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Everything posted by malpaso

  1. I think it's fine, if very metalliccy looking, as the metal flakes show - when I paint it anyway! Actually painting it seems no different to any other Tamiya. But... It (or any other metallic) are always planned as the last in a session as a proper strip and clean of the airbrush is required or the next few colours will be metallic too... Don't ask how I know this. Cheers Will
  2. Very nicely built model. A convincing degree of weathering too. It's a pity the decal designer didn't actually check the same picture as you though, the shapes of the letters in the codes, particularly the B, are quite different! Cheers Will
  3. Very nice build of an important aircraft. Thank you for sharing your model.
  4. Hi Freecloud, I’ve occasionally had the decal setting solution affect the paint under a couple of coats of Klear ( one coat doesn’t get it glossy enough for decals for me). I’ve just left it all a couple of days to dry out and then, to date, another coat of Klear solved the problem and no one’s any the wiser! No idea why this works though... Cheers Will
  5. Wow, well done. I built this kit for a build-in-a-day competition and it was a real fight from the instructions (for a different Mig19 kit?), through the lack of location for undercarriage and stores (so built wheels up) to the non-adhesive decals ( fixed with Klear)! Your model looks so much better. Cheers Will
  6. I successfully brush painted the disruptive camo on a lanc using Tamiya. It was heavily thinned with windscreen wash (easier to get than X-20A) with a smidge of Windsor & Newton Flow Improver ( probably similar to the Tamiya product above but widely available in art shops or some WHS). The thinning means several coats but overall the finish was comparable to the sprayed areas, gave a sharp demarcation and avoided having to do marking. HTH Cheers Will
  7. I use Tamiya paints but a 50/50 mix of their XF-71 Cockpit Green with XF-21 Sky seems to give a nicer brighter colour that seems to match the descriptions of early Supermarine interiors - to me anyway. Straight XF-71 is what I use for later Spitfires. Cheers Will
  8. Since coming back to modelling, I've only built aircraft (and some buildings for my modelrailroad). Back in the day I really enjoyed building cars as well, including some of the old MPC and more left field Japanese kits that were around then - well anything was better than Airfix whose only interesting "modern" car kits were the Mini and Lotus Cortina, their vintage ones were surpassed by Matchbox too. This is the Aoshima Mazdaspeed Roadster, which I received as a Christmas present. It's the NB Mk.2 Mazda Roadster / MX-5 / Miata (depending on market) fitted with Mazdaspeed bodykit, buckets and roll bar. I'm not entirely convinced about the headlight finishers or these wheels. It is not a model of the full-size Mazdaspeed limited edition, which was blue with gold wheels and the only factory turbo to date. The standard Mk.2 kit seems to be available from UK importers again as Aoshima have repopped it. The kit was very easy to build. The kit fits together easily having been well-designed and moulded, almost if not quite Tamiya quality. As always with cars itself about the paint job. This one has grey primer, 2x white primer, 2x matt red and 4-5x gloss red. Primers were Halfords cans and airbrushed reds by Tamiya. I rubbed down between each coat. For some reason I can't get on with airbrushing gloss varnish so the shine is 4-5 coats of brushed Klear. I enjoyed building the kit, and I'll be doing some more cars as there are a few in the stash. Cheers Will
  9. If South Africa had Ju86s then why not a QANTAS Qondor? Looks very nice, and very believable colour scheme. Cheers Will
  10. I have a Revell GB "Catalogue 1960-1961". Each Revell logo has "Manufactured in Great Britain". Some kits I've never heard of and some still going like the Dr.I Triplane! Did Revell actually make kits for the Rover 3 Litre or Ford Consul De-luxe? The only address is where it says "Published by Revell (Great Britain) Ltd., Maidstone House, 25-27 Berners Street, London W.1." That's in the heart of the West End and the old building (it's recently been redeveloped) looks like the sort of place many companies would have been based in. Presumably the manufacture was elsewhere, if not already at Potters Bar? Manufacture in the UK was pretty much essential back in those days of exchange control, I assume less US dollars leaving the country for mould loan(?) and licensing, than would have been needed for importing entire kits. Thus Revell could compete in UK market for the pocket money market with Airfix and Frog. Cheers Will
  11. Thanks! I love to see these sort of photos showing the construction details - even if my modelling standard won't ever need such refinement of info for building... Cheers Will
  12. My memory of reading this model T book is of photos of hundreds of British Army T Ambulances! Built in Manchester. http://www.modeltbook.co.uk/chapter-by-chapter.html These ones are a different body to the kit above, I think actually by Ford UK whereas most other makes of ambulance would be a coachbuilder on chassis such as RR. There was a very nice real or recreation of a T-ambulance at a recent local agricultural show. Cheers Will
  13. Meths will clean off Tamiya paint. Just gently rub a soaked sheet of kitchen roll over the surface. If airbrushed on it won’t take much effort to remove. Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner removes most paints without damaging plastic in my experience. Wear gloves! I’d avoid sanding, especially if there’s raised details!
  14. I use same airbrush. Try lubricating the air valve, and or cleaning out the tiny o-ring buried in the body - when you think you've completely stripped it look down the barrel from the rear and you will see a gland cover with screwdriver recess. I've only had to clean the o-ring once in three years, but the air-valve several times, usually if the paint thinning mix has gone wrong and seems to end up back there somehow. I also push the needle out the front rather than back, as it seems odd to pull the dirty needle back through hard to clean places, though that's the standard AB cleaning advice. Cheers Will
  15. Thanks for all the compliments. Paints are all Tamiya thinned with windscreen wash. Masking is my usual blu-tak sausages (technically its Poundland white-tack on this occasion). In the past I've infilled between the sausages with Copydex latex adhesive, but sometimes that's given a slight colour reaction particularly on the grey underside, so this time I used masking tape, a right old mix of 3M, hardware store, Tamiya and tamiya-like-copy! I always wash the kit before starting, some say its unnecessary but i suppose its a sort of Zen process taking me back to the glory days of Airfix and Matchbox, the latters kits in particular objected to paint back in the day (for me). I would point out that masking tape doesn't pull off earlier paint as others sometimes find so maybe there is method in the madness. Primed first with Halfords grey and finished with two brushed coats of Klear, decalled then a final coat of Klear. I've tried airbrushing Klear (bought from local supermarket at least 5 years ago, two thirds of the bottle left!), but found it hard to get it on evenly without runs. Brushing is much more successful, especially as it dries in an hour or so sufficiently to turn over and do the underside. When I do a matt or satin finish I would airbrush on a couple of coats of Galleria varnishes. While they both give good finish, the Matt particularly has an air of tackiness for several days before I feel confident to handle the model safely. Hope these notes help. This is one of the best airbrush jobs I've done and it's been at least three years getting to this sort of finish standard. Practice is the main thing, and experimenting to get the thinning right! Cheers Will
  16. Well, last year was a bit of a disappointment from the modelling completions point of view. One! I ask you, was I really even trying? There were several other models started but none reached completion in the calendar year. However I did buy the new Airfix Mark XIV a couple of its weeks after it came out, and built it within a month or so. I just didn't get around to photographing the plane before. Its come out very nicely, a sensible prop (which works) and robust undercarriage mountings, nice decals with just a reasonable number of stencils, and no real complexity. It was well received in the club and got a couple of certificates. Once I'd glossed over the decals, I decided I rather liked the glossy warbird look, so I chose not to satin varnish. I'd have a couple of criticisms about the kit, though I'd happily build another, if only I didn't have so many Spits waiting in the queue / stash! The trailing edges are rather thick as two edges meet; the fuel tank armour - to scale it would be only need a thin layer of tape to achieve at 1/48, I found it hard to get the part to fit consistently with even overlap and there are also gaps which i used some sheet card to fill. The exhausts seem too thick to fit under the cowling blisters afterwards, if set into the fuselage correctly (as per instructions) - its support needs a lot of trimming to fit (this is a similar problem I have had with Eduard VIII, IX and XVI, as its easy to pop the top cowling off those too when adding the exhausts). Cheers Will
  17. That E-Type photo makes it look like they used the roadster screen instead of the taller coupe one? Personally I prefer the coupe, as I think it's better balanced visually. I must be a bit unusual in thinking that, in the past classic car market-bubbles coupes would be chopped back to roadsters as the open types made more money, now i think originality is more important.
  18. I seem to recall getting a teeny-tiny Clipper plastic kit in my cereal back in the day?
  19. The definitive filmic version is the one by The Muppets. It manages to combine both comedy and the really darker parts of the story very effectively. It really is a tour de force by Michael Caine, demonstrating what a superb actor he is.
  20. I usually use Galleria Matt on warplanes, but have done some post-war ones with Galleria satin which gives a nice finish too. To be honest my last was the Airfix 14 and I left it in the Future gloss used to seal the decals, and I rather liked the shiny warbird look!
  21. Hi, nice build of the Escort. Those big-arched rally Escorts always looked the business, although I was weaned on Minis as a driver! May I ask how you achieved the thin chrome / aluminium accent strip on the window rubbers? I see so many models where its either all black or all chrome, but either just isn’t right for most classic British cars. I’ve got both this kit and some Minis to build and haven’t worked out an obvious way to do the insert. Cheers Will
  22. Wow, looks fantastic. Nicely interpreted version of the original artists vision and no doubt you've added further imagination of your own for the bits not shown or clear in the picture. And the debris and "laundry" fluttering in the breeze works well too. The pilot would have to be a real hero, I expect there might be a fair degree of asymmetric handling to deal with! Thanks for thinking out of (quite a number of) the box(es)! Cheers Will
  23. That’s a lovely model, though back in the day I always thought the 928 a bit of a bloater. Still it’s positively svelte compared to some of Porsche’s current monstrosities! cheers Will
  24. The Napier-Railton at Brooklands has disc brakes (rear only as far as I could see) fitted in late 40s for (aircraft) parachute braking testing. But @elderly is right about first well known use being Le Mans Jags. In his books IIRC Hawthorn suggests Ferrari’s antipathy to discs was “not invented here” syndrome; pretty much everyone in the motor trade and racing knew discs were the way ahead from mid-50s, though it would be a while before some manufacturers could be bothered -BL I’m looking at you, cooking Minis were still drums all round well into the 80’s! I still have the special spanner for the miserable fortnightly adjustment, though it’s fortunately remained unused for 35 years.
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