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Posted

Hi everyone, could someone recommend a masking fluid. I've tried Humbrol but didn't really get on with it. 

Thanks and happy modelling..

Posted

The only time I've used a masking fluid, it was this stuff:

 

50260073626_5f97eba703_c.jpg

 

I put some over the Gunze-Sangyo Dark Earth, on the nose of a Hurricane. When I removed it, it lifted up some of the Dark Earth.

 

50373078028_df120fec40_b.jpg

 

 

 

Next time, I'll try something else.

 

 

 

 

Chris

Posted
4 hours ago, dnl42 said:

I've had good luck with Microscale Industries Micro Mask. I usually fill in around tape borders. 

I'll have a look for it thanks.

 

4 hours ago, dnl42 said:

I've had good luck with Microscale Industries Micro Mask. I usually fill in around tape borders. 

 

4 hours ago, dnl42 said:

I've had good luck with Microscale Industries Micro Mask. I usually fill in around tape borders. 

I'll have a look for it thanks.

Posted
3 hours ago, dogsbody said:

The only time I've used a masking fluid, it was this stuff:

 

50260073626_5f97eba703_c.jpg

 

I put some over the Gunze-Sangyo Dark Earth, on the nose of a Hurricane. When I removed it, it lifted up some of the Dark Earth.

 

50373078028_df120fec40_b.jpg

 

 

 

Next time, I'll try something else.

 

 

 

 

Chris

I'll stear clear thanks 

Posted

The paint lifting comment reminds me to note this important point. The masking fluid needs to be compatible with the paint. If the paint and making fluid use similar solvents, you'll have a bad experience. 

 

To that point, I primarily use Mr.Color.

Posted

I tried different brands of masking fluid "for modellers" over the years and quite often experienced problems, from difficulty to remove the dried masking to (dis)coloured and even sometimes literally melted paint. That even if the product was said "not aggressive". I found out (thanks BMers) that the problem is that most masking fluids contain more or less ammonia which is really not friendly with the water or alcohol based acrylic paints I use.

 

I decided to take a look elsewhere, at artist's masking fluid that is. As it's used with watercolours it should be harmless for our paints, shouldn't it? Well, beware, these may also contain ammonia (bought, opened, smelled, binned).

 

Finally I found (at a local artist shop) one from Schmincke, available in a transparent or blue version. That one states "neutral - ammonia free". Very happy with it: easy to apply and remove, zero adverse effect on paint until now.

One caveat: (very) pricey. 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Micro Mask has a "warning" on the label advising use of petroleum-based paints on top.

Paints containing water are not recommended

 

I've had it lift acrylics

Currently I'm using Mr Masking Sol Neo or Copydex

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Some already suggested "watercolor masking fluid" for acrylics - and I want to give +1 there for those, either W&N or any good quality craft one. Yes, the masking fluid for modellers is a case of "re-bottling, relabel and sell for 2x more money".

Edited by Casey
Posted

I use Frisk Artist’s Blue Masking Fluid from Hobbycraft - surprisingly cheap (especially for Hobbycraft) which I found was better than any other I’d tried as it seemed slightly thinner, but worked just as well. Don’t know if they still sell it though as I’ve had my current bottle for quite a while now.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey guys,

 

Have you ever experienced a change of finish on areas which were in touch with liquid mask and how to remedy it?

 

I've applied Ammo liquid mask on Gunze H (Mr Hobby Aqueous) and the parts which were in contact with the liquid mask have now a strange sheen, as if they have been gloss coated. The issue being that the areas which were under the white-tack do not have that sheen and I have a very weird contrast going on.

 

Any ideas?

 

spacer.png

 

Posted

BTW, for what masking application do you want to use making fluid for? In 99 times out of 100 I have found either masking tape or blu tac as the most appropriate masking solution.
regards Toby

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/27/2022 at 7:29 AM, Planebuilder62 said:

BTW, for what masking application do you want to use making fluid for? In 99 times out of 100 I have found either masking tape or blu tac as the most appropriate masking solution.
regards Toby

Sorry for the belated answer, the notification didn’t come in for some reason.

I used masking liquid to fill in the gap between white tack rolls while masking a camouflage. The paint underneath is Gunze Aqueous.

Posted
On 11/24/2022 at 3:51 PM, cpoud117 said:

Hey guys,

 

Have you ever experienced a change of finish on areas which were in touch with liquid mask and how to remedy it?

 

I've applied Ammo liquid mask on Gunze H (Mr Hobby Aqueous) and the parts which were in contact with the liquid mask have now a strange sheen, as if they have been gloss coated. The issue being that the areas which were under the white-tack do not have that sheen and I have a very weird contrast going on.

 

Any ideas?

 

 

 

This masking fluid is one of those I discarded just after smelling the content. I just can repeat what I said above.

Whatever the producers say, if a masking medium even faintly smells of ammonia, avoid contact with painted areas. Maybe it won't hurt one or another type/brand of paint but - as a general rule - water and alcohol based paints don't like ammonia.

There should be enough masking methods and ammonia free media mentioned here (correcting fluid, masking tape, blu-tak, ammonia free masking "pens" .....) for you to choose from.

 

I hope it helps you for your next builds.

Regards.

Pat

Posted

Yeah, I think I’ll keep for canopies only for now on. Straight on plastic should be no issues.

Posted

I can recommend Ammo liquid mask. Over the years, I've used many different masking fluids, from maskol to graphigum, but was never completely satisfied. Of all I tried, Ammo stuff is definitely the best. Never had a problem with it so far, and it's easy to use. However, every time I do use it, I make sure the paint below had a couple of days to cure, and I never leave it on for a long time. A week to a month is my maximum, I never leave it on for more than that. Use these simple percautions and you won't have a problem

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 10/2/2022 at 9:36 PM, bazzacourt said:

I'll stear clear thanks 

There are 2 different Mr Hobby liquid mask products Mr Sol R (which I use and have never had any issues with) and Mr Sol Neo which contains ammonia and I believe can attack acrylics. The bottle shown I think may be an older or imported Mr Sol Neo as that has an orange label and cap while the Sol R is turquoise/blue .

mr Sol R is great stuff

Posted

I use copydex as others, but have occasionally noted a slight colour change to those areas.

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