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About Chewbacca

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  • Birthday April 12

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    Royal Navy and Fleet Air Arm

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  1. Success! On the third attempt, doubling the size of all the contact points and at least doubling the numbers of supports, I finally have a crane jib that I can use. Bizarrely though, the second, spare, jib printed perfectly over 3/4 of its length and then failed at the end. So I still don't understand the inconsistencies. But hey, I've got one that is usable. Still needs a bit more of a clean up - hiding inside there is one support that I am struggling to see how I will get out cleanly but that's a problem for later today. Thanks for watching
  2. That's very nice Steve. TVRs do suffer from corrosion on the outriggers - the last one I did had no outrigger chassis tube left at all on the nearside just pieces of rust that fell out of the sill panel when I removed it. This one is better but not a lot and what is left of the outriggers will all need to be cut away and replaced with new. The rest of the chassis looks pretty solid although I won't know for certain until it's sent away for shotblasting and all of the powder coating is removed. But none of it is undoable. The worst issue with this car is electrics -
  3. It could be certainly. I think my settings may also be wrong where the supports join the parts (I followed some recommendations on YouTube from someone who turns out fantastic models using the same printer) but I'm loathe to make them much larger or I get into the situation that I found with the initial AJE aerials where the support connections were bigger than the parts themselves and it because near impossible to separate them without damaging the parts. I had a similar problem on some of the support struts on the crane base but in the end cut the errant ones away and replaced with brass r
  4. Only just caught up with the past few weeks work on this and it is looking amazing. I'm still hoping that at some point Trumpeter may branch out and do a D class cruiser as well. Other than knowing that the Ds were 22 ft longer and had a different main armament arrangement, neither of which would be especially difficult to scratchbuild, they were also beamier which then starts getting a wee bit trickier. I've still not really looked at the other differences despite it coming up in a discussion on here nearly a year ago. I'd like to build DANAE as she was when she escorted HOOD on the Empir
  5. Pleased to report that the airbrush adaptor worked fine although I may need to tweak it very slightly just to make the inlet into the airbrush a tadge wider as it goes in I think just a fraction too far. Another 0.05 mm should do it. Anyway, here are the results of trying to get a typical North Kent Coast tidal murky greeny/brown - let's be honest, this waterway is anything but blue. I lived quite close to it for my first 18 years so remember these colours reasonably well! Whether I have represented them accurately here or not is another matter - I'll leave that to others to dec
  6. As I understood it she was part designed by the US Navy for her alternate troopship role and her speed was optimised so that she could outrun any known or predicted submarine threat. Her designer was well known for warship designs during WW2.
  7. Fascinating stuff which I shall follow with interest. Pre-Dreadnought era is not really my thing but this could change that. BTW, I know it's off topic but I must ask, what car was it that you built? I'm currently just finishing the strip down on a 1982 TVR Tasmin before I start the full nut & bolt rebuild
  8. Some really good work going on here. I too have the Airfix QM2 waiting in the stash but mine will be waterlined when I get to it so hopefully not have the problem with the bulbous bow. I know they're not ocean liners as such but cruise liners, but I wish someone would do models of the current P&O fleet. QM2 has great lines, but they're nothing when put next to Britannia and even the smaller ships like Azura or Ventura stand out from the crowd. Mind you, none are a patch on QE2!
  9. Last couple of times I tried this I ended up getting blu-tac on the glue which of course then separated when I tried to pull it away leving behind a small blue blob that took an age to remove. Just blame my incompetence I guess.!
  10. I think there are better people out there than I to do this. There's a member in one of my local model clubs who's been into 3D printing for a few years now and has produced a 1/72 Tribal Class destroyer using this technology. His latest venture is a series of models - T23, T26 and the WW1 town class cruiser HMS GLASGOW in a range of scales from 1/2400 up to 1/350 - which when he's refined them I think is planning to offer them for sale online. I know he was talking about doing custom prints. The issue that I have is inconsistency. So in this latest print run, one of the 2 cran
  11. We've all heard the acronym, KISS. No, not the American rock band, but Keep It Simple Stupid. So why oh why do I keep insisting on overcomplicating things? It all stemmed from the work leading up the posts above about the order of flags for dressing ship. One of the images that I was using to try to work it out before @dolphin38kindly posted the list from BR67 was this one of LYNX which although accepting that it is badged as an artwork, I think is in fact a hand touched photograph: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HMS-LYNX-LIMITED-EDITION-ART-25-/272553586248
  12. That's simply beautiful. The grey backdrop in the second photo is very reminiscent of Scapa Flow!
  13. I picked up a rat-tail file years ago (40+!) from my LMS which has been invaluable for those sort of tasks. It's about 3 inches long and tapers from 0.5 mm at its tip to just under 1 mm at it's widest point. Sadly I've never seen one since!
  14. Thanks - that helps a lot. I looked in my copies of BR67 but they're older and didn't have this level of detail.
  15. Thanks Beefy and Crisp for our kind words and thanks also Crisp for the potential offer of a Mk3 conversion kit. There's no rush to look as I've got plenty of other things to be getting on with and in fairness I may be able to get one anyway from an AM supplier. I seem to recall it was Alley Cat who did them - is that right? But back to PUMA. Main effort this week has been preparing the files to print the signal flags for the dressing lines. There are some aftermarket sets available but the ones I've seen generally only have the international code signal flags and not the naval
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