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About albergman

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 08/06/1938

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  • Location
    Ontario Canada
  • Interests
    Scratch builder of car, boat and steam engine models. Enthusiastic sailor and (used to be) windsurfer. Interested in photography, computers and travel.

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  1. "Locomotive Breath" ... I had a girlfriend once who had that. Ian Anderson comes from my old home town of Dunfermline in Fife, Scotland. His "Thick as a Brick" album is in my top ten of all time. We now resume the previous program. Pardon the digression BB/BS ... won't happen again.
  2. As always ... BB and BS have come up with a never before seen approach to the problem. Well done team!! This project is definitely "on track".
  3. Wonderful scratch build project. Most impressive given that you had to make your own drawings. Frank
  4. At the risk of boring you with details here's an early approach I took. I made a pair of frames from my favourite Formica/Arborite panels and glued my early-version cast wheels onto them such that the entire thing (bogie wheels, drivers and cab wheel) would sit on my jig. It was great to have all the wheels immovable and placed with the precise spacing between them. This really aids in fabricating and fitting the pieces of the motion* that will eventually attach to them. *Motion ... the metal bits that whirl round and round and up and down. In the end I switched from Formica to a soldered-up heavy brass apparatus but used the same approach. The key point here is that the motion and wheels can be assembled independent of the boiler and all that stuff top-sides. In fact, for a long time, all that topside stuff was just mounted on posts in between the wheels and was never connected at all. http:// http:// Frank
  5. Steve and BB. You two are taking me back in time as the task starts to sink in. Truly, it does become tricky to assemble all the gubbins required (railway terminology) and still have the wheels meet the track. My own two "scents" of advice here would be to tackle this most necessary requirement first. To do that I'd suggest you set up a dummy bit of track ... maybe take a board and run it through a table saw to cut two shallow (1/4") slots at the correct width to replicate the rails. Now just tack all the wheels to it with the right lengthwise spacing between them. Now you have a jig with the wheels in their mandatory locations. You might say these positions are non-negotiable. You now of course have to decide how to fit the rest of the loco to this jig but it's an easier dilemma. Hope this is useful to you both. Frank
  6. Oh my oh my ... this is REAL scratch building. Marvellous work. Frank
  7. Thanks Cooper. Fabric printing is not hard to do after you massage the pattern on the computer down/up to the scale you want to print. The secret that my wife showed me is to find a fine weave fabric (tighter weave will take better details) and use a steam iron to press it onto what is known here in Canada as "freezer paper". This is a strong, waxy paper literally used to wrap foods prior to freezing. Amazingly, the fabric will bond to it (I'm guessing that the wax melts under the heat). Trim the bonded material down to an 8.5 x 11 (A4 size) and run it through your inkjet printer. Job done. Thanks too C'nut. Love to see you have a go at it ... Bandsaw Steve has got his daughter scratchbuilding a steam engine so there's the gauntlet thrown down LOL!
  8. My my! This does take me back in time. Off to a wonderful start young lady. Isn't it fun to already be able to see the very thing you want to build coming into shape. I don't know much about steam engines but the flat, horizontal surface under the boiler is referred to as a plate or footplate (an extension of the platform the driver and fireman stand on) while the vertical "beams" under that, what your Dad referred to as the chassis, are the frames. They hold up the boiler and the axles and wheels and everything else get nailed onto them. This is riveting work!! Frank
  9. Hi Codger I agree that the wheelbase looks a bit compressed but I think it's a trick of the camera (I just used my tablet). You had me diving for my calipers and here's how it checks out. In reality (according to F1technical.net) the car is 4025 mm long with 3 possible wheelbases ... 92, 87.5 and 85 inches or 2337, 2222 and 2159 mms. I chose the longest. My model is 231 mm long with a 133 mm w/b. If we divide the real length by model length 4025/231 we get 17.4. Dividing the real wheelbase by that scale (2337/17.4) we get 134 so I'm short by 1 mm! To be honest, when I epoxied the front wheel module (wheels, suspension and a joining block) into the cavity of the body I just eyeballed it so I could easily be out a mm or more. Thanks for the comment. Frank
  10. That's a fine effort there Redshift. I've done a few all wood cars and if I may pass on a tip I'd suggest you brush/spray on as many coats of shellac as necessary to fill in the grain and keep fine sanding (600 wet sandpaper) each coat till a smooth, dull surface results. At that point you could finish it with clear gloss lacquer or even varnish. I've never heard of the particular wood you've used but it does seem to be very open grain. Anyway, sorry for sticking my nose in! Keep up the scratch building as it's very rewarding. Frank
  11. Hello again Well, this is the last in my planned trilogy of scratch built F1 cars from the 50's. The other two were my Lancia D50 and the Maserati 250F. To me these 3 were the best looking of that era but feel free to disagree. For those who care about scale all three are about 1/18th (+ or -). Again, the body is carved from Renshape and all other parts are made from found materials but it is 100% hand made. In researching the car I quickly learned that it went through many changes from race to race over its 2 year life span and I couldn't find any "official" plans of any version. In the end I drew my own plans and just arbitrarily chose which features I'd include or leave out ... at my age you can do that! There were different exhaust lengths, a multitude of different holes appeared and disappeared all over the body, different shapes of scoops and even that iconic "nostril" wasn't on the earliest cars. Those early cars had inboard brake drums too which lasted until they went on a weight saving campaign and moved them to the wheels. So the bottom line is that my car is a smorgasborg of shapes and parts all of which did appear on the car but just maybe not at the same time! So, if you're really anal about how the car should look ... feel free to drop me a comment but I'm not going to change it! LOL. I did make an effort to replicate that tartan they used on the seats in the fifties and found that Mercedes has recently reproduced the 3 varieties that were used. I chose the closest pattern/colour combo and re-sized it to my scale then my wife (a quilter) showed me how to print it on fine fabric in my ink-jet printer ... worked a charm! I haven't done a build log as this one is very similar in process to the other 50's cars. I did take quite a few pictures and I could post some if anyone needs more info. Thanks for looking in. Frank Three from the Fifties ... Here's the fabric I printed for the seat ...
  12. Steve A couple of years ago we talked about composite wood that is being sold for building decks and docks. I suggested you contact some of the companies down under as they sometimes offered free samples and I believe you did that ... yes/no?? I think you and BB might find it very suitable and easier to fabricate than real wood. My own loco was initially shaped using Renshape (before I switched it all to brass) which is very similar to these new synthetic woods and it is very nice to work with being of uniform composition and having no grain to deal with. Just a thought. The first 2 pictures in my build log of the Scotsman show some of that early use of Renshape.
  13. Steve!! Don't know what made me check in here today after a long absence but, my ears were twitching and now I know why ... somebody's scratch-building a UK steam engine!! My goodness, what ambition this young lady has and I send her all my best wishes. Wow, talk about jumping in at the deep end but she's in Dad's capable hands and it should be great fun for both of you. There's a lot of precision required in such a model but since she's only twelve I imagine you'll be simplifying the project so that she can create something that satisfies her and maybe whets her appetite to build another model. For many successive years I tutored a grand-son from age 8 in scratch-building a model of his choice. Started with a pterosaur (ask your daughter), the submarine from "Finding Nemo", a WW2 fighter, a Caterham 7, a top fuel dragster etc. The key was always to simplify the task to his abilities and let him create something that, to his eyes, was just what he wanted. Take lots of pictures and enjoy the ride! Frank
  14. Wonderful models sir! I too would like to know more about your finishing process if you wouldn't mind sharing.
  15. Thanks guys. There are WIP entries for the two red ones on BM ... Maserati and Lancia. Other scratch builds: Lancia D50 57 Ferrari Testa Rossa 54 Ferrari 375MM Triumph TR6 Misc. Wooden Cars Boats: Trojan SF36 Dragon Beneteau 51 Half-hull sailboats Locomotive: Flying Scotsman Steam Engine
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