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Mark Harmsworth

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Everything posted by Mark Harmsworth

  1. Yes. Kingkit shows 17 1:24 pre-owned kits for sale. I think these are all in stock. https://www.kingkit.co.uk/shop.php?search=kitfinder&search_term=&brand=25&cat=26&scale=1^24
  2. A slight pause as my little room got too warm to work comfortably for a couple of days. Progress has being made though. First I dealt with the fuselage roof between the main cabin and the turret. That had so far resisted my attempts for a good join. So I did this: Which worked perfectly. Except in straightening the roof I had changed the shape of the window opening on the far side. And the window fell out. Of course the window no longer matched the shape of the opening. Some fiddling and fettling later I had it back in place secured with a couple of drops of ca glue on the inside. That's been the way on this build. One task done unexpectedly creates another. The passing of a couple of days had also given me time to sort out how to deal with the ill-fitting resin roof framework. I had a go with some styrene rod and got to this: It won't pass a close inspection but after I've attached the canopy it won't get one (!!). A view through the fuselage windows will look fine I think. After some paint: Next, getting to the wings. The attachment points for the undercarriage are in: This also shows the quite huge pour stubs (is that what they are?) inside the wings. After some careful test fitting most of them are harmless (maybe that's 'mostly harmless' - silly hitchhikers' guide reference there). Although I did have to carve off the outer ones as they were definitely in the way. Then some clamps. The fit is pretty good with only a modest amount of seam clean-up required. I like to play safe with the leading edge and so used Mr Surfacer 1200 to make a clean join. Next some careful sanding and polishing. I removed the undercarriage supports from their resin casting blocks. These should look good with some paint. The main wheels are two piece items in styrene. I do think Special Hobby could have done these in resin - which is probably why I have a picture of them Wheels aren't that interesting are they? No locating tabs of course so you have to be careful to get the two halves lined up. More sanding and polishing needed. I removed the engine cylinders from the casting blocks. There are four sets of four which means there are two spare. And that was useful as after painting one of them went zinging across the desk. It hit something but no idea what. Never mind - fifteen was plenty. Painting: And built: There's a nice piece of p.e. on the front of each engine block. Looking at that photo now one of the cylinders on the left hand engine isn't located properly and needs a good shove. Getting close to attaching the fuselage to the wings. Not quite sure whether to attach the canopies before or after that. I've decided to build and install the turret after main painting - lots of resin and transparency to deal with there. That's all for now. Back soon. Mark
  3. Well, it just has to be a Spitfire doesn't it? I'm not too good on 1:72 fighters but Eduard is a good place to start. There's a review here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235007579-spitfire-mkixc-late-version-profipack-172-eduard/ Good luck Mark
  4. Hello Chris. I'm sure you'll like it here - it's a very friendly place. If you are unsure about anything just ask. all the best Mark
  5. Thanks Max. Those pictures are very helpful and Special Hobby seems to have done a decent job on that support arm from that first image. I was surprised by how much that upper framework is wrong. I was expecting some slight warping and a bit of tidying up to do. I'll be putting something in there but I may well take your approach thanks again Mark
  6. Minor surgery on the instrument panel to make it shorter and that was ok. Just a few more jobs to get the fuselage buttoned up. First fit the rear-most windows - from the inside. I tend to do that with a couple of drops of ca glue to fix in place and then fill any gaps with pva (white) glue. But of course it couldn't be that simple could it. I'd masked and painted the windows with aircraft grey/green first. Window no. 1 went in fine with that method and window no.2 . . . . . I'd masked one side and painted the other. Oh bother - for that was my reaction. First time I've ever done that. So, remove mask, clean paint off with thinner, drop into a little Kleer, wait overnight, mask and fit. Deal with the interior colour later. Now I'm really ready to join up the fuselage. Which was a bit strange - as after all that really delicate work with resin I now did this: It's a good feeling using a few clamps. The next morning, remove the clamps (hoping it doesn't spring apart) and it looks ok: The main task before I put the canopies on is to attach the roof tubular framing. I had a concern about the warping on that as it was definitely not straight: The furthest part is not lying flat on the mat. Plus a small amount of tidying up to do as it is very rough at the moment. But I needn't have worried about the warping because: It is far too wide. That's not fixable - or at least not within my skill set. That's another 'oh bother' from me. Time to move on to something else and see if my brain comes up with a solution in the meantime. So I had a quick look at the wings, which leads on to thinking about the undercarriage. Instructions: The main legs and wheel halves are styrene (with all that resin in the kit why are the main wheels styrene?) and the monster support strut is resin (PUR6). It looks like the Anson was designed to have really tough landings. Those resin parts are misleading and I think it would be easy to remove too much thinking it was part of the casting block. This is they: After checking references I've decided to remove the purple coloured area. Looking carefully there is some fine detail just above it. That will probably show up with painting. But of course the key question is how the gear legs are attached to the plane. Well, Special Hobby has provided some assistance. No, really. I was moderately pleased to find: On the left part 4 is in the nacelle ready for part 25 - like on the right. To ensure that the legs are straight, and account for the wing's dihedral, part 25 has a groove in the back to attach to part 4 at an angle, Clever. The groove isn't wide enough to take part 4 of course but that's easy to deal with. Then the legs are attached to that little shelf on part 25. I think I'll be looking to strengthen that join - if I can do that satisfactorily I may well install the legs so she can stand up for painting. I'm encouraged by that. At this point I think I know what I'm doing with the undercarriage. That'll come back to bite me I'm sure. Now I just wait for my brain to tell me what I'm doing with the roof framework. Back soon. Mark
  7. I'd almost finishing the rigging on the 1:72 Airfix Tiger Moth - I was modelling the one I had a trip in from Headcorn piloted by Anna Walker - I was 99.998% done when the little plane jumped out of my hand and nose dived onto the floor. There was a very slight noise and the tension in the rigging caused it to fly apart quite dramatically. Parts and rigging scattered across the room. I even had a little me sitting in the passenger seat. It's now sitting in a sad little heap at the back of the bottom shelf. One day. Mark
  8. Paper is a good option for the wings. Draw an outline of the wing and the camo lines on that. Cut out with scissors and stick down with tiny bits of blu-tac. Even cheaper than masking tape and I think quicker for large areas.
  9. A picture would be useful - without that it is difficult to answer your question. However, I'll have a go - it could be insects or rodents attacking the cardboard of the boxes. High humidity or damp could cause the boxes to rot and discolour - mould (or mold) is a fungal growth that could do that. But a picture (or two) would be great. Good luck Mark
  10. Thanks guys. I'd come to the same conclusion about the positioning of the ip. The best place for it is sitting on the floor in front of the pilot's seat rather than attempting to attach it to the inside of the forward canopy as SH suggest. Of course there is also a 'however'. First a rough positioning with it just balancing in place: The panel has built up well and looks good. Sideways on there is a problem though - it is a couple of millimetres too tall and will interfere with the canopy: Some minor surgery required - which will probably result in me breaking off those teeny throttle levers. Again. Onwards Mark
  11. A couple of quiet days but I've been pressing on with the build as well with more work on the interior. Every so often I find myself going back to the instructions and thinking 'surely they don't mean that'. These then are the main parts still to go in the cabin: That's a few seats with p.e. seatbelts attached. I really really don't enjoy bending that stuff to fit. The radio equipment on the desk on the right is nicely detailed (although it looks like a black blob in the pic). And a little pull-down seat. The instrument panel I had another go at a bit later. In the middle at the top is one of the two desks with a piece of the tubular framework attached. That is styrene rod as the kit resin part looked like this: There is some warping elsewhere but this one I had to replace as it fits in the centre of the cabin. One of the simpler jobs. A couple of sessions later and I had this: That looks mostly alright and I was happy. Those desks got me thinking about placing something on them. So I had a bit of fun: The chap at the rear is being diligent and studying photo recon. But elsewhere we have a copy of the Daily Express (broadsheet version of course) and the pilot seems to have been reading a magazine. Not sure what I'll actually have on the desks but I think it would be visible. Those came from this set which I bought to go with my Airfix Control Tower: Signs, noticeboards, squadron photos, maps etc on the left and newspapers, more maps and posters on the right. The detail on these is fantastic. Sankey Scenics do accessories for railway modellers mostly and did this set specifically for the Airfix Control Tower. I had a lot of fun building that and this is just a great excuse to link to it. So: I had another go at the instrument panel as the foot pedals were too long and would sit on the floor. That was my fault as the instructions have you attach them to the back of the panel but I chose to make a couple of holes in the bottom of the panel and stick them in there. So I persuaded them off, trimmed, re-drilled and re-attached. In doing that I had a second look at the four teeny p.e. levers which I'd managed to attach ok (much to my amazement) - two to the throttle quadrant and two to the front of the panel as per the instructions: I had / have my doubts about the positioning of parts PUR11 - they are actually photo-etch not resin so that should be PP11 (can't fool me Special Hobby!). I reckon those are oil and/or fuel pressure gauges on the panel and, if that's right, shouldn't have a lever sticking out of them. So I pulled them off. And had this: My one disappointment is the the instrument dials are largely invisible as they are so faint. So where does the panel go? This is the instruction: Somewhere underneath the forward canopy then. Which, after masking and some Aircraft Grey/Green looks like this: A lovely smooth surface with no indication at all where it should go. And the right way up: And that's as far as I've got. Next some trial and lots of error trying to get that panel in the right place. Which, on reflection, I may leave until I've got the fuselage halves together so that I can see what's going to be in the way (positive thinking there). Back soon all the best Mark
  12. I get my best results with a smooth surface - usually I apply a gloss varnish before the decals. Good luck - and keep asking questions. Mark
  13. Cows kill more humans than sharks I'm surprised that cows kill any sharks at all Definitely a dad joke. Mark
  14. This is worth a read: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-62373143 And the name is Uhura not Uhara - could you correct the title?
  15. Thanks. I like the optimism. I think I'll write "enjoyable struggle" on a piece of card and pin it to the noticeboard beside my desk. Perfect description. Mark
  16. Yes, I got that 'workbench' email from Airfix about their 1:48 Annie on Friday. Looks good. I like the way they have the rear cabin as styrene with transparencies just for the windows. I always struggle with large transparencies where they include fuselage as well as windows - trying to get them to look the same as the surrounding styrene once painted is a bit tricky I find.
  17. Yes definitely - one of those occasions where there isn't really a choice. Some of those 75 or so 'windows' are only about 1mm wide. The design of the turret looks bonkers - I don't know how the gunner could see properly with all the framework. I like a challenge now and then - although I do get a lot of pleasure from a well engineered kit as well - this one though is a true test of patience along with some forensic skills to interpret the instructions. Having said that I'll be honest and say I'm really enjoying it. Which sort of surprises me. Mark
  18. The replacement Eduard masks arrived: I'd checked the stash and decided to also replace the vinyl masks that I had previously got for the Academy B-17 - doing that got me free postage from Hannants. On some planes I've done the masking myself but with this one I couldn't face that job. This is one side of the instructions for the Eduard masks: So a few sessions and 75 masks later I am where I wanted to be: And not one of those masks have peeled off. Thank you Eduard. Time for some paint. I collected all the bits I thought needed Aircraft Grey/Green, got out the airbrush and reached a build milestone: Right then. Now I try to figure out what I'm doing next. Time for a mug of tea and some carrot cake. back soon. Mark
  19. I've had a small bottle for about ten years - it may even have come with my H&S airbrush. I seem to remember it came with some advice about using it if the airbrush was going to be unused for a long time. Not sure that the length of time was defined - but I've never used it. I clean the airbrush thoroughly after each use and that seems to be enough. I use acrylics. That probably doesn't help much does it.
  20. Not a Corsair but this may help a little: This is a photo taken in April 1944 at RAF Lashenden (today Headcorn aerodrome) in Kent. The Lancaster had made an emergency landing a few hours earlier. Lashenden was then home to the 354th Fighter Group. I believe the P-51B in the foreground is having its' guns sighted using the rig by the Lanc. I love some of the detail with the P-51 having the tail raised up and weighed down. Mark
  21. I've not used them but I was pointed in this direction recently: https://www.puffinplastics.co.uk/standard-display-case-cubes-and-bridges
  22. A short update as I'm waiting on the arrival of replacement canopy masks - this time from Eduard. Royal Mail has had them since Monday the 16th. Hopefully tomorrow. The build is in a sort of hiatus as I like to do all the interior painting in one session and I'd really like to get the canopy masks done before I get into that. I have had a bit more time to fiddle with the resin cockpit and I've tidied up the tubular framework as best I can. Gosh is that stuff delicate. And ever so slightly not straight but I think that will largely be hidden under the upper fuselage transparency. So a coat of grey primer : And some work on the instrument panel sandwich - which looked like this: The four main parts attached to each other and a splash of paint: The instrument faces on that 'film' are not that clear and, unless you get really really close, they look like black holes. Next some teeny resin and p.e. pieces to add to that. Probably. @Navy Bird asked if I'd decided on a scheme (my first choice was a non-starter as it was an early Mk I) and finally I have. Unusually for me I'm going for one of the kit schemes - P.O. Peters Mk I from 500 sqn that accounted for two Bf109s on 1st June 1940. Or at least that is how the kit instructions describe it. Being me, I checked the ORBs - which thankfully had more detail. Three Ansons were on a 'Thistle' duty from Detling. I asked about that in the WW2 sub forum and @Selwyn helpfully provided the info that 'Thistle' was the term used for patrolling the Dunkirk evacuation beaches - something new I've learned. The ORB stated that the three Ansons, patrolling at 50 feet above the sea, were attacked by nine Bf109s. Pilot Officer Peters shot down one of the 109s with his gunner seriously damaging two others. Two of the 109s dived into the sea. The two other Ansons landed unscathed at Manston. As a result of this P.O Peters was awarded the DFC six days later. I should think so. That action just sounds incredible to me (nine 109s vs three Ansons!). I just have to do that scheme. That's it for the moment Mark (patiently waiting for the postman)
  23. Splendid idea. I wouldn't have space in 1:144 for something like that. Do you have a 'Lancaster diorama' room ? Unfortunately you're not the first to post that all the transparencies weren't delivered intact. From other comments I think that's a packaging problem. Good luck with replacing yours. Mark
  24. Thanks a lot. That first image is great. I think the splendid hats are worth a mention too. Mark
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