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I need to provide a rotorhead gear suitably sized to compliment Alan's wonderful resin and no, the thing in the kit is nowhere near good enough


fettling begins




I ned a suitably tapered tube to which can be affixed the composition of struts doodahs and whizzits that comprises the beautiful piece of rotating sculpture


Above are: A tapered tube made from the Evergreen Rod & Tube set, apply warmness and gently pull a length into a smooth taper.

A length of Aeroclub slim tube to become the base rod on the gearbox.

A length of 0.030" Evergreen rod to centralise the mixture and provide the core of the unit.


These items are now sitting in my Hand grip tool awaiting inspiration



Tested concepts offered to you exclusively, herewith one pylon test fitted on the model.



Come back in a while, I've to work out how to make the basic spider with additional rubbery feet...




Happy days...

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4 minutes ago, Terry1954 said:


Cosa ha detto!

Brilliant Terry, but if you really want to sound Italian, you should instead write "Idem" :winkgrin:  :D  



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And here in this room I have been playing with white plastic, black plastic and



Albion Alloys tubes and rods.




Because   sadly this



Isn't 1/72 scale I'm sad to say, this rotor head is one of Alan's wonderful 1/48 scale parts, but having it to hand has allowed me to work to a guide. 

Very rare for me when I have some scratchbuilding to do and very welcome for that reason.


Alan's rotor head has the later hydraulic blade dampers fitted, now I have to decide if I'm going to copy that or fit the fixed rod rubber (Silentbloc?) blade dampers instead.


Hydraulic version



And  the fixed rubber block type




Decisions huh?


I can decide later, off for an audiology appointment...

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Only just found this thread.  Superb work and as others have said, are we sure it's 1/72?


To go right back to page 1 though when most of the discussion was about Lynx, BERP stands for British Experimental Rotor Programme/Profile.  In essence what it does is to reduce the onset of the leading blade tip approaching the speed of sound which in turn provides increased lift and permits higher maximum speeds.  I went to a fascinating lecture a few years ago given by one of the designers at Westlands and he took us through the maths behind it, but don't ask me to try to remember that!


I sold my soul and returned to General Service in 1992 and to the best of my knowledge there were no operational Lynx flying with BERP blades then.  I think the first ones started appearing around 1994.  


Distraction over, back to the Scout 🙂

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I expect the imperative to return to G.S was inexorable so I promise not to think badly of you sir.  ;) 



This seems a good time to mention there are still Lynxes in the pattern, but the Scout and possibly her sister are way up the 'list' for now.


I have still not decided upon the blade damper question's answer, tomorrow will be the day of destiny, OK?


Today a tadlet of paint helps define the situation.




It became obvious that the Nimbus was situated too close to the rotor MGB and the gap at the rear for the drive shaft extension being too big, just because, off it came...




Except for the damper this new 1mm further back look seems poifeckt so I'm leaving it here.


Obviously shifting the engine meant other displacements which were ready to be replaced too, oil cooler unit here and other displaced pipes tomorrow.


Sorry Ian, it seems I wobbled.




A fresh batch of acetate is on order for tomorrow, then I can begin making windows and correcting mis-shapes.


Busy days a'coming


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It was decided, hydraulic blade dampers




Awaiting oil reservoirs for each damper cylinder



We will see tomorrow whether these pots are big enough or even (and probably) too dumbned big...



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Yup they were too big so newer smaller damper reservoirs were put on instead




Resulting in busy but not obtrusive, much more to my taste in scratchbuilding.


Underneath, the (harmonic?) dampers and other control links are in place too.




No that isnt the final colour of the blades but basically a discloser ready for finalising later


The airframe has had a coat of RAF Dark Green ready for the Dark earth when it arrives, I'm giving Hataka paints a thorough test these days and so far I kinda like the stuff.


The new RAF Dark Earth should arrive within a day or so


Today I've been working on the tail rotor, just needs to be trimmed now 



and have the pitch change gear added.




You possibly noticed, no engine!


I decided to take it off rather than get paint all over it and it is only attached by the few pipe ends, engine throttle control rods and four mounting points so its easy to refit it.



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I'm with Ian. Beautiful work on that rotor head. I was wondering whether you had used Fusion or maybe Blender ................... then I realised it was probably Billder!


Great stuff.



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Getting a bit more like now



Hataka Dark Earth arrived yesterday and gets an early run out on the Scout, I like it a lot.


I brushed it using the Army Painter Wet Palette and it behaved very well.


I'm still finalising the airframe I will be modelling and having put a lot of pieces into the tail rotor I think I will paint it red, white and black rather then the later black and white flicker pattern to let it catch the eye on the table :)


Choice then as to whether it will be early scheme with white serials and the RAF style fin flash too or later with black serials and lettering and no fin flash.


It does seem odd having RAF type markings on an army aircraft...





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The counterweights and pitch change machinery on the tail rotor, the inner counterweights have not yet been 'bobbled' with Cockpit Glue blobs 




I ought to admit working this small has gotten almost beyond me, is this a warning I'll have to work bigger I wonder.


Does the dreaded 48th scale sit quietly sniggering in the corner awaiting catching me in its claws I wonder?


Anyway I aint'nt there yet.




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OK it seems that the most important collecting pieces and getting ready for assembly work is complete so in the next few days I will begin closing up and some decalising too.




The dark earth coat is good enough for me and the seats and rear doors are ready to go in the proper places.


And inside the rear doors some of the basic structure has been added, a rare departure for me 'cos I usually just leave inside them bare.




Yes the Hataka paint will be easily removed with a pointy stick from the runaway pieces and the substructure of the doors will be appended after the exterior colour is finalised.




I'll be happy enough with that



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I sometimes wonder if I would be happier if somebody stole my hard drive and all the photographs in it


Before whenever I have built a Scout I've been happy enough to just stick the bulgy windows in place and move on, but...


I keep researching these little beasties and saving photos, like that one above with the insides of the bulges.


This one 




All that stuff inside, how can I leave it out?


I dont think I can, thanks to OCD ness


So I had to stick a lower edge to the doors




And phoney up some innards




For me this is enough, for you?


I am going to tidy up the Medium Sea Grey on the lower lip too of course.

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