galgos

That’s a great pity, a matt surface isn’t ideal for applying a dirt wash. Sadly there’s no easy solution that I can think of. Max

This photo from "On Silver Wings" shows the anodised panels in question very well.

You’re very welcome Chris!

So here's the cockpit parts cleaned up, plus the brass AIMS bits that I'll be using. I don't think the Gladiator IP is 100% accurate but it's good enough for me! The AIMS seat is a thing of beauty: The engine is progressing but it's a bit like rubbing your tummy and patting your head at the same time, I'm not sure about the order in which to do things, so cogitation is the name of the game at the moment. I have a cunning plan for the exhaust pipes coming from the cylinder fronts but need to do a trial or two first....talking of which I've been doing quite a bit of research and have found a very knowledgeable and helpful gentleman over on iModeler, Christopher Amano-Langtree. He knows a great deal about Gauntlets and has responded quickly to all my questions, including the interface between the exhausts and the collector ring, picture: This is a Swordfish but the principle is the same, so the "bumps" are the pipes themselves! The other thorny question was the matt panels on the fuselage shown very clearly in this photo: Christopher's explanation: The panels were aluminium and were anodized as an anti-corrosion measure. An anodized aluminium panel will appear matt in finish. The Gauntlet was a transition between polishing and painting. The early Gauntlet Mk.1s (the K40-- series and only with No. 19 Squadron) started out with highly polished panels like the Furys and others before them. The Mk.2s, however, came into service as the polishing policy was actively discouraged and used unpolished anodized panels. The Gladiators were painted overall aluminium as paint formulas had improved to the extent that anodizing wasn't needed. So there we are....sorted!!

Good questions Matt! I noticed that larger bump too (is there one the other side?) but have no answers. I’ve cut off the existing 18 pipes but I now need to gauge the space between the front of the cylinders and the inside of the collector ring before deciding which route I’m going down.

First minor problem, there had to be one didn't there! The 2 exhaust pipes running from the front of each cylinder don't quite meet with the inside face of the collector ring, and it's very noticeable so something is going to have to be done about it: Looking at this excellent picture from Sandy Crawford's book, it's clear that there is a faired bump where each pipe mates with the collector ring, though the profile of the SW ring doesn't really enable me to try to replicate this, so I may need to re-shape this, or do I simply cut off the pipes and replace with more precise ones? Max the Mystified

Good photograph of the Bristol Mercury engine:

Thanks Sandy! I bought your book initially because I was planning to convert the ICM Gladiator to a Gauntlet, and there is so much essential info in your book so it was a good investment. Then Simon and his team came along with their Gauntlet which made life much easier for me, but the book is still a "must have" and is going to prove a regular source of information and detail. I rather fancy doing a spatted version but probably not with this one!

AJ.....the quality is always good from Silver Wings in terms of resin moulding and finish, but always rather lacking in instructions so it helps to have good refs and imagination! Please join in if you're able, the more the merrier....and I'm using CA throughout.

So this is the Silver Wings Gloster Gauntlet.....1/32 scale.......with some AIMS additions which were designed for the Gladiator I but which apply equally well to its predecessor the Gauntlet. First some eye-candy: I'm intrigued by the dull matt patches below the cockpit on the fuselage sides, anybody any thoughts about this please? And my references to date: both really excellent books, well worth every penny! And to the kit, which of course is almost entirely resin: The Silver Wings prop is really rather awful I'm afraid, but I'd always planned for a two-blade Gauntlet, so much more characterful! Celine didn't pack my kit quite carefully enough!! Simon at Silver Wings has been contacted asking for the missing bits. The Silver Wings pe above, the AIMS Gladiator/Gauntlet pe below: Silver Wings instruction booklets are, shall we say, rather enigmatic! ....especially in some areas: So I've made a start on the Mercury engine.....love a decent engine! More soon I hope, if this heat wave continues....... Max

Mark, a couple of shots that will help you understand the structure of the support arms of the undercarriage, and you're quite right, it is easy to chop too much off, I nearly did with my first Anson build!! That's fabric covering over a metal arm, simple really and nicely streamlined. And I'd advise you not to worry overly about that pesky "diamond" upper framework, it really doesn't show once all's painted up. I think I made a token copy out of stretched sprue for bracing purposes only. Max

Yes Mark (some fine modelling there by the way!), as with most aspects of the CA/SH kits, it's all a bit vague in places, but this is where my IP went: Hope this helps give an approximate position for you! Max

Agreed with Dennis, Airscale all the way. Max

Quality well-researched and detailed work Craig, really marvellous! Your scenario is prior to take off, so no reason why that map couldn’t be on the nav’s table. After the op. the maps had no value, they had served their purpose and were usually torn up though I’ve seen one genuine Chastise map that was saved. Max

Stick at it Mark, you’re doing a good job. However, I’m definitely looking forward to this!

I like it a lot, but there’s something wrong to my eyes with that starboard inner exhaust, the underwing one. It looks far too low, but I could easily be mistaken!! Should the one that you have on the port inner be the underwing one? Max

I’ve always thought Montex masks were a waste of money especially in your scale, they’re too thick and don’t conform easily to tight or complex curves.

Yep, that's the one Chris!

Some "progress"....I think that's what you'd call it I've taken out the plastic wingtip inserts which had developed splits and replaced them with resin ones then filled in the other cracks in the fuselage. I wasn't happy either with the roll bar: a) it was off centre when viewed from the front and b) it's over scale, so a new improved version will be built. I'm going to redo most of the camouflage....never been satisfied with it so this "makeover" is a good opportunity to tart it all up a bit. Two lovely colour pics of RATG (Rhodesian Air Training Group) Harvard I's. If you're at all interested in aircrew training in WW2 or the RATG, take a look at my website (under development) here

No worries Chris, it was in a GB but as so often the build fell by the wayside!

I wouldn't trust drawings Mark, I always go by looks from reference photos. Just look how different those bulges are in the drawing's position to accommodate the engine cylinders, much further forward than the kit’s. But which is right.....and how much does it matter!? But here's a fine looking build in 1/48 scale which is spoiled by those cowls not being opened up enough: I think yours looks ok though so I'd be happy with it!

For what it's worth, my 1/48 build from 7 years ago: and a couple of clearer pictures:

July 2022! See new intro!! I'll be working on this delightful Harvard as time permits, but in the meantime some cracking pictures from Rhodesia and a matching map section:

That's looking better Mark, back-tracking will pay dividends downstream! I agree entirely about the ridiculous casting block on the front of the cowling, but it's also worth checking reference pictures closely to see just how much you should open up the front of the cowling.....I believe it's more than it seems.

The ICM Gladiator is pretty easy to rig, as biplanes go: I always use Prym elastic, supplied as white but can be coloured to whatever you wish. Max