Jump to content

Mark Harmsworth

Gold Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mark Harmsworth

  1. One of the links in my earlier post was for an SD 2: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/KORCSD7285?result-token=MRB94
  2. That's slightly difficult to answer as you haven't said which kit, or which version of the two planes, but one of those Hannants links is for a gun pod and one is a bomb rack. Maybe not what you are looking for I guess.
  3. I may have misunderstood your question but a search at Hannants for 109 accessories gives a list of options. I assume there would be a similar list for the 190 but I haven't looked. A selection of some of the armament sets for the 109: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/MR72-009?result-token=MRB94 https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/QB72389?result-token=MRB94 https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/QB72659?result-token=MRB94 https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/CMK7457?result-token=MRB94 https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/KORCSD7285?result-token=MRB94
  4. Try masking tape cut into little squares and painted red. Mark
  5. Oh that's a real tease. Can you give us a bit more? I'm slightly fascinated about this interest in a P-51 nose. Mark
  6. A nice solid metal (brass?) rod - for strength - drilled into the grey styrene and attached to the resin with ca glue at both ends. Or were you looking for something more sophisticated? Mark
  7. The benefit of a gloss primer is that it should result in a smoother metallic finish than a matt one. Also I (strongly) suggest using Vallejo Metal Color rather than their Model Air Acrylic range which also has metallic paints - I only point that out as others have mentioned it on posts here. I should say that I haven't used Model Air metallics myself so can't back that up with first hand experience although I am very pleased with the Metal Color range. Mark
  8. Welcome. This is a friendly place - I'm sure you'll be very happy here. These? https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/MR48-026?result-token=h5UmY
  9. The answer(s) to your question would really depend on what type of paint you use. If acrylics then I can recommend Vallejo Metal Color over a gloss black primer. In any event it's not that difficult but I would say that preparing the plastic is the most important step as any metallic finish will be very unforgiving and show every scratch and blemish. Lots of sanding and polishing pays huge dividends. Mark
  10. A suggestion - if you post this here you may get some useful responses: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/381-vehicle-discussion/ Mark
  11. I can't comment on your metallic paints as I use Vallejo Metal Color (which I can definitely recommend) but I would say that two very important steps in the process of achieving a good metallic finish are first preparing the plastic so it is as smooth as possible (metallic paints show every little scratch) and then applying a primer - I use gloss black as a primer for metallic finishes which I think looks great. Mark
  12. I found this useful: https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/painting-skin-face-basic-level-sbs.124485/ Mark
  13. Option three: grey. But I will use black primer for the undersurfaces of bombers (like the Lancaster I'm currently building). black gloss primer for metallics and white primer for yellow spinners etc. But mostly grey. And I never pre shade. Mark
  14. Wonderful thing to do. Are you planning to do a plane that he flew in? Another thumbs up from me for xtradecal for ease of use. Mark
  15. Well, the answer really depends on your definition of a reasonable price, but I have three glass fronted cabinets with glass shelves from ikea. There's just enough depth on the shelves for a 1:72 scale four engined bomber. Haven't hung any planes from the ceiling since I was a lad - some time ago in a different century Mark
  16. I have this site in my list of references: http://www.hrmtech.com/SIG/coastal_cam.asp
  17. Yes - isopropanol alcohol (IPA) applied with a cotton bud although I worry about the p.e. If those bits are tiny you'll have to be just a bit careful with the cotton bud not to bend them out of shape. Mark PS Didn't know that about dettol - although personally I think I'll stick with IPA as dettol does stink a bit
  18. I don't know this make but I think there should be a valve to release unwanted air pressure. Looking at an image on amazon it may be under the transparent bottle thingy. There's lots of answers in the q&a section which may help. Here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-Fengda-FD-186K-compressor-accessories/dp/B01984G4SU/ref=sr_1_1?adgrpid=1294125501959071&hvadid=80882920244908&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=133673&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-80883024880903%3Aloc-188&keywords=fengda+fd-186&qid=1641931668&sr=8-1
  19. Preparing the plastic before applying paint is key. Particularly if using metallic paints as they show every little flaw in the plastic. So plenty of sanding/polishing when the build is finished is important. Cleaning the plastic is also key - there's various methods and I use isopropanol alcohol on a cotton bud which will remove almost everything down to the bare plastic. If you've done the sanding/polishing bit first then you'll have a lovely surface ready for priming. Never done any buffing between coats - not even for metallics - so can't comment on that. Mark
  20. The Italeri kit is also available from Revell and the Heller kit seems to have been reboxed by Kovozavody Prostejov. Plenty of aftermarket decals for variation : https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php?adv=1&product_category_id=&product_division_id=&manufacturer_id=&product_type_id=all_decals&code=&scale_id=956&keyword_search=Ju-52&setPerPage=25&sort=0&search_direction=0&save_search_name=&save_search=
  21. Yes - they end in different positions towards the wing tips. The image of the BBMF Lancaster shows similar markings to that shown on the IWM image. I think I'll probably be going for a 'good enough' approach.
  22. Thanks @SafetyDad- that's very helpful. Hasegawa's decals are completely different to that of course. The two moderately useful images I've found also have the single line from fuselage to inner engine and then a double from the inner engine outwards - although where those double lines end seems to vary. The rearmost lines seem to mirror the forward lines. Hasegawa has all the lines being continuous which may be the case on these two images but it's difficult to be sure - although definitely not the case on yours. Images of Lancasters from above are a rarity - not surprisingly of course. This from the IWM: And this from World War Photos:
  23. Yes, my assumption about the lack of teeth would be that they disappeared during the repairs post 20th November. Great video - hadn't seen that before. thanks Mark
  24. Are there any good images of the walkway markings on a Lancaster III (I assume the Mk I would be the same) ? I'm building the Hasegawa 1:72 Lanc and have decided to paint the walkway markings rather than use the kit decals - I hate long thin decals. I've done some research on this and have a few images but none are particularly clear. I'm reluctant to rely solely on the kit instructions. I'm building a Mk III which was delivered in January 1944 if that's relevant. thanks Mark
  • Create New...