Cheshiretaurus

White spirit or Mr levelling thinner works ok,

Airfix P51D new tool kit built OOB to go with my previous P51 build - Drop tanks in this kit do not have the characteristic seam line so the were made from 0.3mm Plastruct square rod. - One tank corrected so both have the filling point on the left. - 0.3mm round rod used as the actuator in the radiator cooling duct. - Tamiya tape harness. - Arial in the kit was so badly moulded it was replace with one made with plastic strip. - Upper engine access panel centre line was scribed with its screws marked in. - Painted in Humbrol enamel with the paint numbers given by the kit except Alclad 106 White aluminium used for the NMF with the shade altered on some panels by mixing it with gloss black enamel. - Flap retraction areas were finished using chrome baremetal foil. - Underwing lights made by adding a little CA into the recess allowing it to set in a concave shape. aluminium foil was then glued into the recess and finished with blob of appropriate Tamiya clear colour. - Decals applied with MicroSol & MicroSet. - Flory Black & grime Washes. - Model was given a coat of Humbrol Gloss Cote prior to decals, washes and oil dot weathering then matted with Humbrol Matt Cote. - Jeep is from the Academy P51 kit enjoy Thanks for looking.

That MDC is the height of perfection. Fingers crossed it will go onto shape. I'd say use brute force and ignorance but non of your work has ever involved that sort of thing. I'm sure you will find the way.

There was somebody demonstrating this technique at Telford last year, Think it was on the Albion Alloys stand. I had a go there and then and it was very easy to do. CT

Teaspoon & mouse-mat.

Taking it to the next level or what, The student has become the master! Just a case now of finding the limit in size you can get down to. A thought did occur to me a few days ago and if you have any darkroom stuff was maybe using 35mm black and white photographic film to photograph a big version of your artwork and scaling it such knowing that a 35mm frame on the negative is 36x24mm could be the way to ultra high definition artworks beyond what an inkjet can do. Just sharing out aloud a random idea that I had. All looking good Steve, keep it up CT

Now that's the business

Excellent and well done Steve. You can now join the BMGoBE Brit Modeller Guild of Brass Etchers PE MDC next ? CT Edited due damn auto correct changing my words.

Success I'll add that to the tutorial when I get chance. And the bonus is we now know how to strip the resist later. May I ask how much the developer was from Maplin? CT

It could be that the dryfilm you have is slightly different than what I used. I'm reading up on some PCB making instructions of using sodium carbonate as a developer and sodium hydroxide as a stripper. Sodium carbonate is avaible on eBay not sure what strength solution to make maybe start with 1%

Could be that the laminator isn't hot enough. Maybe go over it after with the iron afterwards.

Not seen that happen before. I'm sure you will have but have to rule it out. Did you definitely remove one side of the protective film before applying the resist to the brass. I know you removed the other side before developing. Only thing I can think off. Don't think it would afheard to the brass with it still on. Another thing to try is apply some resist to a small off cut. And expose it directly for a min or two without the artwork and see if that peels off in the caustic. If think of anything else I'll put it on here.

CT is now pondering the possible implications of introducing a top lawyer to the use of dodgy chemical in his home....

Ah didnt read the last bit, "I've stuck em to one side out of the light and I'll see how the developing and etching goes tomorrow....." note to self....must start reading in full before posting replies.

That exposure looks spot on, nicely done, If your not going to develop it in the caustic immediately then make sure you keep it in the dark. so far so good, fingers crossed. CT