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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Fritag

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Fritag last won the day on February 2 2016

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  1. This accords with my experience which is why I may have been a bit slapdash mixing last night's batch. But it's also the case that I've had the silicon for quite a while so maybe age (not mine - it's) has something to do with it. I've now used the last of the catalyst anyways so I've had to order a new batch. I've gone for 500g of silicon and this time for a 'green' catalyst (which is purported to cure in a third of the time of the red that I've generally used). I might chuck the little of my last batch of silicon away now - probably about 100g of it left. As to the two part resin mix. I decant small quantities of part A and B into eye dropper bottles which I find useful as i can then mix small equal quantities by number of drops (works a treat). But the price to be paid is that after a period of disuse the eye dropper bottles crust up/gum up and have to be thrown away. S'worth it tho'. I decant a lot of stuff such as thinners various/flow enhancer/klear/rubbing alcohol etc into eye dropper bottles (generally 30ml size) for convenience. I get the bottles cheaply on eBay.
  2. Interesting thought Bill, I like the logic of that thinking - and seeing as I'm no chemist I can't refute it - and anyways i quite like the idea of having some clear resin on the shelf for use with making bits and bobs like the Strobe lights etc. All I've had time to do in the last couple of days is get the canopy masters ready for casting. I spent a therapeutic(?) session sanding off the framework and micro-meshing the canopies nice and smooth. Then mounted em on a plasticine bases ready for pouring the RTV silicone. I wanted the bases to be of a size and shape to make (1) a generous reservoir for the pouring resin - I've found this is the best way (short of a pressure chamber) in minimising the problem of air bubbles -(as there's plenty of room for the bubbles to float to the surface) and (2) provide a well shaped base for when it come to Vacc forming. RTV mixed and nice neat lego mould. Look at all those air bubbles Half filled mould. I paused at this point for a few minutes, to let as many air bubbles as were willing rise to the surface and pop, before pouring in the rest of the RTV. The RTV was still a bit tacky this morning. Hope it's going to cure good and proper...... The talk of remove before flight flags got me thinking again about fitting a pair of CBLS to the Chivenor 63 sqn Hawk. I'm not sure whether to or not - but in case i decide to fit em I thought I'd do a bit of basic prep. I have the Flightpath white metal CBLS but I can't get on with white metal bits so I decided to cast a copy in resin - which I can then work on to see if I'm happy with it; and if I am, I can then cast a couple of copies of that to use on the model. With me? Given the last batch of RTV was still tacky I used some microscales (as recommended by @Cheshiretaurus in his thread on home-brew PE) to get the ratios exactly as per....(I've done a lot of RTV/resin casting now and I guess I was getting a bit slack about the exactitude of my measuring.....): Hopefully when I get home tonight all the RTV will be cured.......
  3. Lovely. I really like the sophisticated painting on the seats and belts (I guess all that time spent figure painting isn't a waste of time after all (sorry)). Brings the kit to life
  4. Ta keith - I'll have to check references. I don't remember seeing pins being in the undercarriage on the flight line - but I could easily be wrong. I expect the fabric intake covers are land-away gear. IIRC the usual intake covers were flat fronted and fitted mostly inside the intake. I think CT tried mixing in some aluminium powder with his resin for that reason. Can't remember with what results. I guess if I have problems with discolouration I could experiment with hollowing out the resin master a bit and filling it with liquid gravity or some such.
  5. Ah yes - actually as I think about it - unless I fit CBLS - which I weren't planning to, I'm not sure if and where there'd be any stripey jobbers.....
  6. I dunno what I said - it's all google to me......
  7. Ok so: Grommit - cheese - cheese eating surrender monkeys (sorry) - alpha jet - hawk v alpha jet rivalry. Funny how the old brain works innit?
  8. I'll google dental plaster ta Keith. I've tried painting resin masters before without much success. Even tried gloss radiator paint! The paint didn't react well to the heat. I think it must be something to do with the heat retention properties of the resin. IIRC @Cheshiretaurus has had the same issue with resin casts.
  9. Mrs F and I have got some Finnish friends who've just moved out to Chicago for work. We're gonna fly out in the summer to see them ......in Toronto! Actually I liked Chicago a lot when we went there for our hols in Nov 14 (mind you it was bloomin cold - oh and we stayed in the Langham - which was nice - but it meant we had to look at the Trump tower every time we left the hotel!)......
  10. The mini-est of mini updates - just to show Bill that I too am still broadcasting; and to riposte à hendie (this only makes sense if you're familiar with Bill's Wopsie thread I'm afraid....) Begun the detailed painting on the seats with the yellow of the hard PSP (personal survival pack) seat base - it's mostly covered with a black cushion so only a glimpse of the sides here and there is visible: I plan to have the the two rear seats fitted with solo flight aprons which'll cover all this work - but I figure that if I detail paint all four of them then I increase the chance of two of them being half decent And I've spent some time prepping some canopy components ready to make a silicone mould from: I vacc'd a test canopy a long time back - but I think I can do better. Once I've got a silicone mould I'll cast some resin - and maybe plaster - copies to use as male masters. I've found that resin masters tend to discolour clear vac formed sheet (but also found that if you do a few you stand a chance of getting one that hasn't discoloured) hence I thought I'd give plaster a go. Any better suggestions gratefully received.... There - not much done - but something!
  11. D'accord, je reçois le message! Je publierai une petite mise à jour. Mais d'abord je dois le dire, travail fantastique Bill......
  12. Me too. So much good brass-work going on that I'm getting flashbacks to an @hendie build...........
  13. Me too (or is that three?) Lovely, neat and not too heavy lines... I don't think you need any pointers Cookie. But for wot its worth: A sewing machine needle is my favourite tool for scribing as it's so controllable and versatile. I like the way you can start off with a pass or two using just very faint pressure, to establish the line and reduce the risk of dislodging the scribing guide, and only then then deepen the line using more pressure with either the sewing machine needle or one of the commercial scribers. Doing it this way I've found I can use even thin vinyl tape as a guide if I need to (e.g on curved lines). I've found that Airfix plastic is quite soft and good for scribing. Although I usually have to rub down the line with a fine sanding stick to remove the slight raised burr either side of the scribed line - and I usually finish off by brushing along the line very lightly with liquid cement with leaves everything nice and crisp. But I 'spect this is all pretty trite stuff PS. I also really like the RB 'Scribe-R Angled' angled scribers; one straight edge and one angled - useful for scribing flap/aileron hinge lines.