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Everything posted by Chewbacca

  1. I presume that you meant the phots that I took. Sadly not, they were all taken on the works camera and the film when unloaded from the camera was sent straight to MOD. All I ever got back was a contact sheet with comments like "frame 3-6 under-exposed 1 stop, frame 11-14 under-exposed 2 stops". We rarely got to keep copies of any of the photos that we took.
  2. First I'd heard of them was reading this RFI which used Five Star parts and which look very good: Sadly, the thing that would put me off using them (at least from that eBay outlet, auroramodelshop) is the open claim that they advertise that they state on the customs declaration that it is a gift under $25 and if the buyer gets caught for import duties, bad luck. That despite the fact that there are almost no Five Star or Shipyard items that fall into the sub $25 category. Now I know that none of us like paying tax, but surely that is blatant fraud and I'm sure that by entering into a sales agreement with them on that basis, HMRC could make a case that we knew what they planned to do and are therefire an accessory to the crime? I wouldn't use them out of principle.
  3. Very nice. I especially love the way that you have created a sense of depth in the water through the clever use of colour. I've been up close and personal with a couple of these (taking photographs from about 100 yards) and this captures the meanness that they are in the steel.
  4. I'm not normally a fan of IJN ships but that is exquisite. Some of the best modelling I think I have ever seen.
  5. When you find one, do let us all into the secret please. Zap extra thin isn't bad but even that has its off days (see my PUMA WIP thread for the latest evidence of that)
  6. Interesting capstan arrangement. Don't think I've ever seen a layout like that before and i wonder what the reason was?
  7. Some fabulous modelling going on here and the delicate PE work is exquisite. Please don't take this as a criticism because it's most definitely not, but aren't those whip aerials a little on the heavy side? I presume they're kit items but wonder if they could be replaced with brass wire to give a more scale appearance? Having said that I couldn't find any half-decent photos that showed the after superstructure and those that I could find didn't appear to have any whips there at all but it does all very much depend upon the time period that you are portraying. I presume from the hull colour scheme it is ~1945?
  8. Thanks both for your comments. I must confess I didn't know that you could get either threaded or sagged guardrails in this scale so I'm afraid I cut the old ones off and have replaced them with standard 2-bar metal guardrails. They're not authentic but I think they do look a little better than my original attempt. I also realised that when I fitted the brow safety net that I'd forgotten the shot mat that is placed over the deck edge to prevent chafing but fortunately the net was only lightly attached and I was able to release it lightly from the deck edge, put the shot mat underneath (made from a 5 mm square of kitchen roll painted burnt umber) which you can just see either side of the brow and then reattached the netting before fitting the brow itself. Also painted up the ceremonial perry buoy and added that to the cruciform which now sits at the dockside end of the brow. Both the cruciform and perry buoy were 3D printed. Next job I think will be to finish painting the figures and start getting those positioned. Thanks for watching
  9. Brow netting fabricated and fitted and the dockside guardrails added. The actual guardrails are traditionally individual galvanised steel stanchions that simply drop into holes in the dockside joined by a double layer of chain so that each one can be taken out to allow for ropes, wires and brows to be positioned. They are often quite loose and depending upon the wear in the hole usually are not vertical. So I tried to replicate that by drilling holes in the dockside and adding individual stanchions made from 0.2 mm brass wire. I certainly achieved the random angle look that I wanted but them the difficulty came in adding the chain. My first attempt was Uschi van de Rosten line but it was so fine that it didn't show up at all. Then I tried 0.2 mm fishing line, but that simply wouldn't attach with the CA I was using but given that it is nylon monofilament I was not wholly surprised. And so in the end I used stretched sprue. Before painting And after painting But for some strange reason, I could not get the sprue and wire to attach neatly with CA. I was using Zap extra thin which is my preferred CA but nothing I could do was getting these components to stay together. I think it was simply that there was so little contact area and so little adhesive that by the time I had put the applicator down and picked up the stretched sprue, the CA had cooked off. So I swapped to a CA gel and accelerator which worked but as you can see, even using a tiny pin and putting on what I thought was a miniscule amount of adhesive, I've still ended up with some nasty blobs. the ones on the top row I can probably cure but I've got no chance with the lower row. And more importantly, at times the two rows are far too close together. And so I am going to try to swap that out - if I can without totally destroying the dockside - and go for Atlantic Models PE railings. I accept that they are unrealistic because they are too even but I think they will end up looking better than these. They also won't have the characteristic sag of each line of chain but I failed to achieve that with the vast majority of the stretched sprue so nothing lost there!
  10. I have a similar project running for GLASGOW having both commanded her briefly and been her XO back in the 90s. I've completed the WW2 version and have the Atlantic Models 1/350 T42; I have yet to get the Combrig WW1 Town Class. Interestingly when I was XO of GLASGOW, one of our officers had previously served in GLOUCESTER and was forever telling tales "when I was in GLOUCESTER...". In the end we grew so fed up with it that I banned the use of her name in the wardroom; instead she could only be referred to as "the other G ship" with a fine for anyone who transgressed. Probably wouldn't get away with that these days -it'd be deemed bullying and harassment!
  11. Some of those kits bring back the memories Dave. Is TIGER a conversion from the Airfix or is she the 1/700 Matchbox kit? Also what is that ship that the Ikara conversion is leaning on? Would have loved to have served in TIGER or BLAKE. Sadly I joined just a wee bit too late
  12. In the mid-late 80s, the RN did experiment with different coloured anti-fouling and boot-topping on a couple of ships (light blues and greys) but by the time that MONTROSE entered service they had reverted to the traditional red and black.
  13. Looking really good. I've been looking for this (in the smaller sizes) for months after @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies highlighted it but it seems that it's out of stock everywhere and I wondered if YX had stopped making it and simply hadn't updated their website?
  14. Great work. The shot from the stern really emphasises the busy-ness of a carrier's flight deck and is very realistic.
  15. Great work Glynn. Only problem with that bridge (which I agree looks superb) is that it opens up the bridge so much that now you need to scratch build the interior... I've done it once in 1/350; I wouldn't fancy it much in 1/700.
  16. Some great work going on here Jeff - very impressed. Personally would have cut a chunk out of the hull midships and joined them together before repairing the damage to the stern with filler rather than trying to bend the residue of the stern around but you made that look really easy. How did you get it to bend without the use of heat if I may ask?
  17. Scott, when were you in Hayler? It wasn't the same SNFL deployment that did this Exercise Teamwork was it?
  18. They're not radomes as such (insomuch that they don't house a radar) but mostly satcom aerials (and a tracker for the 4.5 inch gun on the foremast for'ard face) I've never served in a T23 but certainly the earlier style SCOT satcom aerials fitted to a T22s/T42s were a light duck egg blue. The single centreline Inmarsat aerial is white. IIRC, the radar antenna cover on the 911 tracker (just abaft the bridge and on the hanger roof) should be ships side grey/light weatherworks grey.
  19. Hi Mike, I started it over 6 years ago at a time whenever I tried to get onto BM my anti-virus checker said it was infected and blocked it. In those days I was a firm devotee of the Airfix Tribute Forum having been one of the earliest members from about 2006. It was only a chat to Martian at a Club meet one night coupled with the fact that ATF moved to a Tapatalk platform around the same time (which is truly awful) that persuaded me to jump ship. I thought I had created a WIP in ATF but I can't check as even through I still have an account over there, Tapatalk won't let me in unless I create a separate account with them and change my username to the Tapatalk one which I have no intention of doing. For the record, I don;t blame any of the ATF team for the move to Tapatalk - I know there hand was effectively forced - it's just that I find it the most infuriating website hosting software I have ever used (and I used to be the web manager for a multi-award winning car club website). I do have some WIP photos so can recreate it on here when I get started on it again. No problem at all Jeff - help yourself. Don't forget though that although the Rothesays and Whitby's were virtually identical in length and beam to the Leanders, the Cats and Cathedrals were shorter at only 340 ft long which does make a difference (~15 mm in 1/600). Oooh, very useful intel. Didn't know that. Thanks
  20. Excellent job there Jon. I know what you mean about the scale thickness of the rigging. I went scale with ultra fine Uschi van der Rosten on my 1/350 BULOLO and you can barely see the rigging and aerial lines whereas in reality all of the photos show them to be quite prominent. I'm nearing the end of my first all resin kit (Atlantic Models PUMA) and I would totally endorse that. The quality is streets ahead of any injection moulded kit I have ever done though looking at some of the recent offerings from the likes of Flyhawk the gap is narrowing rapidly (if only they would do 1/350!). The one observation I would make I think is that the skills needed for resin are similar to, but in some cases very different to, injection moulded so my advice would be start small and build up your skill set before embarking on one that's getting into serious money.
  21. I know it is a little late but I am playing catch up on BM while on leave this week after a few months being very hectic at work. I think the two observations I would make are that: 1. Getting a realistic sea scape is probably the hardest thing to do in ship modelling, but to my mind it really sets the models off to their best effect. You've done a very good job. 2. The most important thing to consider is where in the world is the model representing because contrary to most people's expectations, the sea is more often that not, not blue (sorry for the double negative). I think, though am very happy to be corrected, that the colour is largely driven by microscopic algal growth and there is more green algae in cooler waters. I know that RHYL was operating in the North Sea is 1941/42 but don't know whether she spent her entire career there or not. The North Sea is definitely not blue - more a sort of murky green/grey with browns added the closer you get to the great estuaries like the Thames and Humber or in harbours. The North Atlantic is much the same, predominantly greens with just the slightest hint of blue. The further south you go, the bluer it gets. Looking at the finished product in RFI, the colours you've got are very typical for the Mediterranean around Malta or Crete in summer. Hope that helps. Please don't take this in any way as criticism as you have created a cracking model. incidentally, when I first saw the title of this thread I got very excited thinking that Mike had produced a 1/350 Rothesay class frigate!
  22. Like you Jamie I've found recently that the day job has been getting in way of both modelling and catching up with what's been going on with BM so only just seen this masterclass in painting, It is looking superb and I love your comments about why bother when there are so many talented modellers out there who are better than us mere mortals. Well I can honestly say that i am learning a huge amount from this thread in weathering techniques for ships' sides! I do also share your dilemma over the action damage. I had the same debate a few years ago about depicting HMS GLAMORGAN post the Exocet hit and in the end decided to do it as a tribute to the men who gave their lives. It has been seen since at various model shows by several former members of her ship's company who were there that day and no one has commented adversely; in contrast they have all said that it is a fitting tribute. I am speechless. That is incredible. In 1/700 at that. And I am worried about painting 150 odd figures in 1/350 for my PU<A at Navy Days model. I think to quote from Wayne's World "We are not worthy!"
  23. Not a conversion I've ever considered but Enterprise was a fair bit longer than the Kittyhawks (~90 ft) so you'd need to lose around 46 mm off the hull. There beam at the waterline was within a couple of feet but Enterprise was around 30 feet narrower at the extremity of the angled deck so you'd need to work out where you could make the reduction in length. I would suggest that it would not be a straightforward conversion. Good luck!
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