Jeez, it's all changed...

[isaneng]

Good evening all.

 

Ok, I have watched several people in both WIP and RFI, and have been truly amazed at the results I have seen. It is many, many years since I last put a hairy stick to a piece of plastic (34 years?), so perhaps time to try again. I have a small stash, aircraft I have flown over those years - in fact by comparison to some, I hesitate to even call it a stash!

 

So, Q's.....

 

Paint.

It was all enamel then, but acrylic seems to be the current favourite. I have googled a few reports, but does anyone have a convincing argument either way. I am thinking acrylic for airbrushing.

 

Airbrush.

I have never owned one. So, a good brand for a newbie? Luckily YouTube has some great educational vids, and many of the chaps here are very helpful with their advice.

 

Stuff...

Ok, some decent brushes (any recommendations?). Some good blades (still X-acto?). Clamps. Paper and sticks for standing. 

 

I am in some ways lucky - I am old enough to afford what I need without worrying about pocket money! But I'm also aware that patience and preparation are hugely important. Looking forward to buying some practice plastic, but any advice, both practical and general, is gladly sought!

 

Thanks all,

 

Rick.

[Mike]

You'll get a million answers to those questions, as paint, airbrushes etc. are pretty personal choices.  I'm currently in love with my Gunze Procon Boy PS-270 airbrush for airbrushing (obviously!), and there are so many good brands of acrylic paint from AMMO, AK, LifeColor, Gunze, and more that I can't remember.  I'm using a lot of Gunze these days, and liking it a lot   I just ordered a few more from Martin @ Air-craft.net, who has a good range here.

 

Brushes, get the best you can afford, and make 'em sable.  I have a couple of really good ones by Windsor & Newton - Series 7, and they are the dog's knees, and the bee's danglies

 

Tools are good to pick up at shows, but a decent pair of tweezers, metal ruler, sprue nips, sanding sticks such as the Ultimate ones I reviewed over the years will start you off on a journey that will involve hundreds of tools that you seldom use

 

Lastly, aboard.

[isaneng]

Thanks Mike, appreciate your time!

 

And so the slippery slope returns...!

[huvut76g7gbbui7]

1 hour ago, isaneng said:

Some good blades (still X-acto?)

Hello and welcome Rick.

I use Swan Morton scalpel blades with a No 3 handle although my razor saw is an X-acto one from 1970ish.

[isaneng]

May I smile?

I love the fact that on this forum people seem able to discuss, agree AND disagree, offer different viewpoints, contradict, laugh and yet still give support to all. Your thoughts and inputs all taken in their due spirit! Thank you all!

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Hello Rick ...  to the Forum from the USA. I wish i could answer all of your questions. I find its a matter of trial and error with the paint issue. Other than that i can't really suggest an airbrush. Im using an Iwata Hp-Bcs series myself, and im very happy with it. But there are several good options out there. I hope you get the andwers you seek. Please ask if i can help in some other way ?

 

Dennis 

[malpaso]

Personally I'd get some builds done before worrying about an airbrush.  They are a whole lot of new skills to learn.  I've been back building models for ten years or so but only got an airbrush in the last two and it's still a learning curve!

I started off using enamel as I had carried them through the long period in the wilderness, but have mostly transitioned to acrylics for airbrushing due to smell, and speed of drying.  Mainly smell though, for domestic reasons!

Good luck!

Will

[perdu]

Hi isaneng, wonderful machines in your CV  aren't they

Now basics

Swann Morton knives and scalpels, spare blades from almost anywhere

Get/procure some needle files and sanding sticks for building and finishing

Plastic! Get a couple of cheap kits, not good ones from your collection, build them and ask if you get stuck

Guys like Jonty, the Spadgent who you have helped will leap to help you

We all will, this is like a family without nicking toast off your plate at brekkie time

Paints, this is difficult

I've had bad and good experiences with enamels and acrylics and airbrushes

My own experience just recently found me buying a Harder & Steenbeck Ultra airbrush, consider me blown away by the fantastic service from Modellingtools and its marvellous finish and cleanability

I have been using some cheapo Chinese airbrushes, best left to nail artists I fear, they are hell to clean in 'service'

If you want to use enamels I advise use Colourcoats from Sovereign Hobbies but they are mail order only except if they are at a show

Jamie is likely at Telford next month, he's on here ask him

 

I just found I needed a acrylic to practice with on my Buccaneer build and used a pot of Xtracrylics EDSG almost by accident

It is amazing and gives a great finish straight from my Ultra

Recommended

It polishes even shinier

 

Decals/transfers

Always always put decals down on a shiny surface to avoid the carrier film showing silvery

 

Then if you need matt finishes use a light go-over with a Tamiya aerosol matt varnish

 

That's all

 

Go and have fun

[Bullbasket]

7 minutes ago, perdu said:

Decals/transfers

Always always put decals down on a shiny surface to avoid the carrier film showing silvery

Unless.....(I know that this is stating the bl***ing obvious) you are using rub down transfers such as ones from Archer or Verlinden. They need to go onto a matt surface. Most of my tools have been acquired over decades. What has already been said is good advice, but I would say hat if you feel confident to use an airbrush, then go with it. IMO, mastering airbrushing, is easier than mastering full paint jobs with a brush. Get yourself a cheap one to practice with  before moving on to a better one, such as Iwata. Acrylics seem to be the way to go today, but not all brands are compatible with each other, and not all perform the same way. Tamiya, for instance, are good for spraying, but I don't find them so good for brush painting. For that I use Mig or Vallejo.

But whatever you do, enjoy your modelling, and never be afraid to ask for help. Unlike some sites, you won't get ridiculed for asking on here.

And finally.....welcome aboard.

 

John.

[Greg B]

Some really good advice here gents, keep it up for pinning

 

My tuppence:

 

What works for someone else may not work for you, be it paint, glue, airbrush, thinner or even kit. Find what works for you, especially for paints; just get a couple of pots of brands and experiment (that's where the cheap kits come in).

 

Technique is the same process. there are lots of ways to skin that cat. Don't practice on a big hairy lion first, try a more gently tabby! However,whilst you should not be afraid to try, don't be surprised if it doesn't turn out how you expect it to, sometimes it may even be to your advantage!

 

Airbrushes and Paint Brushes, either way, its all down to practice, lots of lovely practice and learning what paints and mix ratios (plus pressure for airbrushes) works for you.

 

Sometimes the kit wins the day. Most of the time its you, learn on those days that the kit is showing signs of winning to walk away and come back with a different approach (98% of us have a shelf of doom or a kit that fought all the way). 

 

Ask here how someone has done something you like the look of. The denizens here like praise because in  most cases they are human.  Apart from @Martian Hale, he's not.

 

Finally, never carelessly carry over one shoulder a rucksack with lots of dangly straps at model shows.  The locals here like a good pitchfork and bonfire session.

 

 

[gingerbob]

Didn't carefully read all prior answers, but here's my contribution:

 

Considering your time-lapse, one thing I bet you'll appreciate is more light than you thought you'd need, and a magnifier- either the "sci-fi glasses" type (Optivisor, for example), or a desk lamp with magnifier lens built in.  The magnification may not be needed constantly, but there will be times.

 

For me, having been either stagnant or glacial for many years, paint is the thing I'm really struggling with.  In the good old days I just grabbed whatever I could find that looked like the right colour.  Nowadays they're almost all "formulated for airbrush", which means they brush out like crap.  Then it isn't as simple as "enamel vs acrylic", because different lines that call themselves acrylic (for example) have very different formulations and work best with different thinners (including, sometimes, water).  Probably the best idea is to try a few different brands and stick with the one(s) you like, as much as possible.  Of course there's also the enormous question of what you can get conveniently, if any. 

 

Another bit of sage advice I'll try to remember: if you're mixing and matching, ALWAYS test it on something before you plunge on with your lovely current project- it'll save you a lot of grief when something doesn't play well with others.  This goes for paint, but also decals and their setting solutions, and clear coats, weathering (should you do that), etc.

 

As for decals, I don't remember any real trouble in the good old days (other than the ones in the kits being poor quality), but now I see frequent references to decals that stick the instant they brush up against the model, or shatter into fragments before they even get there, or refuse to conform despite being hit with a blowtorch, or...  So again, try a disposable bit on a disposable bit before you commit yourself!

 

Ah, one more bit of advice I'll never act on: Don't amass a stash!  My opinion is that when you lack for choice, you're more likely to push through some momentary obstacles on the project you've already put some effort into.  Otherwise you're likely to develop a degree of attention-deficit disorder, which can be as simple as, "Ooh, the next exciting new kit is here!" and all your excitement transfers to it from the last exciting new thing to cross your threshold.

 

And yet more "do as I say, not as I do": Don't get overwhelmed by all the seemingly masterful work you see online, just be happy with what you're able to achieve now, what incremental improvement you've hopefully made since the last, and have fun!  (You get great ideas reading other people's build logs, but you really learn how to do it by doing it.)

Edited October 16, 2018 by gingerbob

[Mike]

15 hours ago, isaneng said:

May I smile?

it's strictly forbidden here.  As is sarcasm

[perdu]

6 minutes ago, Mike said:

it's strictly forbidden here.  As is sarcasm

Is true

 

Mike says so

 

 

 

 

 

[gingerbob]

Ach, since when have we listened to him?

[Smithy]

I got back into scale modelling again in 2001 and have dabbled ever since, although with kids and work, my output fluctuates from little to bugger all. But here's my tips.

 

I am a brush painter and the two best pieces of advice I can give in regards to that is get some good brushes and just as importantly THIN your paint. Thinning the paint gives the best results if you brush paint and if you're really good at it, eliminates brush marks. Plus your paint will go further so you save money too.

 

In terms of decals, get some Micro Sol, this is a liquid you paint on after decal application and which softens the decal and draws it down onto the surface detail to give a painted on look. There's other decal softeners available some stronger (or hotter as it's often known) than Micro Sol but Micro Sol is IMHO the one with the most versatility in terms of use.

 

In terms of paint, it's a case of personal preference and a lot of that comes from using different types and finding what you like. I happen to mostly use Humbrol enamels but use some Tamiya enamels and even some Vallejo Model Air (an acrylic which is formulated for airbrushes but which I find works fine with brushing).

 

In summary and if we're specifically talking aircraft modelling, get a kit with a subject that interests you but try and stick with one of the modern tooled kits - it'll go together easier. Get some paints and something to thin them with, some nice brushes (some flat, some round - half a dozen all up should see you right to start with), some plastic decal glue, some super glue, a roll of Tamiya masking tape, some 400, 800 and 1000 grit sandpaper, a bottle of Micro Sol, an exacto knife and a big box of toothpicks. The suggestion by others of some form of magnification, either a freestanding one or wearable is also invaluable.

 

From there you can add to your model toolbox and equipment as you progress and build more.

 

Best of luck!

Edited October 16, 2018 by Smithy

[Mike]

25 minutes ago, gingerbob said:

Ach, since when have we listened to him?

Since f'rever

[PhoenixII]

Afternoon Rick,

well, I subscribe to the KIS principle, i.e. walk before you try running!

Agree with Greg B above, also with the suggestion of buying a few cheap kits to get you back into the swing.

You say your used to using brushes, carry on! Have a look at articles on here by Tonyot  Tony's Beaufighter build is in the 'Aircraft, work in progress' section, mostly / totally? brush painted, it CAN be done.

I assume you have somewhere to paint, other than the kitchen table? Thinking of domestic harmony here!

Enamel paint has a lingering smell, unlike acrylic, but, some people prefer enamel, as it's a product they've used for decades, no matter how long the hiatus. Use what you know, introduce new products slowly.

Brushes, the best you can afford. Sable ideally, squirrel being next but there are decent artists synthetic, just make sure their soft.

Stuff. As has been said, Swann Morton is the 'go to' for blades and handles, remember, these are surgical quality and WILL separate digits from appendages! treat with care. Like Scimitar, I have a heavy duty X-acto handle and razor saw blades, even have some old X-acto blades, now used as a spatula for applying filler.......IF I remember! One thing most know but not a lot practice, get a sharps box for your old blades, your local chemist is probably the best place.

Abrasive paper, if your lucky enough to have a decent motor factors anywhere close, emery or similar, 600 grit and up, most will carry up to 3000 grit, you may get lucky and find one stocking 4000, been told that that's fine enough for 1/1 vehicle finishing.

Micromesh pads, along with clamps, (light and strong enough) if your going to Telford, that's the place to look.

Sanding sticks, Flory. If your thinking of 'course' work, £ shop or superdrug.

Finally, remember its a HOBBY, granted it has the most demanding audience...........YOU.

Hope this helps in some small way.

 

Paul

[BlackAck]

Welcome back to the hobby Rick.  Enjoy it.

 

Great tips for getting started.

[isaneng]

Gents, thank you so much for the advice. I have to admit that something like lighting and magnification/vision never occurred to me and now seems bloomin' obvious! I can see some Christmas list activity coming up....

Thanks all, much appreciated!

[Mike]

58 minutes ago, isaneng said:

lighting and magnification/vision

I seldom take my Optivisor off when I'm making models these days, and you can't beat some daylight bulbs/light panels for a quality seeing environment

[Martian]

6 hours ago, Greg B said:

Ask here how someone has done something you like the look of. The denizens here like praise because in  most cases they are human.  Apart from @Martian Hale, he's not.

I never said I was but I am always more than happy to help somebody, Earthling or otherwise, if I can. Its always nice to be able to put over fifty years of getting it wrong to constructive use.

 

I use magnifying glasses made to prescription by my optician, x8 for normal silly levels of detail and x13 for totally bonkers stuff. I can wear the x8 pretty much all day and in fact wear them all the time when modelling but I can only use the x13 for more limited periods. The cunning part of the plan is that if something looks good under magnification then it must look so much better to the naked eye.

 

Martian 👽

 

 

[Martian]

52 minutes ago, Mike said:

I seldom take my Optivisor off when I'm making models these days, and you can't beat some daylight bulbs/light panels for a quality seeing environment

I seldom put my clothes on when modelling these days, it frees up more tentacles.

 

Martian 👽

[Mike]

18 minutes ago, Martian Hale said:

I seldom put my clothes on when modelling these days, it frees up more tentacles.

and you really need to sort out your auto-correct, or at least see a doctor

[Martian]

41 minutes ago, Mike said:

and you really need to sort out your auto-correct, or at least see a doctor

No not that! The problem is that your Earth clothes usually only have two arm or leg holes thus cramping my style. Enjoy your tea Mike! 

 

Martian 👽

[Adam Poultney]

On 15/10/2018 at 16:41, isaneng said:

Good evening all.

 

Ok, I have watched several people in both WIP and RFI, and have been truly amazed at the results I have seen. It is many, many years since I last put a hairy stick to a piece of plastic (34 years?), so perhaps time to try again. I have a small stash, aircraft I have flown over those years - in fact by comparison to some, I hesitate to even call it a stash!

 

So, Q's.....

 

Paint.

It was all enamel then, but acrylic seems to be the current favourite. I have googled a few reports, but does anyone have a convincing argument either way. I am thinking acrylic for airbrushing.

 

Airbrush.

I have never owned one. So, a good brand for a newbie? Luckily YouTube has some great educational vids, and many of the chaps here are very helpful with their advice.

 

Stuff...

Ok, some decent brushes (any recommendations?). Some good blades (still X-acto?). Clamps. Paper and sticks for standing. 

 

I am in some ways lucky - I am old enough to afford what I need without worrying about pocket money! But I'm also aware that patience and preparation are hugely important. Looking forward to buying some practice plastic, but any advice, both practical and general, is gladly sought!

 

Thanks all,

 

Rick.

Start again where we all begin... 

Airfix 1:72 Spitfire MK.Ia