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Everything posted by Chewbacca

  1. Fwd and aft hull halves now epoxied together, filler added to hide the join and a first coast of primer to see where we're at. Still some more filling and sanding! I also took the main superstucture off the print sprues and flattened off the base ready for a dry fit. Unfortunately I thin I should have UV cured it before taking it off the sprues because the port side of the hangar, which was pretty thin (0.2 mm IIRC), warped as soon as the support was removed. So will have to replace that with some sheet styrene. The hangar door isn't much better I'm afraid so that may have to go as well. The other area that needed attention was the bridge roof. Where I had cut through the bridge windows for visibility, I ended up cutting too close to the roof and it was less than 1/20th mm think in the end which of course crumbled as soon as I cut away the supports. So that's already replaced with some 20 thou styrene. I also had an issue where I was trying to be too clever. Just aft and 1 deck below the bridge was the main chart room. This was a huge open space with a large plotting table in the middle where the hydrographers would manually prepare the chart masters. I thought I would mould the table to the deck below so that it would be visible through the fairly large windows. Only slight snag was that for some strange reason I drew it in the wrong place. So out with the razor saw and off it came. In hindsight, it was a bit too big. It was only about 6 foot square and that was closer to 10 or 12. I have very fond memories of using that table to "amend" a large chart of the South Atlantic on which we had plotted all of the seabirds we had seen which was to be presented to the Royal Naval Ornithological Society when we returned. Let's just say that there may have been some additional ones added that probably have never appeared on any bird watcher's list before or after! In our defence, they were only in pencil... (and no, that is not a fingerprint though I do concede in the photo it does look spookily like one) @Andreas.R was very kind and offered me the offcuts he had left over from his Artwox deck but no matter how I played the jigsaw, I couldn't get all of the bits to fit and I can't find any suppliers outside China who are all quoting July/August delivery times. So I guess I will have to try the Mk1 deck which Hannants do have in stock. Or I might just resort to painting the deck as I always have done in the past. I've also printed all of the smaller bits and pieces - funnel, foremast, main survey crane, capstan and windlass and have started to draw the boats in CAD. There must be an easier way to draw boats that I have found. So far I have done a first pass at the Survey Motor Boat. Still need to draw the 27 ft motor whaler and the smaller cutter that sits on the stbd aft davit. For the life of me I cannot remember what that was and the photos are not especially clear Thanks for watching
  2. Dear Andreas, That is extremely kind of you. I have sent you a PM with the dimensions Very best regards
  3. Or maybe I won't. Hadn't spotted that all of the suppliers I had looked at for the Artwox deck were in China and quoting delivery times measured in months not weeks. I can get the Mk1 from Hannants but they seem expensive.. I may have to go down that route though.
  4. Thanks Andreas, that's most helpful to hear from someone who has actually used the product. I shall place an order now.
  5. Some may have noticed that I posed a question in General Modelling Chat about 6 weeks ago about generic wooden deck as I was thinking about scratch building HMS HECLA in memory of the fact that 40 years ago I was heading south in her to act as an ambulance ship with our sister ships HYDRA and HERALD in the NOSH Box - Naval Oceangoing Surgical Hospital - supporting the principal casualty receiving ship, SS Uganda. Unfortunately the only reply I got to that topic didn't answer the question of whether either of those wooden decks are worthwhile investments, but with the 40th anniversary commemorations coming up in Portsmouth in 6 weeks time which I am attending, and in which the Royal Naval Association is hosting a model show, I thought I'd give it a go and see what could be done. I doubt it will be finished because I am not the world's quickest modeller at the best of times and I know I am really busy over the next few weeks. But 3D printing should speed up the process (even if some would say it is cheating!). So over the past 6 weeks I have been slowing growing my CAD skills and trying to draw an entire ship. I have no plans whatsoever, just a series of photos of which fortunately one is taken very nearly beam on and which I can scale to 1/350 to take the measurements. The advantage of this ship over many others is dating the photos is very easy -no red cross and it's not of the right period (we left Gibraltar on 19 April and returned to Devonport on 29 July). It looks very out of scale because I haven't included the bulwarks or decks which I shall add from 20/40 thou plasticard. My printer (Elegoo Mars) has a reasonable sized print deck but not big enough for the whole project so I have had to split the hull in two. Fortunately It did seem to print reasonably well but when I came to fit the two halves together, I found the stubs that I moulded to ensure it was lined up lacked the tolerance for the corresponding sockets. So I ended up taking those off with a razer saw and shall have to rely on Mk 1 eye ball. It also didn't print the end plates completely flush so there is some more sanding and filling to do to get a decent fit. But a lot quicker than cutting frames and plating as I did with BULOLO. Next job is to strip out the 3D design into smaller pieces and start printing the superstructure. Wish me luck - I think I will need it! Oh, and if anyone has any experience of the Artwox or Mk1 wooden decks (or indeed any other generic wood deck), I'd still value your thoughts Thanks for watching
  6. Pleased to report that PUMA is finally finished bar the Perspex case (for which I have yet to order the Perspex). Just a few quick photos from last night as she sat on the bench; I'll do some better ones later in the week for the RFI. I wimped out on spraying the jetty with matt coat for fear that the figures would end up flying all over the place as a couple of people had said above. Instead, after a quick check that the Vallejo matt varnish didn't dry with white splodges all over the place if I used a hairy stick (as the Humbrol one has done in the past) I did it with a very soft large brush. Still ended up knock about 10-12 off but at least for all bar 1 I could see where they went and get them re-attached. For those coming to next Saturday's Viking's Show in Poole, I hope to display here there. The dilemma now is what next? As some may have spotted, I asked the question about generic wood decks with a view to scratchbuilding HMS HECLA as she appeared in 1982 (especially noting that it is 40 years ago today that we sailed from Gibraltar heading to the South Atlantic). I'm pretty well advanced with drawing the basic structure in 3D CAD so can print the hull and main superstructure parts (render below) but if I do it I want to get it finished in time for the big 40th anniversary Falklands celebrations in Portsmouth where the Royal Naval Association Modelling SIG are holding an exhibition. And as readers on here will know, I am not the quickest of modellers (mainly because I don't get time to do it often enough). Thanks for watching
  7. Sorry, only met him for about 10 mins and that would have been 2015/2016 or so so even if he gave me his name at the time, I certainly don't remember it now.
  8. Beautifully done. Having just fought with the much simpler rigging on HMS PUMA, I am especially impressed with the way that you have portrayed it here. May I ask what rigging material you used?
  9. And I think by 2026, the first DREADNOUGHT should be in the water.
  10. Very nicely done. You're right it's tight, especially with a helicopter that weighs just shy of 15 tons at max all up mass, but in reality it's not quite as bad as that. If you look in the middle of white circle on the flight deck, there is a square area in the middle of that which is the deck lock grid. The idea is that the deck lock, which is located between the main wheels, engages one of the holes there. The athwartships dotted line should line up with the Pilots' seats. So in reality the aircraft is about another 10 feet further aft with everything aft of the tail fold mechanism hanging over the aft end. It's still difficult, which is why historically (I don't know if it has changed since I left the RN) the pass criteria for Fleet Air Arm helicopter pilots was higher than their RAF counterparts. The Ensign Staff is only ever fitted when alongside, at anchor, moored to a buoy or when at Harbour Stations for entering/leaving harbour. The only time that an aircraft would be there simultaneously would be a Procedure Alpha entry when it would be positioned as close to the hangar door as possible. This photo shows it probably better than I can explain, albeit it is a T23 but the same principle applies.
  11. Confucius he say "When modeller makes best judgement of positioning equipment in the face of no substantive evidence, evidence proving it wrong will materialise after model is finished!"
  12. I find the best way to resize is to open the plan/image in Powerpoint, crop the image tightly to stem and stern and then use the format image tool to resize the horizontal component of the image to what size you in need in whatever scale you are using (though make sure that you tick the lock aspect ration box first).
  13. Fascinating set of photos. 'Tis a great pity that the Museum of the Royal Navy's online collection doesn't offer up anything like this.
  14. Chewbacca

    HMS Daring (H16)

    Hi Ratch, I'd check that accommodation ladder on the Niko kit. In all my years at sea, I've never seen an accommodation ladder angled for'ard. It would very easily be damaged by the tidal stream flowing past when the ship was at anchor. Out of curiosity, why do you hate PE? I'd never used it until about 10=12 years ago and I admit that even now I find it fiddly to put on. But in the maritime world it really makes a model stand out
  15. Only just caught up with this for the first time in 3/4 months. The masterclass continues. This is seriously impressive.
  16. Impressive scratchbuilding of those Oerlikons in 1/600!
  17. Hi Jeff, I got some of Chuck's corrections but not all when I did my DEVONSHIRE to GLAMORGAN conversion a few years back - see RFI here: The question of the deck colour was the interesting as like you I couldn't find any definitive photos that showed the deck colour. 1982 was a period of change for the RN in which metal, non-flight, decks were being repainted from the green that had endured since the 1950s to Camrex Grey. I found a colour photo of GLAMORGAN that was entitled Gibraltar, April 1982 which clearly showed her with green decks and another post her 1982 refit with grey, so my logic said that her decks was repainted when she returned for her post Falklands refit. It was only after showing this model at the Yeovilton model show about 6/7 years ago that one of the visitors pointed out that they were in fact grey in June 1982 as they had been repainted in Gibraltar, just prior to sailing south. He should know, apparently, as at the time he was the ship's painter! So I'd go with grey.
  18. 4 Skua in the Gulf was doable - just - as my avatar shows (larger version below) although only when Gem 204/5 series engines were fitted post about 1987/8 and even then, if we lost an engine on take off we were ending up in the water. I seem to recall TCrit times (the time it took after take off to reach safe single engine flying conditions after take off) of 49 seconds whereas in normal operations in the N Atlantic without a weapon load it was closer to 1-2 seconds. I only flew 4 warshot a few times. As Crisp says it was more common during Op Granby to fly with 2 Skua to starboard and the Yellow Veil jammer to port. During my first Gulf deployment in 1988 which was during the tanker war, our usual load was the 0.5 inch Heavy Machine Gun pod to starboard and Yellow Veil to port with for some aircraft the Sandpiper IR camera mounted on the inboard port weapon carrier though not every flight had one as there were only 5 turrets procured. We also used to have the M130 Chaff and Flare system mounted just forward of the transportation joint. And finally some aircraft carried the Challenge IR jammer on twin turrets just aft of and above the Pilot's/Observer's doors but it wasn;t very successful. Even though I flew all of the introduction into service trials, operationally I only flew the system 3 times before I consigned it to a corner of the hanger! Note if you are modelling the jammer pod there were two versions. The Mk 1 used up to ~April 1989 and the Mk 2 variant thereafter. The visual difference was the smaller antennae. The Mk 1 had pointed side fitted antennae fore and aft whereas the later pods had a larger, more bulbous side mounted antennae reflecting their wider frequency range. You can see the two different versions below; I'll see if I can find an image showing the Mk 2 actually fitted to an aircraft.
  19. Thanks everyone for your kind words and thanks especially to Crisp for spotting that white edge - I hadn't noticed it until you pointed it out! I've done those but having put the rest of the flags on I've now looked harder and noticed that I have a few more to touch up when the PVA has set. Also added a few more figures on board, replaced all of the ones I'd knocked off while doing the rigging, added the whip aerials and started to add people to the jetty. Only about another 70 or so to go! What I'm not sure about at the moment is whether to matt coat the whole model once it's complete. I'm concerned that the matt coat will react with the paper for the flags, but at the same time I know that there is a lot of CA all over the decks where I have added the PE and figures. I think I will have to do a test on one of the spare sheets of signal flags and see what happens. I'm also a little concerned that even on its lowest pressure the blast from the airbrush will scatter the figures far and wide! Overall view Whip aerials added Thanks for watching
  20. I hate rigging. There, I've said it. When I look at other people's ship models and see every single line perfectly in place, even down to the halyards being doubled up, I wonder how do they do it. I must have spent 6 hours trying to do Puma's rigging and it was simplified with just a couple of halyards on the aft side of the foremast and three either side going up to the yard arms. I was using Uschi-van-Rosten superfine line and it was so fine that even with an extremely well lit bench, as soon as the line was moved over the ship, I lost sight of it against the green deck and grey superstructure. Which meant that by the time I finally got the free end anywhere near to the point where I wanted it to stick, the CA had cooked off. In the end I resorted to holding a 6,000 lumen torch in my mouth while holding the line in the tweezers in one hand and the pin with the CA in the other. But even that it wasn't enough because by the time I could see what I was doing, I realised that as the end of the line was getting near to the ship, there was a static reaction going on which meant the end would turn away when just millimetres from the attachment point. And to make matters worse I ended up taking the mast off the ship to attach the halyards on the after side and managed to drop it which bent a couple of the halyards and broke the 3D printed ACH aerial that I'd spent hours trying to create last year. Fortunately I was able to fix it though not as well as I would like as the vertical dipole is now too thick. I might return to that and see if I can replace it with something thinner. Annoyingly, having gone to all that effort, you can barely see them! The dress ship lines were a little easier. I replaced the PE ensign and jack staff tripods that came with the kit with ones made from 0.3 mm brass rod. It's slightly overscale but it gives a better 3D representation and I needed something a bit beefier to take the stress of the dress ship lines which after the hassle with the halyards went on remarkably easily to my surprise. It was then onto the dress ship flags themselves which I was not looking forward to as I feared that they would not easily attach and would start to weight down the dress ships lines and cause them to sag. Well pleased to report that apart from one - Flag Q, the yellow one below which you can see is slightly out of square - they all went on very easily and thus far have not caused any noticeable sag. Watch this space when I get to the mainmast to ensign staff run I guess which is the longest of them all. the technique I used to attach them was to dip the end of each flag in PVA glue, wipe off 90% of what was on there and very carefully, holding the flag in the tweezers, inch it toward the dress ship line until it made contact. In most cases they took straight away. Still a lot to do but should get those squared away this weekend. I can see light at the end of the tunnel (hoping it's not an express training coming the other way!) and I'm aiming to have this done in time for the Viking's Show next month in Poole if anyone is coming. Thanks for watching
  21. Thanks. I should give due warning that my CAD skills are not great!
  22. I always thought that submariners were a bit mad to do this but you have captured the feel of it very well. I especially like the way that you can see the silhouette of the hull through the ice which is very realistic.
  23. I know I have yet to finish my PUMA build but I'm starting to think ahead to the next one and given that twe're about to commemorate Falklands 40, I thought I might see what I could do with the 3D printer to come up with a 1/350 HMS HECLA which was my steamer for the campaign. One of the key features of the H Class Survey ships was their wooden decks and so I'd like to have a go at using generic wood overlay. I can find 2 products - the Artwox and Mk1 Design. Does anyone have any experience of either? I know a lot of maritime modellers use the pre-cut wooden deck kits to great effect but I wasn't able to find any reports of anyone using the generic material. I was also wondering how thick it is. The Mk 1 design material is advertised as 1 mm; I presume that means the width of the scribed planks not the thickness. Can anyone advise on the thickness so that I can allow for that in the CAD? Thanks
  24. After a good couple of sessions at the bench over the weekend, finished painting the latest batch of figures. Note to self, if I ever plan to do something like this ever again, start doing 1/35 AFVs for a hobby! I feel for those Napoleonic wargamers who have to paint thousands of troops to represent Waterloo. I've added another couple of dozen on board and a few little vignettes such as the couple waving from alongside A turret while someone on the jetty takes their picture but I think I'm going to save the rest now for the jetty and I thought it made much more sense to put those on after I did the rigging because I can guarantee they will get knocked off otherwise. So the last job yesterday was to fix the foremast and start making the jack and ensign staffs. Next is halyards, whip aerials and dress ship lines. Thanks for watching
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