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Everything posted by Planebuilder62

  1. Dear Heather Nice job with the rigging. No need to scratch build your own biplane assembly jig, Modelling tools have them in stock. regards Toby
  2. Dear Heather Sorry to the the walrus in bits. How about cutting off the 3 remaing struts that go between the nacelle and top wing, use more or your wonderful Lego construction to make jig to align the top wing and then put in the struts between the upper and lower wings using tube glue? When is good and solid, turn the plane upside down and put the strus in between the nacelle and top wing, adjusting the strut length to match the holes at each end. I think your building skills are exemplory. regards Toby
  3. Dear Dean Glue a strip of white plastic card on the fuselage inside, then fill the window openings from the outside with white filler. Drawdecal make a window set for this kit. From experience, only use white filler on this kit, amything else needs a lot of white primer to cover the filler. Aiwaves I think make resin wheels. regards Toby
  4. Hi Well for me, seeing as its underneath the plane I can’t see it. Out of sight, out of mind so I didn’t make the correction pointed out here. Happy modelling, build what yoy want, how you want. Regards Toby
  5. Hi Dermo My linking skils are not good but filter for’Nowegian’ in the RFI section and my Sea King will be esy to find. regards Toby
  6. Dear Dean If you search in the RFI section there are some more pictures of my build and the 19 point list of fixes. regards Toby
  7. Dear Richard With a little practice on a scrap section an old decals you will pick up the trick of freehand painting and correcting. Mistakes are easily corrected. I agree masking will pull off the decals. Give it a try, you will be surprised. regards Toby
  8. Hi Richard Instead of using the new code decals have you thought of using the kit decals and painting the letters black with a fine brush? Mistakes are esy to correct with some of your favourite brush cleaning fluid. regards Toby
  9. Best to do a test with the Fujimi decals, my experience is that they do not release from the backing paper when they are old. Regards Toby
  10. Dear HP As the panel lines are very deep I found it difficult to get the large decals on without silvering, evenover a gloss coat and Daco Red decal setting solution. I suggest a round of filler to reduce the the panel ine depth. regards Toby
  11. Dear HP The same thing happened to me with the windows. The trick is to find a way of pushing the window back in place. What I did was drill a small 0.5mm hole through the fuselage on the opposite side and pushed a bit of stiff wire though the hole to pish the window into place. The window surround decal will hide any glue marks and the hole can be easily filled after the window is in place. Regards Toby
  12. Sorry, I get the same log in request. Have you tried using Village photo’s? It works easy for me. Regards Toby
  13. Hi there Progress has been taking place slowly overvthe last few weeks. Following @perdu’s example the main rotor head has been busied up with counter weights and linkages. Thanks to @JagRiggerthe rotor droop at the droop stops has been incorporated here as well. And here with a coat of paint: Using the Airfix Magazine as reference the main rotor blades were painted with Light Grey upper surfaces and black undersides. In addition each blade tip was painted the appropriate clour with a yellow stripe. The back end of the egine looked a bit empty so a disc brake was scratch built from round plastic discs. An oil pump of the port side main engine deck was also scratch built. The cockpit has been filled up as well. The missile contoller was added to the co-pilots seat and a control box at his feet. The torpdo launch contol was added to the instrument panel. The fuselage top edges were very wobbly and getting the vac-form canopy edges the fit on both sides was difficult so a couple of spreader bars were fitted across the top of the fuselage to stiffen it up. These were painted black afterwards before the roof/ winscreen/ rear window caopy went on. This is how it looked before the roof went on. regards Toby
  14. Hi there I would like to insert links to other posts I am made on BM but I use an ipad that does not want to display URL’s. Can anyone help? regards Toby
  15. Dear Ron Have you tried using conventional black gloss primer and Alclad Polished Aluminium for the wings? It worked a treat on my NF-104A last year in the planes RFI here on BM. Regards Toby
  16. Hi there I have uploaded some pictures of my Freidland build over on the Figures RFI section. Sorry, not good at pasting links on my ipad yet here on BM. regards Toby
  17. Hi there Here are some pictures of the small group of figures that were shown in the WIP section 2 years ago. There figures were grouped closely together on a small specially made base to draw the eye to the cannon muzzle where the action is happening after reading Shep Paine’s book about making diaramas. To animate the figures some surgery was required to the arms, legs and heads and some spare part torso’s were used. The cannon woodwork was apinted using Humbrol Authentic French Artilery Green and the barrel with Alclad brass and bronze. The figures were painted using the Vallajo acrylic Napoleonic set. And here are some close ups. At the muzzle we can see the the new shot being carried forward to the gunner positioned to take the shot ready for loading, while the third gunner is ready with the ramrod. At the breech end of the cannon one gunner has his thumb over the vent hole to prevent unburnt powder from igniting. On the opposite side is the gunner with the match keeping out of the way until the loading is complete. Also present is another gunner with the primer tube to be inserted once the shot is rammed home. A drummer is present to help keep time and 2 Voltigeurs stand by to re-position the cannon after firing. I was fortunate enough to collect a Commended award at the 2019 SMW at Telford for this. Regards Toby
  18. Hi there I tried to build one of these a few years ago but gave up when trying to get the engine/struts/top wing together. As moulded the 4 short struts from the engine to the top wing throw everything out of alignment. Good luck Regards Toby
  19. Hi Rob The torso’s with the brown buttons were from a converters set and you are right, they were not int the original kit. The brown buttons were scratch made by melting the end of some small diameter plastic rod. The lapels also needed to be carved out and holes for the buttons drilled. Hmm, must post some pictures of the conpleted build. Regards Toby
  20. Oops Rob The build started in the figures WIP section. regards Toby
  21. Well done so far Rob. A few years back I posted up my progress with the Historex Friedland set over on the Diarama secrion here on BM. The normal Historex figures are quite stiff in their poses, do you have any plans to loosen them up? Regards Toby
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