Engraving Panel Lines

[Whisperjet]

Hi,

I'm currently completing a number of kits which involved some puttying and sanding and I was wondering what techniques and tools you guys can recommend to recreate the lost panel lines. I have been using the Tamiya scriber but I'm not really happy with the results and it is simply not usable in some areas (e.g. near the wing-fuselage transition)

Thank you very much for your input!

Stefan

[Nigel Heath]

What you need is a MMU (I think)scriber. I will send details when I get home if you can't find it.

[Giorgio N]

My favourite tool for difficult areas is an old automatic pencil where the lead has been replaced with a suitably sized needle tip. It's very comfortable to use, easy to control and can scribe in areas where access is not the easiest and on strong curvatures. I've posted some pics in the thread in the Lightning STGB

[Parabat]

The Radu Brinzan scriber (comes as a PE fret) works well for me, coupled with some plastic Dymo tape. A Lion Roar PE stencil for the curves and squares etc.

[James G]

Hi Whisperjet,

Basically any sharp(ish) point will do. I have a dedicated scriber but a needle in a pin vise will work fine. If you are in tricky (curvy) areas use dymo tape as a flexible rule. It's not cheap but the best solution I think. You can buy in bulk from here:

http://www.euroffice.co.uk/category/office-supplies/labels-and-tags/label-tapes?brand=dymo&sortBy=SalesRankAscending&firstRecord=0&itemsPerPage=25&AFF=GG36911452&gclid=CKOitNuTvsECFafnwgod9yYA0g&s=1

I feel your pain as I am currently rescribing the Airfix 1/72 Su-27 - sooo many rivets!

Cheers

James

[Pin]

I have three different scribers for different kind of lines, in addition I find Hasegawa Trytool scribing saw set very helpful:

And yes - needle in a hand drill is irreplaceable in some cases

[vivkulan]

What you need is a MMU (I think)scriber. I will send details when I get home if you can't find it.

I think you mean this http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=474

It is the best .I use it a lot.

[Jennings Heilig]

I find most 'aftermarket' scribers to be too big a tool for the job. Almost all of them (and I've tried a bunch) create a "V" shaped line that's too wide/deep for my taste. The old school sharpened sewing needle still works the best for me. It requires more work to get a good result, but the result you get is worth it IMHO.

[Nigel Heath]

Yes, my dyslexic brain got the scriber name wrong, here it is:

As others have said, use it with Dymo tape as a guide. It can also be used freehand in some circumstances. The Trumpeter scribe is also quite good as it gives a narrower V groove than the Olfa P type cutter.

I also use a home made tool which is just a sharpened pin for omnidirectional scribing:

[Tomjw]

I just use a sewing needle in a pin vice. I then use either dymo tape or etched metal templates as a guide.

Cheers,

Tom.

[SaintsPhil]

Anyone suggest a UK source for the UMM tool?

[Nigel Heath]

I don't think there is one, you can only get it from the US.

[Fritag]

Definitely need a range of tools.

My weapon of choice is a sewing machine needle in a pin vice.

A sewing machine needle doesn't flex as much as a hand needle and I find it easier to control. I also use the trumpeter scriber and the tamiya scriber - usually very lightly just to clean up the line scribed by the needle. It's easy to overdo it and get a trench.

[Caerbannog]

Good idea with the sewing machine needle - I use the needle from a compass/divider wich is very thick at the blund end and does not flex too. For the handle I cut a cheap toothbrush (the type you get in some hotels), drilled a hole and glued the needle into it. But a nice wood dowel will probably be better (strangely I had none at hand then - would not happen to me today) My best scribing tool for circles and curves.

Rene

[SaintsPhil]

I don't think there is one, you can only get it from the US.

Thanks that's backs up my Google search results, direct it is then!

[johnd]

While I agree with most of the advice regarding the scribers, particularly the seeing needle, I can't see the attraction of Dymo tape. It has poor adhesion and is inflexible so is practically useless on a curved surface. This is a problem I've yet to crack.

John.

[Pin]

I can't see the attraction of Dymo tape. It has poor adhesion and is inflexible so is practically useless on a curved surface. This is a problem I've yet to crack.

Although I agree that it has limited usage on double curvature surfaces it is still useful on cylindrical and flat surfaces. It is not an ultimate tool but it has its niche

[Nigel Heath]

I stick the Dymo tape onto a length of Tamiya tape. Not because I think the adhesion is that bad but I found that after being used a couple of times the Dymo adhesive starts to transfer itself to the model's plastic and needs to be cleaned off. For compound curves it can be cut to the required curve. Find that curve by sticking a 10mm strip of Tamiya onto the model and tracing the line with a pencil.

[Graeme H]

Old broken hacksaw blades have good steel for homemade ones, if you have access to a grinding stone

[kev67]

Compass needle attached to a small pin vice

[Scratchbuilder]

The modified needle, for sure.

I use a graver, which can also be made from a square Swiss file, with the teeth ground off and the end ground to an angle, leaving a diamond shaped face on the end. They can be had from Squire's catalogue, I believe.

The beauty of a graver is that its sharp corner along the shank will help make its own straight line. For curves, I cut thin styrene shapes which can be held or taped to the surface. The main thing is don't overdo it. Most panel lines ar either overlaps, rather than joints, but all very small. The exception being the DH89!! I've never seen such appalling metalwork!

Cheers,

Martin