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Cheshiretaurus

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Everything posted by Cheshiretaurus

  1. After a search through my own ref material I've come across some more stuff From the Warpaint Buccaneer book I've found this on the scale drawings, dragged the scale onto the drawing before uploading Click here for super high res 1200 dpi scan Also a couple more pictures from that photo sortie with XX191 from this extract publication from Air International. Hope these are of some use CT
  2. Ill get them printed probebly this week I think. Just to check, do I have the 1mm & 2mm ports the right way round?
  3. Dont worry about printing costs (unless of course youre building a fleet) Just postage costs, Think your in Illinois? everything sent together should fit in the "large letter" category and if I can keep it below 100g total weight then it would be just £4 or £5.85 upto to 250g 1:48 is just a simple enlargement of 1.5x
  4. Ok I've put those dimension on and this is what I've got, how does this look? Also there seems to be 2 different configurations of the ports, is this the one you want? or the one with a central port, which also seems to be higher too. Mark
  5. Not sure if this is of any use Cobham CBLS 2000 datasheet https://www.cobhammissionsystems.com/weapons-carriage-and-release/air-to-ground-weapons-carriage-and-release-systems/air-to-ground-bomb-racks/cbls-2000-datasheet/ https://www.saairforce.co.za/gallery-and-media/123/cbls-2000
  6. Ah the good old revolve tool. CAD work coming on leaps n bounds, windscreens, pylons, CBLs, wonder what goodies the other 4 drawing of the 7 you have are?
  7. Thanks, I did have that in the stash for a while but non of the figures seemed really suitable, I'm thinking maybe 'MakeHuman' for Blender might be the way to go but its going to be a steep learning curve for me.
  8. Anyone know where I can find these Chaps in 1/72?
  9. Lots of options What might be best at this stage is to draw these sizes as boxes on a piece of paper cut them out and see what size seems to look right against the model.
  10. Well Ive got something that might work At best guess these are the dimensions I've used real world inches (1:72 mm) Length 65 (22.9) Height 12 (4.23) Width 24 (8.47) or 28 (9.88) Stbd opening diameter 8 (2.82) Port opening diameter 6 (2.12) Couldn't really work out the width very well so tried both 24" and 28" But both make the whole thing look too long ( photos could have telephoto lense compression effect) Top left is the 24" version, bottom right 28" This is the 28" version let me know if I should change anything or move/ change diameter of the openings? Mark
  11. If you are able to get the dimensions of some of those items in the picture, I would be able to work out the rest.
  12. Nice simple shape drew this in about 5 mins Obviously what's really needed is dimensions to determine the rest from From this pic its length is 87% of the width of the star & bar 81% of the strake above it 182% of the height of the intake splitter plate Armed with some solid dimensions the rest can be determined, tricky one would be width unless you can get a direct head on pic. also its height is 19% of its length Mark
  13. Contact Airfix https://support.airfix.com/hc/en-gb/articles/4411389855634-Spares-Request with that picture. Quote the numbers on the underside of the box
  14. It will warm up during use so today I wondered what temperature mine was at. Then did a 45min print which came out ok, temp had risen to 25°C Windscreens look great, will you be doing the same with the main canopy?
  15. If its just made up of basic geometric shapes eg cubes/blocks/cylinders/triangles/spheres etc maybe TinkerCAD might be an option its a web based simple CAD program with an in built tutorial and an easy learning curve. Its just a case of dragging a shape onto the workspace squish it into the right dimensions, drag another do the same. Move them around as much as you want. Merge 2 or more into one object move it around etc.
  16. Think you might need to get a heater mate This is Elegoo standard grey resin Also you could be needing a heater in there soon too if the exploratory without prejudice conversation goes a bit wrong.
  17. I'm interpreting this as plea for someone to say "GET IT BOUGHT ALREADY" you know you want to! Here's a lovely one! meets your needs perfectly https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEGOO-Photocuring-Off-line-Printing-Size-Black/dp/B07KRWVHSV Oooh suits you sir! I'll sit back now and get the popcorn and watch Fritag become the 3D printing master as did with casting and etching CT
  18. That canopy is from a Matchbox Piston Provost kit Nice work, I have that Airfix Magister kit on the go at moment, Irish AF version. CT
  19. That texture on the cab looks like the texture of the layer of Vaseline I think. I've found I never need any mould release unless I'm making a 2 part mould and need to create a barrier between the 2 parts but that just in the mould making process. Lego have a 'pick a brick' service so you can get exactly what you need instead of buying a set. https://www.lego.com/en-gb/page/static/pick-a-brick
  20. How to get the tail back on centrally When I chopped it off I didn't have a plan of how to get it back on. yes bold move! Another jig needed, rough mental plan was to have the rear fuselage taper fit in to a corresponding taper in the jig with a fork above the taper for the tail to fit into. Then I realised I could use Lego at right angles to get everything central with the jig sliding into place guided between two Lego 'rails' Pictures are a good way to explain things This took about 40 min last night to draw out Its 16mm wide as that is the distance of a double gap in Lego. The print took 5hours overnight to make as it is 45mm long and was printed vertically. Theory is that as the jig is slid into place pushing the wings into the Lego wall the taper will centralise everything into place. Then just slot the tail on top and wait for the CA to set. Then I knocked one of the horizontal tails off, duh! They can go back on later. CT
  21. After a bit of research (googling photos) and reading manuals, there is no evidence of the tail being off set. This picture from the Edinburgh Science and Technology museum shows it being nice and central Its only slightly off on the model but looking from above now that the horizontal tail is on it is quite noticeable. So this evening I have unceremoniously lopped off the tail! Ive drawn the centre line back in then I'll put the tail back on in the right place, once Ive lined the bottom of the tail with some 0.5mm plasticard to replace the material lost in the cutting. Enough for tonight CT
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