Planebuilder62

Just like waiting for a bus. Nothing happens for ages and then 2 come at once.😉

Well done Roland. So the shiny NMF looks good, the black needs an even high shine overall. Or you could test out the finish under one of the wings. Regards Toby

Hi @IanC I am puzzled how you painted the tracks with the wheels on, can you help? I normally build planes so the tank assembly and painting sequence is a mystery to me. Regards Toby

That is a shiny Lightning, well done. Could you expand on your NMF sequence of shades and masking? Regards Toby

Have you tried a primer before the red?

Look out for the fit between the engine inlets/wing and canopy. Some adjustment is neededso all the parts go together right. Regards Toby

Hi @helios16v Just so you know nearly every kit manufacturer seems to get the proportions wrong for the Norwegian roundels, just as well Vingtor make a set in both 1/48 and 1/72. They also have Norwegian codes for F-86’s, maybe @Vingtor could advise if they will suit the Starfighter? Regards Toby

Hi Rob @Zephyr91 The back top edge of the canopy stands proud of the fuselage and it needs rubbing down to avoid a step. BTW , have you seen this ? Maybe the main u/c legs need shortening to give the right stance on the ground. Regards Toby

I have stopped using Alclad Gloss black for my Alclad builds. Tamiya laquer fram a spray can dries quickly with a super gloss finish and with no Alclad reaction unless you spray tha Alclad too soon after the black, or Alclad too thickly. Regards Toby

Tamiya gloss black either in the LP range or spray can is what I use. I suggest rubbing back your black starting with 1200 grade wet and dry and then moving over to Micromesh. The roughness of the matt black needs to be removed. Plan B could be to paint the B-29 in Olive Drab like the very early ones.

Hi @Roland Pulfrew Here are some more Alclad tips from an earlier build of mine Regards Toby

Hi @Roland Pulfrew Did you know that to get a shiny Alclad finish, the black primer should be gloss? @SaminCam’s recent B-24 build gives plenty of advice, and there is a B-26 build on the Twin engine GB with some tips as well. Regards Toby

Hi @Stefan Buysse Fid you know that @Vingtor are going to release a new Nowegian F-5 decal set at the end of this month? More info can be found on his FB page. Regards Toby

Hi James @81-er Here is a link to my Heinkel with the 2 masking sets Regards Toby

Hi James I found with poorly fitting canopies on an Italeri He-111, 2 Eduard masking sets come in handy. Set 1 gets applied after the canopies are glued on and then the RLM 66 sprayed on. This shows up all the gaps. Apply filler and rub down. This might remove some masks and then the canopy needs polishing to remove the scratches. This is where set 2 comes in. Apply this, round 2 with RLM 66 and then on to the rest painting. This provides seamless conpies that look like the individual windows look exactly like that instead of being a set of openings on a large transperncy. Regards Toby

Whats not to love with that bright yellow pair of wings.😊 Well done Dermot and I am glad to see the decals put to use.👍 Regards Toby

Drawdecal make a set of window decals if you fill in all the window openings.

Sorry @Giorgio N My bad for skipping ove your info. Regards Toby

Thanks Smudge. Does your Harrier have the 2 rows of blow-in doors moulded on to the air intake external surface like the instructions suggest? Regards Toby

Have you thought of using a pink undercoat before the yellow there John? Regards Toby

Hi its me again. Does anyone have a good side elevaton drawing of the Tropical carburettor intakes? I plan to scratchbuild my own. Regards Toby

Excellent build CJ, Ihope to be able to build ship models as well as you have. Regards Toby

Bump

Hi there My LHS has a Fujimi 917 in the Martini livery and tail fins that won Le Mans in 1971.I would like to build Gulf 917 No 20 without the fins, is is just a materr of filling the slots in the rear bodywork to fix it? Is there a good source for the No 20 decals? Regards Toby

Hi Dermot As a last resort filling up the nose wheel well with lead should do the trick to stand on its nose wheel. Regards Toby