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Brandy

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Everything posted by Brandy

  1. That will lead to elephant's foot - a distortion of the lower part of the print where it meets the plate, will not cure the suction issues, and will not solve the problem since the supports as they are are also hollow! Leave the supports but reduce them A LOT! Ian
  2. I use brass rod, available from a number of sources (Google micro brass rod), cut to a VERY short length. Diameter of the rod is 0.3mm to 0.5mm (10 to 20 thou). I cut a slot in the end of the strut and CA the pin in place, then a quick swipe of PPP to level it all off. The pin is only very small since I need to bend the strut very slightly to pop it into place and it's sole purpose is to give a positive location. To make it easier to handle I'll leave it too long when I fit it to the strut, then clip it short once secured. Leaving a long pin will result in too much bend on the strut and may break the strut when trying to fit it. Hope that helps! Ian
  3. As mentioned, there really is no one-answer suits all. I work in 1:72 and virtually always fit the cabane struts first. I also add small brass pins to my struts and drill the wings to accept them, adding strength and a very positive location aid. I would never dream of trying to attach struts without those pins and just relying on a dimple in the wing and a small rounded end on the strut - that's a sure fire recipe for frustration! Ian
  4. About 8 min wash, after initial wash in a separate bath. Cure around 2 mins as these parts are very small. The Siraya tech calibration print also shows cured resin in the indented crosses on the right side, but not in the indented triangles on the left side of the print. These, of course, are printed face down, so not an issue of interference from supports. Ian
  5. I agree with Alan. Reduce the size of your supports A LOT and increase the gaps in them. I would make the majority of the area of your support a gap, with the minority being the actual support, to reduce the suction. It also looks as though your bottom layers (the raft) are over exposed as all the holes are filled. I would recommend downloading a test print such as Siraya tech one https://siraya.tech/pages/siraya-tech-test-model or similar. I reduced my bottom layer exposure from the 28 sec default to 20 sec and got much better results, but I still think your problems are mainly coming from too much suction. Ian
  6. Looks great Bill Although I admit I have no idea what it should look like! Ian
  7. They're for "The Simpsons" version! Bart's is on the right. Ian
  8. The RNAS used licence-built Caudron G.IVs. The only British designed WWI twin I can think of that you haven't mentioned is the Blackburn Kangaroo. Ian
  9. Do you have a set of clay modelling spatulas? Something like this.... @CedB look away now... https://www.amazon.com/HTS-154P1-Stainless-Spatula-Sculpting/dp/B01C7X7D2K These are fabulous for miliput. Just dampen the ends and you can get a lovely smooth surface first try! Ian
  10. Very nice! You've done great job on it, curtains included! Ian
  11. No, it didn't. Adding a 1 second delay before cure helped a lot with the ragged edges and the spots, but I still have partially cured resin on the upper side, between the supports. Ian
  12. Wonderful news! I was getting dizzy driving around in circles! Ian
  13. The floor polish is nothing more than an acrylic gloss coat. No different from any other gloss coat and perfectly OK to paint over. Ian
  14. Nice! A good friend of mine has an Ulster with the only original bodywork left. He's had it copied for a couple of replicas/rebuilds as far as I know. (He also has 2 Alvis, lucky bugger!) Looking forward to seeing this progress. Ian
  15. Wow, what an improvement! It does raise the question of quality control on the original though..... Ian
  16. This thing is tiny, about two inches long at most and the close up on my camera is really struggling with it. I will ask Mrs Martian if she can get any better results Hmmm... Time for a beer methinks. Ian
  17. Elegoo resin received yesterday! If only Elegoo.AE also had the film I'd be good to go! Thanks for the info on light-off-delay, that could well be the cause of the "fluffy" edges. I'll try that and see if it makes any difference to the blurred and shiny top surfaces. It looks as though the resin above the print is being cured slightly. Ian
  18. Wow, has it really been 3 weeks since my last update? I haven't been idle, but have been doing a lot of playing around with the printed parts. Here's what's been going on chez moi. Firstly, the seat, since that's where we left off. Further tweaks and adjustments to shape and size of the base, mainly in shortening it slightly further, followed by designing the seatback. That of course led to numerous prints, tweaks and re-tweaks of the design until I was happy with it. Bear in mind I have no measurements, so all this is being done until it "looks right". This is the early design, just to get the overall shape. Adjustments were made - the back was shortened by raising the bottom edge, and the whole seatback was lowered on the base to give a squarer look. I widened the front edges to sit around the base better, positioned it a little further forward to eliminate gaps between the back and the base, and redesigned the bracket holding the seatback in place. Once I was sure the overall height was ok, I added a plane and cut the bottom off, adding brackets underneath instead - the height was assured because I just extended the brackets to the original base plane. Another plane was added, again cutting the base, but I didn't remove this part. I widened it slightly to give the base part that the squab was mounted on. This is where I am now. A big improvement, but I'm still not sure why those prints aren't as crisp as they should be. Next, the gearbox. This is what I designed. Upon printing it was obvious that I had made it too small. Fortunately, Fusion has a scale function, so I enlarged it by 25% and reprinted. I may even enlarge it a tad more - again the problem is that I have no measurements to work with! Finally, the wheels. I started with the wheels I designed for the SSKL Merc and resized them and the hubs. A couple of tweaks to ensure they fitted the tyres properly and they are ready for further detailing. Another issue I've been having is that the upper side of all prints (the side facing the plate and between the supports) is blurred and shiny. I thought at first it was a cleaning issue, but I think I have part cured resin sitting on the top which won't wash off. I've only had this issue since switching to the Mars 4 Ultra and Saraya Tech Fast resin. You can clearly see the difference with the one on the right showing the upper surfaces. I noticed I had the same issues with the Siraya Tech Exposure test piece. Notice the inlaid crosses on the far side have shiny residue in them which leaves them blurred at the edges. It also shows the same blotches on the surface. In an effort to eliminate that, I did another print with the gearboxes mounted vertically. That led to failure of all the vertical parts! I noticed while trying to clean out the failed prints that the film seemed to have a ridge in it, so I emptied the resin vat to take a look. I may have caused that while removing the failed prints, I'm not sure, but new film has been ordered along with Elegoo Rapid resin and I'll see if that makes any difference. If anyone has experience of these issues and can offer advise, please speak up! Meanwhile, there's more designing to be done! Thanks for looking in, Ian
  19. Aaargh! We all know what follows a spanking. Please scrub my mind's eye with carbolic soap! I'm looking forward to seeing the new additions, and full credit for the terms of engagement! Ian
  20. Almost as much detective work in this as building, but it's worth every bit and looking really impressive! Ian
  21. The "shock absorber" is the cylinder between your bent brass piece and the upper part. It's a standard oil/gas oleo. The bent brass piece is just a cast metal mounting. Lovely work though, and great to see this back! Ian
  22. Just buy the old Airfix one and fix it! Great fun! Ian
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