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Showing most liked content on 07/11/15 in all areas

  1. 20 points
    489 (NZ) Sqn RAF Tor-Beau. Approx Mid 1944. FIrst off, A big thanks to Terry at Aviaeology Publishing for all his help. He went out of his way to provide me with heaps of photos and advice during the build. I was going for the well weathered/ beaten up look and I’m happy with how it looks. Details: Kit Tamiya TF X Ultracast seats and Exhausts Aires Wheels Decals: Model Alliance (codes, serials, Fuselage Roundels) Aviaelogy for stencils Some scratch built Antennas from Plastic rod, wire and broom bristles Paint: Main colour Tamiya AS10 and Mr Color (sky). Various other Mr Color Lacquers. Tamiya NATO Black and Flat white. Roundels were WEM Roundel red and blue Clear Coats: Mr Color Gloss and Dullcoate Weathering: Oils, thinned paint through the airbrush and some pigments More images at my facebook page Build is here
  2. 18 points
    My new P-51D "Mustang", Airfix 1:72,it´s done: Flown by 1 Lt. Spurgeon Ellington "Tuskegee Airmen" 100th Fighter Squadron, Italy,December 1944..I hope you like it... Regards Klaus
  3. 14 points
    Built for the `what if GB`. TSR.2 GR.1(?) 40 Squadron RAF Circa 1974
  4. 14 points
    Here i present my last job, this Japanese Dive Bomber of WWII. This project started as a "express job", without extras and i had the real intention to finish as soon as possible to continue with my other current job (Spitfire Vb Halcon Maltes). As you can imagine, everything turn wrong and i spent more time than i thought. Finally i managed to finish it. I hope you like it. A few general views: Some subjective views: Details of the tail's view: Thanks for all your comments!
  5. 13 points
    Hope you like dayglo. Thanks for looking. Mark
  6. 12 points
    Hi Guys, I'm new at this and I've only just realised that completed group builds can also be posted in RfI For future reference, can anyone tell me how to add a link to the original build thread - Bill Gates, I am not!! Cheers for now, Craig
  7. 11 points
    Here is my attempt of Testor's 1/48 Cessna O-2A Skymaster. I loved this build from start to finish. Here are a few photo's of the finished article and also here is the link to the full build. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234985641-148-testors-cessna-o-2a-skymaster/page-1
  8. 11 points
    Hi everyone, Thought I`d show some photo`s of my just completed Eduard, Weekend Edition 1/48 Spitfire Mk IX Completed to represent a French Airforce Mk IX of: GC 1/4 `Dauphine`, Nha Trang, Indochina, 1947 Not quite OOB this time as after some research it became apparent that most French Spitfires in the theatre..... had `E` wings fitted and not `C`s as the decal instructions suggested. So had to modify the wings to suit which was a pain as I`d already 3/4 built the kit. The decals were from Berna Decals Sheet, BD 48-18 Otherwise just added seat belts and had to remove the aerial wires I fitted as I noticed at last minute they didn`t appear to have them. Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking Cheers Russ
  9. 11 points
    Remember making this fit in the 70s.
  10. 10 points
    Been a while since I have posted anything but have kept busy with a move to a different country, new job, new home. Have found a good hobby shop not far away and this was one of the ones I brought. A very old monogram A10 with raised panel lines. Aftermarket cockpit, instrument panels and seat. Was not an easy build. Nothing fitted. Decals were either not releasing from backing or fragile. But I think with the limited resources it came out ok
  11. 9 points
    First post lads. Please let me know what you think good and bad.... Unfortunately I can't seem to load up more than 3 photo's at a time, for some reason I'm having trouble with damn Photobucket.....
  12. 9 points
    From Facebook, for anyone not there this weekend I will get some high res photos for everyone later on
  13. 8 points
    хостинг изображений gif The set has a photoetching, parts of resin and masks. Enjoy watching!
  14. 8 points
    A 75mm gun armed B-25H, 14th Air Commando Group, 10th Airforce, India and Burma 1944. This was my first Matchbox kit since taking the hobby back up about 6 or 7 years ago. I built two or three of these when I was a nipper so a bit of a favorite kit for me. This one was built about three years ago and was the build that got me collecting Matchbox. A straight forward and easy kit to build, the only tricky bit being the white fuselage bands.
  15. 8 points
  16. 8 points
    Blimey ! The avalanche of new stuff for next year continues and all hail Airfix being on the frontfoot ! You know 'some' people will argue it doesnt look right from some angle on their computer screen and do their very best to prove they know more than most modellers by bringing it down without seeing it in the flesh as it were (like they did with the recent Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS 1 derision that polluted the model press ) one can't help but feel sorry for them, well maybe not but its best to ignore them Me....i cant help believe this is a new golden age of plastic modelling , i am 63 and have been modellling since i was 8yo and cannot remember things being this good !
  17. 7 points
  18. 7 points
    Must I? Well, in fairness, Lt Commander Edward "Butch" O'Hare provides not only the name for our international airport, but is also a legitimate war hero as well. But don't get me started on the difference between US and UK airshows. Have I covered that before? Americans have never shrunk from throwing money at a problem regardless of whether or not that will resolve it. That aside, however: 1. I have in the past used Tamiya XF-16 for High Speed Silver, and it looks weird and grainy and terrible in this scale to me. 2. Alclad, though it has many faults, doesn't look grainy. 3. Thanks to the miracle of dullcoat, that excessive metal sheen can be taken care of. 4. The price differential between Alclad and sone other paint isn't appreciable for me. And this is the same name as the colour I'm painting! 5. These HSS Canberras have a nice single-tone metallic sheen to them. I agree if I were Alcladding it with panel variation, that would be very wrong. Hmmm, hard to tell. When I've gotten more painting done I'll put it next to an XF-16 Meteor and an Alclad Aluminium F-51. !!! Replacement, or additional? Charming, a good conversationalist, etc. Also, a new Victor! I tipped the scales of causality by purchasing the Flightpath B.1 set recently. You're all very welcome.
  19. 7 points
    I hope that the naysayers who jumped in with both big feet to pour scorn on a perfectly reasonable and mildly expressed speculation, especially the one who wasn't even interested in a Victor anyway, learn something from this. But I somehow doubt it. Nick
  20. 7 points
    Let's have an update, shall we? First, I'm glad to see all of the Crims fans here. This is the band that defined progressive rock for me, and I've been buying their music since 1969. I've seen them three times - the first was 1974, so the show was made up mostly of selections from Lark's Tongues in Aspic and Starless and Bible Black. The second time was in 1982, around the time of Beat. Tony Levin is a local celebrity in my hometown, having studied at the Eastman School of Music and playing cello for a while in the Rochester Philharmonic Orchestra. The last time I saw Crims was in 1996, the lineup being the famous "double trio." Opening act was the California Guitar Trio - OMG. I also saw Fripp in 1980 masquerading as a punk rocker in the short-lived League of Gentlemen. A man of many talents, Mr. Fripp. I'm quite anxious to see the new lineup, especially since it include Mel Collins, whose contributions to the early Crims are immense. OK, enough of that! (Fun, though, wasn't it?). Getting ready to paint the FR.1, I cut out the gunsight from the film provided and mounted it on top of the resin structure that represents the body of the sight. I painted the edge of the film black, hoping that it might actually be visible from outside the canopy. The front and rear canopies were masked with the Montex set, and attached to the model with white glue. There were a couple of places where I needed to blend the clear canopy into the fuselage, so I used my usual wall-board spackle, which I smoothed out with a wet paintbrush. It was then that I fully appreciated the photos in my Firefly reference books. Most likely, the gunsight glass was round, not square. Oops, too late now. I sprayed Gunze H74 Sky on the undersides, even though I know it is a bit on the yellow side. Since Gunze Sky is what I started using so many years ago, I will continue with this error moving forward! Now, believe it or not I've not yet made a model in Temperate Sea Scheme, and Gunze doesn't make Dark Slate Grey. This seems to be a difficult colour for many people to get right - sometimes too dark, too light, too grey, or too green. The two brands of Dark Slate Grey that I have (Testor's and Colourcoats) are very different from each other. What to do? Disclaimer: I have a degree in optics, and have a rudimentary grasp of colour science. The following analysis is probably bogus, but I chose to do it this way since I do not have access to any proper colour measurement tools. You have been warned! Nick Millman's excellent blog "US Aircraft For The RAF" has several posts that discuss Dark Slate Grey. Included in these posts are JPG renderings of the colour. I don't know how these renderings were made, but knowing Nick's expertise in this area, I suspect they are as accurate of a representation that can be made in the RGB space. Sampling Nick's JPG chip for Dark Slate Grey we get: R - 92 G - 91 B - 82 What I see in these numbers is that the colour is somewhat dark, and that it has a bit more red and green which gives it an olive (green-yellow) cast. Testor's Dark Slate Grey is much too light, and to my eye is grey-green, with little olive. Colourcoats, on the other hand, has a distinct olive flavor, is darker than Testor's, and looks like it will work. So let's paint the beastie already! To begin with, this photo is somewhat lighter than the actual model. I should probably adjust the exposure, but I let the camera's "auto" features do that. I have the f/# fixed at the smallest aperture available (f/8) and the white balance fixed fixed on Daylight, since my photo lamps are daylight rated. Nonetheless, the photo is a reasonable depiction of the actual model. On my monitor, anyway - YMMV! Sampling this photo, you can, of course, get RGB values that are all over the map due to highlights and shadows. So is it possible to make any kind of statement about the colour, considering my crude tools? Probably not, but that never stopped me in the past! As I sample across the fuselage in the photo, I get R and G values that are very close to one another, but with the G value typically ever so slightly higher, and the B value typically 15-20 "units" below the others. One area on the side of the spine, in-between the front and rear canopies, measures R - 93, G - 98, and B - 78. What I think these numbers tell me is that the photo (notice that I didn't say the paint), has a bit more olive cast to it than Nick's chip, and is lighter. There are numerous factors which can affect how the colour appears in this photo, however. Any opinions from you chaps? How does this colour look to you? I like it myself, but don't let that sway you. Extra Dark Sea Grey is next! Cheers, Bill PS. Hopefully Nick will stop by and show me why my little analysis is just plain silly! And that would be a good thing - "because figuring things out is always better than making stuff up."
  21. 6 points
    AIRFIX new announcement! http://www.airfix.com/uk-en/news/workbench/exclusive-new-2016-announcement-airfix-at-ipms-telford/
  22. 6 points
    Hello Newest Airfix Spitfire 1/48 (A05125) Additions: Quickoboost - gun barrels, exhaust, wheels. Paint by Montex mask ang Gunze paint. Enjoy !!
  23. 6 points
    You think that's bad? The wings on the Martlet don't even point in the right direction!
  24. 6 points
    So near and yet so far I tried damn hard to get this beast done so close but if I go at it any more it's gonna end in tears so im sorry to say she won't make it to Telford ! Well I will try for Sunday but im not promising Thanks for the support it was fun trying working in the shed
  25. 5 points
    New here. This is a TR6 I built as a surprise gift for a friend. Body and wheels cut from a block of RenShape. Everything else handmade. Hope you like it
  26. 5 points
    Hobbyboss kit with resin Aires ejection seats, main wheel bay and weapons from Eduard Brassin series ( AIM-9, GBU-10 and Mk.82 bombs on MER's ). I used Xtradecal sheet for the markings.
  27. 5 points
    Hi all, sorry it's quite a long one !....As some of you may know we happy chappies of the Bomber Command sig are commemorating one of the RAF's most iconic aircraft in the form of the magnificent Short Stirling heavy bomber at this years SMW show. The plan is to get as many built for display as possible in the time and we will be displaying them alongside sections of John Lathwell's (12jaguar) fantastic forward fuselage restoration project at the show. Please pop along to the table for a chin wag about just about anything, we have Rob on guitar, Neil on drums, a couple of guys on bass, (pint thereof) and me on valium ! Also talk to John and the lads about the wonderful Stirling Aircraft Projects plans for the future. My contribution is Stirling B.Mk1 R9368 BU-A of 214 squadron flown from RAF Chedburgh 1943. Her final moments are recorded below...... ''9th March 1943 After a couple of aircraft had left with no problems, a new pilot on a night nav exercise swung on take off, collapsed the undercarriage of his Stirling and blocked the main runway. It was decided to use the shorter runway and the crew prepared to leave, not happy as they had had their own U/C problems whilst on air test. The fully laden Stirling lumbered into the air but with the U/C only partially retracted, clipped some trees, took the roof off a newly built house and finally ploughed in near Chevington about a mile away. Miraculously the bomb load did not explode and the crew scrambled out of the burning aircraft. A head count revealed one missing, air gunner John Flack and, without hesitation the crew went back into the aircraft to find him trapped and upside down in his straps. They got him out suffering severe burns in the process later to be awarded the GM for their gallantry''....such were the calibre of the men who flew these great aircraft ! I decided to use Italeri's new 'monster', and I don't mean that flatteringly. This model is a bit of a curates egg in that whilst it has nicely moulded parts several details are missing, this tends to happen when you attempt to make multiple types from a mould and the build sequence is not the easiest I've come across, particularly for a new kit that costs around 40 quid ! The panel trenches and golf ball sized rivets have been mentioned many times so I won't go over that but there are problems with the fuselage cross section and wing dihedral in that the shoulder that runs the length of the fuselage top is too square and needs sanding back to give a gentler shape, this is quite subtle but alters the look dramatically and the wings are basically just too level and need canting up a few degrees at the root. The ailerons don't have the marked outward curve at the outer tips that they should, (good grief even Airfix got that right !) so I shaved some off and added resin to make good. Other problems include having to cut out the window reveals yourself, (the windows are oversize but I'll live with that), having the undercarriage assembled and fitted before gluing the wings together, engine front cowls that are all but impossible to fit after the nacelles are fitted to the fuselage, over flattened tyres and bits missing such as infills for the under engine nacelles where the later marks oil cooler assembly fitted. Having said all that the detail is very good, the engines are nicely done and you do get a lot of plastic for your money......just not necessarily what you might expect. Anyway before your eyes glaze over here's a list of the things I did to mine, Sanded down all surfaces to lessen the effect of the trenches and removed a lot of rivets, (left some to add interest) Re-profiled the fuselage topside section Fettled the outer tips of the ailerons to produce pronounced curve Increased the dihedral of the wings by 2 degrees Lowered the height of the canopy by 2mm Thinned all trailing edges Sanded heavy aileron and elevator rib detail back Added Resin-Art main and tail wheels Added lead wiring as hydraulic brake lines on main gear legs Scratch-built the spar framing of the upper sides of the undercarriage bays to address the 'huge black hole' effect Scratch-built cockpit interior, (things are in the wrong place and sections missing, but in fairness I did use the kit seats) Added more detail to each turret as they were a bit bare Added Little-Cars landing lamps Added missing framing to bombardiers glazing Added missing doors to oil cooler slots on the top of the wing, (between engines) Scrap resin inserts to fill gaps under the engine nacelles where the later marks oil coolers would sit Resin propellors Re position the tall aerial mast behind the canopy as Italeri have it too far forward, (same goes for the 'towel rail' aerial under the rear fuselage) Replaced Italeri's 'canons' with Quickboost resin guns barrels Added PE splitters to oil cooler intakes Squared off the FOD guards to fit the Mk1's carburettor housings Replaced the two oversized blade aerials under the nose Decals from the Xtradecals Bomber Command set Painted using Mr Hobby acrylics, Tamiya NATO black, AK Interactive washes and filters and MIG pastel powders.....aerial line, Uschi 'standard size' elastic thread, (best stuff for the job by miles). I can't say I enjoyed building this one particularly but anyway I got there in the end which is the main thing............a labour of love this was as the Stirling is my favourite of the 'big three', (mind you I'm a bit biased as my late uncle was a flight engineer on them), but come on Airfix...you know you want to ! My thanks to John (12jaguar) for his help with the interior stuff...cheers mate ! Cheers all, , hopefully see many of you on Saturday...... Melchie...(the moocher) Obligatory 1943 'Somewhere in England' shot... And some of the smaller detail stuff Added the curved ends to the ailerons that were missing for some reason....
  28. 5 points
    The Kit: The model is by Revell and is of the starship USS Voyager; I think the scale is 1/677. I did it as an out-of-the-box build with no extras and no fancy lighting as I don't have a clue about wiring. The nacelles can be positioned in the level position or upright to portray the ship being at warp. A Starfleet emblem display stand and a small shuttlecraft are included, however I have left out the latter. Thanks for looking in, Ross.
  29. 5 points
    . Another model i did since returning to the fold in 2011.
  30. 5 points
    Hi Bill! The approach I usually take is to measure the original paint chip or sample with a spectrophotometer. The resultant L*a*b* value for the colour is then converted into RGB with several triangulating checks along the way. It would be nice to somehow provide people with actual painted paint chips but the nature of internet communications means that accurate RGB chips can convey the most to more, are better than nothing and certainly better than a photo of a chip. But they can only be a best endeavour guide to the original paint colour standard as intended. Triangulation with other data is recommended and I try to provide it in terms of quantified difference comparisons with FS, RAL, Munsell and Methuen as well as, where appropriate, the relevant Hex #. Taking the MAP swatch for Dark Slate Grey the RGB should calculate as 92 91 80 so your sampling is pretty accurate. The difference is in the Green value but the two RGB sequences have a difference of only 1.00 where < 2.0 = a close match so nothing to worry about given that wartime applied paints can typically vary up to about 5.00. There are no close FS or RAL values to Dark Slate Grey. FS 34086 is too dark @ 2.68, FS 34096 is too green @ 3.92 and RAL 7010 is too grey @ 3.40! It is, unfortunately one of those tricky beasts that is hard to pin down in descriptive colour terms. It is a Munsell GY - Green Yellow - and gives the impression of a slightly grey-greenish olive drab. Most model paints seem to be closer to representing Light Slate Grey which is distinctly more greenish in appearance. Whether that is an attempt to introduce 'scale' I have no idea. Don't forget also that the paint applied to the model will probably alter in appearance once the EDSG is applied due to the visual juxtaposition of two contrasting colours (EDSG is a Munsell PB - Purple Blue). The contrast between the reflectivity of each paint colour is only 2% with EDSG starting out darker at 10%. Regards Nick
  31. 5 points
    I've been concerned right from the beginning of this build that the upper wing roundel decals will not cope with being laid over the vortex generators. So I decided to do an experiment whilst I only had a primer to spoil, and see how well Parafilm masks would conform over the spiky wee devils. As it happens it worked quite well. I need to fix a couple of issues - a new blade for my circle cutter, and the Parafilm was prone to lifting up from the airbrush's draft. I think the lifting problem will be fixed by it sticking better to a high-gloss finish and lowering my air pressure. Happy that I can tackle the upper wing roundels when the time comes I moved on to initial masking. I masked the walkway borders, nose-cone and air-intakes. Tamiya's new white plastic masking tape for curves proved quite handy and pliable for masking the lips of the air-intakes. [EDIT] First coat of Xtracolour enamel was touch dry in 6 hours, so here's a couple of shots:
  32. 5 points
    Hi folk,s just a bit more done,Without swearing once I struggled and won over the U/c stage so leaving to thoroughly dry for a day or two.I have gone for the four prop option I may have got it wrong but the very few photo's of late war aircraft seem to be mainly in this configuration,so popped her all together for an update photo.thank's for looking in.
  33. 4 points
  34. 4 points
    Cheers, John! I didn't say I wanted to, I was just asking how it compared to their other shades. Technically, "High Speed Silver" was not a paint by itself, but a term used to describe a high gloss paint finishing process (called DTD-772) when the base colour was silver. DTD-772 could be applied to almost any colour in the RAF/FAA inventory. There is a great entry on this over at Nick Millman's American Aircraft for the RAF blog. I use Alclad for a lot of things that aren't NMF per se, for the same reasons that PC has described above. I simply hate grainy silver, especially in 1:72. I have been using Floquil Old Silver, but alas the bean counters at Testors (or whoever owns them) have axed the complete Floquil, Pactra, and Polly Scale product lines. An additional one - I hadn't thought of that! She'd look like one of the old Hudson Hornets... Actually, she suffered a completely detached retina last year and has had several surgeries to correct that. This almost always causes cataracts to form, so this week she had that removed and a new lens put in. Early next year, she needs to go under the laser and have the scar tissue removed and the incisions "smoothed." At the end of the day, hopefully she'll regain full use of her sight in that eye (it's her right eye). Right now, all she sees is indistinct, blurry shapes - not unlike watching an old "B" horror movie late at night on a B&W set with a picture tube that won't focus. Cheers, Bill PS. I just had a look and I've got the Revell/Matchbox kit and the Flightpath B.1 set in my stash as well. You know what? I'm going to build it anyway - just for spite.
  35. 4 points
  36. 4 points
    Built one already!!! Why can't I have one THIS November?
  37. 4 points
  38. 4 points
    Cheers mate it does indeed kill them The three main hold ups with this where 1. Drilling windows 2. Engines that simply do not fit at all 3. Tamiya Black paint taking way to long to dry ! Here she it this morning I think I might bring her unfinished if I can
  39. 4 points
    Well, you know that resolution you make at the start of each year to cut down on stash spending... Nope, me neither....
  40. 4 points
    And here I am thinking about finally starting my Matchbox Victor; a kit that's been sitting in my stash since 1984 - Meh!! So Tony O was correct after all, well played Sir.. Cheers.. Dave.
  41. 4 points
    Just finished reading the Airfix email. Yes it's a Victor. Definitely buying one. But the other news is good too. A Martlet and a 1/48 Ju87. The cup runneth over even if the money runneth out.
  42. 4 points
    Yeesh, look how long I've left this. Geeze. "Can I talk to you about our lord and savior, the Supermarine Spitfire?" Winston's getting big, and alarming strong. My wife claims that last night, after I retired to bed with a migraine, Winston cried from 10:30 PM (when I went downstairs and slept on the couch) to 2 AM, when I returned, sleepily rolled my cell phone (as a social media person I sometimes have things happen workwise at weird hours, and I also use it for an alarm clock) up into my t-shirt, picked him up, rocked him to sleep, handed him back to her, grunted "this was a fluke", and then went to sleep in our bed. I have no recollection of any of this. Believe it or not, as you wish. At any rate, I've been working a little on the model, mostly sanding the wing leading edge. Imagine, however, my excitement when Alclad released RAF High Speed Silver as a colour! I ordered two bottles, and sprayed the gear doors of the kit. The Airfix Valiant, it turns out, has a very pebbly, uneven surface, with weird skeins of plastic running through it like stretch marks, and I had to sand down the Alclad with 4000 grit micromesh, and then respray, then polish that with 6000 and 12000. It looks...okay... now. But I see why there are very few Suez Valiants about. Additionally, the resin control surfaces -- which are subtly different from the kit ones -- for the tail had a weird crinkly effect that meant I had to sand them down too, wearing my trusty gas mask (thanks Cookie!) until they looked rather less like they were made from tin foil. One of the PE vortice generators perished valiantly during this, but I have more. So yes, little has been accomplished as of late, and I have no photos for you tonight. Tomorrow I go to the IPMS Butch O'Hare show about 45 miles from my house, the closest modelling thingy to me. Mrs. P goes to Florida with Winston on the 14th for a week, so I look forward to the brief return of unlimited free time for a spell.
  43. 4 points
    … continued Now it’s time for the general assembly for all these parts: First a dry fitting of the two towers. After trials I decided to show the diorama during removal of the service towers as to highlight the launcher with contrasting colours: Making the four huge tower actuators: ] The towers are secured in their final configuration: Making the launch arms and tower actuators Another (last) detailing step: adding electrical boxes and cable connexions at the base of each tower: I added fourteen worker figures. These are modified Bundeswehr pilots from Preiser. I replaced helmets and caps with worker helmets made of Magic Sculpt. Some clothing were modified the same way. ET VOILA ! After two years of work this assembly is finished ! Hope you enjoyed it. _Bruno
  44. 3 points
    G'day people, I like F-16's. I have pulled this already started F-16 from the cupboard of shame. A few of my modelling mates decided to have an F-16 challenge. Whilst I did manage to get one finished, http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234982805-hasegawa-172-f-16n-top-gun/?hl=pappy Unfortunately, this one did not make it that far. Anyhoooooo, I have decided that I want this one done before the end of the year. The Hasegawa F-16 kits are good, lately surpassed by Tamiya's effort (and to some extent Kinetic), but they do have some delicate detail and importantly they go together quite well. With the advent of the newer kits, the Hasegawa kits can be bought quite reasonably. I managed to get two 1/48 has kits and some PE for just $10AUS at our annual swap and sell. No doubt people getting rid of their 'crappy' Hasegawa kit for the latest and greatest. So, here is where I got up to before I stopped, A PE set was included and some of the details were added to the cockpit. To be really accurate, the canopy actuator/motor should live in a recessed area at the front of the aft turtle deck. I had originally intended to build this kit wheels up (canopy down) so I did not bother to correct this. I bought a PE set to depict the fuselage strengthening plates that have been retrofitted to several F-16's during their mid life update. I also decided to utilise the option of open speed brakes, so these were removed prior to assembling the fuselage. I also added the engine exhaust. Many builders add this last but i have found that the 'doughnut' does not fit that well as the contours do not match the fuselage no matter how careful the builder is. Although it will require more masking I decide to do the filling and sanding now, rather than wait until the end and have a really obvious seam. i realise that there is a natural panel line here, but I find it does not match the other fuselage panel lines. The engine interior was weathered up using oils, both neat and as a wash. So, today I decide to mess around with the main gear bays. Instead of buying resin, I have added bits and pieces of etch, wire and plastic to try and emulate this busy area. I have since removed the PE mesh panel located between the APU inlet and exhaust doors. The PE instructions indicated that this was where it lived and I blindly trusted them. When I pulled this kit out and started looking at my refs for the wheel bays I realised the mistake -grrrrrr! cheers, Pappy
  45. 3 points
    I was talking to the doctor yesterday, and we discussed how she is awake for the surgeries, but tends to not have any recollection afterward. Apparently, they need her to be able to follow directions if they need her to do anything. During this week's procedure, they had to keep telling her "Can you stop talking now? We're trying to cut your eye open." Cheers, Bill
  46. 3 points
    No. I can spot that they are different, but that isn't the same as a "problem". Without accurate numerical data (actual diameters etc), either one or both could be incorrect.
  47. 3 points
    You got the scale wrong though. Should surely read Revell VC-10 1/72 new tool ? Allan
  48. 3 points
    Decalling underway. The HaHen decals are great. Very thin, can take a lot of handling and conform to curves nicely.
  49. 3 points
    Finally, the paint job is done!
  50. 3 points
    Carrying on with this in the KUTA GB.... Paint and decals applied. A few lights to fit and she is done.