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Brandy

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Everything posted by Brandy

  1. Wonderful news! I was getting dizzy driving around in circles! Ian
  2. The floor polish is nothing more than an acrylic gloss coat. No different from any other gloss coat and perfectly OK to paint over. Ian
  3. Nice! A good friend of mine has an Ulster with the only original bodywork left. He's had it copied for a couple of replicas/rebuilds as far as I know. (He also has 2 Alvis, lucky bugger!) Looking forward to seeing this progress. Ian
  4. Wow, what an improvement! It does raise the question of quality control on the original though..... Ian
  5. This thing is tiny, about two inches long at most and the close up on my camera is really struggling with it. I will ask Mrs Martian if she can get any better results Hmmm... Time for a beer methinks. Ian
  6. Elegoo resin received yesterday! If only Elegoo.AE also had the film I'd be good to go! Thanks for the info on light-off-delay, that could well be the cause of the "fluffy" edges. I'll try that and see if it makes any difference to the blurred and shiny top surfaces. It looks as though the resin above the print is being cured slightly. Ian
  7. Wow, has it really been 3 weeks since my last update? I haven't been idle, but have been doing a lot of playing around with the printed parts. Here's what's been going on chez moi. Firstly, the seat, since that's where we left off. Further tweaks and adjustments to shape and size of the base, mainly in shortening it slightly further, followed by designing the seatback. That of course led to numerous prints, tweaks and re-tweaks of the design until I was happy with it. Bear in mind I have no measurements, so all this is being done until it "looks right". This is the early design, just to get the overall shape. Adjustments were made - the back was shortened by raising the bottom edge, and the whole seatback was lowered on the base to give a squarer look. I widened the front edges to sit around the base better, positioned it a little further forward to eliminate gaps between the back and the base, and redesigned the bracket holding the seatback in place. Once I was sure the overall height was ok, I added a plane and cut the bottom off, adding brackets underneath instead - the height was assured because I just extended the brackets to the original base plane. Another plane was added, again cutting the base, but I didn't remove this part. I widened it slightly to give the base part that the squab was mounted on. This is where I am now. A big improvement, but I'm still not sure why those prints aren't as crisp as they should be. Next, the gearbox. This is what I designed. Upon printing it was obvious that I had made it too small. Fortunately, Fusion has a scale function, so I enlarged it by 25% and reprinted. I may even enlarge it a tad more - again the problem is that I have no measurements to work with! Finally, the wheels. I started with the wheels I designed for the SSKL Merc and resized them and the hubs. A couple of tweaks to ensure they fitted the tyres properly and they are ready for further detailing. Another issue I've been having is that the upper side of all prints (the side facing the plate and between the supports) is blurred and shiny. I thought at first it was a cleaning issue, but I think I have part cured resin sitting on the top which won't wash off. I've only had this issue since switching to the Mars 4 Ultra and Saraya Tech Fast resin. You can clearly see the difference with the one on the right showing the upper surfaces. I noticed I had the same issues with the Siraya Tech Exposure test piece. Notice the inlaid crosses on the far side have shiny residue in them which leaves them blurred at the edges. It also shows the same blotches on the surface. In an effort to eliminate that, I did another print with the gearboxes mounted vertically. That led to failure of all the vertical parts! I noticed while trying to clean out the failed prints that the film seemed to have a ridge in it, so I emptied the resin vat to take a look. I may have caused that while removing the failed prints, I'm not sure, but new film has been ordered along with Elegoo Rapid resin and I'll see if that makes any difference. If anyone has experience of these issues and can offer advise, please speak up! Meanwhile, there's more designing to be done! Thanks for looking in, Ian
  8. Aaargh! We all know what follows a spanking. Please scrub my mind's eye with carbolic soap! I'm looking forward to seeing the new additions, and full credit for the terms of engagement! Ian
  9. Almost as much detective work in this as building, but it's worth every bit and looking really impressive! Ian
  10. The "shock absorber" is the cylinder between your bent brass piece and the upper part. It's a standard oil/gas oleo. The bent brass piece is just a cast metal mounting. Lovely work though, and great to see this back! Ian
  11. Just buy the old Airfix one and fix it! Great fun! Ian
  12. Is that according to you, or Mrs M? Fantastic result, either way! Ian
  13. Lovely work, and very evocative! The V sign being given by the British Officers is not a victory sign though, that would be with palm facing outward. The sign they are giving is the same as the American stiff middle finger! Ian
  14. Very nice! I have to do a new gearbox cover/transmission tunnel for the SS100. I hope it looks half as good! Ian
  15. It looks as though this is about to turn into one of those "it was a pain, but I'm glad it broke" moments! Nice metal work Crisp! Ian
  16. Very impressive turret adjustments. The end result is very tidy and at least to my inexpert eye looks fantastic! Ian I'm NOT going to comment on Simon's wife's rear end!
  17. You are, of course, correct Dave. I was thinking that the 4 blade prop in the Airfix kit was a clockwise prop, but in fact it appears that it isn't, and therefore could be made to work. Just check the diameter and you should be good. Double check - when viewed from behind in a pusher configuration fitted to a rotary, the prop should turn anti-clockwise, so the forward edge of a prop blade in the vertical position pointing upwards, should be on the left of the blade. I hope that makes sense! This is an FE8 prop, but rotation is correct for DH2 also. Ian
  18. No it won't. The DH4 prop is a tractor prop, you need a pusher prop which will be opposite. Think right hand thread versus left hand thread. Ian
  19. I found the "handle" end of a pair of nail scissors invaluable when making the engine panels on my Bleriot many years back. Rubbing the curve of the finger guard against the metal on a hard surface acted like an English wheel and gave a nice smooth, and controllable, curve. Ian
  20. Welcome back from your time on the piste! Lovely work on the nav lights, they look great. Ian
  21. I don't know how I managed to miss this, but I've now caught up. What a fantastic project! I totally agree that just getting to grips with the design software is a major task in itself, then add the supporting, orientation, and printing of the parts and the learning curve is indeed very steep. But when you get to sit back and look at what you just created, and wonder how/if you could have done it the traditional way, you realise it was time well spent! With very thin parts, I have played with designing-in supports, then using standard supports to support those. Maybe this will help explain what I mean. The horizontal parts are to keep it from warping and and are thin enough at the contact points that they should snap off easily. I'd be interested to learn how you thickened the original mesh designs as I have a friend who wants to print some conversion parts which he downloaded as mesh designs. Ian
  22. Just a small update, as I have been busy doing other bits and pieces this last week or so, but I think I've now finalised the shape of the seat base. I tried modifying the original drawing but found it easier to save as a new file and go back to stage one. Note to self - keep a logical order and ensure all references are in place at the beginning! It took a fraction of the time to redesign the whole thing and I'm much happier with the overall shape and size of it now. Kit part at top, version 1 in the middle, latest edition at the bottom. Ian
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