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Everything posted by pigsty

  1. For some reason this reminds me of the animal rights people who liberated a snail farm by opening the gate and leaving them to it. Imagine them standing there, clattering a stick in a bucket, shouting "Run! Run to freedom!"
  2. Hooray! Amazing - we never even got to try the replacement venue in Sovereign Harbour, and now this ... Looking forward to it already.
  3. According to the news that chap who's just had a transplant from a pig isn't all that happy about it. He said "It's bacon, my heart."
  4. Here's the runners and riders. Clubs Aldershot BMSS Cambridge MAFVA East Kent club Hailsham Scale Model Club Horsham Modellers Club IPMS Gravesham Military Modelling Society Shepway Military Modelling Society South Downs Model Club Welling Model Club Traders Elan 13 Miniatures Guideline Publications Tony Bareham Simon McArthur books M.D.P John Pol Mezzer’s Miniatures Sovereign 2000 And the good news is, we have a waiting list. See you in a few weeks.
  5. North Surrey's back! Our annual show's scheduled for Saturday 5 February, 10 until 4, at the usual venue of Banstead Community Centre. All, of course, restrictions permitting. I'll update this with the clubs and traders as soon as I can.
  6. I'm going to start a business specialising in cleaning toothpaste specks off bathroom mirrors. It's a job I can see myself doing.
  7. This is my latest - Hasegawa’s 1980s-vintage A-7E, from the Revell box. I remember seeing this kit when I was at university and being impressed by its standards, and it still holds up today. For instance, I’m sure it has a better intake shape than the newer Hobby Boss job. There are some nice little features, especially the pylons. They come with good sway braces and a chamfered top to fit the wing anhedral - and the locating pins are handed, to make it even harder to fit them under the wrong wings. The wing isn’t a great fit to the fuselage, but you can minimise the problems by not pressing it too tightly home (mainly at the front), leaving only small steps to fair in at either end. But it’s not all roses. As I prefer my aircraft fairly tidy, I closed the boarding steps and avionic bays, and they were hard to do neatly, just as I’d expected. And the joint between inner and outer wings was poor, as it seems always to be with naval kits. I thought the outboard pylons would be trouble too, as they attach right on the hinge line, but that worked out okay. (Still, if I had my way I’d include two completely separate sets of parts for wings-up and wings-down, and hang the expense.) The other big problem was that all the cockpit glazing was much too wide. I had to pin down one side with Plastic Weld, let that set, and then pinch the parts and do the same on the other side. It only half-worked. Tidy, but not clean. Corsairs were grubby things in service, so I’ve given it a fair bit of weathering. I might have underdone it with the wheels. The decals are mostly from Eagle Strike. They went on well and I had no real problems with long ones tying themselves in knots, but once on they were strangely fragile, which made panel lines a bit of a problem. The Sidewinders come from the kit; the Walleye and the Rockeyes are also Hasegawa, from one of their weapons sets. They never produced a targeting pod, though, so I got mine from Daco (under their Astra brand). It was nice - but it was quite expensive, one end was larger than the other, and it had shocking decals that needed Klear to get them to stick. I suspect I could have bodged one fairly well from an old rocket pod. So there’s a learning point to take forward, eh.
  8. Any actual aerofoil would generate a slight yaw moment so, unless there was a problem with engine torque and swing that couldn't be fixed with rudder trim*, they'd make the fin symmetrical. And as rossm says, the shape would be streamlined: thicker where the rudder post is, and thinner at either edge to reduce drag. * it happens - hence some like the Hurricane having a slightly offset fin. But even then it wasn't a full aerofoil.
  9. Hattons in Widnes is pretty good; don't know if that's close enough for you? It sells itself as a model railway shop, but there's kits too - I got my 1/48 Javelin from them at a good price a few years ago.
  10. Thanks for that. I knew about Hataka's stuff, but it's expensive and I much prefer enamels. FS numbers (even rough ones) would be great - though there doesn't seem to be a chart in your post, just the material from the side of the Hataka box. I've checked good old IPMS Stockholm and they seem to have only Ilmavoimat colours. Was something else meant to be there?
  11. Could someone drop the text in for we Luddites who stay well away from TwitFace?
  12. Next on the bench is a Leopard 2A4 to be done in Finnish splinter camouflage, using Echelon's 1/35 decals. I'm having a spot of bother with their colour suggestions. The near-black is fine but the two greens look far too dark. They want FS 34077 and FS 34102 - I know these are only approximations, but even so, 34102 is the lighter green in the old USAF Vietnam scheme and the colour used on the real thing looks a lot lighter and a bit yellower. Much the same goes for the other one. So, does anyone have any suggestions? Ideally from the Humbrol range or Tamiya or Revell, but I can work from a decently accurate standardised colour and explain it with weathering. The dark green's not NATO green, is it?
  13. Just had the strangest accident putting up the Christmas decorations. I broke one of them and managed to get some lodged in the back of my throat, and now my voice is all hoarse. "Don't worry," the doctor told me, "it'll be gone by the sixth of January." "How d'you know that?" I asked. "It's tinsellitis."
  14. So, for the thread on show economics ... what are the costs that are scuppering these shows, and how do they differ from before?
  15. Fresh from the Branch & SIG leaders' briefing at Telford: IPMS UK is looking at charging for some display space. They've had the same complaints that have been rehearsed here, about traders having to subsidise show costs, and their proposed solution is that all clubs and SIGs will get six feet (two tables) free, and every extra six feet after that will be £10 for the weekend. (For two extra tables that's cheaper than the rates some other shows have charged, worked out per-day.) Anyone can bid for as much space as they want, though whether you get it all will depend on numbers. This went down fairly quietly in the meeting, so perhaps there's a general feeling that something in the economics will have to change - though this applies only to Telford, which is uniquely large. Unless someone comes up with an alternative, it's almost certain to be how next year is organised. Any alternative will have to meet the same condition of taking some of the load off the traders, without being resisted for "charging people who have no interest in coming". And all ideas may involve some tricky tax treatment, so the details may change. Personally, it's a bit of a shame, but it's not a lot to pay in the great scheme of things. Take your minimum five IPMS members along for the weekend and they're effectively paying a pound each per day.
  16. That's like the TV trick when they interview Arsenal players outside the stadium. As if by magic, the frame always shows the first four letters of the club's name, right above the player's head.
  17. ^^ That's the right sort - they do come out softer than blackboard chalk. And you can see the problem with buying generic sets - you've got maybe four helpful colours there, just like me with my lime green and pink sticks that will never ever get any shorter. The range in an art shop is far wider - get yourself a selection of dark browns, dark greys and reddish browns and that'll cover just about anything. You can also do dust effects with lighter colours.
  18. No idea, I've never been brave enough to try oils. But pigments and chalk pastels are essentially the same thing: dyestuff plus binder. And pastels can be applied wet, or have small amounts of liquid added after application to give your effect extra depth. I'm not so sure. The binders in oil pastels are more like lipstick than the media that oil paints are based on. I wouldn't let them near a model. But I suppose the surefire way to find out, for either type, is to try it out.
  19. Tamiya's basically done what others like AK have done with their pigments: repackaged pastels at much greater cost. If they're grainy and they don't stick, as Ade H says, they've not even managed that. I always recommend straight chalk pastels for this sort of thing: they're cheaper, the range of colours is huge, and they're designed for making artwork so they'll be consistent and decently grained. And they can be mixed, too. Tips for use: * I prepare them by sanding a bit off the end of the stick onto a piece of paper. The needle file I use for this looks horrible but it's easy to clean afterwards. A triangular one, plus careful use of the length, gives you at least six colours without mixing them. * I apply them with a soft dry brush (NB: not dry-brushing, that's different). The amount you can pick at once is so small, and it's so easy to use it all up, that you never have to worry about one colour contaminating the next in the bristles. * the ground pastels on the paper always look much lighter than the stick they were ground off, and what you apply to the model always looks lighter still. It's because the coat is getting thinner each time. But that's good, because you can keep adding more until you're happy, which is a lot easier than taking any away. (Although they can be rubbed off, mostly.) * beware of large chunks getting trapped in the bristles - it's like drawing the colour onto the surface. * pastels are happiest on a matt surface, but one or two coats of Klear doesn't seem to harm their adhesion. * most pastels will survive gentle handling but (i) too much and they'll all but disappear, and (ii) they're very good at picking up fingerprints. * and, of course: practise on something else first.
  20. Reading from the original photo, the first clue is that the line you identified isn't nearly broad enough to be the hinge line of a separate surface. Especially in the 1950s, but still today, an elevator would have a marked indentation all the way along, with the profile of its leading edge visible just aft of the fixed surface. And to confirm that, the line looks just like the definite panel line ahead of it. Doesn't help when references are (at best) mistaken, does it?
  21. You may not believe this, but Telford probably has more room for visitors than almost any show. Anyone who remembers the first NewMod will know how bad things can be - tables barely four feet apart, with some nit driving toy tanks up and down the little space there was. The floor plans suggest the banks of tables will be spaced as far apart as ever. Behind the tables it can be a bit cosy, shall we say, but even then there are far worse venues. And the initial surge wears off fairly quickly as people remember the show does actually extend more than ten feet from the entrance. Ooh ... I wonder if they'll remember my suggestion about having more than two seats per club?
  22. This page: https://ipmsuk.org/ipms-scale-modelworld/scale-modelworld-2021-timetable/ mentions membership registration. As the only people allowed in on Friday are set-up crews, I'm assuming it's for other members to pick up their wristbands early. No, fair enough, that's true. But what's left? What other way is there of getting the information to them? Besides, I can't see anyone turning up to Telford on spec - at the very least, they'll have had to look up the dates; and if their only source of information is the IPMS magazine, that's full of warnings too.
  23. That will be quite a good trick. If they booked non-member tickets they'll have had ample warning from IPMS UK. It's all over the IPMS website and I suspect many will start there when booking their tickets. Either way, when you book, the terms and conditions include this: The Organiser or venue management may put in place specific conditions of entry. This could include, but is not limited to providing evidence of vaccination, a negative lateral flow test or wearing face coverings. The Organiser website will have the specific conditions of entry for their event. - and these days, anyone who doesn't check for stuff like that before booking is a fool. If they're members, they'll have had ample warning from other IPMS sources as well as the website. But you're right, there will still be numpties who've managed not to take any notice of all that and will be moaning about it at the entrance. There will also be numpties who've turned up without a ticket and still expect to pay cash and come in. There's always some, no matter what the occasion or the venue or the conditions of entry. I'm hoping there will be good security support at the front desk this year. As I write the position on pre-registration for members is a little unclear. One page of the website says there will be a pre-reg desk; another says it can't be confirmed until the venue has said what's allowed. Do we know which it is?
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