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Showing most liked content on 18/12/15 in all areas

  1. 16 points
    I got this part built model of a liner to redo but it was too far gone to get it back to its former glory. I ended up using it as a rusting techniques test piece. Si:)
  2. 13 points
    As per the title. Nice kit, the only issue I encountered was that the plastic is a little hard, brittle & very glossy (think Classic Airframes) & sirprisingly didn't always want to stick too well using my usual Humbrol liquid poly. Anyway, apart from that a great kit, built OOB with kit markings for Obst Hans-Hugo Witt of JG26, Dortmund April 1940. No weathering as usual for me as I suck big time in that department! According to the blurb in the instructions, Witt was relatively ancient for combat duty at 39 & was also a survivor of the Hindenburg disaster on 1937!
  3. 9 points
    Hi there; Here is my latest kit build. It is my first 1:32 scale Wingnuts. I spent 6 months working in this project. Amazing kit!! Here are some pictures of the finished model. Cheers!
  4. 9 points
    Thanks for that I spent a little time decaling the topside of the Mig this avo, and as I mentioned earlier, all the decals are split into sections of the aircraft, which makes it so much easier than the almost random layout you get from some decal artists. You simply cut out the section you want to deal with, then cut the individual or group of decals you want to apply to whichever panel or section you're working on. The decals are very thin and conform nicely with minimum effort, and react well to Mr Mark Softer, settling into panel lines with just light pressure from a cotton bud. I did the stencils first, then added the stars on the upper wing, as I'm trying to keep it sensible to reduce the likelihood of accidentally removing decals whilst working on other areas. Which side shall I do next? Almost forgot - can you see the metallic leading edges of the stabs? They barely show up, but then so don't the real ones
  5. 8 points
    Done in Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics as usual- brush painted. I attempted to get a faded look from the humid south east asia air by blending together thinned paint in slightly different stages. Am pretty happy about the way it turned out aside from the gap on the underside, which I completely forgot about, and the fact that for the life of me I can't get rid of the gloss finish- will try spraying the rattle can humbrol matt varnish, as matt cote and XF-86 don't seem to be able to do it. Now on to the Vietnam GB!
  6. 6 points
    Hi all, Some of you may have followed the WiP I did for this little Spit way back in late September, I managed to complete it in October, however I have been so busy with uni I haven't had time to get back home to get my camera. I just got back from uni today and I used the remaining sunlight to capture a few pictures! This build was bought about because I decided that I had built all the significant marks of Spitfire, except the first. I picked up an Airfix 1/72 Mk.I and simply went about rescribing and reshaping, that's all their is too it really. My thanks to the late great Edgar for providing me with information on this build (and all my other Spitfire builds for that matter). This one's for you Edgar! Thanks for looking! Ben
  7. 6 points
    Hi folks, Having been a member of this forum a long, long time, it pained me to realise I'd never posted anything in RFI. Although my start rate is phenomenal, my completion rate is glacial, and this is the only one that's made it from the shelf of doom to the "It's got all of the fiddly bits attached" shelf in a loooong time. This was painted with Tamiya acrylics (thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinner, mixed with a couple of drops of X-22 clear gloss, and sprayed through a Badger Renegade Krome), kit transfers, Winsor & Newton Galeria matte varnish, and chalk pastel weathering. Panel lines were emphasised with a wash concocted from Liquitex Matte Medium, distilled water, flow improver and grey ink. The same mix with different coloured ink was used for leaky-type stains. Anyway - enough blather. Hope you like:
  8. 6 points
    Sometimes when you are confronted with a challenge during a model, you need to draw inspiration from the subject itself. My thoughts were turning towards a solution to the bare metal cowls, which are a unique and very eye catching feature of this particular aircraft. The kit does include decals which are reasonably nice, but in my heart, I knew they just wouldn't cut it and I wouldn't be satisfied with them. I wanted the cowls to be as real as possible and I thought of various ways in which I would be able to achieve them. The process by which the real aircraft has the texture applied to the cowling is `engine turning' so after some research, and a good deal of thought as to how I would accomplish it I set up to do some real engine turning. Each part takes a while to do but I thought that if Lindbergh could spend 33 hours flying across an ocean with no sleep then a few hours spent here would be no big deal. I recently purchased a Proxxon micro drill press with a compound table which is entirely suitable for the task in which I set it. By mounting some thin aluminium (the stuff that forms the membrane on a Milo tin) on a piece of MDF I was was able to clamp it to the bed of the compound table, giving me a very flat surface to work on. I chose a small length of brass rod at an appropriate diameter (3.2mm) and punched out disks of 240 grit wet and dry sandpaper which I then glued onto its end. Each full wind of the X and Y axis wheel gives me 1mm of movement in either direction and everything in between. I worked out that I would wind 2 mm in one direction for each circle, then overlap its adjacent line by moving the part 1.5mm across and then do another line. I took rough templates of each part from the kit decals which are not quite the same shape as the scribed lines, So i adjusted each template to suit and then transferred it to the work piece. Once I got the hang of it, the process is quite easy. I used the lowest RPM possible on the drill and used very light pressure to make each circle. Here is a panel in progress. I found that I achieved better results by leaving the Aluminium dust where it was rather than blow it away. Notice how precise each circle is. A panel with the engine turning completed. It was at this point that I thought F%^# YES! Dry fitted for final adjustment. I used a toothpick to push the vents in, then filed them from the back. I will cut them neater once I have glued each panel on. A comparison between the kit decals and the new metal panels.
  9. 5 points
    T-65UEM Upgrade Engine Modification X-wing, Revell Easykit Pocket, scale 1:112.....hand brush with hairy sticks painted.....bad photos again.....
  10. 5 points
    And then an overall coat of Humbrol 166 Dark Sea Grey. I'm not sure this was the precise colour originally used - but I made a note sometime ago of a post by Hawkkeeper where he said that matt dark sea grey is the colour they now use for paint touch-ups in the cockpit and no one notices the difference). I tried to angle the airbrush so as to leave some of the black primer showing through in the corners and darker recesses. I then lightened the mix a couple of times and tried to just catch the light attracting flat faces of the panels and tub to provide a bit of contrast. Difficult to do in this scale and the effect isn't really caught by the photo - but every little helps I'll help it along a bit later with some oil work and dry brushing. Better leave it to harden for a bit now - and then see what I can do about rubbing the grey off to reveal the black instrument surrounds - or if that doesn't work then to attempt picking out the instruments surrounds in black....
  11. 5 points
    And what happens to 2 Typhoons or any other super-maneuverable type in a 2 vs. 15 situation? The 2 lob a few missiles and then retreat as there's no way 2 fighters of any type will accept a fight in such condition. The advantage of the F-35 is that thanks to the sensors fusion the pilots will be more likely to know about the 15 enemies and will not get caught by surprise. Come on, that plans may have to be changed is fair enough, but let's be realistic... What if the enemy has some psychic energy weapon then? Oh no, we have to keep this into account, drop the F-35 and develop some new plan... Last but not least, for the next few years the numbers are not really in favor of many enemies, at least for the USAF. It's much more likely that 2 Su-27 may find 15 F-35 engaging them...
  12. 5 points
    Just hope it wasn't said by William Green and Gordon Swanborough - they simply couldn't release such a canard! Even if you managed to join together two outer (dihedralled) wing panels of Northrop A-17, their span is just 1120 cm (compared to 1138 cm for the P-36). Maximum wing chord is 287 cm for the A-17 outer wings and 275 cm for the P-36 centreline. Curtiss P-36 feature NACA 2210 wing section, while the A-17 uses NACA 2415 for the centre section, thinning down to 2409 at the tips. Northrop A-17 ailerons overlap the wingtip and their ribs are parallel to the fuselage centreline, while in the P-36 the wingtip overlaps the aileron, whose ribs are perpendicular to the wing trailing edge. On the A-17 outer wings joined together the aileron inner edges are 574 cm apart, while in the P-36 such distance is 638 cm. And between the ailerons and the fuselage the P-36 has plain split flaps, while the A-17 has perforated dive brakes. Moreover - IIRC - the P-36 has three wing spars, while the A-17 features five. Should I add anything more?
  13. 5 points
  14. 4 points
    I've just completed my 1:72 Heinkel He 111 from Revell, a second part for the diorama (the first part was this Stuka). It was very nice build without the major problems. In fact the set is so good that there were no problems at all. You can see the progress here Here are some pictures of the finished model. More when the diorama is finished.
  15. 4 points
    Hi guys, I'd like to present you my very first tank model(s) I've ever done. Airbrushed with Vallejo paints and weathered with pastel washes and dry pastels. Some dirt+PVA glue mud applied. As on my previous diorama I've done some photoshop work to blend it with the background. Models are untouched. Here they come, somewhere on the eastern front: Hope you like it
  16. 4 points
    This was a commision build that the buyer failed to pay. It is the second sunken submarine I have made, the first a few years ago. I decided to keep this one and sold the first. It is 1/125 scale. The plaque reads: U-BOAT POEM INTO THE DEPTHS WE VALIANTLY GO, DOWNWARDS INTO THE INKY GLOOM. TOUCHING BOTTOM WE COME TO REST, TO SLEEP FOREVER IN OUR IRON TOMB. Si:)
  17. 4 points
    American troops come across a knocked out Churchill and ponder. All 1/35 scale. Si:)
  18. 4 points
    The Royal Dutch Air Force, acquired 57 U.S.-built and six Fiat-built F-86K Sabres, 1955–1956; and assigned to three squadrons, No. 700, 701 and 702. Operated until 1964 with the F-86K. It was the first all weather fighter in the inventory of the Royal Dutch Air Force. The kit was from Special Hobby, in the end I'm glad it is finished. The best parts of the kit were the decals. The plastic surface was like sanding paper and had to be sanded to get a smooth surface. The wheel bays didn't fit, due to a problem with the manufacture. I didn't turn to the internet directly, but after stumbling for a couple of days. Special Hobby provided some resin parts. There were no pins in the kit glueing had to be done carefully. The small fins near the tail I left out these were so tiny made from PE parts, these got stuck every were but not on the model. The slats could only be fitted in down position. The Sidewinders came from Kinetic, the front fins from the ones from Special Hobby were only 2mm high. The decals were a relieve, the fit was very good. The red stipes on the model are decals, these were better than my Wingman on the Kfir. In the end the front part of the cockpit fitted like a glove, but the second part was to large and had to be sanded . The paint came from Vallejo Model Air 71064 Chrome, Black 74602 and 71017 Russian Green. For me the first and the last model from Special Hobby. Thanks for looking. Jan Remco
  19. 4 points
  20. 4 points
  21. 4 points
    Oops. Debs - don't got there - just don't go there - that way lies madness (mine anyway) Anyways - it stands to reason that the flight deck of a 4 engine monster like the herc has lot more knobs, switches, valves and general gizmo's lurking about the place to be pointed out than does a simple little hawk. Might go off and do that very bloke-like-thing of compiling a list Nope. Seems to stay sharp for a long time - and then I chuck it away and use a new one. I can't recommend it highly enough as a tool for scribing - especially for those tricky jobs using a tiny template or circles and tight curves. It'd be excellent for your AAR door as it's easy to use - with very gentle pressure to begin with - against any sort of template or against a layer or two of electrical tape or when it's not possible to secure a template very firmly to the kit surface. It leaves very slight ridges either side of the scribed line and of course it isn't a square cut - so you can finish off with perhaps a light micro mesh and an over-brush of Tamiya green cap to finish - or go over the scribed line with you favourite square-cut scriber. I use it as a bradawl to make indentations before drilling holes as well.
  22. 4 points
    Hi gents, I should be restored to health by February and able to re-start building kits; might I join you for a Tamiya F4U-1A please? Cheers, Stew
  23. 4 points
    This is the Tamiya 1/48th scale Douglas A-1H Skyraider in What If Fleet Air Arm markings. I added a Eduard Zoom set for the cockpit, Quickboost resin sets for Pylons, Gun Barrels, Boot Cockpit Enclosure and Antennas. An assortment of after market and kit decals all in 1/48th scale were used. The model is painted with Mr Hobby Paint in Extra Dark Sea Grey and Sky. This is the link for the WIP thread Thank you for looking, Joe.
  24. 4 points
    The flight deck... IS DONE! Leaving it to settle down and the transfers to dry completely, then I will seal it - eventually, of course, it will have a matt finish once again. Weathering will not be for a long time yet; still lots of experimentation to do, for a start. Ladies and gentlemen, it has only taken me 2 years, but we have a flight deck!
  25. 4 points
    1/72 Monogram B-52D, 55-0677, 25th Bomb Wing, Andersen AFB, Guam, Operation Linebacker ll, 1972. Build thread here Dave
  26. 3 points
    This is a dio showing the lovely Lara Croft in a swampy jungle setting, all dirty and sweaty, she is posed by a large T-Rex skull and needs to get to the crystal-but it is guarded... Si:)
  27. 3 points
    I came to this one rather late in the day, but thought I'd join in if that's okay with everyone I've had this kit for ages, so it's nice to have an excuse to build it at last. I'm going to build oob apart from using Siam Scale decals for aircraft 21105, Royal Thai Air Force with special 30th anniversary markings on the tail. Wish me luck! This is the one I'm building:
  28. 3 points
    Hello all, Here is my recently finished Monogram 1/72 B-52D in the markings of 55-0677 of the 25th Bomb Wing, based at Andersen AFB, Guam during the Linebacker II bombing campaign in 1972. Built for the Vietnam II group build, the build thread is here The windows have been painted gloss black as the fit is poor and some filler was required, resulting in dust getting in behind the transparencies. I'm also missing the walkways for the horizontal stabilisers, as these broke up on application. The bomb tally is fictional, but i couldn't have my BUFF without one! Built completely OOB, except for the inclusion of Warbird decals for the walkways. It's a big bugger with poor fit at times, but a great addition to the collection and one of my favourite aircraft. Would i build another? Yes. I've an AMT/Ertl H model to build then i'll probably add a B-52B in there (when I get the space!) Comments welcome, thanks for looking. Dave
  29. 3 points
    Built for a friend this was a challenging and enjoyable build. This particular aircraft is MJ627 '9G Q' from the Biggin Hill Heritage hanger. Built using the 1:48 Hasegawa Spitifire MkIX and the Brigade Models Resin T9 conversion set. To add a bit more detail I also used the Eduard PE upgrade set and resin MkIX cockpit. I used Vallejo Air paints and a myriad of aftermarket decals to replicate the correct aircraft. The resin conversion set was sublime and very little fettling or filler was needed. It went against the grain to use only the wings and undercarriage of the Hasegawa kit, but needs must. I am really pleased hop it turned out. Having discussed the final look of the model I decided not to go with a totally clean aircraft and wanted to add some weathering to it to add more depth and to represent the aircraft as it may have looked in 1945.
  30. 3 points
    Another test bed on rusting and effects, this time a 1/35 Sherman that was stranded and left to the sea, eventually it has become beached. Si:)
  31. 3 points
    Merry Christmas everybody. I've just finished up one of my Battle of Britain GB entries, just a hair past the deadline (OK, two months). Yes, it's another 1/72 Airfix Spitfire, which you may be sick of seeing, but no one should ever tire of building. It is one of the most enjoyable kits to build of any I've attempted. The plane represents a Spitfire I flown by Ralph 'Titch' Havercroft serving with 92 Sqn during the Battle of Britain. Most of the build thread is here, but there's a little more here. And because I always enjoy it when people put a bonus build at the end, here it is next to a 303 Sqn Mk II from the same kit.
  32. 3 points
    I finished this today, it's Hasegawa's 1/48 Hurricane MKllC. It'll be a gift to my Father in Law. He has a picture of his Dad sat on PZ865's wing just after the end of the war in his study and my plan is to get this model mounted on a plinth. I airbrushed it with Tamiya paint and used Flory models dark dirt wash which I found very easy to use. I should point out that this is the first model I've finished in twenty years!! There are lots of minor inaccuracies which I hope you'll overlook.... I've possibly overdone the weathering a bit but it was such good fun doing it! The decals for PZ865 were generously donated by Thunderjug so my thanks to him and apologies for taking so long to complete it! All Photos-220 by -ade634- All Photos-221 by -ade634- All Photos-222 by -ade634-
  33. 3 points
    This is a post of firsts - 1st completion of the year, 1st figure I've ever painted and more amazingly the 1st piece of armour that I can remember building ever. I'm sure that I must have done but it certainly wasn't in the last 45 years, so be kind to me. I persuaded my wife to come with me to watch Fury when it was in the cinema and it changed my modelling focus quite dramatically. I made the decision to pick up this kit and a Sherman Easy 8 and this one has crossed the line first. The kit is a pretty perfect introduction to armour modelling and goes together as easily as anything I've ever built, which has all been aircraft to date. I used Mig Ammo paint which didn't work too well until I picked up some Ultimate Modelling Products Airbrush Thinner to mix with it. After that it sprayed superbly and I'm a complete convert on both products. A concoction of washes, pigments, chipping fluid and lots of other alien substances were used to get a finish that I'm pretty happy with. You'll have to excuse the lack of historical authenticity in all things but I was looking for something that looked like the 'Bovington Tiger' in its film star guise. So, here it is - part 1 of the 'Fury' duo: - Next up is the Sherman and after who knows, I'm really enjoying doing something different. Thanks for looking and comments and critique welcomed. Pete
  34. 3 points
    Well, when I set the model on a mirror so that the black stripes can be seen, uh, everyone looks underneath! How about some progress photos? Getting ready to close up the canopies, I added the crash protector where the gunsight used to be. I followed the general idea shown in the photo Steve provided. As you can see, I've also added the front legs. Next, I found some styrene tubing to use for the drogue chute, sliced off a bit and formed it into what was a "D" shape. However, it seems to have gone back to be more of an oval. I guess styrene has some kind of elastic memory or something! I think it will still be OK. The canopies had a Future bath a few days ago. The control column was added to the front cockpit, followed by gluing on the front and rear greenhouses. I used a white PVA-type glue, which I also used on the FR.1. I then used the Montex masking set for the canopies and planned my method for painting the TT. I'll be using the method suggested by Martin with one exception - I'm going to use Alclad Grey primer as a base coat for the silver, and not black. Why? Because Alclad say so! You may recall that I plan on using their new RAF High Speed Silver product (yeah, I know this is an FAA aircraft) and Alclad specifically state on the label to use their grey primer. On-line, they state that the black primer was developed for the high shine and prismatic colours - in other words, for that highly polished natural metal look. But High Speed Silver is not natural metal - it was a lacquer paint. My guess is that Alclad recommend the grey primer to better replicate the actual High Speed Silver. We'll find out! The grey primer went on very nicely. In spite of Alclad's recommendation to spray the primer right out of the bottle, I always thin it with about 20% lacquer thinner. It gives a thinner coat that way, and is less likely to clog the tip of my ultra high-tech Paasche Model H. Hey, they look nice together! You can't see it so much in this photo, but I've also added some "chips" to the FR.1 with a silver pencil. Both props are assembled and painted flat black. Yellow blade tips will follow - four inches the right amount of yellow tip? I seem to remember reading that somewhere. Steve, speaking of prop blades, your TT has silver blades. Special Hobby say to paint them black. Another conundrum! Next, I'll Micro-Mesh the grey primer on the TT to make it nice and smooth, followed by painting the underside yellow. The plan is to then mask off the areas that will remain yellow (including the fuselage band) and touch up, with the grey primer, any yellow overspray in the areas that will be silver. A final Micro-Mesh to the touched up areas, and then I'll shoot the High Speed Silver. I hope to get all of that done this weekend. Once I know the actual width of the black stripes I can mask and paint those areas (including the wheel well if I have to!). In-between doing all of this stuff, I still need to add the landing and navigation lights to the wings. Pass me my fork! Cheers, Bill
  35. 3 points
    A cruise liner sank in the middle of the ocean. Among the casualties were 250 lawyers attending a convention on board. What do you call the incident? A good start ...
  36. 3 points
  37. 3 points
    I may change my scheme to a "what if" - as in what if they didn't bother painting the stripe in the wheel well. Cheers, Bill PS. A former RAN machine you say - I wonder if their target tug scheme was different than the FAA? Probably not, but a question worth asking. PPS. Navy Bird's Axiom: Always make at least one mistake on each model because only God is perfect.
  38. 3 points
    Cheers Mike. Hoffman device added to the fume extractor, all this is a main gun simulator. Cheers Dan
  39. 3 points
    I do not want to wreck this thread, BUT to be honest Homebee this phrase / comment above is very rich coming from you. I am sure many of us enjoy your new stance of the rumourmonger BUT sometimes recently it would seem as if you almost own this site and or feel that if you do not have a word in or miss something that you are being out done. Also your attitude to what gets released is getting more and more biased to you wants and needs, if you are going to be the 'rumourmonger' then be that, do not announce a new kit and then say why or why not company X are doing it, or that it is the wrong scale. In this case as Martin is part of AMK he should be entitled to point out developments, wether they have been noted or not before, or IF you have seen it else where then great, NOT all of us can spend the amount of time that you seem to do scouring the entire internet/ facebook pages. Ali
  40. 3 points
    H2S Dome on clear parts so i guess we are getting a 100 Group Fortress III option at some point
  41. 3 points
    I'm not hopeful I'll get it to work for me here Bill. I suspect I should have left the primer longer before the top coat - to let it really harden - and I so I'm doubtful I'll be able to reveal it this way. I didn't have the patience once I got to the priming stage I think what I'll probably do is protect the grey with an acrylic clear coat and then try and pick up the instrument surrounds in black enamel using a dry brush technique. That way if I gets it wrong I should be able to take it off with a Tamiya cotton bud moistened with enamel thinner and try again. Mrs F and I are off to a Christmas Ball tonight so the paint will have a chance to harden well before I do anything more. I skived off real work somewhat today to get this done so I'll have to make that up a bit over the weekend There are bits of contrast in the full size Hawk tub - the map cases and the weapons pin bag are black for example as are the side panels abeam the rudder pedals (which i think for real may be canvas covers to hide/protect plumbing bits and pieces various) - that'll help break it up too. The other things is that the two ejection seats take up most of the space between the instrument panels and the bulkheads - and they'll add interests as well......hopefully.
  42. 3 points
  43. 3 points
    Puts aside some time this morning to prime the first tub. At the last minute I added the weapons pin storage bag, made out of plastic card and some more lead foil, to the rear bulkhead. Was going to add it after painting - but changed my mind. A couple more bits of 0.2mm lead wire plumbing slipped in as well. And then primed with Alclad II black primer/microfiller. Gonna try the tip about using paper to rub off the dark sea grey top coat to reveal the raised black instrument housings below....
  44. 3 points
    hi solowing 666, I understand your reaction but the truth is that i speak Dutch most of my time and use mm's too. this will make your life a bit easier: found this doc on the net, page 2.32 shows you many line dimensions of the carrier deck: http://navybmr.com/study%20material/14353a/14353A_ch2.pdf then there is this picture with some useful layout of the tie downs wrt the lines: then another picture with dimensions of other features: and then some very useful photo's on carrierbuilders.net, in the walk around section on Harry S. Truman: http://www.carrierbuilders.net/articles/20060216_CVN-75_WA_Pt_2/120.jpg: this should get you going!
  45. 3 points
    While adding details the build looked still very plain in the monotone blue gray, so i applied a dark washing and some dry brushing. Most of her deck houses are only dry fitted. Thank you for watching Bernd
  46. 3 points
    That was the start of adding more details, it took many hours to detail and clean the army of ammunition lockers crowding her boat deck and it became quite tedious, now its done.
  47. 3 points
  48. 2 points
    I just reviewed my entry's and I have the p-47, hurricane and corsair GB's followed by JU88 and FW 190 GB's. I have also entered the eastern front and MTO GB's.....😳 I think the MTO GB will be my focus the others will need to be single build otherwise I won't build anything else i want to!! Rob
  49. 2 points
    Thanks Rob! We'll see about the neatly whenever I get back to checking and fixing seams... Thanks for the tip! I'll try to look it up. How about another update with lots of pictures where nothing much has happened? I've been occupied with control surfaces lately, because otherwise the wing looks quite bare. For starters, I discoverd that one of the flap hinges was broken off. Merde as they say in Poland! It might be fixable somehow? Anyway, a quick dryfit of the flaps was interesting. As always, lots of scraping and sanding was needed to get them to fit properly... Dropped flaps might look nice, but the work required to get them to look interesting enough is daunting (and probably needs some Eduard etch). Also, since time immortal RAF pilots seems to be obsessed with raising the flaps after landing, so naturally mine will be raised too. To have the flaps fit in the up position, the outer flap needs to be trimmed quite a lot, but some swift sanding solved it. Turned out ok. One can barely see a wavy line on the inner part of the flap and I was getting worried that it was a sinkmark. I reached for the filler, but then I thought, why not just oaint it once, to see how bad it is? A wise idea! It turns out that the wavy line is just some molding line where the molten plastic comes in from two different directions and meets in the part and then hardens. Something that Airfix subcontractor is quite bad at predicting especially for clear parts... The flap hinge was repaired with a piece of plastic strip Should hopefully look good under a coat of paint or 14. And so, all control surfaces bar the rudder is installed. That's it for now! I really need to tackle the seams next. //Christer
  50. 2 points
    Some more work. I decided to make a small amendment to the kit instrument panel and used Airscale decals, which I reckon have made a big improvement on what is supplied with the kit. I had to work hard to get it looking close to my reference though as there is instruments from quite a few of the Airscale sheets here; 1/48th scale, Soviet dials, Jet dials, upside down dials.... anyway, I reckon I got it pretty close. Here is the finished panel. I thought for a while about whether to depict the white marks that Charles used to count off how many hours he used in each tank in the top right hand corner of the panel. I guess it brings a human element to the project regardless of how hard they will be to see. It gives the aircraft a lived in/Historical feel. Apart from the Airscale decals, everything else is `from the box'. I also had to scratchbuild the magneto switch as the kit one pinged off into the distance, courtesy of some fine tipped tweezers. I used some scrap white metal from the kit to carve a new one. Here is the painted fuel management system. I painted the small silver shape on the rectangular part for reasons which will become clear soon. The built up instrument panel and fuel tank/system. The silver paint was to depict the mirror in the periscope. The cockpit side walls have been sprayed Tamiya rattle can bare metal silver, with the kit cockpit frame laid over the top. There is not much detail here, but with some careful painting some can be added. I am struggling to find references which confirm how the side walls were painted, so if you have some please feel free to add!
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