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About Chewbacca

  • Birthday April 12

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    Royal Navy and Fleet Air Arm

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  1. The definitive list that I generally use for RN WW2 radars is here: https://www.rnradioandradar.co.uk/radars/radarmatrix.htm and this also makes no reference to a Type 265
  2. The other thing to remember is that of course the paint on the lugless joining shackles and individual marker shackles either side of them very quickly wore off when you dropped/weighed anchor so it was the job of some poor soul in the cable party to repaint each as it was being weighed with the cable still moving. It was very rough and ready! Shackles, as terms of length of cable in the Royal Navy changed. Prior to 1949 (according to my 1967 Admiralty Manual of Seamanship), a shackle was 12.5 fathoms. Post 1949 it is 15 fathoms.
  3. Current regulations date from 1972. The regulations in force in 1947 would have been the 1929 SOLAS convention which I cannot find anywhere on line. I do have a copy of my father's Sea Cadet handbook dating from about 1937/38 and the limited subset of rules given in there are broadly similar to the 1972 regulations but there's nothing in that book about anchor shapes or lights. Maybe it is just me, but whilst I find those photos historically very interesting, at the same time I think they're really rather sad.
  4. I've only just caught up with this build after a few months and your work is exquisite as always. It is an inspiration to us all. And I therefore hate to say this four months down the line, but whilst you are absolutely right in that the hawsepipe is too high in the kit, as far as I can tell, it is not fully open thwartships but has cutouts either side for the anchor flukes which the kit portrays but your modified versions appears not to do. It may be that with the anchor in place you can't see it because I fear it may be too late to rectify.
  5. Ah, understood. ASW helicopter aircrew are known as pingers today for that reason. Sonar operators are known as "TAS Apes"; I've never heard anyone simply called a "ping" but it mkes sense - language changes. Interestingly, I'd never even considered that cruisers would have been fitted with sonar/ASDIC and there are very few references to it but Watton (HMS BELFAST - Anatomy of a Ship) and Wingate (HMS BELFAST 1939-72) both refer to BELFAST having Type 132 ASDIC in 1939 so I guess it was also fitted to other Town class.
  6. Thanks. You must forgive my ignorance but I assume "ping" has auto-corrected from something but for the life of me I cannot work out what it is!
  7. As we used to say in my flying days, they're all just targets! Seriously, the Churchill class had a very pronounced humpback shaped hull whereas the later Swiftsure and Trafalgar classes had/have a much flatter casing top.
  8. From my recollection when I was working on the Merlin HM1-2 and HC3/3A update s 10 years ago, the Airfix kit portrays the RAF HC3. When they were transferred to the RN in around 2013 to replace the HC4 Sea Kings, they just repainted them and carried on operating them as they were, so that would be the simplest conversion just needing a new set of decals. Over the next 5 or so years, they redesigned them with folding rotor heads and tail pylons to create the Mk 4/4A (the A variants were originally ordered by Denmark and had a different sensor fit but the UK MOD acquired them at the height of Op Herrick to fill a need for more battlefield helicopters). The HM1 and 2 are the ASW variants and have a very different fuselage rear end without the ramp which I suspect would be a challenging conversion. Externally there are few differences between an HM1 and 2; the major differences were internal (glass cockpit, completely new Observer/Aircrewman console etc). I seem to recall that Italeri did a 1/72 HM1 As far as I know, there is no kit of a Wildcat yet. I know that some have converted the Lynx to a Wildcat and although on paper it looks fairly simple, as the Deputy Chief Test Pilot at Westlands once told me, there are only about 6 panels that are common to both aircraft! The Airfix Lynx HMA 8 in 1/48 is a pretty good kit I understand and is now readily available having been recently re-released. The Revell 1/32 HAS 3 is also supposed to be reasonable and you can pick them up quite cheap at shows or on the internet. However, be aware that there were multiple different mod states for the Lynx (HAS 2, HAS 3, HAS 3GM, HAS 3S, HAS 3SGM, HAS 3 ICE) and it is important to do your research as there was almost nothing like a "standard" Lynx. If you've got the Sea King HAR 3 the easiest FAA conversion is probably the HAS 2 from the 1970s. The HAS 5/6 needs the larger Sea Searcher radome. Airfix also do a 1/72 HC4 and AEW Mk 7 which are relatively new tools and I'm told are pretty good. According to Scalemates, Hasegawa do a HAR5 and AEW Mk 2 in 1/48 but I've never seen either of them. Italeri do all 3 variants of the FAA Wessex in 1/48, HAS 1, HAS 3 and HU5. If you can get it, there is the very aged Fujimi Wasp in allegedly 1/48 but I believe its closer to 1/50. Do not underestimate the amount of work needed to turn this into anything vaguely half decent! It took me over a year and I suggest it would be challenging to do in the timescale of a GB. I reckon I kept the (modified) fuselage, the canopy transparency, the wheels and the tail/main rotor blades though the latter were heavily thinned down and probably needed a lot more thinning. My WIP is here: There are lots of WIPs on BM by people who have converted the Airfix 1/72 Scout to a Wasp and again, it's not a straightforward conversion. I'm afraid I don't enough about the Whirlwind or Dragonfly to comment. Hope that helps
  9. I'm so glad this doesn't clash with the Salty Sea Dog. I'm thinking possibly the Lynx in my avatar, XZ733 BRAVE Flight, Feb 1991 Either in 1/32 from the Revell kit or converting the 1/48 Lynx HMA 8. Anyone know if you can still get the HMA 8 to HAS 3 resin conversion kit? I remember seeing it at a show a few years back and wishing that I'd bought it.
  10. Glad this has made it but a later start might have suited me better. Have to make sure I finish the HMS LONDONDERRY alongside in Gibraltar diorama over Christmas then. Currently 3D drawing the associated tugs. No idea what I will do but since almost everything in my stash is RN/FAA, there's a lot of choice. Given that the FAA GB is also over the line, I think I might hang back on the 1/48 or 1/32 Lynx HAS 3 that I originally considered to represent one of the flight aircraft that I flew. So I think this will end up being one of His or Her Majesty's war canoes. If I'm sensible and don't try to redesign the whole thing, an Atlantic Models 1/350 HMS ALACRITY or GLASGOW might be do-able in 4 months. At least it's the time of the year when SWMBO won't expect me to tend the garden every weekend!
  11. No work at the bench for the past few days but I have been getting on with the 3D CAD for Agile and that's just about ready now for me to break apart and send the component pieces to the printer. How much of this will actually print given the scale i don;t know. 3D printing in 1/350 is pushing the limits of my printer so 1/600 is going to be a whole new experience! Thanks for watching
  12. Don't usually frequent the GB forums and I only came across to place my vote for the Salty Sea Dog GB when I saw this. As a former Observer who only ever usually models Fleet Air Arm or RN subjects, this is a no brainer for me so have placed a vote for this as well. Do count me in (subject to start date). I have multiple options in the stash.
  13. Sorry, have been a bit tied up this past week so missed the voting. Is it too late to add my vote now? But glad that we've got through anyway. When do we start? Need to consider what I do.
  14. Thanks Crisp. BOXER was still doing CACS trials when I joined her as Flight Observer in 1986! I know I said that the next task was the yardarms but on reflection that would be a bad idea because at the moment I can at least use the mainmast to pick the model up and move her around the workbench which when the yards are fitted will be a whole heap more difficult. So I need to get it attached to the baseboard so that the baseboard can be used for that function, but before I do that I needed to fit the decals because once she is alongside a jetty, fitting pennant numbers and ship's quarter nameplates will be challenging if not impossible. I ordered a set of the excellent 1/600 RN warship decals from @Peter Hall at Atlantic Models (first class service, ordered Wednesday night, invoice received and paid Thursday morning and decals arrived Friday) and they will suffice for the pennant numbers and flight deck markings. I've started with the first batch of those and now waiting for those to dry before I add the next round. But not everything I need is on that sheet, so I have drawn the bridge windows, the quarter name plates, the polished wood/chrome nameboards and the 6th Frigate Squadron funnel badges in PowerPoint suitably sized and will print those on decal paper. I've been wondering if there is a simple way of making the named deck treadplates. Every ship I have ever served in has had these, generally on the upper deck alongside where the accommodation ladder is fitted like this one: Difficult to print on decal paper as they are predominantly brass. About 600 mm wide so 1mm in this scale. I was wondering about some 10 thou styrene sheet, painted red and then dry brushed brass. or perhaps I just put it in the all too difficult box given the size - after all I've never done it before in any other builds! I'm taking a slightly different approach to the seascape. I usually put a layer of Plaster of Paris on the board and craft the swell and waves in that while it is wet, then before it sets, plunge the hull wrapped in clingflim into the plaster and wait for it to set. However, if you look at the top photo in the first post, you'll see that we were actually riding quite high in the water and when I put the hull together 6 odd years ago, I didn't leave sufficient hull beneath the boot topping. So she will have to sit on top. It's also compounded by the fact that in addition to LONDONDERRY, I have to fit RMAS Agile and two Dog class tugs and I think I will struggle to get all 4 hulls embedded in the relatively short drying time that PoP affords. If you look at the water, there is just the merest hint of a ripple across the surface so I certainly don't need to worry about a swell or any significant waves. I am therefore going to try using a 10 mm thick sheet of insulating foam that I think when painted will give that ripple effect. That's in the garage while the glue sets securing the foam to the MDF base. I've also started drawing RMAS Agile in CAD. The hull's just about done - now got the superstructure to go. Thanks for watching
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