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Everything posted by hendie

  1. Whenever I have delicate masking challenges I use Aizu as the primary delineation, then half overlap that with Tamiya, leaving a border of Aizu as my primary line of defense. The 1mm is always a good candidate though I have gone down to the 0.4 as occasion demand. Another benefit of the Aizu is that because of the narrow widths you can really burnish it down to get a nice sharp edge without the dangers of paint lift
  2. thanks for all the replies folks. This is just going to be a quick update as I'm sitting waiting for my flight. During the week while modeling was not really a top priority I did spend some time in the basement to while away an hour or two and take my mind off things. A welcome little diversion. The brain hasn't been functioning a full capacity these last few days so I wasn't about to start anything complex or with a difficulty level of greater than hmmnnnnn. The roof seemed like a good candidate. It needed a hole. As long as I managed to put it in the right place with the right dimensions it was just a case of scribing lines until the roof fell out - or at least the part I didn't want, to fall out. 10 minutes later with a little help from the scribing tool and we have a hole. It even looks to be in the right spot. Step n+1: Cut a piece of plasticard as the starting point for the pop top roof. For the radiused corners I simply help a metal washer against the card as I filed away material as that gave me a reasonable change of having the 4 corners the same. Next was to add the side drops. More plasticard (I'm going old school on this one) with some small fillets to keep everything square Everything went according to plan and the base of the pop top sits evenly on the roof. So far so good. For rigidity I used 0.75mm card stock. It was great for the purpose of keeping everything square and not flopping about but it did have one downside. Due to the thickness of the card, the outer face stands off from the roof my a significant amount, even after chamfering the inside edge as you can see here. The answer was to laminate a sheet of 0.2mm card on the outer face. The thinner card could slip further down the outer face and make a nice neat seam against the roof. Once the glue set, the excess was trimmed off nice and flush. For the top of the pop top, another piece of plasticard came into play. I formed a lip on the underside by laminating strips of 0.75 x Something or other to the main part leaving gaps at each corner. That allowed me to fit small squares of card that could be marked up and trimmed to shape leaving a nice even(ish) lip all around. Then came another hole. This one took a lot longer to figure out as I replaced the original roof vent with a larger screened version and I only had a few reference shots from various angles to try and work out it's size and location, so this is pretty much guesswork. The next part was a lot trickier than I anticipated... until I had one of those 'doh! moments. Originally I tried using plasticard to form the front and rear of the pop top, but after several attempts I gave up that idea - there were too many curves in curves going on and my effort just looked downright shoddy to be honest. I then thought about using Milliput - just blob it all on, get a rough shape and when cured just file it all to shape. The downside to that method is that I'd have to wait overnight until the milliput cured. However, that set off a chain of thought electrons bumping around inside my head and some evolutionary thought process eventually made it's way from milliput to resin. I have bottles of the stuff. Well, one bottle and it's got a litre of resin in it, and I also have a light saber. That lead to hendies experimental pop top forming process. I covered the roof in BMF and simply painted in layers of resin hitting it with the light saber after each pass. I've never seen smoke come off resin like that before! Like this. This one looks fairly neat but that's because this is a second pass - I had already filed down the excess and had a few small gaps that needed taken care of. Before I got past the first filing stage it looked like this. Not pretty but functional. Hey, I'll take what I can get here. The reason for the second pass was: if you look closely at the shot above, on that lower right corner you will see the BMF lifting from the bodyshell. As the resin was curing, it was shrinking, and that shrinking causes the resin to pull the BMF from the plastic body. That meant I had a small gap under each corner when it was all filled and cured. The fix was easy - just prise the pop top from the roof, paint on some more resin on both the top of the roof and on the underside of my resin carbuncle. Press the two together and zap it with the lightsaber again. Once filed to shape it fitted very nicely. I'll finish up with this terrible out of focus photo but I hope you can see that the pop top now follows the roof contour very closely indeed. Just resting as it is, there is the slightest of gaps but that disappears with the lightest of pressure. Another task completed. Certainly not as sexy as the engine but arguably much more important as the pop top will be a focus point of the finished build whereas the engine will be tucked away where no one but the most inquisitive will ever see it, or even know it's there. Well that's it I'm afraid, this will definitely be the last update for a few weeks now. I have an airport to catch.
  3. Wasn't that shark called Bruce by the crew?
  4. Thanks Mark - the gymnastics will come later as I attempt the wiring Magic? It's the Devils helix I tell you. Or is that Hellix? consensus so far seems to be on the hose. Dunno why I bothered with the rest of the engine to be honest. I should have just have filled the engine bay with lots of . thanks Jeroen The way the kit is designed there's no room for any of the fancy gubbinses forward of the firewall. I'm sticking to that excuse. I just knew you were going to say that Giorgio. First you want paint, then when you get paint you're still not satisfied. Now you want in-focus photos? Demanding... have I said that about you? well you are. thanks Pouln. The hoses make a nice distraction from the shades of dark black and dark grey don't they? Thanks Jochen. Luckily I never had to venture into the engine bay too many times on mine other than for standard servicing like changing the points and cleaning out the air filter. The worst job was replacing the spring tubes for the tappets - without removing the cylinder heads. you too huh? thanks Ian. That doesn't sound like fun... on any occasion. I've managed an hour or two on the bus since my last update so thought I would share. My long awaited paint supply from Amazon arrived only for me to discover I had ordered the wrong darn color. I'm thought they switched the order on me after I placed the order but unless Amazon is lying, I ordered what I ordered. Being the positive sort of chap I am I looked at it and said... well it's close enough. Close enough at least to let me get on with the engine bay. While it may not be the exact color I should have ordered it was close enough considering that the engine bay gets all grotty and since it's closed up 99.9% of the time, it's a slightly different shade of orangey yellow from the outside of the bus which has experienced UK weather for 25+ years. That allowed me to get the engine deck painted. My masking was a bit sloppy but since there's a big rubber seal in there I'm pretending the seal isn't 100% aligned with the closure. and now that I've seen the quality of the photos falling out of my old camera compared to the shot I took on my phone the other day, that last shot looks terrible, but not quite as terrible as this one coming up. The front wheel arches in the 1:1 are covered in a textured vinyl ehhrrrr... cover. The kit plastic is very smooth so I went with my old fallback here to provide some texture - the cigarette packet liner. The embossing on the liner is so fine it's almost unnoticeable - but just enough to add a visual wotsit without actually drawing the eye. The texture is the same both sides so I went with gluing the tinfoil side to the plastic as the paper takes paint really well. As paper normally does 'doh!...so it should service my rough handling later Once I had papered the wheel arches, it all got a coat of white primer from SMS. I figured it's going to take a lot to cover that orange plastic and what better than white primer under white paint to give me half a chance of covering the dayglo orange plastic I then had a wonderful time trying to mix up a suitable grey for the vinyl covers on the back of the support panels. I'm bad enough at picking the right color straight out of the pot - if it doesn't come already color matched and I have to slosh stuff around to make a custom color, I'm hopeless. I think I might have got away with it this time, tho' whether I'll be able to match that color again when the time comes for the rest of the interior panels is another story. Black is the color of my wheel arches. They, along with the grey panels on the reverse need a coat of shiny satin and maybe a (very) light dusting of matt to make it look more vinyl'ish. Then it all needs dirtied up with accumulated grimes and droppings. On their own they all look a bit sparse, and even false to some extent, but in context i.e. actually inside the bus, things start to look more convincing After that it was time to get back to the engine. After it had received the gloss coat to seal in the "rust", which it did, then made the rust completely invisible, it got a flat coat to tone things down. It seems I shall have to re-add all the rusting and weathering once I've finished manhandling the engine and it's greeblies. Assembling the engine was easy. The wiring - not so much. When I was doing the wiring, I used the thinnest wires I had. I found the red wire from the distributor to the coil in a drawer, and I only had a short length of it. The black spark plug wires looked fine when I was using the almost obsolete MkI eyeball, but now I see them in this shot I realise they look way out of scale. I was hoping not to have to purchase some of those extortionately priced 1/24 scale auto accessories but looking at this I don't think I have an option. This is the effect I'll be going after. See! I did have shiny hoses. I think that photo was taken not long after I got the bus and before I'd put any time or effort into cleaning up the engine bay. It did clean up some but as you can imagine, there's only so much you can do with nearly 30 years worth of accumulated oil and grime. Surprisingly it still all fits together, but overall way too clean. Lots of grim to be added to that later. and another shot just because. The real bonus of course is that it all fits within the Revell shell and should look reasonably convincing once all the grime and greeblies are added My modeling is probably going to be curtailed somewhat due to factors outside my control so this will probably be my last update for several weeks. I shall still pop into the forum and be rude to people as time allows but modeling isn't going to be happening for a few weeks at least. You'll all need to go and find some other shiny objects for a while oh, here you go then...
  5. Don't know what you're concerned about. That paint job looks great
  6. And then there's the skills and craftsmanship of those who took those 2 dimensional drawings and manufactured all the necessary jigs and fixtures to actually build the aircraft
  7. I'm not sure I've ever had the need to try and tell the sex of a hinge. This can be a funny old forum and sometimes you learn things you never even knew could/should be learned. Admirable bit wrangling Tony and now the boring old basic shape is done you can get down and dirty and revel in the joy of detailing. In that scale I hope you can tell your Avdels from your Choberts
  8. I think I've got past the "is it going to print or not" phase now Johnny. I have enough confidence in the equipment and technology to know that if it doesn't print - it's obviously my fault so I just need to look at what I've done wrong and do it right next time. Lid and other hatches will be posed in the open direction - just like a Wessex being serviced. I see what you mean Jeroen. They didn't really do much better with this release either. Even if they had modeled the right engine I think I would still be doing my own. Just hop on a plane and bring your own airbrush. I'll supply the paint Giorgio. I used to be able to do that many years ago but the shapes were generally reminiscent of what I had eaten earlier that day thanks Terry. Sometimes it is and other times it'll rear its ugly head and bite you in the... see later in this post damn... forgot the starter motor thankfully Jochen reminded me (if my google translation is up to scratch) thanks CC I've seen your van and there's nothing to be ashamed about - that is a damn fine looking result. I'd have that in my cabinet any day of the week any more of this and I'm going to start blushing and now I'm blushing thanks Mark John this is way more fun that burning innocent young maidens at the stake Back from my travels again and after a goods night rest I descended into the Hendungeon this morning to see what I had to play with. It's alway nice to start with the easy less challenging things on the list so I dusted down the printed grill and tried it on for size after cleaning up the gaping hole I left behind last week. I think I can say I'm fairly pleased with the result. The hole needs a little tweaking but the grill is a pretty good fit. The hardest part of the job will be fitting the grill to leave a nice even gap all around, so I shall studiously avoid that task for many weeks to come no doubt. After humming and hawing for days on this I bit the bullet and went ahead and fixed the two divider/seat/support panels in place I'd been arguing with myself about when was the right time to fit these and what problems were going to arise once they were in place. Painting will be a little more awkward but I think I can work around them. I think I just glued them in to convince myself that I was actually making some progress Then finished off the interior renovations with the fuel filler cover - which I had previously marked in the wrong location - hence the nice little line of filler in the sidewall. It was time to start work on that engine though. It had been sitting staring at me all last week so the challenge was accepted. I gave the lump an overall coat of satin black. It looked really nice in that satin sheen and it was almost a shame to begin destroying it. For reasons best beknown to anyone other than me I had opted to print the inlet manifold as an integral part of the lump. This made for a rather interesting masking challenge. Can you see what I'm doing here? Nope? Is this any better? Nope? Thought not. Well, here it is all painted up. Can you tell the difference? Probably not. I use pale burnt metal as a base then followed that up with exhaust manifold (both alclads), but got a bit heavy fingered on the pale burnt metal at the center. If things go accordign to plan it shouldn't be too noticeable once it's all busied up. I'm going for a well used look. Well used but maintained I hope, at least that is the target. I'm using a couple of reference shots I have of my old engine for the "weathering" at which I am usually less than adept, but I'll give it a go anbd see what happens. At worst I can always close the engine lid. This is th fan housing that sits at the rear of the engine. I tried dry brushing testors "rust" but it looked terrible so I resorted to using pastels and scraped a few rusty browny colors over the housing. My camera is well past it's sell by date and this is about the best shot I could get of the housing. Honest guv - it looks way better in the flesh DIstributor. Not really a lot else to say about it is there. It's a distributor. It's got a wire on it. and 5 holes on top. This on I am really rather pleased with. This is the air filter housing. Once again I used the pastels to create the rust effect and it really seemed to work out this time (as did the macro lens on the camera for once) Then I got sort of carried away with the construction side fo things and fell into a trance, completely forgetting to take any photos along the way. ... until I got to this point Mostly dry fitted at this point. I was just testing the waters to see how easy difficult it is going to be to wire this little lump. Moderately difficult for the most part I'd say, and downright nasty for a few bits once more wires get added. Note the shiny corrugated air hose in the shot above. In the last episode I had printed those hoses as plain hoses without any corrugations, and they looked boring. I had avoided the corrugations as when I tried to add those a week or two back, it proved to be very difficult. This time however, I decided I was going in for the kill. Once I had figured out the method - i.e. watched a few videos on youtube - I had a go. In SolidWorks it was not at all intuitive. I had the basic shape, essentially a circle swept along a 3 dimensional curve. I then had to add a helix, another circle normal to the helix, and then force the helix to follow the 3 dimensional curve. The first two hoses were straightforward enough but the third one put up a fight. Eventually I blew SolidWorks brains' out. Whenever I forced the helix to follow the 3d curve, it did as I asked - but managed to lose the original swept hose. Or bits of it as it would appear from this screenshot. Eventually I gave in and created an assembly from the original plain hose, and dropped the corrugated wotsit right on top of it and created an STL form that assembly. Then Chitubox wouldn't import the STL. I faffed around for a little bit before just choosing the easy route. I dropped the plain hose into Chitubox and then dropped the corrugated hose on top of that. In essence I just overlaid two separate models in Chitubox and it printed the model fine. I probably wasted a good couple of hours figuring that one out. A little bit more playing around brought this. I think the corrugated hoses really bring it to life. The big rubber tube running from the air filter to the carb intake is still wet so I will tone that down later when it's dry It's still early days for this old lump and there is still a lot of work to do with this, but this is way better than I Imagined it would turn out so I'm very happy. Now I just have to remember where hoses ran from, and where to, and all the other little wiring strands. It should be a fun endeavor To close out - I got fed up trying to get a decent shot with that camera so tried my phone to see how that turned out until next time...
  9. I hope Mrs Wossername & child got out safely before the bus careered onto it's side.
  10. I hate it when you do close up shots like that. It makes my stuff look like I've used a paint roller and really brings home how poor my painting skills are. Mrs Mark.au is going to be very pleased (and rightly so) with your her model when your done.
  11. a bit more than decent Steve. That is one damn fine paint job. That 'awk is going to be a wonderful display base for your canopy model
  12. I don't know what you're blethering on about. It looks easy from where I'm sitting Nice job though . Those wheel bays look much better.
  13. Thanks for the info CC. I'm very familiar with shrinkage and the reasons behind it - my day job is heavily injection molding focused. While not exactly the same, there are many parallels that can be drawn between the two processes and the molecular bonding/shrinkage is one of those. For clarification, that 30 - 60 minute drying time is not an absolute - sometimes I will leave the print to dry overnight (all depending upon when the print finishes). On occasion I have used the airbrush to blow dry parts ready for post cure. I do try not to leave them longer than that though. I have only ever used Elegoos resins and I have never found the need to change as those resins work well for me. I wonder if the resin itself is to blame for the excessive shrinkage?
  14. Are you doing any post-curing after the parts come out of the vat? I'm really surprised by the amount of shrinkage you are seeing in your prints. I've been printing various objects for several years now and I've never seen anything close to that level of shrinkage. I haven't done any studies per se, but on the occasions I have measured parts (where I need tight dimensional accuracy) I have only measured shrinkage in tenths of a millimeter. If I remember correctly I saw shrinkage of around 0.3mm in a thin walled part nearly 40mm long. One thing I have seen is: in parts that haven't been post cured, the resin will continue to shrink and dry out until the parts start pulling themselves apart, i.e. cracks will start to appear. This process takes place over several months though. When parts are first printed, they are not fully cured when they come out of the printer - each layer is cured enough to hold its shape well enough for the next layer to be printed. I use an Elegoo Mars with standard elegoo resin. I post cure with either a UV pen, a UV nail lamp, or simple daylight. It all depends upon size, geometry, and how soon I want to start using the part. After a print run I will wash the parts in a 2 bath IPA, then let parts dry naturally. This usually happens in 30 minutes to an hour. At that point I will do the post cure. This is a model I designed, printed, and assembled using entirely 3D printed parts, of which there were around 100 or more printed parts. If I experienced the degree of shrinkage you are describing I would never have been able to assemble the model as each part will shrink differently according to things like wall thickness, geometry, overall mass, and print orientation. I should mention that model is 1/48 scale so the wingspan is around 300mm or more. I can't help but think that something is amiss, either in your setup, or in your process.
  15. Ouch. Sorry to hear that Bill. I'm sure you will manage to perform some battle damage repair to bring her back to life
  16. a fine job sir. Those markings look very nice and really bring the airframe to life.
  17. Then wait no longer Tony. thanks Giorgio. I might even start coloring it in soon And not content with Dewey #1 you've gone and started a Laughing Robot in your Firefly build. Is he laughing? or just very happy? I can't really tell. thanks Houston. There's still plenty of time for me to stuff this one up though. at least I didn't make a rude little robor like the little blighter wot was in the middle of Tony's wingfold. Family forum tsk. tsk. I think it's a subconscious thing Steve - all those walks in the wilderness... I think you are secretly hankering for your own VW bus so you can drive and just lay up whenever you spy an interesting spot. Talking of stuffing things up. Here's another piece of printery that was knocked out a few days ago for the sliding door handle recess. I decided that there was no way I could reasonably attempt to carve out the required shape, with nice uniform curves, nice chamfers, and end up with something that looked half decent. Then again, I don't have to - I have a printer and for items like this it is ideal. All I need to do is cut out a squarish hole, glue in the resin part and fettle it all back nice and smooth again. If only I could measure properly and not cut the bloomin' hole too big the job would be a lot easier. No big deal as I can just modify the model to fit the hole and reprint it. Thank heavens for modern technology. As I'm working my way through this kit it seems that every time I pick up a part I see some modification or other that needs done. In some cases, it really doesn't need doing but I just can't help myself sometimes. Take the front panel for instance - the grill was decently molded and for a snap together kit was perfectly adequate. But... Of course I couldn't leave it alone as I thought I could make it better so once again it was out with the scriber and razor saw and now we've gone and made another hole. It appears I am making lots of holes in this kit. If all goes well that particular hole should be filled with one of these, if I've measured things properly this time. I've also decided that I want to replace the headlights as the kit headlights have nice big slots in 'em for the glass to snap into. Despite all this new fangled alchemy and technology sometimes it's good to go old school. Ergo, I stuck some bits of styrene to another bit of styrene. I haven't lost my touch have I? Take that Elegoo! What you can't really see here because it's white on white is that those are strips of half round rod on a mainly flat piece that has radiused edges as well as radiused corners. Mainly because the kit, being essentially a toy, is missing some features that I thought should be there and will also add some visual interest. (Why do we keep saying that when we know the parts are going to be almost certainly invisible once the thing is buttoned up?). Anyways, since I had discarded the kit engine and all the associated gubbinses that go along with it, namely the firewall - I needed to make a new, more accurate firewall and on that firewall is a muckle big panel that allows access to the fuel tank. (but if you ever wanted to remove it, you had to take the engine out first, so I never did). You may have noticed my array of little rivets in that last shot. I printed off a bunch of those during the week and the 0.8mm rivets made a fine job of looking like screws holding that panel in place. At least I hope they will after it's all colored in. More to the point, the firewall is now located more accurately in relation to the rear wheel arches The engine though. That's what you're all here for innit? You want to see the engine and how it turned out. So did I. Here you go then. An engine and a selection of engine bits and bobs. From bottom left going across we have an alternator, coil, distributor (for a FOUR cylinder engine ), the flat four itself, and on the right, the air filter housing. ABove that is the engine fan housing, then above that a number of hoses, duplicate parts, and a couple of transmission housings. What? You can't see the detail How's this then? Surprisingly the bits even fit together in the way they were intended. I know I should be getting used to this by now but each time I print something I'm still impressed by the amount of detail that machine is capable of. I'm particularly fond of the carburettor though the picture really doesn't do the print justice. Somehow I am going to have to try and add all the wiring in there. Not a lot of space to work in but without the wiring the engine isn't going to look anywhere near as good as it potentially can. Oops, nearly forgot the underside of the engine. The big question hanging over my head has always been: Is the darn thing going to fit? The transmission housing? Not so much. That's no surprise at all though as I changed my plans between the last test print and this one. I knew the position of the engine had to change so I had cut more out of the floor pan to allow the engine to move back, sorry, forwards. I wasn't entirely sure of the final position as it depended upon a number of factors aligning with the planets so there was still a lot of guesswork going on at this point. However, printing the transmission housing has allowed me to verify what the final design should look like as I can now see where I need to add cutouts, notches and so on and how it should all mate up to the kit floorpan/chassis. Okay, that's the undersides... what about up top then? Today is one of those days where the gods don't decide to throw a spanner in the works. It fits! There's even a tiny little bit of room above the fan casing too. Just like the real thing. It took a fair bit of faffing about though. The (1:1) engine sits on a carrier plate that sits just above the rear valance panel so I had to thicken up that section in the 3D model. It was a case of moving some parts up, moving some parts down, repositioning a bit here and there and just general moving things until it worked. I'm glad that is over. I've had two eight hour sessions concentrating on that engine and ancillaries as I felt I needed to conquer that before I could really start to progress in this build. I surpassed my expectations on that count. Now I just need to get my hands on the "correct" paint colors, and while I'm doing that I can make a start coloring in the engine,and start looking for really really really tiny little thin wires. I hope you enjoyed your weekend folks. Toodle pip.
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