested or made by purchasers at the time of buying, or later. This should give the GWH plenty of scope for alternative versions as time goes by. The Kit This is the second edition of the Mig-29 that GWH have produced, the original being an earlier 9-12, which sold out incredibly quickly in the UK, and I believe is now becoming tricky to get hold of. The key here is "don't delay", as this one is likely to prove as popular as the earlier kit, and knocks the Academy kit into the proverbial "cocked hat" in terms of detail and fidelity. The box is a large one by dint of the so-called lightweight fighter being a large aircraft, but also because of the way it is presented. Lifting the lid reveals a large white box within the top, and inside there is the upper fuselage, protected from harm by the additional packaging, a wrap of foam sheet to protect the prominent engine humps and a pair of foam wedges that prevent the fuselage from shimmying around in the box. Under there is another piece of packaging, which is a two-part vacuum-formed container for the six missiles, held together by a number of friction fit pegs and recessed in the middle. There are three large sprues and eight more of varying sizes, all in a medium grey styrene, as are the aforementioned missiles. A set of clear parts are double-bagged for protection, and the large clear canopy has a further sheet of light adhesive material applied to the outer surface to prevent any scratches or chaffing in transit, attesting to GWH's care in packing their products. A small fret of Photo Etch (PE) brass is included, plus a small sheet of acetate, pre-printed with the shape of the HUD glass, two sheets of decals, a print of the box artwork (which is excellent) in a plastic folder, and the instruction booklet are found in the bottom of the box, together with a pair of cover-sheets in yellow for the decals, which were (oddly for GWH) unwrapped, and both cover-sheets had come adrift. First impressions. Well, if you've seen the original release, you know exactly what to expect. The detail is excellent, and it's surprising to see just how much they've managed to cram into the visible internal areas such as the wheel bays and cockpit. Surface detail is just as you'd expect for a high-grade newly tooled kit, utilising slide-moulding to add value, and the overall package just exudes quality. Construction starts with the K-36DM ejection seat, which is built up from ten styrene parts and seven PE parts including a set of seat harnesses, with four decals supplied for the head-box area. The rest of the cockpit is built up from individual faces to maximise the detail, and the sidewalls are further detailed by the addition of extra parts for the side-consoles and structural members. A detailed painting guide accompanies these steps, and a full set of instrument dial decals are included to finish off the nice 3D instrument panel, which incidentally has the older analogue cockpit appropriate to the mark. The instrument coaming is moulded into the upper fuselage part, but don't let that put you off - it is well detailed and has a PE HUD assembly into which the clear acetate HUD glass goes later in the build. The cockpit slots into the fuselage from below, and you are given options of posing the canopy open or closed, with a styrene ram included for the former, and PE rear-view mirrors arranged around the forward hoop of the canopy. The prominent IR sensor that projects from the front of the windscreen is provided with a clear cover, and detailed painting instructions are given for the representation of the equipment within. All the clear parts are crystal clear and well moulded, with no seam on the canopy, which I'm sure will please many (self included). The turtle-deck behind the pilot is decked-out with a large sloped sided box that is festooned with knobs & dials that will show-up nicely under the canopy, so will need careful painting to do it justice. The large upper fuselage is exceptionally well moulded, with detail all over it that is right up there with the best. A pair of sprue-runners protects the wing-tips and the static-wick on the trailing edge, and a sprue-bridge holds the tail extension booms rigid. The large "Fatback" spine extends between the engine bulges terminating smoothly right in front of the exhausts, and if you look carefully you can see a neatly "nipped" injection moulding sprue gate that will need a deft flick with a sanding stick to smooth it off before painting. There are also a pair of small bumps on the mating surface between top and bottom, next to the auxiliary intakes, which initially appear to be "stealth" sprue gates, but have corresponding depressions in the lower fuselage half to accommodate them, so don't be tricked into removing them to improve the fit between the two halves. Either side of the cockpit are two large auxiliary intakes that open automatically when the mesh intake guards come down, allowing the engine to ingest (hopefully) clean air when operating from a rough or poorly prepared airfield without ruining the engines. There are holes in the upper fuselage that accept either closed louvers or open louvers, depending on whether the engine is idle or ground-running, respectively. To the aft of the rectangular hole is a recessed section which accepts a small PE part with three sections of mesh etched in. The lower fuselage is equally well moulded, but has a large number of holes for gear bays, engine bays etc., plus the upper section of the twin intakes. The detail on the lifting-body central section between the intakes is very well rendered, with some deeply set grilles that look excellent. The gear bays are made up from separate faces, as mentioned earlier, and here the detail is reminiscent of resin casting, rather than styrene injection. The nose gear bay is made up from a single central part that incorporates the roof and forward and aft bulkheads, plus separate side panels, while the main bays don't have end bulkheads per se, but shelve away into nothing. The detail on the roof is superb, with rib-work on the topsides that will be seen through the auxiliary intakes if you pose them open. There are some ejector pin marks to clean up on this part though, but you can't complain as the detail on the bay side is unblemished as a result, and only some will feel need to fill them. If you're in that faction, you'll be pleased to know that they're on the edges, and easy to access. Decide for yourself whether they'll even be seen though. Here's where the ingenious design of the intakes comes into play, but I'm sure it won't appeal to everyone. The roof of the intake is moulded into the lower fuselage, and the rest of the intake is built up from two halves split vertically, which mate to grooves in the lower fuselage, creating a broadly circular tunnel. If you want to pose your model on the ground, you can insert the FOD guards and blank off the interior forever, but if you plan on posing it with engines on or in flight, you will need to add the retracted FOD guards within the intake trunk, and clean up a lot of seams and ejector pin marks. The fact that the Fulcrum has built-in guards is just gravy to your average modeller that hates sanding seams in tricky positions, which becomes tedious very quickly. Thank you Mikoyan! The deployed parts are of course thicker than the retracted PE parts, but the detail is very good, although you forego the see-through look of the mesh in the process. I don't see many people losing sleep over that, but if you wanted to, you could bend the PE parts appropriately using the plastic parts as a template a1nd secure them carefully with the use of tabs within the intake trunk. Joining the upper and lower fuselage shouldn't be too taxing unless you're shoe-horning in extra resin details, and at this point you can add the slats, ailerons and flaps, posed at any sensible angle of your choice. The large elevators slot into the sides of the tail, with a sharply angled axis, just like the real thing, while the twin tails, which have caused some problems in the real world, are single-thickness parts with a separate rudder and some tiny auxiliary parts. Forward and slightly outboard of the fin fillets are the fins in which you'll find the chaff and flare dispensers to confuse and avoid enemy missiles. The fins have inserts for the tube detail, or they can be fitted with blanks for those aircraft that don't have the capability installed. Another bone of contention amongst modellers is next, and that bone is the provision of engines with the kit. The pro argument is simple - it's additional detail that goes to add extra visual interest to your model. The detractors argue that the parts are un-needed, most modellers will close up the bays and consign them forever to darkness. Whichever side of the fence you come down on, you will have to admit that the detail include on these engines is excellent, and again more like resin than injection moulded styrene. With a surprisingly small number of parts (17) they build up with highly detailed exhaust petals, a rear fan with stator blades as separate parts, and a detailed afterburner ring. Cleverly, they have avoided the use of halves where the seams will be seen on the inside, instead using short cylindrical parts between the rear of the engine and the exhaust petals. The engine body is split in half, but only the outside seam will be seen, with much of one of them covered with auxiliary equipment. The exhaust inner and outer petals are made up from a central ring with two sides attached, to which the other quadrants are glued to make up the whole. Again, detailed painting guides you through the whole process, and a small engine trestle is supplied with the kit in case you wanted to show one motor outside the aircraft. Ideally a replacement dummy "tube" and spare exhaust would have been provided too, but that would all have added to the cost of the kit. Both engines slot into the lower fuselage and are optionally covered by their cowlings, which has rudimentary rib detail moulded into the inner face, although again there are some ejector pins to deal with if you elect to include them nearby. The nose cone is a separate part from the fuselage halves, and is added later in the build along with its pitot probe and smaller sensors bristling from the nose area. At the opposite end, the rear-mounted air brakes clamshell around the "microphone" sensor suite in either open position with their retraction jacks, or closed, consigning the jacks to the spares box. The landing gear is of course very well detailed and builds up from a larger than average number of parts to offer the best detail, which is to be applauded, as it is the small details that give a better illusion of reality IMHO. The wheels and hubs are separate parts, and the tyres have lovely detail moulded in that is again worthy of resin, even as far as the maker's name and data-plate on the sidewalls. A slight flat is moulded into the bottom of each tyre to better portray the weight of the aircraft on its wheels, but not so extreme as to have you reaching for the compressor to give them some more air. The nose-wheel has the usual mud-guard seen on many Soviet aircraft, and the louvers have been slide-moulded for fidelity. The gear bay doors are similarly details, and the main doors have landing lights with clear lenses added along with the actuator jacks. Happily, for those that like to model their aircraft in their natural environment, a set of alternative parts are included to pose the gear bay doors closed, which just begs for a diorama of one of those low-flying demos the reality of which are oft debated on the forums. The Fulcrum is well appointed for both weapons and additional fuel, with a large tank in a semi-permanent position between the engines and the potential for two more on the inner pylons on the wings. The central tank is split horizontally, and has separate nose and rear parts, plus retention lugs, attaching to the lower fuselage by two large pins. The 9-13 has three hard-points on the wings and you can choose to mount additional fuel or a pair of Vympel R-27R Alamo missiles with their distinctive forward canted fins. The outer pylons seat a quartet of R-73R Archers, and again with all these missiles, GWH have been clever. Each one is moulded on a separate sprue as a single part, using slide moulding to obtain detail on all sides, as well as each end. The four mould seams are set diagonally, as are the sprue gates, so that the seams run along the lines of the fins, minimising clean-up. The moulds are also very tightly tooled, resulting in very fine seam lines that won't take long to clean up at all. The result is a clean, detailed missile with a lot more strength to its construction, whilst avoiding all the fiddly separate fins and associated alignment issues. Given the probable expense of tooling these parts, one can only assume that GWH have more variants of the Mig-29 or some other Russian subjects in mind. Whatever the case, they have introduced a new (to me at least) and intelligent approach to tooling missiles and ordnance, which is the weak point of many a model. Markings Two sheets of decals are provided with the kit, the larger of which contains the markings for the decal options, while the smaller sheet is covered with the tiny stencils that are ubiquitous on modern jets. Two options are supplied, and both are Russian airframes in two tone grey soft-edge camouflage and shark-mouth motif on the nose. From the box you can build either of the following: Red 29 - 31st GvIAP, 51st Air Corps, 4th Air Army, Russian Air Force White 51 - 120th GvIAP, 21st OSAD, 14th Air Army, Russian Air Force The decals are marked as made in China, and appear to be of good quality with first-rate colour density and registration. The edges of the registration marks are visible on the sheet, and shows that the colours are well registered, but also names a few of the colours on the stencil sheet, which is usual as they are usually cropped off before release. The stencils are all legible under magnification (2.5x in this case), and although I cannot read Cyrillic, they seem to form words that are vaguely familiar from other kits. Included with the stencils for the airframe are the stencils for the missiles and fuel tanks, which is a welcome trend within the hobby. A separate diagram gives both painting and decaling instructions for the munitions and fuel tanks. Conclusion Having totally missed the initial release, this new variant was eagerly awaited by both myself and a lot of others, so should sell very well. It deserves to, as GWH have put a lot of work into it, and the results are there to see in the box. The detail is excellent, the build looks to be straightforward, the weapons are first class, and the presentation matches it all. If I had to pick on one thing, it would be that the decal options are a little samey, with only the bright tail stripes and tail codes differentiating to the casual observer. That churlish moan aside, it's difficult to find fault with the kit, and I suspect it won't stay unbuilt for long. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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  24. I'll say they judder and vibrate Steve,I've heard the pilots on the scanner. They usually sound like a Dalek on acid . Check your PM's Aaron. Sten,any chance of a picture of that etch for the '47?
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  26. Good to see one finished in the grey scheme, Great build! RG
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  27. ALF, Not a problem if you do contradict me .... Which is why I will always deffer to your answer. Just got back from some intense learning for a week in Maryland..... and I woke up a muscle I haven't really used in about 24 years........ Yeah I had a headache. Very interesting to see '769 in multiple configurations.... Here is my rendering from a while back... http://www.arcair.com/Gal4/3601-3700/gal3651_CF-18_Varosi/00.shtm Actually nice to see 188769 still flying, was in the Libyan operation. Emil
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  28. The critiquing is limited to the build itself, not the accuracy of the kit or the subject matter. From the rules of the forum, so make of it what you will. I personally think you have done a superb job and I myself would love to have the skill to replicate this. If there is a flaw in the kit then there is really no need to point it out and detract from what is a fine bit of modelling. Marc
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  29. Looks the Mutt's to me. Was just looking at this and the Seafang in the Big 'H' today but decided against it. Too much stuff already, and I wouldn't make as good a job of it as you have.
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  30. Hi sorry i've not posted much as far as the build process goes but I have really cracked on with this one. I have filled it, primed it, painted it, sprayed a coat of Klear applied the decals and as you can see they have set nicely into the recess panel lines. Now I have sprayed another coat of Klear over the decals and now once this is dry I will apply the wash. Pretty happy with the outcome so far as it's my first WW2 aircraft. Really enjoyed building this wee beauty. Thanks for looking Comments welcome Jammur
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  31. Very nice and comparing the propeller to a picture of a real one it does look close enough and the angle of the landing gear is very minor.
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  32. About time, now I can build a model of HMS Campbeltown as I helped build the real one! Julien (Happy, now where is my 1.350 Upholder Class Submarine?)
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  33. Very nice start, but I think you made a cock up with the drivers name
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  34. Latest of the bench and, yes another Spitfire..... (I like them OK....is that a problem........do I need to get help??.......[52 made so far and rising]) Saw this scheme in Combat Colours No. 8. So out came the Hasegawa kit, a few decals from the spares box and this is the end result. Hope you like it. Comments are welcome as always Thanks for looking.
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  36. Cool cool... It is worth getting these kits just for the LGB's, you get 2 x GBU-12's and 4 x GBU-10's per store sprue (or the other way around). I got about 8 of the buggers now. You also get some nifty SLAM-ER's and AIM-9X's, always handy to have. Yeah it is pretty cool, but it's annoying when you get to a boring/hard part and you then realise you've gotta do it 3 more times. Or if I pull my finger out, 7 more times... Still it gets the work done. The assembly line diorama is a cool idea, always makes me think of B-24's or Shermans for some reason. Can you imagine making a line of 1/144 B-24's?! let alone 1/72 or even bigger... hhmm... Cheers Dave Thank you Houston, they will be getting some more work done to them really soon. I apologise for the lack of work thus far, I have been going to college at night-time, so my days where starting at 04:30am and finishing at 22:00 pm... long days. Anyhow I have passed my course now so I am free!!! woohoo!! (I was doing a CCNA incase anyone cared). Thank you for the encouragement all. Kind Regards, Dazz
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  37. Got to love the following comment on in the first note at the top of the page. "The box containing the lithium-ion battery cells is secured inside a reinforced stainless steel enclosure capable of containing a lithium-ion battery event." So just to clarify in English a lithium-ion battery event is a fire?
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  38. Cheers Bri, don't blame you for leaving early...I tend to go the other way and stay until virtually everyone else has left and the MP's need to coerce me into getting out !!!, (sadly rank doesn't hold sway with these Johnnies !!), but then again I only live four miles away, though it can still take an age to get home during the mass exodus. The Viggen was sublime...like the Vulcan though, and for good reason, they can't throw the beast around like they used to, (seeing the JA come in for an amazingly short stop using full reverse, stopping, then reversing up the runway a ways, swinging around and then blasting off in full reheat they way it had just come was always great to watch !!). It's good to see a Viggen in bare metal for a change, shows the brutal shape off perfectly.
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  39. Thanks chaps. Rod. I love those photographs of the chipmunks breaking. What a way to spend a weekend.... As ever I've had a busy week first week back at work after leave. But have manged to spend a bit of time with my own chipmunk. Not quite as exciting as Rod's though. First the modified propeller. I had to think of a way of attaching the blades to the new spinner and came up with this (the blades are cut from the original propellor and have been refined a bit further): After a coat or two of white here is a profile view of the new propeller for comparison. To my eyes the more pointed new spinner is more accurate and captures the aircraft's lines better: I also got some work done on the canopy. First - it was easy enough to apply the relevant Airfix decals and dip it again in Klear. I've also shaped the bottom of the rear of the canopy slightly. I sanded a slight reverse curve to hint at the shape of the real thing. The Airfix canopy I used as the master is the wrong shape. I haven't been able to recreate it completely - but it's a nod in the right direction. Next - Rod highlighted the internal support structure. You can see it well in this photo (probably one of Rod's): Actually - I've a feeling of deja vu about this. I started some internal structure for my original abortive canopy (many pages ago) but had to junk it. Anyways. Version two started like this: The large flat piece of card taped to the rod is a make shift jig to help me glue the little crescent shaped piece at the cooorrect angle to the rod. As here: And a coat of black: And gluing it into position with Formula 560 canopy glue (thabnks to Bill for the reccomendation): First bit done: And both bits in. Phew..... And just rested in position for a sneak preview: My eyes need a rest after that. So a glass or three of white wine is in order - hopefully a bit more to be done over the weekend. Getting there. Glacially - but getting there. Steve
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  40. That's a great start! I keep seeing the RB6 on the shelf at the local hobby shop and asking myself 'Shall I? Shan't I?' and if this thread continues like it has begun, I'll be back there next week with some cash!
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  41. Hi all you may remember that nearly all my other posts are Bomber Command a/c, well these two aint, F106 Delta Dart, 148th Monogram from box but Aeromaster decals. Didn't go on too well or like Klear by the look of it. Good job the picture ain't a close up EE Lightning F1a, 56Sqdn. 1/48th Airfix, from box including decals. Not a good idea, would have changed for after market if time allowed. Regards Paul
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  42. Amen Jonners... big chains removing any last vestige of individuality from the high street is not going to save them from becoming ghost towns.
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  43. Finished for the Modelling Madness 'whif' for Canadian types what could have been or should be. Italeri 1/72nd kit. Leading Edge decals. I have depicted mine as in use with the AETE at Cold Lake, Alta., with a 'zap' by 441(Silver Fox) Squadron on the fin. And making use of some of the many unused decals from the Combat Hornet set and finished in Hornet greys.
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  44. Well, it's done. Started with Dragon's 110 D/E night fighter kit with LSCM's resin conversion, under the assumption that it would be a relatively easy conversion. It was not. The main problem was the poor quality of the conversion set. First of all, the quality was not that good. The engine nacelle didn't fit well. It also lacked details - various bits and bumps on the surface were missing. The vaccuum formed canopy was cracked in the box, and it also didn't fit. Apart from poor fitting parts with poor details, another thing is that the set isn't complete. It doesn't include the correct fuselage cannons, and the rear seat is inaccurate for most 110Gs (it's only accurate for very late 110Gs such as the one at Hendon). The set doesn't actually include new wheels and tires - which can be sourced from the Dragon D/E kit but not from the C or D boxings. I also ended up having to scribe several panels underneath the fuselage - the layout of the panels and shell ports is accurate up to the 110F. In short, I would recommend against the LSCM conversion set. External fuel tanks, a promiment feature of many 110s were sourced form MDC. I ended up using the exhaust pipes from the old Revell 110G kit. I also used quite a few parts from the old Eduard 110G detail set, which I had bought years earlier. I'm not completely happy with the mottling - I definitely need more practice. Some positive things about the build: the MDC DB605 is a thing of beauty. I used Miracle Masks for the first time and they worked brilliantly. I also owe Pip Moss who designed the decal for the kill marks on the tail. Anyway, on to the pics! thanks for looking & comments & feedback is very welcome! Elger
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  45. I didn't ponder too long, as that way leads to a shelved model. I added some Signalbraun and a little white to the basic Lifecolor pot to give it a browner hue, and I think it's kind of worked... it doesn't look as green as it did before anyway I also masked off the wing-roots to get a nice clean demarcation, and also masked off the nose, which I sprayed later, trying to give it a slightly different "style" of edge, to infer the grafting on and subsequent painting of the cannon nose. I tried to keep it subtle though, as no painter would intentionally misalign the edges if you see what I mean I'll play around with the base shade a bit, and then put the RLM82 splinter on the wings & tail. Would they really have been hard-edge, or more likely soft-edged at this stage of the proceedings? Thanks for the effort John Meanwhile the tiny terror has been in the workshop, and the Xtracrylix RLM81 bottle has done a Lord Lucan. I've been trying to find it by looking at the workshop from the perspective of someone that's around 3'4", but haven't turned anything up yet, so it kind of forced my hand. Kids! EDIT: Just found it, and it wasn't the boy - I was maligning him unfairly based upon past performance!
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  46. Here's an idea for Revell... provide decals for the special scheme, but also provide decals for the same aircraft as a bog-standard line jet either before or after it wore the special scheme. Everybody's happy! Just for the record, I'd always go for the bog-standard scheme.
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  47. Now that the wind has abated for all of five minutes, I have managed to get outside to prime the model. Halford's Red Primer was used to prime the entire tank, then once dry the barrel was gently slid out from position and coated in Humbrol Tank Grey aerosol to replicate the factory heat resistant primer used on the real vehicles. A coat of hairspray will ffollow then I will apply the camo via airbrush.
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  48. Hi All, Here is my latest build, which I am happy to say was terrific fun from start to finish. In fact it was such fun that I didn’t even bother to photograph the sprues (absent the fuselage halves which a previous owner had untidily liberated from those same sprues). The fun was so great that I also didn’t bother to take any work in progress shots either, since it was a simple “Matchbox”® kit from a 1973 boxing, which saw it built rather rapidly. Now that it’s complete I can share my musings on this kit, which I first experienced through a 1974/75-style boxing as a child of 8. Although I no longer have any of the many kits I built as a child, I have been fortunate enough to acquire a number of old “Matchbox”® kits, many which I built as a child as well as a few that my father built which I couldn’t help but covet at the time. If this keeps up though I can see myself ending up with some old Airfix, Crown, Otaki, and Hasegawa kits as well which is fine of course as long as I build them. Anyway onto the kit I have decided that the best way to review it as such is to list the kits advantages counterpointed by its disadvantages to give a more comprehensive picture of what is on offer as follows below. Advantages This kit offers a little something for everyone, since it has various features from a variety of F4U Corsair sub types. If you like the F4U-4 you get a terrific port wing with quite accomplished renderings of its details like the gun panels, three machine gun ejection ports, recognition lights and more. All of this is represented by recessed panel lines that are equal to the state of the art from Airfix® today. If you like the early F4U-4 or the F4U-1D, the canopy has you and the pilot figure covered there. As to pilot figures this kit has one which is better than having none since it is not unreasonable for a modeller to be given the option to glue someone’s bum to a seat if they are so inclined. The cockpit is floorless which is also perfect for the all F4U aircraft except the F2G and F4U-4 and beyond of course. Then there’s the cowling if you like the F4U-4 it features the chin carburettor intake while if you like the F4U-1D or FG-1D the lower cowling is round instead of flattened like on the F4U-4. As a bonus if the F4U-4B or F4U-5 amongst others is more to your tastes you get the wing-mounted 20mm canons to stick on the front of the wings. Although the pitot tube with a dongle on the end and aft fuselage upper antenna mast is provided. You don’t have to bother with IFF, radio altimeter antennas, pylons or any other appendages, which would only get broken if one used such things, so that right there is a terrific feature amongst many! Disadvantages This kit offers a little something for everyone, since it has various features from a variety of F4U Corsair sub types. This can be a bit disappointing if you were after something more representative of the type listed on the box. One could note the fact that the port starboard wing is a copy of the port wing down to its recognition lights. Or otherwise spot the fact that recessed panel lines represent the flap footstep on both wings instead of featuring a cut out on the starboard wing only. Not to mention all of the other features that may not be your cup of tea if you have Kinzey’s, Sullivan’s, Maki’s Yamada’s, Kuroki’s, Hards’, and others work on the Corsair. Advantages The tail plane and elevators features recessed details that represent quite well albeit heavily the details found on the real thing. Disadvantages Those same tail planes and elevators feature the above-mentioned details upon the upper surfaces only. This is in error since the details should be present on the port side upper surfaces and starboard side lower surfaces only. The trim tab control rods have also been omitted. Advantages The transfers, considering in this instance are circa 40 years old performed admirably well. To the point where they conformed quite well, which is not bad considering scissors then tweezers, plus hot water in a teacup and tissue paper were the only aids used. Disadvantages The fuselage "Marines" markings were somewhat oversize in this instance, which if I recall correctly was never a problem in my first build of this kit in 1979. Advantages According to “Matchbox”® no painting is necessary which is terrific if you like clean builds. Disadvantages According to “Matchbox”® no painting is necessary which is disappointing if you like the smell of enamel paint and were wanting to have dark blue fingers. Advantages It comes with a stand that features a ball and socket assembly, which cleverly allows the modeller to display their work in a variety of dramatic attitudes. Disadvantages The socket that comes with the stand is a bit too agricultural in appearance for such enlightened times. Advantages This kit has 41 part if you include the display stand which allows one to undertake a timely build which will allow you to fly it around the house under control of course, while terrorising the cat (please note: that no cats were permanently harmed during this build). Not to mention it’s great for a beginner to cut his or her teeth on and can also be fun to build again, for someone who had the pleasure a long time ago. Disadvantages It’s not the “Matchbox”® Zero-Sen kit which has 32 parts including the display stand! Advantages The kit is moulded with oxford and azure blue plastic, which is terrific since it, looks quite fetching in combination with the willow green transfers that feature in one of the build options. Disadvantages The kit is molded with oxford and azure blue plastic, which can be a bit disappointing if one, wants to paint the kit more easily in order to make it look even more splendid. Advantages It is a 1-72nd scale kit, which is considered by some to be the perfect scale for aeroplane kits. It is also ideally sized to allow more to fit on the shelf or if one is really interested in displaying their model at its best. It also allows more to be hung from the ceiling with some fishing line to roar over ones bedroom by day and night. Disadvantages It is a 1-72nd scale kit, which is considered by some to be too small for an aeroplane kit. What were “Matchbox”® thinking? Did they not realize that the optically challenged might have to don ridiculous implements like glasses or heaven forbid even an optiVISOR in order to glue the bits together! Advantages If you assemble it right the propeller can spin! Disadvantages If you assemble it wrong the propeller won’t spin! Advantages It is made in England; it says so on the box, on the instructions and even on the sprues as well. Disadvantages It was made in England; so now it isn’t anymore. That doesn’t mean that things aren’t still made in England! Fortunately Lancashire Cheese is still made in England. Unfortunately you can’t get it in a small Australian town on the edge of the outback where I type this review. Or for that matter even the largest Australian city where I used to live or anywhere else in Australia, this apparently has something to do with customs and dairy imports! Advantages It’s not Lancashire Cheese! Disadvantages It’s not Lancashire Cheese! Advantages It is a perfect companion for the before mentioned “Matchbox”® 1-72nd scale Mitsubishi Zero-Sen kit which was molded in a splendid orange and white combination which made it ideal for the occasional aerial encounter while watching Black Sheep Squadron on’tele. Disadvantages It isn’t a perfect companion for that Zero-Sen kit in the occasional aerial encounter while watching Victory at Sea on’tele, something about them both doesn’t look quite right. Summary The “Matchbox”® 1/72nd scale F4U-4 Corsair is a terrific kit to build and I would heartily recommend it to the beginner for a great introduction and the advanced builder alike for a fun diversion. I still think it’s a shame these kits aren’t still in circulation in the style they once were with all that lovely coloured plastic inside a box that let you peak inside at the back while a dramatic scene on the top inspired one to give it a go. Though it’s great Airfix is revamping its range I can’t help but wonder what will happen to those more simple kits that provided the best training for those wanting to learn the hobby of plastic model kit assembly. Matchbox were very good at providing kits for the newcomer that were easy enough to keep one keen while generally assembling much more easily than most other brands in the 1970’s. Not to mention I still like the subjects they chose. Unfortunately though there weren’t enough of us to keep it going. Even I moved on to better things via Otaki, Hasegawa, Tamiya and many others. If you have any Matchbox kits I encourage you to have fun and build one or if you know someone you’d like to introduce to the hobby get them to have a go at one. Who knows they might even like it, like my wife Jo (who has built a Hellcat) my son Aeddan (who has built a Zero-Sen) and daughter Isabella (who has built a Mustang “Doolybird”) did. As to what’s next, shown above is my personal Matchbox to do pile, I intend to get them all done this year and will even paint some of them along the way. So whichever I pick next I will share some of my progress from start to finish here on Britmodeller, so till then… Cheers, Daniel. P.S. If anyone is looking to undertake a Matchbox group build on Britmodeller, please count me in as well as my family. References: Fighter Bomber Team, Air Ace, Picture Library, All Action, Holiday Special, IPC Magazines Ltd., 1980. “Matchbox”® 1/72nd scale F4U-4 Corsair Instructions, Lesney Products & Co. Ltd., 1972. All images Copyright ©2013 Daniel Cox.
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  49. The late Triassic was enormous fun though! Of course there were some brilliant modellers even in those days but for many of us the dawning realisation fostered by people like Alan Hall (aircraft), Chris Ellis (AFVs) and Peter Hodges (ships) that you didn't have to finish the kit in the markings it came in and could even convert it into somethng that looked entirely different was very exciting and unleashed tides of enthusiastic bodging. (I even recall building a Deacon SP gun on a Matador chassis out of postcard because plastic card was unknown in my neck of the woods.) Almark have a very honourable part in that history. And, because there wasn't the wealth of brilliant research material there is nowadays, there were fewer rivet-counters out there to inhibit us!
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  50. Supermarine Victor Mk XIV What if the Rolls-Royce Vulture engine had been successful and so RR abandoned development of the Griffon? The Supermarine Victor is a Spitfire with a Napier Sabre engine. Build thread here.
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