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Mike

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Everything posted by Mike

  1. aboard Olli. Thanks for correcting your first post Correcting isn't really the right word, but it was the only one I could think of right now
  2. aboard Mikhail. Good to see you entering into the spirit of the forums. Post up your models with impunity!
  3. Yep. You're not alone. You have to take a breath every now and again to de-clutter, but it doesn't take long to get back to the same state again Lovely Sukhoi BTW. GWH make good kits
  4. Great job. Why do I these ugly Dorniers so much?
  5. Me too, and from this seller. Martin is active on here and is happy to chat things over without the hard sell. We've reviewed some of the Sil-Air compressors, and they're so quiet that y9ou have to check they're actually on if it's not totally silent in the room. I use one all the time, and you just have to change the oil every year or so, which is quite easy if you're handy with a spanner. Undo the bolts on the shroud, undo the clip holding the top on the compressor body, syphon off the oil, then put some clean oil in. Job's a good 'un
  6. I'm becoming convinced that my desk has a wormhole on it. I cut the radio antenna off the sprue, cut three more tiny parts off, and then looked down. The antenna was gone. Can't find it anywhere. I hoovered the desk and the floor. nothing. Even checked all my clothing and elbow braces, just in case it had lodged there. Nope. Using the sprue photo resized to fit the real sprue, I've just made yet another small part from scratch, using a piece of 2mm x 0.8mm rod as the starting point. The Vengeance seems to be fighting me on the little things. on the upside, the canopy is repainted, and this time I masked ALL the panes I might take a pic tomorrow if I don't lose my camera
  7. No, thankfully. That would be a BEAST both in terms of size, complexity and cost
  8. Mike

    RIP Ray Liotta

    My favourite memory of him is sat at a kitchen table with his skull open, eating parts of his own brain at the end of the Hannibal movie. My OH told me about it this avo, and it was quite a surprise, as he wasn't that old. Hopefully it was painless. RIP.
  9. It's a very scary rabbit-hole to go down... for your wallet at least
  10. Very nice tidy build, with just the right amount of weathering
  11. It varies. If there's a backing, such as in a gearbay, I tend to use Blutak, adding a sausage around the edge, poking it into place with a modelling tool, then either adding a flat piece of Blutak in the centre or filling it with tape. If there's no backing to the hole, try putting tape behind it before you close up your model, and add a little tab to allow you to pull it through when you're done. You could also put Blutak in the hole from behind and drag it out with tweezers. Some people use foam, some use wet tissue, and they all have their pros & cons. Experiment and see what suits you
  12. aboard - I'd like to apologise for my poor English too! Enjoy the forums
  13. Intrepid Class Sensor Array (15321-1/1000 & 15221-1/670 for Polar Lights & Revell) 1:1000 & 1:670 GreenStrawberry Star Trek Voyager was one of the early spin-offs from The Next Generation, and was rather successful, extending to seven series that spanned two millennia (1995-2001 in case you wondered). After departure from Deep Space 9 on their first mission, then being whipped far away from their home sector to the Delta Quadrant by the ‘Caretaker’ that following its death would see them travelling for a lifetime to reach home, they set off on the way back, meeting many friends and foes along the way, getting the occasional leap-frog to get them closer, and problems to set them back along the way. The Intrepid class was fortuitously designed for long missions, and was compact in size at roughly half the length of the then-current Enterprise with a relatively small crew of just over 140 souls under normal circumstances. It was technologically advanced, having variable geometry warp nacelles, an emergency medical hologram system, and many other fancy things to fit the storyline. The Kits The larger Revell kit is 1:670 or 1:677 if you believe Scalemates, and it has been around a long time now, since the mid 90s when the show first aired. It is a product of its time, so will welcome any upgrades that can be thrown at it, and you can see some of the other GS sets here, which covers pretty much the rest of the spaceframe. The Polar Lights kit is smaller at 1:1000 and was released in 2021 as part of a range of new range of Star Trek ships that also included the then-new Discovery with its weird mushroom powered propulsion system, that seems silly when you say it out loud. The main difference between the two sets relates to their size. There are the same number of parts in each set, and they both arrive in the same compact-sized black box with their usual green and red themed printing. Inside each box is a Ziploc bag of five grey resin casting blocks that contain twelve parts each set, plus a folded instruction sheet that acts as a damper to protect the contents during shipping and handling. The instructions are functionally identical, although they are laid out slightly differently between the two scales. The narrow, curved sensor arrays are set into the edges of the saucer section, and these require the possible deepening of removal of the blank backing plates behind the kit inserts and replacing them with the corresponding resin parts, along with two more on each side of the main hull, an inverted coffin-shaped array on the sloped front of the saucer, and a final trapezoid array at the back of the saucer where it blends into the hull. Each part is correctly shaped and contoured to fit the model, and improves on the kit details to make it a worthwhile exercise. 15221-1/670 for Revell 15321-1/1000 for Polar Lights Conclusion If you have either or both of the two kits and want to bump up the detail, these sets are just the ticket. The detail is to the usual high standard we’ve come to expect from GreenStrawberry, and that’s why they’re my favourite Sci-Fi upgrade company. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  14. Is that the same as this one here? https://store.steampowered.com/app/1546500/Warplanes_WW1_Fighters/ I've played it for an hour on the simplest arcadey settings, and quite enjoyed it. I'll probably have another go next time I'm feeling a bit VR-y.
  15. I watched it, found it interesting at times, amusing at other times, and confusing at others. I didn't mind it overall, but wasn't all that bothered when I ran out of episodes to watch. It was nice seeing Poe Dameron again, and although he got a lot of stick for it in the media, I thought he did a pretty decent job of his English accent. A lot better than Kevin Costner in Prince of Thieves, and he didn't lapse into 'Murcan once.
  16. New rule for this thread, we need pics or it didn't happen
  17. It's all good learning stuff I've got a bottle of 5% ammonia solution that I've just found again after 2 years of it being lost post workshop-refit, and that would probably do the trick too. I wanted to be sure that it wouldn't marr the surface or clarity of the part, and the Klear bottle was right there. Tell you what though, slip-ups like this are yet another reason why Klearing a canopy is a damn good idea, as it gives you a layer of redundancy if you stuff it up like I did
  18. North American P-51D Mustang (A05131A) 1:48 Airfix The P-51D was developed by the North American Aviation company as a possible fighter for Great Britain, but due to the poor performance of the engine initially fitted it wasn’t all that good. Luckily, they strapped a Rolls-Royce Merlin engine into the airframe and it brought out the best of its design, which included the energy efficient laminar flow wing that gave it the potential to escort Allied bombers all the way to Berlin with the addition of drop-tanks and a lean mixture when not in combat. It was flown in this guise as the Mustang III in British service, and as the P-51B/C in US service, then as the P-51D with the bubble canopy and cut-down aft fuselage, with an additional fin-fillet added later to improve stability that had been reduced by the new shape and fuel tank location. This is the Mustang that most people think of when they hear the name, unless they’re more of a petrol head. The Kit This is a reboxing with different parts and new decals that is based upon the initial release in 1:48 in 2017 of this accomplished fighter, a release that was greeted with enthusiasm by the modelling community in general. It has a so-called cuff-less prop, which was sometimes fielded alongside the cuffed variety. The box is typical Airfix with a red-theme, and a digital painting of one of the decal options in the midst of splashing an Me.262, which Allied fighters were prone to doing when the German Schwalbes were in their vulnerable landing or take-off phase of flight, as the early Junkers Jumo engines were unable to spool up their engines for last-minute combat in the event of an emergency. Inside there are four large sprues and one small one in pale grey styrene, a clear sprue that is separately bagged, a medium decal sheet and the instructions in Airfix’s modern style, with colour profiles for painting and decaling on the rearmost pages. By now we’re mostly familiar with the Airfix Mustang, and detail is still good, with crisp panel lines, clever moulding to maximise detail and variants from the same tooling, coupled with good raised and engraved details where appropriate, including fasteners around the engine cowling and other parts. You even get a pilot with separate arms if that sort of thing appeals to you. Some love them, others don’t. Construction begins traditionally with the cockpit, which has a nicely detailed and quilted seat with moulded-in seatbelts, and lap belts that are moulded into the backrest support. The seat attaches to a chunky piece of pilot armour, and is joined in the long cockpit/radiator trunk/tail-wheel well base by the radio gear that sits on top of the fuselage fuel tank. The tanks were self-sealing, but it still must have been a little unnerving for the pilot to be that close to liquid fire. The control column and instrument panel with coaming are added too, along with a decal for the instruments, then the radiator bath and trunking assembly is made up and fitted to the underside of the cockpit, while the tail-wheel bay is boxed in with optional open doors captive to the side parts. These doors can be removed if posing your model with wheels up, and the tail strut minus wheel is set inside after painting. The cockpit sidewalls are separate parts that are added to the insides of the fuselage, rather than risking surface sink-marks by moulding them in, and permitting better detail with additional parts plus a couple of decals to busy up your painted ‘pit. These are put in place with a perforated panel insert in the underside of the nose, and the filleted tail insert that you are advised to check is perfectly upright before the glue sets – good call. The completed cockpit assembly is added to the port side, then closed up within the fuselage, with a separate top nose cowling part ensuring no tricky seam is present in the middle of this prominent area. The wings have a full width lower, into which the main gear bay is fitted with a small length of wing spar depicted, and a choice of opening up two holes in each wing to accommodate the included two styles of drop-tanks. The separate upper surfaces with the distinctive leading edge root kink are fitted to the top with three clear ID lights showing through the underside, triple .50cal wing inserts (4 per wing became common later), and a choice of dropped or retracted flaps by using different parts from the sprues, plus a couple of decals from the sheet, complete with a scrap diagram that shows their location on the flaps. The ailerons are outboard, and can show a deflection of 15o in either direction at your discretion, remembering to make one go up, the other go down. Next the instructions show the correct insertion method of the wing to the fuselage, fitting the trailing edge under the radiator intake first, then pressing the leading edge into place ready for the lower wing/chin insert that closes the area over. At the tip of the nose is another small insert with a back plate that holds the stub axle for the prop in place, and a front plate plus chin intake that completes the nose, save for the prop, which is added later, although exhausts are placed in their slots at this point. Speaking of intakes, the radiator intake lip is separate to achieve a nice fine edge and do away with any frustrating sanding in that area, which is great news. At the opposite end of the radiator trunking there are two exhaust flaps, the larger of which can be posed open or closed by cutting off the mounting pips on the inside of the trunk. The filleted tail fin is joined by the elevators with separate flying surfaces and these too/two can be set to between 30o positive and 20o negative deflection, remembering that they always work in unison unless they’re broken. The rudder too can be posed deflected to 30o to either side should you so wish. Airfix have a very sensible approach to landing gear in their modern kits, supplying separate parts for closed bays that avoids all the fiddly task of trying to make separate sections of the doors fit snugly together. The main and tail wheel doors all work in this way for the wheels-up modeller, and for wheels down there are separate parts, retraction jacks and even linkages for the captive parts of the doors, which is really nice to see. The inner main doors attach back-to-back in the centre of the bay, while the main doors fix to the struts with a C-shaped linkage, adding a clear landing light into the bay. The wheels are two-part affairs with a seam round the circumference of the diamond treaded tyres, which will take a little clean-up, but probably won’t reduce you to tears, or you could pick up some resin wheels if you really can’t face the task. The little tail-wheel just fits onto the strut’s circular attachment point, leaving you only one hub to cut the demarcation between tyre and hub on. You have a choice of two types of drop-tanks, either smooth with a seam round the centreline, or fluted with ribs, both of which fit onto the same type of pylon in the holes you drilled earlier. An L-shaped pitot probe goes in the hole under the starboard wing, then the prop is made up from either the four cuffed blades or cuffless variety on a central hub, back-plate with internal detail, boss and spinner, which all fits onto the stub axle you buried in the nose earlier. The final jobs include deciding whether you want to crew your Mustang with the included three-part pilot, then providing him with some cockpit glazing. The windscreen has a small portion of the fuselage skin moulded in for ease, and has the coaming cover and gunsight added inside on a bracket before it is fitted, plus the rear canopy that has a stiffener bar and rear cover before it too is attached in the open or closed position. It’s really nice to see Airfix paying attention to the small details such as canopy internals, which is also bound to expand the market for two-sided masks such as those offered by Eduard and NewWare Masks. The rear-view mirror and aerial mast on the spine are last to be added, although that’s probably going to be a long time later after main painting is complete. Markings There are two decal options in this boxing, both substantially different from each other to please many, and with a full sheet of A4 devoted to each one. The stencils are covered on a separate page for simplicity, and all the Humbrol colours are called out on each page to minimise flicking backward and forward, which many (self-included) find a little confusing and annoying. From the box you can build one of the following: P-51D-15-NA Mustang ‘The Millie G’ Maj. Edward Bonfoy Giller, 343rd Fighter Sqn., 55th Fighter Group, 8th Air Force, USAAF, RAF Wormingford, Essex, England, 1944-5 P-51K-1-NT Mustang ‘Frisco Kid’ Lt. John Carl Casey, 363rd Fighter Sqn., 357 Fighter Group, 8th Air Force, USAAF, RAF Leiston, Suffolk, England, 1944 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Airfix have widened their repertoire of Mustangs yet again with the choice of cuffed or non-cuffed props plus some new decal options, and as per the previous releases it’s good model that’s a sound seller. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  19. I did a bit of weathering and streaking on the Vengeance last night, and decided that I could remove some of the masking, as the majority of the painting is finished now. I started at the front and worked my way back until I got to one pane on the rear slider, which I couldn't seem to get off. There was a reason for that, dummy here had forgotten to mask it, and hadn't noticed before I started spraying paint all over it I had a careful look at it and considered scraping it off, until it occurred to me that I'd Kleared the canopy, as usual. Why is that worthy of note? Because once upon a time I decided to re-dip a painted canopy in Klear, and it brought all the paint off! So, in advance of getting out the caustic chemicals, I dropped the part into my decanted Klear bottle (and old Lifecolor pot), and went in for the evening to watch some TV. Today I looked at the pot, and it was a pooey brown colour, which was a good sign. I agitated it and it turned a darker shade of brown, with lots of bits swirling round. I pulled out the part and washed it in some clean water to get rid of any residue, and I was pleased to find that it was almost pristine! Here's a pic of the stripped canopy, and the goopy mess it made of my Klear. It's a shame to waste a thimbleful of Klear, but the other option was trying to get a spare canopy. It was a no-brainer really. I'll remask it, line it with Blutak so I don't get any overspray on the inside, paint it whichever colour it was (I've forgotten), and crack on, which should be a little easier now that the Claude is finished
  20. Thanks Pete et al It says "Acrylic Lacquer for Airbrush" on the bottle, which is highly confusing. They don't smell bad though, and clean-up is with cellulose thinners, although I use Premi-air Liquid Reamer for most of my clean-ups. Someone with more chemical knowledge would have to chime in to explain exactly what that means though, as Gunze and Tamiya "acrylics" can be thinned with water or cellulose, and that also confuses the hell out me
  21. Mike

    YP-59 Airacomet

    That’s what I said, diddle I?
  22. Mike

    YP-59 Airacomet

    Don't you know anything about Airacomet? (In-joke between Julien & I )
  23. Taa laa I do like the MRP metals. I might take a punt on some of their other shades if the opportunity arises. Maybe some of the new Japanese colours seeing as I'm on a bit of run with them at the moomin.
  24. having reviewed the base kit here, I know you've done a great job
  25. Mike

    Sanding Seams

    The important thing is we understand what you mean
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