james424 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Ok, so I know this is going to cause mass debating and opinions galore BUT I need to ask the question anyway... So, you reach that point on your build when you need to start fixing on your canopy/window/porthole/lights etc etc, but you don't want said clear part to end up with cloudy marks and tatty bits at the edge where the modelling glue has set. What adhesive do you guys tend to reach for when using clear plastic parts - Do you go for a bit of PVA as I have recently seen used or do you head for the 'Micro crystal clear' as I've just seen advertised on wonderland models... My question has been asked and the worm can has been opened... Over to you guys for your sage advice and collective years of experience. As always, any info and advice will be more than welcome - Many thanks James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radleigh Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I use superglue, and put TINY spots onto the joining parts with a small needle head cut (so its like a prong). Never used PVA, but heard about it, I guess it's all down to personal preference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Ok, so I know this is going to cause mass debating and opinions galore BUT I need to ask the question anyway...So, you reach that point on your build when you need to start fixing on your canopy/window/porthole/lights etc etc, but you don't want said clear part to end up with cloudy marks and tatty bits at the edge where the modelling glue has set. What adhesive do you guys tend to reach for when using clear plastic parts - Do you go for a bit of PVA as I have recently seen used or do you head for the 'Micro crystal clear' as I've just seen advertised on wonderland models... My question has been asked and the worm can has been opened... Over to you guys for your sage advice and collective years of experience. As always, any info and advice will be more than welcome - Many thanks James Superglue applied in very small amounts using a bit of thin, stiff wire in a pin vice and allowed to dry normally, no accelerator. I've never had any problem with fogging. When dry it can be sanded, scribed etc. I always add all fixed glazing before painting. HTH Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I use either Krystal Klear or GS Hypo glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigsty Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I've tried a lot. First thing to remember is, clear plastic is still polystyrene, so normal polystyrene cement and the alternatives like methyl chloride all work on it. If you're careful (and lucky enough to have no gaps), thin cements can be run into the joint between clear and solid plastic, and this should leave no marks. Thicker cement will work too, if used sparingly. The difference in plasticity between clear and solid parts does sometimes cause problems with cements, so many prefer bonds to solvents. CA glue is very good, of course, but it will generally fog clear parts irretrievably. The best way to avoid that is a clear barrier such as Klear. PVA is a much less destructive bond. Most wood glue will do, although there are more specialist options like Formula 560. The great advantage is that this stuff usually dries clear, although it can still look a bit obvious. It's not as strong a bond as the others, but in most normal circumstances it's fine. Gator Glue is similar but is, I believe, something different again, although the details elude me. Clear-setting fillers like Crystal Clear or Clearfix are another way. My main reservation on them is price. And with all that off my chest ... I have no strong preference, would you believe? As a rule I use whichever is easiest to get out of the bottle / tube at the relevant time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Ok, so I know this is going to cause mass debating and opinions galore BUT I need to ask the question anyway... So, you reach that point on your build when you need to start fixing on your canopy/window/porthole/lights etc etc, but you don't want said clear part to end up with cloudy marks and tatty bits at the edge where the modelling glue has set. What adhesive do you guys tend to reach for when using clear plastic parts - Do you go for a bit of PVA as I have recently seen used or do you head for the 'Micro crystal clear' as I've just seen advertised on wonderland models... My question has been asked and the worm can has been opened... Over to you guys for your sage advice and collective years of experience. As always, any info and advice will be more than welcome - Many thanks James James, PVA is good since you can always dissolve it for a second go or wipe away excess. Modelling PVAs dry clear and Krystal Kleer is just refined PVA anyway as is Gators Glue. Using cyano (superglue) can cause fogging, dipping the transparency in a suitable varnish can protect (e.g. Kleer). Nige Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer Vor!!! Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I use either Krystal Klear or GS Hypo glue. krystal klear as above its the bees knees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigec Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I use Gorilla glue which is like PVA you have time to position the canopy without fear of it drying on you and if there's any excess you can wipe it away with a slighty moist cotton bud also it drys clear. Cheers Nige Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I'm a devotee of GS-Hypo cement, which you can pick up on eBay for a couple of quid. It's non-solvent, and gives a nice strong bond, with time to re-position it if necessary. It dries crystal clear (it's a watch crystal cement), and has a nice fine needle applicator, so you can put it exactly where you need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 My vote's with Formula 560 - gap filling, strong when set, clean up with damp finger or cotton bud, no danger of affecting the clear part. Brilliant stuff, and a tube lasts ages... bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 From what customers have asked me to stock, I would say the following; Gator grip glue GS-hypo cement Deluxe glue n glaze Canopy glue / Pacer Formula 560 or CA, but be careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bri48 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I use JD Perkins Procan. 01622 854 300 Clear Flexible fast drying. Bonds all types of canopies decks etc... Excellent stuff. http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/92007/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bootneck Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Have you seen this? Watch the video to the end. Only available in Germany at the moment but I'm sure it will become available here later Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev67 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Have you seen this?Watch the video to the end. Only available in Germany at the moment but I'm sure it will become available here later Mike These Germans are clever, I bet its not cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james424 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hmmm... Some pretty intresting comments coming up here. I think for the moment being I'm going to give a bit of PVA a go and then invest in some Krystal Klear and see what I manage with that - Unless anyone else has anything they can recommend??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bootneck Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 These Germans are clever, I bet its not cheap The only shops which are selling it at the moment (Bauhaus AG.) are selling it for 19.95 Euros Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnT Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I'm a devotee of GS-Hypo cement, which you can pick up on eBay for a couple of quid. It's non-solvent, and gives a nice strong bond, with time to re-position it if necessary. It dries crystal clear (it's a watch crystal cement), and has a nice fine needle applicator, so you can put it exactly where you need it. Mike - not tried that - does it have a trade name eg UHU Bostick etc ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer Vor!!! Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Mike - not tried that - does it have a trade name eg UHU Bostick etc ? thats its name john put that in ebay shar showed it me its brillant aslo can be uesed for making rigging on ships and biplanes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 ...if you do decide to go for watch crystal cement, make sure it's the non-solvent kind. I bought some after reading recommendations for generic watch crystal cement, and it's the worst stuff I've ever found for fogging canopies! bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I really like gator grip, thinner than pva. very easy to wipe away excess and dries very clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Hmmm... Some pretty intresting comments coming up here. I think for the moment being I'm going to give a bit of PVA a go and then invest in some Krystal Klear and see what I manage with that - Unless anyone else has anything they can recommend??? As I said earlier, Krystal Kleer is refined PVA and is almost the same product as Glue n' Glaze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avro683 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 I second Gator Grip, brilliant stuff! Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky sparky Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Slaters MEK-PAK always. Doesn't fog like superglue, holds like normal cement (Humbrol) but dries quicker. Fill gaps with diluted white glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Slaters MEK-PAK always. Doesn't fog like superglue, holds like normal cement (Humbrol) but dries quicker. Fill gaps with diluted white glue. MEK won't work with vac canopies though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce3371 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I always use very slightly thinned PVA, applied with a toothpick... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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