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hendie

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Everything posted by hendie

  1. If I remember correctly, Tony ( @TheBaron ) did a wing-fold some time back using a pair of hinges salvaged from a pair of glasses. Might be worth looking into (see what i did there? 🤣 ) On my Fly build I cheated and used a brass rod as a brace for additional support.
  2. oooh, I'm interested in seeing how the tail fold turns out. (NO! I'm not designing a printed version. I did consider it but couldn't think of a decent way to create the hinge in a way that it would be strong enough to withstand all the manhandling required during the fit).
  3. WSX72 Set D (cockpit) now ready for general consumption I've shown the set here along with a 1/48 center console as a comparison. WSX72 Set D will comprise of: 2 x pilots seats Rear bulkhead console Center floor console Roof console with rotor brake 3 x Servo valve (forgot to take photo again) There are a couple of print striations on the forward edge of the seat. I will try and eliminate them, but at worst, a swipe with a sanding stick will take care of that. Here's another couple of shots to highlight the detail There is no brake lever included with the WSX72 Set D - it is just too small and fragile at this scale, however, it is easy enough to scratch one using a small length.of fuse wire, or similar.
  4. Thanks Alex. If I'd known they were going to be so popular I would have doubled my prices at the beginning. 😁 just a heads up to everyone I am working on all the orders, but was taken by surprise at the volume of orders so it is going to take me a little while to catch up. I'm trying to keep everyone up to date whenever possible. This next week should see a bunch of orders going out. Thanks for your patience while this old croney slaves away in the basement.
  5. Pete, I don't plan on adding any more parts for the Wessex. However, I said that then ended up doing the cockpit set, but I think I've done all that can be reasonably done with the kits at this point. Parts are available in 1/32 for the Fly kit but there are a few caveats. Since I no longer have a Fly kit available for test fitting I cannot guarantee as good a fit as on the Italeri parts and it's likely there will be some tweaking involved. The engine bay set may require some filler strips on the lower engine bay firewall to get it to sit nicely in the fuselage without gaps, and there will be the usual file/test fit scenario. The fuselage set should be fine though I'm not sure about the cabin bulkhead and it may require tweaking. The MRGB set should all be fine though folks should be aware that Fly have the cabin ceiling (trans deck floor) about 7mm too low and you will have to compensate for that somehow. The cockpit as far as I can remember was halfway decent in the Fly kit so I don't plan on offering Set D especially as I have no way now to test everything would fit in the available space. All said and done, yes, parts are available for the Fly kit but you should be aware that some rework will be required and being honest, I really have no way of knowing how onerous that would be. I have sent a few 1/32 kits out and haven't had any complaints, so...? It's also a real pig to print some of the 1/32 parts for some reason. I just finished a set and had to print 4 main rotor gearboxes before I got one I was happy with, so it's very time consuming and wasteful in some respects. That's the reason I haven't openly offered those for sale. PM me if you're interested and we can discuss. Alan
  6. In case anyone missed my edit to the above post... I forgot to add the two pilot seats in the photos. I'll add them as soon as I get a chance.
  7. Greetings folks. Good news at last, WSX48 Set D (Cockpit) is complete and ready to go. I spilled some primer over them and tried a white background this time instead of the normal blue background and it seems to have helped a little. Not much, but a little. Here we have on the left, the servo valve (?) which mounts on the floor directly in front of the cyclic lever. Two will be needed but as you can see by comparison with the rule, that they may be a little fiddly to trim and fit, so I'll supply three just in case. On the right is the rotor brake lever. The diameter of the lever is 0.4mm so I'm printing off a 0.5 & 0.6 mm diameter version to see if they still look in scale and perhaps be easier to handle. I'll supply two of those as well. Next up we have the meat of the cockpit set. On the left is the center floor console. In center we have the roof mounted console with rotor brake, and on the right we have the rear bulkhead console, complete with a dinky little map light. (I'm not sure why the rear bulkhead console appears to be out of focus when the other two look fine) A slightly angled view which shows the map light better, and you can just make out that there's a pressure gauge attached to the rotor brake. The full set. ***EDIT*** No, it's not - I forgot to add the two pilots seats when I took the photo I tried my best to get as close a fit as I could with the roof console and I think I got it pretty close, however the mounting surfaces on the three consoles are also the surfaces which I had to use for supports, so a little fettling will be required to get a perfect fit. Introductory price for WSX48 Set D will be $12.00. I shall update the first post in this thread to add the new set. and add photos of the two seats as soon as I get a chance I'm test printing a 1/72 cockpit set as I type this so I'll see how that turns out in a few hours. I'm hopeful that the results will be acceptable, but not for the brake lever. Scaling it down to 1/72 is just not going to be feasible for printing but I'll give it a try. Worst case in 1/72 the brake lever could be scratched from a length of 0.2 or 0.3 wire.
  8. Nice work Crisp. It's not the easiest part to replicate but you're doing a fine job
  9. Good idea.... I can make all of those switches as individual items. They're only 0.25 diameter by 0.75mm long. Would that work for you. 🤣
  10. That looks much better though I think it now needs a center support going directly back to the bulkhead, otherwise that "tail" would flap and flutter in the airflow
  11. I would have taken then further outboard - to the bottom of the window pillars. (I think) They'll let more of the engine be seen that way.
  12. You folks! Always looking for the easy way out Since you're forcing me into it, I'll give it a bash. No promises though. A couple of minutes in SolidWorks and one of these popped up on the screen. Which, if the plan comes together, should fit into the front end of the rotor brake unit like so... At the end of the day, you should have a rotor brake in the "brake on" position. Test prints are a printing once again. Just an FYI: For each one of these iterations, it's time spent designing - anywhere from 10 minutes to several hours. Followed by about 10 minutes per part in the slicing software (on average). Then we have a print run - for these parts it's about three hours. Then we have three wash cycles. Gross clean, full clean, then extra clean rinse. Let them dry for half an hour then trim off the supports that'll break things when the supports are cured. Then we have the cure itself, followed by final trimming. Then test fit, and repeat the entire operation if I haven't got it right!
  13. I have the Elegoo Mercury XS bundle - the larger version. I typically only use around 1 to 1.5 L of IPA for washing and it works fine. There's no need to fill it with 7L. Like Mike ( @bootneck ) I use multiple stations for washing. I use cat treat containers as I seem to have an endless supply as the cats keep eating the damn contents. I use 1 for the first (dirty) wash to remove the gross excess. I then use the Elegoo to give the parts a good clean, and then follow up with a third cat treat for a final clean rinse. After the first wash gets too dirty I substitute it with the 3rd wash, and start a new third wash. The Elegoo has had the same IPA in it for a couple of months now and is still perfectly usable though it's about due for a change. (I've been printing several hundreds of parts over the past month or two). One thing I am going to look at when I get time is filtering the used IPA. When the IPA sits for a while all the gunk settles to the bottom leaving a much clearer solution above. At work (have the same setup there) I used a 0.2 micron filter and sucked about 80% of the fluid out of the wash station, leaving all the gunky stuff in the bottom of the wash station. I ended up with perfectly good IPA again, and just had to discard the stuff left in the bottom of the wash station, about .25 L or less. Those filters aren't cheap but I'm thinking of trying it with a bog standard fuel filter and see what that turns out like. I have had this happen in the past, but what I noticed about those parts were that the were relatively thick walled and had not been cured properly. After some time (many, many weeks) I noticed that cracks started to appear on some parts. Now I have the cure station I've never encountered the problem again.
  14. A small update for the weekend sir? Since I've been coerced into adding some more stuff for the cockpit I thought I'd better get oni with it. The simplest panel is the rear bulkhead and since I needed the practice I opted to start this one in Fusion. Nothing too difficult and it was knocked out in an hour or two (would have taken me 45 minutes in SolidWorks) The other two panels weren't really any more difficult, they just had a lot more geometry going on, so took a while longer to construct. This time in SolidWorks as I could beaver away at this during my lunch hours. The kit part seems to have come along for the ride from the UH-34 and bears no resemblance to a Wessex console. Some hours later I had a panel which looked the part. It's as accurate as I can get it though had to make some compromises to get it to work with the kit. The two outboard levers were problematic and kept breaking off on the first coupleof test prints so I had to thicken up some areas to give them a chance of staying in place during the wash/cure/trim phase. The roof console was a bit of a pain. The kit part doesn't really fit at all so I had to keep doing test prints and adjusting from there to try and get a decent fit to the kit part. Adding switches and knobs got a bit mind numbing after a while. Yes, the rotor brake is there as you can see - without the actuating lever. There's no way the lever would withstand all the handling and packaging so I've left a hole in the front of the rotor brake so folks can add their own lever. I'll try and post a photo later so folks can see the shape. It won't be a difficult add and should be easily done - same with the hydraulic pipes exiting the rear of the brake unit. How do they get fitted then? Well, I thought it worth posting a few shots to show the process. It would have been much easier if I hadn't glued the floor and the bulkhead together to show off the seats previously Still, it wasn't hard to accomplish. The rear bulkhead was simple. I used my cheap imported scriber to create a small groove around the seam where the panel meets the bulkhead. Then I used a razor saw blade to excise the panel from the kit part. The scribed groove helped contain the blade on the right path. The floor console was removed in a similar fashion. On the kit part there is a small ledge about 1 mm from the top surface. Again, I scribed a light groove then used the razor saw blade. (ignore the bit cut off the front - originally I was going to follow the kit contour before deciding there was no gain in that process and I was just making life difficult for myself). Once the panels are moved, a simple bit of clean up leaves you with this. As seems obligatory in my threads I shall apologize for the quality of the photos beforehand. I really must try harder. I was in a bit of a rush to get this update posted so I'll try and take better quality photos next time around. The first test prints. The roof console was still being designed at this point so is missing the rotor brake and a bunch of switches and knobs. I seem to have borrowed some scale creep from Bill on the roof console. I'll need to shorten that by at least 1 mm, and the fit isn't great (still better than the kit part though) Hendiebits in place... just resting, hence the misalignment. This is the view you'll probably see from outside when the fuselage is all buttoned up. I think we're almost there. There's definitely a few tweaks needing done here and there but nothing major. Another bunch of test prints are underway as I type. Once I give those the once over there should be only one, two at most revising sessions to be performed on those bits and they should be ready for general consumption. THis is all 1/48 so far, so I still have to get the shrink ray gun out of the cupboard and give them a try in 1/72 Oh, almost forgot... I also printed off the servo valve(?) that sits on the floor just in front of the cyclic stick, but forgot to take any photos of that. Hopefully I'll have this all wrapped up by next weekend provided life doesn't get in the way.
  15. I was going to mention the seat straps but wasn't sure if the RAN versions were different. For seat belts, I've found the best material is the paper backed metal foil inside ciggy packets. The paper makes it easy to paint and gives the foil strength while the foil helps hold the shape. This is from my Whirlwind build a while back
  16. nice job on the seats Chris. The brass rod and aluminum tape method is real fiddly, and quite frankly and real pita, but the effect once painted is worth it.
  17. Pete, my Lysander was a MkII Regarding the shelf. The top shelf was just a resting place for the bang bang stick. There was a lower shelf which slid in and out and contained radio gear as far as I can remember. I think there's a couple of photos of the rear seat somewhere in my post Really neat scratching btw. This is looking to be a great build.
  18. just a general FYI for you Wessex aficionados out there. I am now looking at an upgrade for the center consoles. No promises, but I'm looking.
  19. hi Mike. I snaffled those photos as references when you posted them a while back - many thanks, they were very useful. However, I think those shots be of a modern "refurb" as there is no survival pack in the seat, and the blue cushion is merely imitating the shape. These two shots show the survival pack in place which is how I've modeled the seat - I've left it to the user to decide how to apply the sheepskin bum comforter
  20. The seats are finished. Hendiebits vs Italeri bits in 1/48 Mocked up and in 1/72 Fitting is straightforward. I have used a single locating peg for mounting - simply drill a hole midway between the two kit mounting points and you should be good to go. I have also used a standoff on the rear of the seat upright to keep alignment/spacing from the bulkhead. This will need a light swipe with a sanding stick to tidy up as it was also used for the printing supports. Price for the seats will be $2.50 a pair for both 1/72 & 1/48. dammit! the more I look at that center console the more tempting it is to redo that as well
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