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About Chewbacca

  • Birthday April 12

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    Royal Navy and Fleet Air Arm

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  1. Work continues slowly. Now got a couple of coats of white on all the major components though it it still looks somewhat patchy and thin so will need a couple more coats. I think my paint mix was too thin. Also added the bulwarks to the fo'c'sle and 1 deck port and starboard and started to cut out the decks from 30 thou plasticard. Some dry fit photos below. As you can see from these, still more remedial work needed on the hull join. [ In the background have also drawn all (hopefully) of the other minor components - motor whaler, cutter, davits, vents, lockers, bollards, fairleads and so on. They'll be going to the printer later today. Thanks for watching
  2. Fwd and aft hull halves now epoxied together, filler added to hide the join and a first coast of primer to see where we're at. Still some more filling and sanding! I also took the main superstucture off the print sprues and flattened off the base ready for a dry fit. Unfortunately I thin I should have UV cured it before taking it off the sprues because the port side of the hangar, which was pretty thin (0.2 mm IIRC), warped as soon as the support was removed. So will have to replace that with some sheet styrene. The hangar door isn't much better I'm afraid so that may have to go as well. The other area that needed attention was the bridge roof. Where I had cut through the bridge windows for visibility, I ended up cutting too close to the roof and it was less than 1/20th mm think in the end which of course crumbled as soon as I cut away the supports. So that's already replaced with some 20 thou styrene. I also had an issue where I was trying to be too clever. Just aft and 1 deck below the bridge was the main chart room. This was a huge open space with a large plotting table in the middle where the hydrographers would manually prepare the chart masters. I thought I would mould the table to the deck below so that it would be visible through the fairly large windows. Only slight snag was that for some strange reason I drew it in the wrong place. So out with the razor saw and off it came. In hindsight, it was a bit too big. It was only about 6 foot square and that was closer to 10 or 12. I have very fond memories of using that table to "amend" a large chart of the South Atlantic on which we had plotted all of the seabirds we had seen which was to be presented to the Royal Naval Ornithological Society when we returned. Let's just say that there may have been some additional ones added that probably have never appeared on any bird watcher's list before or after! In our defence, they were only in pencil... (and no, that is not a fingerprint though I do concede in the photo it does look spookily like one) @Andreas.R was very kind and offered me the offcuts he had left over from his Artwox deck but no matter how I played the jigsaw, I couldn't get all of the bits to fit and I can't find any suppliers outside China who are all quoting July/August delivery times. So I guess I will have to try the Mk1 deck which Hannants do have in stock. Or I might just resort to painting the deck as I always have done in the past. I've also printed all of the smaller bits and pieces - funnel, foremast, main survey crane, capstan and windlass and have started to draw the boats in CAD. There must be an easier way to draw boats that I have found. So far I have done a first pass at the Survey Motor Boat. Still need to draw the 27 ft motor whaler and the smaller cutter that sits on the stbd aft davit. For the life of me I cannot remember what that was and the photos are not especially clear Thanks for watching
  3. Dear Andreas, That is extremely kind of you. I have sent you a PM with the dimensions Very best regards
  4. Or maybe I won't. Hadn't spotted that all of the suppliers I had looked at for the Artwox deck were in China and quoting delivery times measured in months not weeks. I can get the Mk1 from Hannants but they seem expensive.. I may have to go down that route though.
  5. Thanks Andreas, that's most helpful to hear from someone who has actually used the product. I shall place an order now.
  6. Some may have noticed that I posed a question in General Modelling Chat about 6 weeks ago about generic wooden deck as I was thinking about scratch building HMS HECLA in memory of the fact that 40 years ago I was heading south in her to act as an ambulance ship with our sister ships HYDRA and HERALD in the NOSH Box - Naval Oceangoing Surgical Hospital - supporting the principal casualty receiving ship, SS Uganda. Unfortunately the only reply I got to that topic didn't answer the question of whether either of those wooden decks are worthwhile investments, but with the 40th anniversary commemorations coming up in Portsmouth in 6 weeks time which I am attending, and in which the Royal Naval Association is hosting a model show, I thought I'd give it a go and see what could be done. I doubt it will be finished because I am not the world's quickest modeller at the best of times and I know I am really busy over the next few weeks. But 3D printing should speed up the process (even if some would say it is cheating!). So over the past 6 weeks I have been slowing growing my CAD skills and trying to draw an entire ship. I have no plans whatsoever, just a series of photos of which fortunately one is taken very nearly beam on and which I can scale to 1/350 to take the measurements. The advantage of this ship over many others is dating the photos is very easy -no red cross and it's not of the right period (we left Gibraltar on 19 April and returned to Devonport on 29 July). It looks very out of scale because I haven't included the bulwarks or decks which I shall add from 20/40 thou plasticard. My printer (Elegoo Mars) has a reasonable sized print deck but not big enough for the whole project so I have had to split the hull in two. Fortunately It did seem to print reasonably well but when I came to fit the two halves together, I found the stubs that I moulded to ensure it was lined up lacked the tolerance for the corresponding sockets. So I ended up taking those off with a razer saw and shall have to rely on Mk 1 eye ball. It also didn't print the end plates completely flush so there is some more sanding and filling to do to get a decent fit. But a lot quicker than cutting frames and plating as I did with BULOLO. Next job is to strip out the 3D design into smaller pieces and start printing the superstructure. Wish me luck - I think I will need it! Oh, and if anyone has any experience of the Artwox or Mk1 wooden decks (or indeed any other generic wood deck), I'd still value your thoughts Thanks for watching
  7. Pleased to report that PUMA is finally finished bar the Perspex case (for which I have yet to order the Perspex). Just a few quick photos from last night as she sat on the bench; I'll do some better ones later in the week for the RFI. I wimped out on spraying the jetty with matt coat for fear that the figures would end up flying all over the place as a couple of people had said above. Instead, after a quick check that the Vallejo matt varnish didn't dry with white splodges all over the place if I used a hairy stick (as the Humbrol one has done in the past) I did it with a very soft large brush. Still ended up knock about 10-12 off but at least for all bar 1 I could see where they went and get them re-attached. For those coming to next Saturday's Viking's Show in Poole, I hope to display here there. The dilemma now is what next? As some may have spotted, I asked the question about generic wood decks with a view to scratchbuilding HMS HECLA as she appeared in 1982 (especially noting that it is 40 years ago today that we sailed from Gibraltar heading to the South Atlantic). I'm pretty well advanced with drawing the basic structure in 3D CAD so can print the hull and main superstructure parts (render below) but if I do it I want to get it finished in time for the big 40th anniversary Falklands celebrations in Portsmouth where the Royal Naval Association Modelling SIG are holding an exhibition. And as readers on here will know, I am not the quickest of modellers (mainly because I don't get time to do it often enough). Thanks for watching
  8. Sorry, only met him for about 10 mins and that would have been 2015/2016 or so so even if he gave me his name at the time, I certainly don't remember it now.
  9. Beautifully done. Having just fought with the much simpler rigging on HMS PUMA, I am especially impressed with the way that you have portrayed it here. May I ask what rigging material you used?
  10. And I think by 2026, the first DREADNOUGHT should be in the water.
  11. Very nicely done. You're right it's tight, especially with a helicopter that weighs just shy of 15 tons at max all up mass, but in reality it's not quite as bad as that. If you look in the middle of white circle on the flight deck, there is a square area in the middle of that which is the deck lock grid. The idea is that the deck lock, which is located between the main wheels, engages one of the holes there. The athwartships dotted line should line up with the Pilots' seats. So in reality the aircraft is about another 10 feet further aft with everything aft of the tail fold mechanism hanging over the aft end. It's still difficult, which is why historically (I don't know if it has changed since I left the RN) the pass criteria for Fleet Air Arm helicopter pilots was higher than their RAF counterparts. The Ensign Staff is only ever fitted when alongside, at anchor, moored to a buoy or when at Harbour Stations for entering/leaving harbour. The only time that an aircraft would be there simultaneously would be a Procedure Alpha entry when it would be positioned as close to the hangar door as possible. This photo shows it probably better than I can explain, albeit it is a T23 but the same principle applies.
  12. Confucius he say "When modeller makes best judgement of positioning equipment in the face of no substantive evidence, evidence proving it wrong will materialise after model is finished!"
  13. I find the best way to resize is to open the plan/image in Powerpoint, crop the image tightly to stem and stern and then use the format image tool to resize the horizontal component of the image to what size you in need in whatever scale you are using (though make sure that you tick the lock aspect ration box first).
  14. Fascinating set of photos. 'Tis a great pity that the Museum of the Royal Navy's online collection doesn't offer up anything like this.
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