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About Chewbacca

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  1. Chewbacca

    1/48 Trumpeter Seahawk FGA6

    Well that was a frustrating evening. Flattened the hand brushed paint (in fact I almost took it all off) but every time I loaded the airbrush with paint, it sprayed one pass then clogged. I would then spend 20 minutes cleaning it out. Reload, one pass then clog. Happened about 4 times with 2 different Iwata airbrushes. I tried playing with the density of the paint mixture and it was either thin and watery, which would spray, or add just one tiny drop more to thicken it and it blocked. To make matters worse I managed to break the nosewheel door and bend the main undercarriage. I'm thinking I should have stuck with the handbrushed and gone heavy on the weathering.
  2. Chewbacca

    F-4 STGB Again

    Count me in - I've got the Hasegawa FG1 and a set of F4-K decals so back to the old ARK ROYAL here we go. Unless of course by then Airfix have done the decent thing and scaled up their F4-K to the proper scale!
  3. Chewbacca

    1/48 Trumpeter Seahawk FGA6

    Fortunately I found last night that Hu trainer yellow enamel is a near perfect match for the yellow so have touched up the wing stripe leading edges and put a first coat of yellow down on the fuselage. I must confess I couldn't face masking the whole aircraft and going through he rigmarole of cleaning the airbrush after spraying enamel so after masking the front and rear of the fuselage stripes I brush painted it to see what the result was like. It'll need a good flatten down with some 1000 grade wet and dry before a second coat but I think it will be okay. Provided I can smooth it off sufficiently with the wet 7 dry I will spray the top coat now that I know that it works. Looks like I'll be painting the jet pipes for a third time! Curiously I also fitted all of the stencils last night and one is very interesting. No 30 reads: HOOD JITE SON BRIAN WINDOW PULL 10 RELLASE I wonder who Brian Window is? I think it should read HOOD JETTISON BEHIND WINDOW PULL TO RELEASE
  4. Chewbacca


    Latest on this is that I have been in email contact with the museum and I am visiting to view the BULOLO model next week. the curator is also going to have a search through the archives for any other information they may have on her. This project has a fighting chance of coming together.
  5. Chewbacca

    1/48 Trumpeter Seahawk FGA6

    Should've persisted with the masking. Tom was right, the fuselage stripes don't fit, but then neither do they conform to the complex curves either wrinkling at every opportunity. This is the top decal that is perfectly lined up on the port side with the top of the jet exhaust and in line with the aft edge of that, yet it's at least 2mm out on the stbd side and ripped in about 4 places. None of these stripes would slide once they were in place despite a goodly coating of Microsol beforehand. Furthermore, the wing stripes don't fit especially well either. These are lined up with the fwd end of the flaps/airbrakes: I'll finish the rest of the decals tomorrow, get a couple of coats of Klear over the top and then mask again and spray the strips. It's a shame as the other decals went on really well.
  6. Chewbacca

    Best product for carrier deck texture?

    Wet and dry paper is by far the best solution for British flight decks picking the grade depending upon the scale. I think I used 320 grade for my 1/32 Sea Venom and I'm currently finishing a couple of 400 grade decks for a 1/48 Firefly and 1/48 Seahawk. Probably 600 grade would do 1/72 but I don't do that scale anymore so have never tried it! However, as you rightly observe, USN flight decks are far, far coarser than Royal Navy and they do have those stripes. I think the first time I landed on-board a US carrier (NIMITZ herself IIRC) I was slightly shocked by how grainy it is but then when you're manoeuvring 18 ton aircraft on a wet, slippery deck, you need all the help you can get (she was full of F14s when I was there). The wet and dry paper technique is far too uniform for a US carrier deck. Personally I think I would go for a reasonably fine sand sprinkled over the board that is already covered in wet PVA. Whilst it's still wet you could try combing it into rough lines and then with an old household paintbrush scrub lightly from left to right at 90 degrees to the combing to break up the uniformity. Shake off the excess and spray the whole thing with dilute PVA. It may work, it may not.
  7. I saw this in AMW and was seriously impressed. its not until you see that last photo that you realise quite how much has been packed into a tiny space. but then these were small cruisers. 50ft shorter than the Leander class and 100 ft shorter than BELFAST. I've been looking at how I could create one in 1/600 but the surgery required to a BELFAST hull is simply too great. I might get away with it on an AJAX hull but they're like hens teeth. Now if only Flyhawk would scale it up to 1/350th...
  8. Chewbacca

    Classic Airframes Sea Vampire Prototype 1/48

    I was privileged 2 years ago to get a VIP invitation to Winkle Brown's memorial event at Yeovilton. A fantastic day to remember the achievements of undoubtedly Britain's greatest aviator with all of the great and the good from the last 50 years or so of the Fleet Air Arm (so I've no idea why they invited me!). Why Winkle was never knighted I will never understand. This build is looking really good so far. I'm looking forward to seeing how it progresses.
  9. Chewbacca

    1/48 Trumpeter Seahawk FGA6

    Thanks Rich. I 'm very aware of the fading issue but most of the period photos taken around the time of Aden seem to show them being in pretty good condition. What concerned me was the quite stark straight line under the Tamiya tape that had darkened; that did not look at all realistic. But it was soon cured with a light blow over from the airbrush as about 5 psi to blend it all back in. Unfortunately in doing so I then also lost the contrast panels that I was trying to create. So its now had 36 hrs to harden. Next step a couple of coats of Klear and let's see how the decals perform. Meanwhile, time to turn some attention to those 3 inch rockets. I think it was Seahawk who said in his thread they were pretty nasty: he was right. Arguably the least representative 3 inch rockets I've seen in a long time. But since I'm doing this in a wings spread configuration and with the Seahawk having such a low ground clearance, I think I will get away with it.
  10. Apparently he enjoyed it. To quote: "it was a refreshing break from gas turbine thermodynamics revision"! I was stuck on a train to London today for a meeting unable to get internet connection on my work laptop and so having read about bow pens on here I thought I would Google them on my personal phone. To my utter amazement I discovered that they are those funny screw devices that I inherited from my father in his engineer's drawing set. I never had any idea what they were! They say that everone learns something every day, that was it for me! Thanks to Heather for introducing them in this thread.
  11. Chewbacca

    1/48 Trumpeter Seahawk FGA6

    Okay it's back from the spray shop and I must confess I'm not overly impressed. The curvature on the demarcation running up to the tail isn't great so that will need to be redone and for some strange reason after I contrast painted a couple of the panels in EDSG with a drop of black added to break up the monotone, the original paint reacted to the Tamiya tape and went even darker. Will have to respray that. Plus a little bleed through to touch in with a 000 hairy stick. And there was me thinking I'd be adding the first Klear coat tonight.
  12. Chewbacca


    Hadn't thought of that - thanks. I'm in Glasgow on business in few weeks time and my hotel is only a mile or so from the Riverside. Just need to engineer some free time one afternoon. Probably 1/600 though I may look at 1/350 depending upon what I can come up with
  13. Without wishing to hijack this fascinating thread and excellent build, I thought this was worthy of a bit of exploration and fortunately my son is currently studying aeronautical engineering at one of the UK's top engineering universities so I thought I would summon his help. As a former Lynx Observer, I have a pretty good idea about the aerodynamics affecting rotor blades including the blade tips approaching supersonic speed, the effects of retreating blade stall etc, but I had no idea how to calculate the amount of lift from a given rotor disc with blades of a specific aerofoil section at a given angle of attack, or how to calculate the amount of energy you needed to accelerate them and then maintain a constant speed. And after an hour on the phone last night in which he explained a whole raft of stuff involving differential equations, I'm still not entirely sure, but in a nutshell, it is this. The speed of sound at sea level in a standard ICAO atmosphere, is give or take, 1,100 feet per second (fps). An aircraft travelling forward at 100 kts is around 165 fps, at the Rotadyne's cruise speed of 168 kts it is 280 fps. You then have to add the forward rotational speed of the advancing blade. Given that the effects of compressibility start acting around M0.85 (actually they start lower than that but they become much more noticeable at that M number), aircraft designers aim to keep the maximum speed of the blade tip below 935 fps (1,100 x 0.85). That means that at cruise speed the maximum speed of the rotors can be 935 - 280 = 655 fps. That in turn with a 45 ft blade equates to a rotor RPM of about 140. The next bit of maths I didn't understand but essentially 140 RPM with that rotor blade aerofoil section cannot generate sufficient lift to get the aircraft off the ground. To achieve a vertical take off, a minimum rotor speed of around 200 RPM would be necessary. This equates to 940 fps. Since the rotor disc itself is unpowered, it acts like an autogyro. In other words, the disc only generates lift in forward flight. And so to get that 200 RPM, you have to somehow drive the blades. After this he had to make some assumptions about rotor blade mass (early rotor blades were extremely heavy; Rotadyne blades had a cast steel main spar) and the likely energy available from the compressed air bleed. Based on a main spar of 25mm x 50 mm, 3 mm thick, the blade would weigh ~ 60 kg. It's important when advancing the rotor speed to do it as quickly as possible to avoid the phenomena known as droop when the blades drop down below their normal flight path and can hit the airframe. The YouTube video of a Rotadyne engaging rotors seems to show it going from stopped to full speed in about 15 seconds although I suspect its actually slightly longer and the video has been edited. Either way the torque needed to accelerate the tip of a 60 kg blade from zero to 200 RPM in let's say, 20 seconds, is around 690ftlb. The next bit got very hazy as he lost me in the maths, but essentially the compressed air fed alone would be insufficient to accelerate the blades up to 200 RPM and therefore needed the added thrust afforded by the fuel injectors - a sort of early afterburner if you like. Of course once the Rotadyne starts to transition to forward flight, it benefits from transational lift and the energy needed to drive the rotor disc reduces. At this point the fuel supply to the jets can be cut off and the compressed air supply withdrawn. At that point the rotor disc generates lift but only in forward flight. It's actually a very simple and neat system and although the pipework would be an engineering challenge, its a lot simpler than adding a drive from the engines to a main rotor gearbox (and then a tail rotor gearbox to counter the torque) or a separate lift engine (again with a tail rotor), Hope that helps and once again apologies if this has hijacked. Back to the build!
  14. Chewbacca


    Thought I'd post this here as maybe a few more maritime experts might see it that may not otherwise see it over in Group Builds. I've been promising myself for a number of years now that I must build a model of HMS BULOLO in memory of my father who was a Chief Electrical Artificer and who served in BULOLO under Lord Louis Mountbatten from 1945 to 1946 during her Far East deployment. He was present when Lord Louis took the Japanese surrender in Singapore. The forthcoming Pacific at War GB gives me the perfect catalyst to get this project going but I am struggling for reference material. BULOLO started off life as a cruise liner operating between Australia and Papua New Guinea but, when just over a year old, was taken up from trade - I think they called it requisitioning in those days! - and converted initially to an Armed Merchant Cruiser equipped with seven 6-inch guns, two 3-inch AA guns, depth charges and close range weapons. For the next 2 years or so she was employed on convoy escort duty in the Atlantic or used to scout out German surface raiders. In March 1942 she was again taken into dockyard hands and her main armament stripped off as she was converted to an amphibious command ship, an idea proposed by Lord Louis when he was appointed head of Combined Operations. She served with distinction throughout the amphibious landings in North Africa and Italy before returning to UK to prepare for D Day where again she was the amphibious command platform for Gold beach. Another communications refit followed and my father joined her as she departed for the Far East in early 1945. She continued her headquarters ship role and it was from her that the victory in Malaya and Burma was coordinated. She remained under the white ensign until December 1946 when she was returned to her former owners, Burns, Philp & Company in Sydney and she resumed her peacetime role for the next 22 years before she was sold for scrap in 1968. That much I can find out. I can find a series of photos although most seem to be of her time in the Mediterranean, preparing for Overlord or after she was returned to her commercial duties . I'm struggling, however to find anything that's sufficiently detailed from which I can draw up a set of plans. I'm hoping that the maritime expertise on here may have some suggestions where I could get some better information, or if any of you have any experience of trying to draw up plans from photos taken 20-40 degrees off the bow! It's also the first scratchbuilt ship that I've attempted since I tried to make a 1/72 HMS AMAZON from balsa wood when I was a teenager in the 1970s and that was a dismal failure! I've done a lot of scratchbuilt superstructures so that side of it doesn't worry me but it's the compound curves around the bow and stern that concern me, especially without detailed plans from which I can draw up some plasticard frames to skin. So I'm thinking it might be best to go for a balsawood hull and plasticard upperworks. The other thought I had if I can draw it in CAD is to 3D print the hull. Again, I'm open to people's suggestions from those who've gone before. http://www.navyphotos.co.uk/Combined ops assault and landing ships/images/bulolo2b.jpg
  15. Not only seriously good bit of modelling but amazing that it took only 84 hours. The rigging alone would have taken me that long!