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Everything posted by hendie

  1. At least there's no MDC to worry about on this one. Them transparencies are almost, sorry... are mesmerizing in their transparencynessism. Makes mine look like sandpaper by comparison
  2. If it wasn't for the sheer size of that canopy, this would be an ideal kit for 3d printing. If I ever get bored I might even have a go, now that I (think) I have figured out the issues in vac forming
  3. Really nice work with the dirty stuff Johnny. Care to share a bit more detail about how you knock it all back? I always seem to remove almost all of it leaving it only in panel lines which is not the effect I'm after. Your work always looks way more realistic then any of my attempts
  4. OOhhh blimey. It's been a while since I've been through these doors isn't it? You will probably be very surprised to hear that I have actually been doing some fettling on this over the last week or two. Nothing major, but fettling nonetheless. I have the printer going full steam ahead printing Wapiti parts so while that was chugging away... This build hit a wall when I had to reshape the underside and remove those nasty nasty seafaring lumps to get rid of the Waspness and start transforming it into a real aircraft. I had used plastic filler and it wasn't really working out so this was put on the shelf and I got on with other things, but my recent experience with milliput and the success I had on the Whirlwind tail section prompted me to try again. It worked. (of course, completely forgot to take any photos so you'll just have to believe me) Following the success of the belly bloating I went for something simple to get me back in to the way of things. That's really just an excuse to avoid saying that I had completely forgot where I was with this build and what my plans were. The center console seemed an easy target. I've also bookmarked @Chewbacca's wonderful Wasp thread as it provided many useful details that I would not otherwise have come across. One of the things I'm not too keen on with this kit is the fact that you have to fit the glassware very early on. Transparencies are my Nemesis and I've come to cringe every time I have to go near one. With this build, those clear bits have to go on pretty much at the start because you can't fit anything or paint anything without them in place. Hey ho. On we go. I used my favorite diluted PVA method to stick 'em in The glassware isn't that great to start with and the fit is definitely a bit iffy, but I'm not going to fret too much over it. Despite how these look, they cleaned up reasonably well. Well, better than how they look here. With the front see-throughs in place I could get the floor glued into position, followed by the rear bulkhead. Note the transmission deck off to the side - a read through Chewbacca's thread reminded me of his discovery that there is a well in the middle of the deck and not flat as I previously believed, and as Fujimi would have you model it. That lead me to dog out my previous work and replace it with a lowered section. Getting all excited at the progress I thought I could attempt something a little bit more difficult. Rain channels to be precise. There's nothing on the kit to represent the very noticeable rain channels. Thinking about it was a lot easier than doing it. I searched though all the scraps and spares and couldn't find anything suitable so it was back to the old fallback - wire. I used masking tape to mark out where the rain channel terminated, that's be the corner where the two strips of tape cross over, then drilled a 0.4 mm hole at those two locations. SS wire was then bent to shape and pushed through the holes, then secured in place. It was that easy. No it wasn't . It took a good half dozen attempts to get the bends in the wire at the right place so they would fit through the holes and give me a good approximation of the real thing Eventually... Then the wire was filed down a tad to have that flattened look on top. In this shot it looks like there's a slight gap under the wire - I checked and there isn't - that's the remnants of black paint making it look like a shadow. I also scribed in the nose panel and if I remember later I'll add the fasteners too. Hinges will go on later as they're bound to get obliterated between now and paint. There's a little bit of greebling that can be accomplished prior to turning it into a greenhouse so a few holes were cut, and some paneling added. All of which then had to be revised later. More wires, sorry, rain strips around the nose. If you look dead on the nose they are slightly asymmetrical - I made the rookie mistake of using the rivet lines on the kit as a guide, only to notice after I had done this that the kit detail wasn't symmetrical. I should mention that for these strips I scribed a Vee groove into the plastic to give the wire a channel to lay in, which also (planned of course!) made them not quite so proud of the fuselage as the rain guide on top of the nose. I still haven't decided whether to file them flat or not, but there's plenty of time before I need to commit to that. A more pressing issue was the fact that the transmission deck did not fit as nicely as it should. I put this down to my lack of forethought and using so much plastic filler. I think all that filler had the effect of warping the sides in slightly, thus preventing the deck from sitting down in its nest. Easy remedy - glue in two sections of big thick runner ... which can then be shimmed out when cured in order to get the fuselage sides to flex outwards and allow the transmission deck to fall into place. Like so After gazing at this for some time I came to really dislike the holes I had cut for the steps just aft of the cabin, so while I was loading up another batch of Wapiti bits I threw in a couple of step plates. I could then enlarge the nasty holes and plug them with these nice little steps. Much nicer. Another miss by Fujimi, and it may not be a miss, but certainly for the Scout (not sure about the Wasp) there were a couple of fluted ribs missing between the mina body and the tail. For this I used 0.6mm rod, and as with the rain guides, I first scribed a small channel as a guide, then used a Vee shaped scribing tool to deepen the groove and allow the rod to sit in the slot. It was at this point that I realized I had made the inset compartment in that area too deep, so added a thicker section of styrene on the lower "shelf" to provide some area between the fluted rib and the compartment. Now I may have already mentioned that canopies/transparencies/clear bits are my nemesis. I say that because well, they're my nemesis. This build is going to prove no different. Exhibit A: Big glass dome fitted on top. It sort of fits on this side if I press down really hard. Well, some of it sort of fits. The rear quarter is off doing its own thing. And don't even look at the front join to the nose. Just don't! But taking a gander at t'other side proves just why I hate these things so much. It's nowhere near a fit. The only thing that fits at this point is me. The rear quarter on this side doesn't even belong on this aircraft. That leaves me in a quandary. - And before anyone dares to suggest it - NO! I'm not making a plunge mold or vac-form for this one. I'm just not. Okay? I think I can deal with some of this non-fitting-ness, though I'm almost certain I'm going to have to cut off the rear quarters and plunge mold those somehow. I'm also tempted to remove the doors as most of 660 Sqn flew without the doors on. That would give two benefits; 1, you could see inside, and 2, I don't need to worry about those door frames. Essentially, the canopy would fall where it falls, and without door frames, you wouldn't (shouldn't?) be able to tell that it's not in the right place. Thoughts from the hive on that one? Doors or no doors? While I'm losing sleep over that fun challenge, I had to greeble to calm myself down. This greeble involved taking a piece of brass square tube, and filing the top half off to leave me with a 'U' channel which was then mitered on the front end, and the side walls removed on the back end, leaving just a tab. Which was duly fitted to the transmission deck to masquerade as a fuel filler/drain channel. The plastic on this kit is like petrified wood. The scriber barely makes an impression on it and even the chisels were having a hard time. I had to use so much force to get anywhere I was in imminent danger of lancing myself There we are then. Temporarily back in action. I will try and pay a bit more attention to this build, but bits of Wapiti are calling at me and I've only a few more bits to print before I can (theoretically) start assembling it. Dib Dib chaps. See you at the next campfire.
  5. Terry, in theory, yes they can. I tried that when printing the window rubbers for my Whirlwind. However, I found that everything printed flat - with no real profile. Even when I changed the height of the parts I still got the same result. I know it's probably something to do with my settings and I'm sure other folks can do it. There would be a real danger of destroying the parts while attempting to remove them from the build plate though. Hey, we gotta give Steve something to do, right?
  6. Standard Elegoo grey resin at 0.01mm layer thickness with a 7 second cure time. With these particular parts it's not so much about the settings but getting the supports in the right place. I tried to position them anywhere there was a direction change as that angle change was more likely to put stress on the part as it was pulled from the FEP. No need for hot water as these parts haven't been fully cured yet. Steve's tape method for support removal is a good one (must remember that), as is the canopy sandwich for curing them into the correct shape. Uve glue, cyano, and Klear are all good options for fixing in place. Maybe a strategic dot of cyano at the ends, and Klear along the lengths? If they hold their shape well enough perhaps they only need glued at opposite ends? Not sure how well they would behave long term with that though. Great photos Steve, and some good ideas on the support removal and curing options. You made it sound like I actually knew what I was doing and there was some skill involved when really it was just a few mouse clicks and pushing a button or two
  7. Outstanding result Bill. Worth every drop of blood, sweat, and tears exerted.
  8. That looks pretty spectacular Bill. Did the wet thread/pva glue work? Or did you resort to some other form of witchcraft?
  9. I'll try and add links later - I'm supposed to be working at the mo, and doing it on the phone is a real pita Page 1 of this build... Oops, can't get the link to work but these photos should explain the process
  10. Lovely work again. That UP is looking great. I sort of scratch built a wicker seat in either my Camel, or F2b thread (I think). It's been a while but I seem to remember doing something seat wise in one or both of those threads. Don't quote me in that though
  11. Saga indeed. Remind me... when are we going to see some actual colors on this beast Giorgio? there's so many Grey's and blacks on this it reminds me of a Scottish summer. It is looking rather dandy though
  12. Lovely work Richie. A tip for the bezels. I often cut slivers of tube, then I drop it over a rat tail file and keep rotating the part against the file with my thumb and fingers - you can get down to some really fine wall thicknesses that way
  13. I've espoused many things in my time, and generally, they're all simple. I try and keep it to two syllables at most otherwise it gets complicated. Nice chiseling Steve. The way your skills are progressing you'll be able to knock out a helicopter soon. Now, that will be a build to watch. You're right though - pretty much everything can be boiled down to simple.geometric shapes. The trick is to recognise which one is simplest and start from there, building (or subtracting) one simple shape at a time.
  14. I'll be very interested in seeing how your decal extravaganza plays out Tony. If it's any help, the guy that produced Gator Grip is back in business, now producing decals - and he can print white. It certainly looks like you've broken the back of this build and are starting to enter the home straight.
  15. A little, but a huge step forward. The build sort of stalled when I hit problems trying to print the upper wing center section. I must have printed half a dozen and each one had issues with the wing profile. Here's three samples and you can see that the cross section at the wing joint is just not up to scratch. It's all over the place. Now here's my latest print that I ran off this week. On the left we have the upper wing outer section, and on the right we have the upper wing center section. I'm very happy with how this has turned out now. It was all down to print orientation. Previously I had always tried printing the wing from the leading edge rearwards, and changing the upright angle to try and get it to print better. The reason I did it that way is because I wanted to avoid having to sand/file the wing joints if at all possible. As you are all probably well aware, it is very difficult to file a perfectly flat edge especially perpendicular to a given surface. In the end I decided to print the wing section from port to starboard instead of leading edge to trailing edge. That was what made all the difference. After filing - I made up a fixture to help keep the file straight and perpendicular, and this is the resultant joint. Not perfect, but I'll be joining the wings using Tony's recommended Light Saber and Goo method so I think it will turn good in the end. This is the full upper wing just dry fitted, but the dihedral is there and I don't think it will take much work to knock that into shape. I lost some of the location holes for things like the struts etc. due to the print orientation, but there's enough of a mark for me to see the positions clearly so I'll just manually drill those later. I have been fretting over this issue for months so really glad I finally have it resolved, as without wings it wasn't going to be much of a Wapiti. Now here's something interesting. This is a test section of wing I printed way back at the beginning - note how the thin section have started cracking. It should be no surprise really as I had never actually cured this part with UV, so over all those months it's been continuously drying out until it reached the point where the material started breaking itself up. When I was actively working on this build I purposely did not cure the parts as I wanted the fuselage complete before I hit it with UV's to avoid any fit problems with shrinkage/warping of the separate components. I can see a little bit of shrinkage going on so... I think I may reprint these when I'm ready and get them assembled and cured in a reasonable timeframe instead of leaving them for months. It won't take long to catch back up to where I left off, and now that I have the wing profile issues resolved I feel a renewed enthusiasm for this build, so I think this may be next on the agenda after the Whirlwind.
  16. Thanks to all who commented - much appreciated as always. I'm in a bit of a rush this weekend so haven't got time to feed the pigeons and there's a lot to get through so without further wotsits... Oh, before I forget, Bill - thanks for posting that info on the yellow stripes. I'll definitely have to look into that as I feel there will be more helo's in my life sometime After leaving you all last week, I focused on getting the rotor head and blades up to speed for the finishing line. The yellow stripes were applied, the blade tips sprayed, and a bit of detail painting on the mechanical gubbinses. But I wasn't too happy with the green I had chosen. I had picked a green other than the humbrol I had used on the fuselage as I wanted some differentiation going on, unfortunately the green I had chosen was a bit too vibrant for my liking. It doesn't look so bad in the photo here, but the difference in hue was far too strong. Time to learn a new skill then I fear. I knocked the color back by spraying a very thinned coat of light grey over the surfaces. I sprayed from leading edge to trailing edge to try and achieve some "weathering" effects. After that I sprayed along the length of the blade a few times but was deliberately heavier on the outboard edge as I figured they would be slightly more worn due to the relative airspeeds along the blades Once that was done, a flat coat was applied to bring it all together and seal things in. I'm a lot happier with those blades now. In other news, I've been reading about other peoples woes using Alclad paints. Something I noticed in this and other builds is that the Alclad flat coat, while giving a great finish, always seems to remain tacky for a week or more. I used Testors flat coat on the blades and it sprayed beautifully and was perfectly dry within 30 minutes. I think I'm officially dropping the Alclad clears from my Armory with immediate effect. Wile I was fading the main rotor blades, I remembered to do the same with the tail rotor. . Now it was time for the really delicate stuff. Scale model rotor heads are certainly not the easiest things to handle, and one single slip of concentration can destroy and blade or worse. Another issue I faced with printing the rotor head and trying to keep things in scale was that the actual mounting area for the blades was less than ideal. About 2mm or thereabouts. To give this rotorhead some chance of success I pinned the ends of each blade, then filed a small Vee slot on the rotor head for the pin to locate in. I did this with both the upper and lower head castings so that they would in effect, trap the pin in place when assembled... then remembered that I was using a 2mm diameter tube as the main shaft holding everything together, and it had to pass through one rotor casting and into the top casting to secure everything. That meant that the locating/strengthening pins I was using were about 1mm in length. Ouch. Talk about fragile. Even with superglue securing the pins, the moment along those blades was putting a lot of stress on that joint. a test fit showed that it worked so that was a bonus. The blades could be doing with having just a little less droop, but they do pass over the spine without chopping the tail off which is the main thing. Top casting fitted to the rotor head. It's looking just complicated enough to be believable as an assembly. dry fit of the tail rotor to check nothing is amiss. Cor... things are fairly moving along this week. One of those gratuitous feel good shots. I think this could pass for a WW HAR10 she's actually quite mean and business looking Close up of the rotor head assembly (still not finished yet) This shot shows the issue of the lever moment better - look how small a purchase area the blade root has within the head itself. (note to self - I've knocked off the torque link ) Just as a reminder, here are the original kit parts Nope, that's not perspective causing the huge size disparity - the width of the blades is the same on both versions here. The kit part really is that big. After all that fun stuff, it was off with her head again. This time to add the droop stops, which were then painted after this shot was taken. Ah... my paint weathering attempt shows up on the underside of the blades in this shot. My first attempt wasn't a total failure. Time for greebles. The aerial was fitted. Followed by the transmission cover on the tail pylon Sliding window - I even remembered to add the handles 'Nuther sliding window. The rescue hoist, and I just remembered in time to fit the pitot. Oh, and you can see I finally fitted the wipers What a job that was. It must have taken me all of 45 minutes to fit both of those. Of course one broke, then blatantly refused to join back together for about 20 minutes of cursing. Shame about the windscreen though - I really should have taken more care of trying to keep the inner surfaces clean. and this one's for Crisp. I even remembered to add the eyebolt on top of the Jesus nut. The cabin door was fitted using E6k. At the moment it's only secured at the top. I'm waiting for the E6k to cure as I need to flex the door inwards at the bottom to meet the fuselage. I believe, and I may well be wrong, but I think that is everything with the exception of the roundels. Hopefully they will be here next week so they can get fitted and I can add this one to the cabinet. In the meantime I'll bore you with some more shots Whirlwindy enough? Hey, you can even see the droop stops. Who'd have though I could have wrangled a HAR10 out of that old H19 from 1959? For the most part it has been a fun build. There were a couple of hair pulling moments, but on the whole, a very enjoyable build. I just need to figure out which kit gets priority next. Once the roundels come in, I'll post the end results and close this build out - Many thanks to all of you who tagged along for the ride, and to all those who commented and offered help & suggestions throughout the build. Oh crud... just remembered - I still have to add the pitch change rods on the rotor head. I knew there was something I had missed. If anyone spots any other omissions, let me know (you know who you are, Bill!) I don't know if I'll get that done this weekend as we're off to a Pow Wow tomorrow. I've never been to one before so it should be an interesting experience.
  17. I have the same issues with Klear pooling Steve. Unless you sit there for a few hours dabbing at a corner with some kitchen roll, there's always some unwanted ripple showing up. I got around it on the WW by dipping it before I cut it to size. That rear canopy section looks fantastic. ( as does the rest of the airframe). P.S. I think you got away with mentioning the primer word without Giorgio noticing.
  18. Johnny, I thought long and hard before investing in one, and I was much like you - I could only think of one or two things that I would be likely to print. How wrong I was! The price these days is almost neglible. I think you can buy the version I have for the same price as two decent kits. Since I've had it I think the longest it's lain idle is about two weeks. Whether it's a baby Yoda for the daughter, or a Wapiti for me, or some little gizzit for the home, there's always something cropping up that's worth printing.
  19. Close Terry, but that Wasp is a Scout, or will be one day. Maybe. That build kind of stalled when I had to do some major surgery to the underside, but I've got that rectified now so this may be making a reappearance sometime soon I'll probably carry on with the Scout, which was originally a diversion from Pegasus, as a diversion from the Spitfire. I may be a heretic, but I just can't get excited by a Spitfire build (apart from Herr Fritag's of course - goes without saying dunnit?. Which I just said. Oops). It's a beautiful aircraft, or at least some of them are/were, but there are just so many builds on BM they've become rather mundane. However, since 28 flew them at one point, I need to do one to complete the collection. But excited by it? Sorry. That may be my first ootb build.
  20. Bill, whenever I have to use thread I soak it in water first then run PVA glue along it to help minimize the stragglers, and it also helps put a set into the thread when dry. Worth a trial run maybe?
  21. lovely update Johnny. I'm jealous of so many things - the chesterfield (gotta love 'em), the man cave (mine is a lot more utilitarian, i.e. dirty), and the camper. I left my old 1971 VW T2 Devon Conversion back in the UK when I emigrated - any regretted it ever since.
  22. Greetings fellow modelers. It's the last day of the holiday weekend, but we have made a good bit of progress in matters rotary. First though, let's feed the pigeons. Too kind Bill, too kind thanks cngaero. Been dealing a bit with the flab myself recently. All this working form home stuff just leads to more sitting down modeling. That Perdu? I'm glad he's around, otherwise I'd miss things. Bill, I had completely forgotten about those torque links and bracing thingies on the front wheels. I'm so glad you reminded me. Thanks Steve. Not so many greebles this time around. Just more millstones, I mean milestones. yeah... I'm still looking for that Wessex bird. They're pretty rare these days. Thanks Giorgio. and in color too! I can't say yesterday was a day of rest. More a day of many things. With the work that is going on with the WW, it was a case of do a bit, wait a bit and so on. I diversified a tad and at one point I had 4 different builds on my bench: Whirlwind, Scout (yes, that Scout), Wapiti, and of all things, a Spitfire Xiv. But back to matters at hand. Whirlwinds. In particular, Bill's observant observation above - I had forgotten the greeblies around the front wheels. A quick search brought forth a couple of pieces if ss wire, some plasticard, and two pieces of F2b(I think?) from the scrap box. Holes were drilled in the fuselage to mount the wires, plasticard was cut into tiny, and I mean tiny, rectangles, and the long skinny bits were removed from the F2b wotsits which let them pretend to be torque links. That lot was then glued in position then painted black. Does that work Bill? That's another job ticked off the list that Bill's keeping for me. The printer has been taking a bit of a pounding this last week or two so while it was pounding away, I printed off some exhausts. A whole bunch of them actually. The exhaust on the WW doesn't have the gap seen on the Wessex so the exhaust needed to be a good fit to the opening. With that in mind, I printed off some exhausts at 9.05mm, 9.15mm, and 9.25mm - a couple of each to play with. The WW exhaust appears to curve immediately it exits the fuselage, To get that curve, I printed the exhausts a tad longer than needed, then had a go at trimming them to size to get the right appearance. Nothing fancy here - just pure guesswork and luck... and enough spares to play with. After a bit if faffing about, I had an exhaust that appeared right, and was a good fit in the opening, so it was painted up with Alclad shiny aluminum to start, followed by pale burnt metal, then finally a touch of smoke just around the edge. The photo doesn't capture the color variation well, but it's close enough, and one of my better attempts. From the side... Tick! It was time to get serious with that rotor head. I had started printing the rotor blades and it was a 9 hour print job as the blades were too long to lay flat on the print bed and had to be angled upwards. I'm just glad I could get them to print as one piece. 9 hours to get the rotor head ready then. I added a small brass spacer to the swash plate, then added a few drops of Mr Dissolved Putty masquerading as the canvas boot. As the putty dried off I manipulated it with a cocktail stick to add folds and creases, not that you will ever be able to see them. Then to keep Crisp happy, I made up the Jesus nut and hook greeble on top of the rotor head. Can you see it? I know I'm struggling to see the darned thing. SO, upper and lower rotor head plates ready to swing. Then I promptly knocked off the small wire ring on top of the head while picking it up. Seems pretty obvious now. As a preventive measure, I've made up another Jesus nut/hook with a drop leg and stored it in the WW parts bin. I also drilled a 0.3mm hole through the rotor head, so once the head is assembled, I can add the Jesus nut last to avoid knocking it off yet again. With parts now ready, it was time for a dry fit to see how it was going to look I even added the torque links on the head. Madness knows no bounds it appears. Works for me! Now on to that millstone. I mean milestone. Nope. I mean millstone. The 9 hour print job finished overnight and the parts were cleaned up pronto. But wait... Damn. Somethings up. As the parts were drying out I spotted something concerning. I wasn't sure to start with but on closer examination, I found we had a gremlin. Look at this wobble. Is it a wobble? Okay, some kind of unwanted undulation going on. This is the trailing edge of the blade and it was easier to photograph. I had the same thing going on with the leading edge of the blade. Not good. I then spent a while trying to sand out the wobbly undulations and although I got it looking pretty decent, I still wasn't happy with it. Now, I knew what was causing it - that was easy. This is a screenshot of the print setup. Each of the wobble gremlins coincided with the attachment point of the support structure. I had added plenty of supports to try and keep things in line, thinking more supports = good. In this case though, more supports = bad. My guess is that the blades were flexing ever so slightly during the printing process and the supports then grabbed the blades and brought them back in line - which resulted in a very slight direction change in the blade profile. Well, what if we don't try and force the blades and just let them go where they want? Anything was worth a try at this point. Without blades I don't have a whirlwind, and making blades completely from scratch was something I would rather not have to deal with if at all possible. I set up another print run with supports at the blade root, and only adding a final support towards the tip of the blade. Set to print. Go to bed. To be honest, I wasn't sure if these were going to fully print at all - would the flex be too much and they would just fail somewhere along the length? The next morning, I was in for a pleasant surprise. They had printed. Here's a comparison shot of the first vs second batch of blades. From the top - unaltered wibbly wobbly blade. In the middle: wibbly wobbly blade after much sanding. Better but no coconut. At the bottom. a blade from the second (minimal supports) batch. I think we have a winner. Then I almost ruined the entire set by curing them outside These days I avoid using the UV nail light as the power is too strong and it generates a lot of heat, which is okay on small solid parts, but it can easily induce warping - so I avoid it. I set the blades outside and laid them on top of a small wall on the patio. I rested them so the blade bow was downwards and raised one end on a small stick. Then forgot about them! When I finally remembered and dashed outside, as soon as I saw them, I could foresee another 9 hour print run in my very near future. They had sagged and the droop was now about 20mm or greater - I had designed in a droop of about 6mm. I had three of these Normally, on a sunny day here I would leave parts for about 20 minutes to half an hour in the sun. I had left these for about 3 hours. Luckily it was quite a cloudy day - there was a tiny bit of flex left in the blades. Back down in the basement, I taped each blade to a small lollipop stick, reducing the droop to something reasonable. I then stuck the blades under the UV nail lamp with two hopes... 1, that they had not fully cured yet and the UV would finish the cure and hopefully keep the droop set, and 2, that the heat generated by the lamps would induce warp, thus lessening the amount of droop they currently had. I prepared myself for another print run. But it worked! That was a real shocker, but I was willing to take that as a win. To close things off last night I hit the blades with some Alcad black primer, followed by some automotive high build primer and left them overnight. This morning it was sanding time again and micromesh was used to try and eradicate some of the striations left by the printing process. To keep Giorgio at bay, I threw some colors on - still got the detail painting on the working bits to do later At close of play today, I had the blades painted up in their basic colors, and glossed ready for decals (still no detail painting yet) Those Yellow stripes. Always a pita aren't they? Searching through my decal stash in desperation I found I still had some of the Hong Kong decals from my 1/48 Wessex build. Phew!. 'Cept I need 12 yellow stripes and I only have 11. I'll just have to make up the last strip from offcuts. If need be, I can paint the last stripe. I have to paint the blade tips yellow anyways. oh dear, back to work tomorrow... just when things were on a roll
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