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Planebuilder62

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Everything posted by Planebuilder62

  1. Good luck Loren. I bought a 1/72 Tamiya X-1, Academy B-29, Metallic details engine set and I found a set of decals for the B-29, and then chickened out and just built the B-29 nearly out of the box. Good luck Regards Toby
  2. Hi there My Redroo conversion parts arrived in the mail today, the parts look great and I can’t wait to get stuck into my Catalina now. Thanks Ed regards Toby
  3. To resurect this thread, what is the right orange/red is best for James Hunt’s M23 from 1976? regards Toby
  4. Hi there I wonder if it was normal practice for German U-boats to keep their antenna’s for aircraft detection to be fully retracted into the conning tower when they were submerged? Would that also be the same for the pericopes when they were not being used. I guess the schorkel was extended when charging the batteries when submerged and taken down when the U- boat was surfaced. What do you think? Regards Toby
  5. Hi Marcello Have you had a look at the new Phantom stencil decals and very detailed instructions from Jennings Helig/Fundekals? The answer might be found there. Regards Toby
  6. Hi there White Ensign used to make a US catapult launcher in 1/72 in brass PE, I bought one in Telford a few years back and its sitting on the shelf at home waiting to be built by someone. regards Toby
  7. Dear John Have fun with the Chinook. How did the Osprey canopy fit by theway? regards Toby
  8. Hi there Which shade of blue did you use for the bodywork? regards Toby
  9. Hi there I have an Academy 1/72 Catalina with real rubber tyres for the beaching wheels. I would like to replace these with plastic or resin ones, they scale out at 30’’ outside diameter for the tyres and 18’’ outside diameter for the hubs. Any suggestions? regards Toby
  10. And now the Redroo parts are on sale, mine have been ordered already regards Toby
  11. Daco Red fixes all decal problems as long as it does not dissolve the decal first. @PattheCat has some good advice as well. regards Toby
  12. Dear MD Looking good. A thin plastic card shim inside the rear fuselage opening will spread that area out to avoid the step with the exhausts, but you probably know that already. Regards Toby
  13. Ho hum. I am very happy with my copy of the book as it has all the races and all the planes well described, pictured and drawn. regards Toby
  14. Hi Brandy How is this going? regards Toby
  15. Hi there Have you tried using Blu tak to hold things in place to check the fit? Works for me every time. regards Toby
  16. Hi there Old Man What were the other 2 Yellow Wing kits? regards Toby
  17. Dear S The front pair of engine nozzles were painted the same colour as the airframe on the FRS 1 Sea Harriers, just so you know. regards Toby
  18. Dear John Looking at other builds of this kit, the canopy looks narrower than the fuselage. To avoid a step on both sides, maybe sanding the fuselage joining faces to reduce the fuselage width is the way to go? regards Toby
  19. I agree with Malc2. I have the book and I think its great. To be honest I did not even notice the short comings pointed out above even thogh I have read the book several times. I think the content is brilliant, I can thoroughly recommend it. regards Toby
  20. Hello there Bish Any new progress on this great build? regards Toby?
  21. When using hi shine NMF like Alclad chome I paint the NMF backwards. This means mask different panels in the non- chrome shades avoiding putting the masking tape over these panels. I have found Alclad comes off quite easily when applied over a Tamiya gloss black base. If you do need to mask over these panels then damp 70 gr white printer paper works very well. You need to be quick with the masks because they fall off as they dry out. When all thats done, mist over the chrome in thin layers. If it goes on too thick it will cause the underneath layers to crack. My NF-104 build in the WIP some time back has some pictures. regards Toby
  22. How about Kristal Klear for filling in the canopy hole? regards Toby
  23. Well done, how did you make the vortex generators on the nose? regards Toby
  24. I have learned a lot with NMF shiny finishes when I built my NF-104 a couple of years ago on BM. I suggest that you polish off the NMF with Micromesh back to black. How to go forwards is a bit counter intuitive. Start by masking the smaller panels with s lightly different shade of NMF. When that is done mist over the plane with the shiny coat. As this will be going over black and NMF, you will get a tonal difference. Light coats are best as shiny NMF paint is often very’hot’ and will create cracks or melt the layer underneath. Shiny NMF coats often do not like to be handled so get the undercarriage on before you start. Ideally, after the shiny NMF coat all you have is decalling. Avoid touching the plane as much as possible, white cotton gloves are handy. regards Toby
  25. Have you tried googling Operation Bolo where ECM pods were hung off one of the outer pylons on the Phantoms? regards Toby
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