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JeffreyK

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  1. While I have no immediate solution at hand I have a word of consolation that I too have trouble working with my new Mars 4 Ultra. It's proven to be much more finicky than any of my other printers (various Phrozen models and Mars 3). It's mainly to do with resintensile strength and seemingly the printer's ambition to tear things apart... I seem to be unable to dial in just the right settings where the exposure is just right and the prints are stable. It's either stable prints and overexposure or correct exposure but delaminations. I've had some success in taming this issue by reducing the light power to about 95% (currently: 94%). That seemed to get rid of the signs of overexposure while letting the resin cure more stably at the same time. I also inclreased the rest time AFTER exposure, i.e. BEFORE lift to further help with resin bonding before the lift process starts. I'd like to mention though that I changed the AFC for nFEP so this could be one of the issues as nFEP sticks a little more than ACF but is also more light permeable. I also currently use Siraya Fast Navy resin which is not the greatest for tensile strength to begin with. I guess the printer my fair better with other resins.... I updated the firmware to the latest issue and also reached out to Elegoo who sent me a bit of G-code which slows down the lifting speed. Without this extra G-code the printer won't lift any slower than 90mm/min, no matter what you dial in!!! (wtf???) And that's more than twice the speed I normally use for the initial phase (40mm/min). While the smoothness of some parts is amazing overall I'm not over the moon with this machine...it's taken up too much time. Jeffrey
  2. I was going to ask about it in the RFI thread, I forgot about it. Great they included the part! J
  3. Nice one Duncan! A good advert for this kit. How easy (or difficult) is it to mount the speed brakes in the correct, downwards position? Was yours an easy out of the box installation? Or did it need fettling? Just asking as I hope with this kit we’ll see more Sabre models with correct speed brakes, as opposed to all the other kits where the modeller “needs to know”, or they will end up incorrect… J
  4. Without taking engineers's tools to the parts and checking for draft angles, I don't really see anytihng that couldn't be injection moulded. Don't forget, this is Minibase, famous for lots of small, separate parts. J
  5. Yes, but what you can inject you certainly can print and that is the purpose of the tests. It would make absolutely no sense to design all the parts twice, first for 3D printing and then redesign everything with draft angles, webbing etc… J
  6. Reviving this old thread: To those using the Mars 4 Ultra in agner for a while now, how are things going? I'm considering getting one of those for my production line. I use mainly Phrozen printers (Mini and Mighty) but also have a couple of Mars 3 in my arsenal. I would get another Phrozen Mini 8KS but given the huge price difference (at least for me here in Japan) the Mars 4 Ultra is a tempting alternative. I have read of at least one case where a (very experienced) user ended up sending both of his Mars 4 U back, the print quality was just abysmal, no comparison to his other printers, no matter what he tried. Cheers, J
  7. Only if they're imported. The Japanese ones in the next crate will be 50 Yen. 😆
  8. Hmmm, what to do… being in Japan imports have become nearly unaffordable, 30 Euros must be just about 73Trillion Yen now (maybe 10 Trillion more by the time I finished writing this)…plus shipping. I already have a CAT4 resin B nose but was eying up the Wellesprop item too. The good thing about the Hobby2000 release are the decals though… J
  9. The fuselage sides meet the wing vertically, slab-sided. The Hasegawa and Academy kits have "blown" sides, i.e. they bow out laterally and meet the wing kind of tucked in. I'm sure the Clear Prop F-86A will be correct on this if it's been designed from the ground up from quality reference material. J
  10. If it did then that would be bad news for Clear Prop as the Hasegawa cross section is wrong... J
  11. Air brakes are always open on the ground and as Duncan said, at the front those aren't gun bays but the blast panels, there were a few different setups over time. I was sure we'd see an A kit before long, but I would have thought it would be a high pressure moulded kit by one of the mainstream mfs, . Looking forward to it. J
  12. No, none of the existing moulds/tool were altered. The shape was changed in CAD before the steel for the long nose Phantoms (E, G) was cut but the existing short nose kits all remain as they are/were. J
  13. Excellent photos! I've been to Komatsu, sadly, the aggressors were not there at the time. Iwakuni is on my to-do list, I just never get round to going... Jeffrey
  14. Friends at BM, I just realised I dod not communicate this on here... I currently have two bundle deals available on my website, consiting of full Kinetic plastic kits (without decals, but with their respective original PE fret) plus Hypersonic Models resin/ 3D print sets. 1: Kinetic (new tool) F-16A (MLU) + HMR 48055 F-16A Block 1, 5, 10 backdate set 2: Kinetic F-104A/C + HMR 48057 F-104A (Late) update set. Even with shipping factored in, the prices are very competetive There is only a small quantity available. Many thanks for your attention!! J
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