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Mike

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Everything posted by Mike

  1. When they say "interconnected" does that include the Google Nest smoke/carbon monoxide alarms? Not cheap, but they'd do for an existing property because you don't need any wires.
  2. I started out with a ZX81 but decamped to the Commodore 64 when I could convince my folks to get me a better machine. A friend and I wrote a game called Slayer, which was a rip of R-Type that I noticed someone mentioned earlier. I've currently got 2 ZX81s - one a rare series 1 with wavy traces on the motherboard, a Spectrum 48k, and a bunch of other retro PCs of various brands. I missed out on the later Sinclair QL, as the prices started to rise before I got into them. Apparently, it was a good machine, but was let down by the push toward being a business machine. Oh, and the tapes, which would unspool at the drop of a hat. RIP Sir Clive. You sparked an interest in computers in a generation of British kids.
  3. aboard Thedo... that was fast! I've only just finished validating the rest of the queue and here you are. Enjoy the forum
  4. Good stuff. It's a tricksy kit, although not impossible. If I can manage to finish one (a French one), anyone can
  5. Messerschmitt Bf.109G-6 (A02029B) 1:72 Airfix With almost 34,000 examples constructed over a 10-year period, the Messerschmitt Bf.109 is one of the most widely produced aircraft in history and it saw active service in every theatre in which German armed forces were engaged. Designed in the mid-1930s, the Bf.109 shared a similar configuration to the Spitfire, deploying monocoque construction and V12 engine, albeit an inverted V with fuel injection rather than a carburettor used in the Spit. Initially designed as a lightweight interceptor, like many German types during WWII, the Bf.109 evolved beyond its original brief into a bomber escort, fighter bomber, night fighter, ground-attack and reconnaissance platform. The Bf.109G series, colloquially known as the Gustav, was first produced in 1942. The airframe and wing were extensively modified to accommodate a more powerful engine, greater internal fuel capacity and additional armour. In contrast to early 109s, which were powered by engines delivering less than 700hp, some of the later Gustavs could output almost 2000hp with water injection and high-performance superchargers. The Gustav series accounted for a dizzying array of sub-variants, some of which featured a larger tail of wooden construction. Odd number suffixed aircraft had pressurised cockpits for high altitude operation, Erla Haube clear view canopy with clear rear head armour, underwing points for tanks, cannon or rockets and larger main wheels resulting in square fairings on the inner upper wings to accommodate them. The Kit Airfix's Bf.109G-6 dates back to 2009, and as such is one of the earlier kits released under Hornby's ownership. The kit bears all the hallmarks of that particular era, with a low part count and broad, deep panel lines. Those hoping that this would be a re-tooling of the aforementioned kit will be disappointed, as the plastic is exactly the same as that provided in the original release. The kit is part of Airfix's Skill Level 1 range, and it arrives in a top opening box with the kind of dramatic artwork that we have come to expect from Big Red. Inside the box are three sprues of grey plastic and a single, small clear sprue. There are just 41 parts in total, which is quite low when you consider that the more recent 'Emil' in the same scale is made up of 64 parts. Out of the box the kit is cleanly moulded and the plastic has a satin finish to it. The cockpit is extremely spartan, comprising of a simplified seat, pilot and nothing else. There is no instrument panel, no control column and no sidewall detail, which harks back to days gone by. This is in stark contrast to the Emil, as that kit was very nicely detailed, despite being part of the series 1 range. The instructions recommend that the propeller be joined to the fuselage at the same time that the fuselage halves are joined, but I would recommend leaving this step until the end as it will make painting more difficult otherwise. The bulges for the 13mm MG 131s on the upper fuselage in front of the cockpit are inaccurate as they are represented by a single large bulge rather than two separate bulges on each side of the fuselage with a depression between them. The wings follow the usual format for a model of this type, with a single span lower wing and separate port and starboard upper wings. Flaps and control surfaces are moulded in place, but some basic structural details have been moulded onto the roof of the main landing gear bays. The horizontals stabilisers are moulded as solid parts, as is the rudder. As with other recent Airfix kits, there are different parts provided for you to use if you wish to pose your model with landing gear up or down. The landing gear legs provided for the down option are moulded in place with the bay doors, which is a plus point for strength and ease of assembly, but a negative point in terms of detail and ease of painting. A drop tank and two under wing gun pods are provided, along with a choice of canopies, including the aforementioned Erla Haube canopy. Both are duplicated and moulded in one piece, but this is no great loss given the lack of internal detail. Markings There are the usual two options from the included decal sheet, both different enough to give you variety, and both having some fun schemes that will test your masking and airbrushing skills. Option A has a saw-tooth splinter pattern on the wing uppers, while option B has a an RLM75 sinewave squiggle on all its upper surfaces. Better get your airbrushing and/or masking skills honed for either option. From the box you can build one of the following: Bf.109g-6 Maj. Herman Graf, Jagdgeschwader 50, Wiesbaden/Erbenheim, Germany, Autumn 1943 Bf.109GF-6/R6 Lt. Manfred Dieterle, 3./Jagdgeschwader 300, Bonn-Hangelar Airfield, Germany, Mar-April 1944 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This isn't the most detailed nor the most accurate Gustav on the market. It also lacks finesse in terms of the overall finish. All-in-all, there isn't much here to tempt the modeller with a primary focus on detail. Having said that, this is probably one of the cheapest Gustavs around, which is perhaps a hint to its intended market? Possibly the best thing about the kit is that it shows how far Airfix have come since this kit was initially tooled. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. No problem. You're doing a lot better than I would be doing if the tables were turned
  7. I've moved this to Interwar for you, but I have to ask - what's the "Profile" section? Was it a victim of auto-translate? p.s. if it's not the Interwar Fury, let me know by Reporting the thread with a note of the correct section.
  8. Croatian Military Number Plates (PVDS-001-35) 1:35 & 1:72 PaulusVictor Decalssories We’ve only recently been introduced to PaulusVictor, with our first set of samples making their way through the review queue and onto your screens as I type this. They set themselves apart from standard decal sheets by including a raft of additional information on the type, variants, paint and even the load-outs carried by the subjects that they produce decals for, as well as a high-quality feel to the whole package. This accessory set was included in the delivery and shows another string to their bow. It arrives in a small high quality Ziploc bag, with a cover sheet that has instructions printed on the rear, a sheet of decals and a printed sheet of PVC foil, which we’ll get to later. Number plates. Most countries and their militaries have a particular set of regulations about their depiction in real-scale, encompassing the font, the lettering size and even the plate size, as well as the alpha-numeric code that is laid out on the plates. Most people can tell if plates from their own country are off from 20 paces, but when it comes to someone else’s country, we’re not so good. This set is intended to correct some under-sized or otherwise incorrect plates that have been included in 1:35 models of Croatian military subjects in the past, as well as give you the opportunity to depict models as Croatian vehicles if they weren’t out of the box. Whether that’s in the real world or the land of what-if is entirely up to you. Even if they don’t have Mini Metros in the Croatian army, and I’m fairly sure they don’t, at least the number plate for your Fast Attack Metro (FAM) would be wholly accurate. Most of us are aware of how to apply decals to our models, but a recap is provided on the top of the page, with more task specific instructions on the bottom half. The short version is that you can use decals or PVC foil to act as the plate itself, making a backing plate of your own from styrene sheet if the kit part is undersized, then apply the individual alphanumeric code to the plate, which has the HV country code and a national crest already printed on both types. The PVC sheet tells you to use white glue or CA to attach that material to the model, as PVC isn’t modelling glue soluble, which is good to know. The PVC sheet is satin finished, so you may want to consider adding a gloss coat to it before applying the registration letters, sealing them in with more varnish once they are dry. Conclusion Great attention to detail again, and it’s a range that I’d like to see grow and possibly expand into civilian plates in 1:24 scale. British & US number plates would be very handy for a lot of folks, I’m sure. At the moment, these Croatian plates are available in 1:35 and 1:72 from the link below. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. I've moved this to the correct area. It might be WWII paints, but it's paint. Paint goes here
  10. Review updated with the three Perfect Metal sets, Shell Case, Aircraft and Engine sets, one of which you may have seen before. I've popped them quite near the top of the review to save your scrolling finger
  11. You've got nothing to be sorry for. Imagine if you had to test every link in every link you ever linked to. Too many links in that sentence?
  12. Desert Harriers (PV-003-72) AV-8Bs in Desert Shield and Desert Storm 1990-1991 1:72 Paulus Victor Decals Hawker, then Hawker Siddelely worked on the world’s first operation Vertical Take-Off and Landing (VTOL) attack aircraft surprisingly soon after WWII and the invention of the jet engine, with the ingenious Rolls-Royce Pegasus engine taking a large part of the kudos. America was also involved, and pretty soon there were US Marine aviators flying Harriers (AV-8As to them) vertically as well as RAF and later FAA pilots VIFFing (Vectoring in Forward Flight) to scare the poop out of their opponents and turn the tables on them. Known colloquially and somewhat simplistically in the media as the “Harrier Jump Jet”, the warload it could carry led to the inclusion of S for Short in the acronym, becoming V/STOL, and then STOVL for Short Take-Off Vertical Landing. I give up. The Harrier was so useful that as it became long in the tooth, a new Harrier II was conceived that was a visually only subtly different but otherwise a complete redesign of the original aircraft from the more powerful engine out, using larger composite wings and modern avionics to extend its lifespan immensely. Barely anyone calls it a Harrier II, although the Americans use the code AV-8B, while the UK just used the GR.5/7/9 for the RAF nomenclature. We’ll ignore the two Sea Harrier variants for our purposes. The RAF were forced to retire their Harriers earlier in 2011 by the politicians, who then sneakily sold them to America for “spares”, despite denying that it was happening. Never trust a politician. America continues to fly their Harriers (and some of ours) while they wait for the F-35 to fill the gaps. The Decals Paulus Victor are a new company to us, and have a unique aspect to their products that include a slew of background information and technical assistance to the modeller that often hasn’t been available in the same envelope with decals before. They provide stories, not just decals in isolation. Their packaging is also unique, with a high-quality feel to everything, and attention to detail evident in every aspect of the set. They arrive in a thick Ziploc bag, with an envelope printed in colour on both sides within, and flaps folded-in to prevent excessive movement of the internals. On opening the envelope (which isn’t glued closed), you’ll find a small lined area for your own notes, plus details of the variations between airframes, and a list of sources for additional information about the conflict. Within the envelope is a set of folded instructions that are larger than A3 when unfolded, with the six subjects printed on two sides of A4 plus one side of the fold-out half-sheet. The painting guide helps you through the minor minefield of the painting of these aircraft, which were prepped in a hurry to fly out to the Gulf, with information about the route that included an incredible number of refuelling stops necessary due to the thirsty nature of the “blow torch” jet engines fitted to fighters. The hot & dusty conditions of the Gulf were conducive to rapid weathering, so some discussion is to be had on that subject too. Each squadron was prepared in a slightly different manner, and these inconsistencies continued to appear and disappear throughout their deployment, with each wing given their own space on the fold-out, covering VMA-542 Tigers, VMA-231 Ace of Spades, VMA-311 Tomcats and VMA-331 Bumblebees “Killer Bees”. Beware – there’s a minor bad word on one of the decals for the Bumblebees, so if you’re easily offended, don’t read it and wear a blindfold during application, or model it when it didn’t have the offensive can on its nose. The key take-away is that you are given the information that you need, and you can use it to make your model more accurate. The additional bonus decals can be used to depict your own Desert Harrier options if you’ve a mind to do the research yourself. Speaking of bonuses, you get a free US Marines sticker with front profiles on a faux woven material background. VMA-311 Tomcats, WL-02, 163181 VMA-331 Bumblebees, VL-17, 162726 VMA-542 Tigers, WH-20, 162946 VMA-542 Tigers, WH-40, 162069 VMA-231 Ace of Spades, CG-01, 163662 VMA-231 Ace of Spades, CG-15, 163183 Each subject has notes and even some small photographs of artwork etc., to help you with your preparation, painting and application of the decals. On the left flap of the envelope, you have nine video links provided, and above them are a list of books you can use for further reference on both the Harriers and the Gulf War itself. Obviously, links in a printed form are not the ideal format, but they’re by no means the longest URLs ever, and are well worth a look. Perhaps these could be added to their site at some point to help users with poor typing skills get there. Now about those decals. The decals themselves are printed on two rectangular sheets of blue decal paper at a high resolution that renders all of the stencils legible, providing you have good enough eyesight. They have good registration, sharpness and colour density, and some nicely coloured slime-light decals. Individual decals are included for variations on the airframe’s livery for maximum detail and with minimal carrier film all round. On one of the envelope flaps, you are given sound advice to check your references to ensure you have chosen the best colours and shades for your model if you are planning on going for the ultimate in accuracy. One of the A5 sides of the envelope has a diagram showing which weapons can be found on which of the seven pylon stations that the Harrier has, and with more text that offers advice on the practical application of that capability, discussing the real-world payloads that the Harriers in Marine service carried during the War. Just in case you’re new to waterslide decals or would like to refresh your memory, there are a set of general decal handling and application instructions printed on the rear of the envelope, guiding you through the preparation of the surface, the decals and the application of setting solutions, plus how to seal them for posterity. Conclusion Decal sheets usually come with brief instructions if any, so this new outlook from Paulus Victor is a breath of fresh air, giving you plenty to read, plenty to help you make a more accurate model, and plenty of advice on how to make your painting and decaling process better and more realistic. Very Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  13. Although the site this links to is genuine, there's a link in post 3 "Gelbe 1" that links to a kinky sex site, so you've been warned. You're all grown-ups (in terms of years on this planet at least), so I'll leave it to you to click at your own risk. Cue that site getting huge increase in traffic now
  14. Me.163B Löök Cockpit Set (644117) 1:48 Eduard This set for the new GasPatch Models kit contains a combination of pre-printed resin and PE parts to quickly and efficiently detail up your cockpit. There are two resin parts that make up the instrument panel in front of the pilot, the second part a dramatic emergency release pull-handle and a PE skid lever below it, with glossy faced dials already painted for you on black resin. Additionally, the PE set of four-point belts for the pilot, complete with brown comfort pads that protect the pilot from the buckles. Review sample courtesy of
  15. Guys - I'm going to need everyone to calm down and back away from this. A totally unnecessary spat about hasps & staples, or whatever the hell it's actually about. We're grown-ups, let's act like them.
  16. Boeing B-17G Flying Fortress (A08017B) 1:72 Airfix The B-17 that first flew in 1935 was quite a different beast than the one that flew during WWII, having a glossy bare metal finish, a traditional vertical tail with no fin fillet, and lots of art-deco glass. The press coined the term "Flying Fortress" because of the number of gunnery positions around the aircraft, which stuck and was later trademarked by Boeing. Its first attempt to gain approval and induction into the USAAF was foiled by an unfortunate accident that wrote off the prototype and killed the pilots, but it was given a second bite at the cherry because of its comparative performance, and was eventually accepted into service with more powerful Cyclone engines and without the blister-type waist gunner windows. The E model was probably the first "real" fortress, with a large expanded tail, tail gunner position and guns in the nose. It also has the familiar ball-turret on the underside that stayed with it throughout the rest of production. The F model brought in some more changes, most notable of which is the almost frameless nose glazing, which afforded the bomb-aimer a much better view, although he must have felt commensurately more exposed as a result. The G model with its jutting remotely operated chin-turret was the final mark of the war, and fought doggedly over Europe with a formidable offensive armament consisting of 13 guns. This of course was at the expense of bomb-load, which reduced the further from home the Fortress was sent to bomb. Post war the B-17 was converted and used in a number of civilian roles, as well as some remaining military and pseudo-military roles such as Coast Guard and search and rescue. There are still a comparatively large number of airframes in airworthy condition, and most Brits that have been to the air show circuit (remember those?) have probably seen the Sally-B at some point in their lives. The Kit Airfix released this kit back in 2016 and then followed it up a year later with an RAF Fortress III version and a couple of special editions, one with diorama potential, the other with extra decals. This kit is a rebox of the original release but with new decal options. The red top-opening box is adorned with the usual high-quality artwork, this time showing a flight of aircraft on a bombing run. In a single clear bag are nine sprues in grey styrene and a single clear sprue, holding 245 parts in total if the lid is to believed – I’m not counting them! The mouldings are clean and crisp as we’ve come to expect from modern Airfix, with fine, recessed panel lines and plenty of crisp detail on smaller parts such as the .50 cal gun barrels and breeches. Construction consists of 137 well-laid out stages, which gives a good indication of the complexity of the model. The kit has an astonishingly detailed interior with instrument panel decals in the cockpit, construction of which takes up no fewer than 55 of those 137 stages. Assembly begins with the cockpit, which includes loads of detail for the control columns and seats, and works its way back through the bomb bay and main wing spar and then the various crew stations and beautifully detailed turrets. The amount of interior detail is excellent, particularly so for the scale. All of the interior details, right down to the .50 cal Brownings and breeches, are beautifully moulded and are likely to entice more than a few modellers to open up the interior. The bomb bay is particularly nice and includes a full load of bombs, so think about leaving it with the bay doors open. Once all of that interior detail is in place and the , the fuselage halves can be closed up. The large wings feature separate ailerons and are packed with detailed parts such as the engine firewalls, leading-edge radiator intake trunks, and fuel tanks. Each engine is made up of four parts, as well as the exhausts, turbochargers and their trunking, some of which can be seen within the gear bays. The cowlings can be built up with the cowling cooling flaps open or closed. The elevators feature separate control surfaces from the fins, and the moulded-in vertical fin has the separate rudder trapped between its halves during fuselage closure. In keeping with the rest of the kit, the undercarriage is very nicely detailed, and the tyres of the main wheels are moulded separately to the wheels themselves, which have weighting flat-spots moulded-in and will help achieve a nice, neat finish once painted, and well-detailed gear legs. The wings slot onto the fuselage with the help of the spars, which should provide plenty of strength as well as helping to achieve a positive fit. If the bomb bay doors are to be displayed open to display the aforementioned detail, they will have to be cut in half prior to assembly. Construction then concludes with the installation of the chin turret, the tail turret and the cheek turrets. The parts for the latter items are moulded entirely from clear plastic, which saves fiddling around with small clear parts and getting gluey finger marks all over them. From the box you can build one of the following. B-17G-70-BO, 43-37756 ‘Milk Wagon’ 708th Bomb Squadron, 447th Bomb Group, Eighth Air Force, USAAF, RAF Rattlesden, Suffolk, England, 1945 B-17G-95-BO, 43-38728 ‘5$ with Breakfast’ 851st Bomb Squadron, 409th Bomb Group, Eighth Air Force, USAAF, RAF Eye, Suffolk, England, 1945 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This isn't the only available kit of the B-17 in this scale, but it is up there with the best. This recent tooling has excellent detail and even more parts. It won't be a done-in-a-day build, but it should result in a rewarding experience. Overall, this kit is a real gem and should build up into an excellent model. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  17. Marder 1 on FCM36 Base (36470 for ICM) 1:35 Eduard ICM’s new kit of the ungainly-looking Marder I on French FCM36 chassis crossed the workbench recently here, and Eduard have now released a handy update set in Photo-Etch (PE) brass that takes advantage of the open cab to include pre-painted instruments inside the fighting compartment. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. The set is supplied on two separate frets, one pre-painted over nickel plating, the other bare brass. The first items upgraded are the small inspection hatches that run down the side of each of the skirts, having their clumsy moulded-in latches remove to be replaced by more realistic PE parts with wingnut closures. The pioneer tools have their simplified tie-downs replaced as you’d expect; the twin exhausts are surrounded by curved PE shrouds, with more detailed handles on the inspection hatches on the aft deck nearby. Inside the crew area, the painted parts are used to build up radio gear with a number of parts, plus the framework that attaches it to the sidewall. Four ammunition brackets are made up to fit within the compartment too, with a sighting tool attached to the front edge of the splinter shield to aid in identifying targets. The gun’s support is fitted out with a C-shaped skin inside, then at the rear a pair of PE chains are added to the towing shackles. Review sample courtesy of
  18. They don't make painting mats!
  19. Thinners will bring off your attempts at a Jackson Pollack, but it'll also bring off your gridlines. If that doesn't bother you, give it a go.
  20. Tempest Mk.II Gun Bays (648638 for Eduard/Special Hobby) 1:48 Eduard Brassin After everyone finished jumping up and down with glee at the release of Eduard’s new Mk.II Tempest in 1:48 with its cylindrical cowling and massive radial engine, the detail hounds started to wonder what extras would be around. So far we’ve had a number of sets, and now we have the Gun Bay set. The gun bays on the model are moulded closed, so the first thing you'll need to do it cut the wing apart, making a T-shaped hole in each upper panel, following the panel lines shown in the instructions. You'll also need to chamfer the inner side of the landing light blister inside the lower wing, or your bays won't fit. On first looks, this set appears identical to the Mk.V bays, and to a great extent that is correct, but for the rear lip on the trailing edge of the wing, which has been changed, presumably to make construction easier. The whole bay frame is moulded as a single part per wing, and is given a PE floor with the lower wing internal structure depicted. The two ammo boxes fit into the top of the T each side of the cannons, which are added after, and plumbed in with some small resin parts. The rear of the bay is a mixture of resin and PE parts to obtain the correct thickness of the trailing edge once the bay is offered up to the underside of the upper wing. It fits within the hole, recessed to give a more realistic look and thickness to the bay edges, which are then lined with PE parts that replicate the lip and fastener locations, with the front sections inlaid with more PE to depict the hinges so that the new resin bay doors can be attached folded forwards, while the aft section is loose and usually laid upside down on the wing when removed. A CAD image shows their correct orientation, and Mr Hobby paint codes are called out throughout construction to aid paint choices. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  21. Cold War Soviet Fighters-Bombers Paint Set Vol.2 (A.MIG-7239) AMMO of Mig Jiménez This six-paint set arrives in a cardboard box with a new more recycling-friendly card inner tray with some colour use suggestions on the rear in the form of three-view profiles of the aircraft. Inside are six bottles of various green and brown camo shades in different stages of separation. Each bottle contains 17ml of paint that is dispensed by a dropper that is found under the yellow screw-top cap. Inside each bottle is a little stirring ball that rattles when agitated. AMMO paints separate quite readily, so having a metal ball in the bottle makes mixing them a lot quicker and easier. We’re all familiar with the quality of AMMO paints by now, and they have a pretty good reputation amongst us modellers, and dry a little slower than some of the competition, which can be of benefit when airbrushing or hand painting details. This is the second set in the series, although we've not yet reviewed that one, you can get it here to complement this set. The colours in the box are as follows: A.MIG-0051 Medium Light Green A.MIG-0058 Light Green Khaki A.MIG-0063 Pale Grey (RLM76) A.MIG-0076 Brown Soil A.MIG-0135 Burnt Cinnamon A.MIG-0206 FS34079/BS641 (RLM81) The bottles all look rather similar when they have been allowed to separate in their carton thanks to gravity, but once agitated the differences become apparent. You may want to pick up, or already have white or dark grey/black to modulate the other shades to depict fading, or to create a darker shade to paint a base onto which the pure and lightened colours can be applied. There are many, many Soviet Cold War era aircraft models out there in every scale, so whether you’re a first-time modeller in this category or not, the colours will come in very useful to simplify the painting process, especially the choosing of shades. One addition that would have been useful would have been the actual Soviet paint codes or names to simplify the process further. You may have noticed in the photo above that someone at AMMO has inadvertently labelled the Su-25 Frogfoot as a Mig-25. They won’t live that one down in the hurry! Conclusion If you want to create a realistically painted Cold War Soviet fighter or bomber, this set and its stablemate Volume 1 are going to be very useful to take away any guesswork when it comes time for paint. Review sample courtesy of
  22. If you haven't already, reboot your phone and see whether that clears the issue. it's Settings > General > Shutdown in case you didn't know, and don't forget you'll need to swipe right to confirm, then remember to reboot it with a long press on the button after giving it a few seconds for the "bad ether" to dissipate. Other than that, I'm out of ideas unless you either Google it or look on their support forums, which I'm sure they probably have for mutual support so they don't have to
  23. Russian Air & Space Force Board Numbers 2018 (48056) 1:48 Begemot Decals After the dissolution of the Soviet Union at the end of 1991, the Russian Federation Air Force took over, and because of the fact that every air force has more than a few of their aircraft, tail codes and serial numbers are always present in some shape or form. When we buy a model, we don’t necessarily want to depict the subjects that are on the decal sheet, or we might just screw up the kit decals because we’re fallible humans. If you’re a lover of Russian aircraft, you will be interested in this set of decals, which will keep you going for quite some time. The set arrives in Begemot’s usual Ziploc bag, and behind the cover sheet are a rather impressive six sheets of decals with a printed area of 6” x 8.5” inside the usual red border, plus the little Begemot hippo logo in the bottom right corner. Three pages are essentially the same codes in blue, red and yellow, with a white sheet that has smaller codes and outline digits, plus a bunch of RF- characters in various sizes. The last two sheets are mostly black with white parts, and white outlined black codes, plus BKC РОССИИ, which is a shortened variant of Russian Air Force in Cyrillic (AFAIK) all of which are outlined in white. As we've come to expect from Begemot, the decals are well-printed with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. If you wanted to read the instructions but the photo above is straining your eyes, you can see a PDF of it here. Incidentally, if you also want to pronounce the company name better, you could run it through Google Translate, which gives the “Bedge-mot” or similar. Conclusion If you think you’re going to blow through these codes soon, you must either build a whole heap of models, or you’ve got ambitious plans. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  24. Moved that for you, and you're not an idiot, you're human like the rest of us. Do it a hundred more times and we'll be rethinking that opinion though
  25. I decided on the laughing reaction there, but the "thanks" one would have done too. My brain hurts from all the headbanging, but we'll get there eventually. Here in the north of the UK, I'm not getting many 500 errors, even though we've yet to get electricity or running water (apart from down the walls) here. Eeeh bah gum, Ecky peck!
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