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Nigel Heath

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Everything posted by Nigel Heath

  1. Hi Folks, here is my entry for this GB: I had the Airfix kit in my stash but that is significantly showing its age so have recently purchased this from Hannants. It looks pretty nice with fine engraved panel lines and some nice detailing, there are two grey sprues: The kit is well packaged, the two clear sprues come in their own plastic bag: Shame about the moulded in wipers. Similarly the decals are well protected with a taped on piece of tissue: I won't be using most of them however as like modelling minion I have the Print Scale sheet and will be going with the Japanese scheme to tie in with my previous JSDF Flying Banana and UH-1 builds (also included in a STGB): Unfortunately, following the sale of my house in Aberdeen and move down to Dorset they are now in a storage container in Huntly, Aberdeenshire so I have purchased another set. I have also put on order a set of vinyl masking for the glazing from Kitlinx in the USA. Here are the instructions: It all looks pretty straight forward: Sadly they are completely bereft of any colour guidance on the interior so will have to rely on reference material for that, there are however plenty of walkarounds for this type so that should not be a problem. Useful sprue plans: The exterior paint schemes come on a separate sheet: Going from the yellowing on that, it looks to me that this has been in storage at Hannants since the kit's release back in 2007. I took those shots last night and have been building for most of today so will post an update of progress to date later on. Bye for now, Nigel
  2. Thanks Ced, much appreciated.
  3. I am pleased to report that good progress has been made today, best day so far I think. I made a start on the cyclic controls, the kit offerings are not terribly realistic, here is one of the main reference shots that I used to scratch build some replacements: Here is another version with a different end shape to the control which is what I based my efforts on: My starting point was to sleeve some 0.6mm brass rod with some 0.8mm aluminium tube, leaving just a small portion exposed: The method I am using can be found here. A blob of solder was then added to the exposed brass tip: That was then made more spherical using my spirit burner: That was then shaped using sanding sticks and files to the blocky sort of shape seen on the real thing: Then after adding some 0.8mm brass tube, plastic heat stretched tube, notching, annealing, bending to shape and adding some triangular pivot / mounting plates and then making the other one we have them both installed: Definitely better than the kit offerings. Next the joy sticks, the kit parts have an odd, square section to the hand grips So I carved the grips into something more realistic and got them installed: This was the main reference photo I used: For my lunch I made up a refreshing watermelon and feta salad with a lime dressing: After lunch I started work on the rudder pedals using 0.5mm rod and tube and 0.3mm aluminium tube to stop the solder filling the brass tube: After trimming that up I made three more and got them all installed: Next in went the foot rests: With those in I think the cockpit is finished and ready for some paint. I still had some detail to add in the cabin though, one of these required a plate with a swage in the middle, again I used the thinner metal of a numbered tab to create the swaged effect: Here is that installed along with a few other details, including another length of Archer raised panel line decal on the sloped floor, more on that later: The whole floor is nearing completion, I think fabricating the cabin seats is the last big job left before breaking out the airbrush. Bye for now, Nigel
  4. Nice to have you back on board, I was starting to wonder where you were.
  5. Today I am pleased to report that my postie came bearing modelling related items. First we have the pre-painted seat belts for this build: Not strictly accurate but they were the nearest I could find. Then we have some more Archer rivets which I bought from them directly: These are not strictly intended for this build but they may come into play. I also popped out to collect the masking sets Anil has made for my on his vinyl cutter along with some clear green film I intend to use on the landing lights and instrument panel: I have not had much time to do actual modelling but I have installed all the wiring on the back of the instruments - all 26 of them: I have also added this blocky gunsight thing to the top of the instruments using some 1.5mm card and drilled some additional holes for the wires to feed into: Next I am going to work on fabricating the cyclic controls. Bye for now, Nigel
  6. If only such a thing was available I would definitely be making use of it. Sadly it's not. Not the greatest photo but to make the guide tracks for the upper side door I started by flattening some 0.5mm diameter lead wire using one of my bigger punches as a roller: That was then progressively installed using extra thin superglue: The track for the other side will only be fitted once the fuselage has been closed up. I have also finished adding the instrument mechanisms to the back of the IP: I ran out of stretched square section material so added some circular ones for a bit of variety and visual interest made as per the method described above from round sprue. The next job will be to add the wiring to those. Bye for now, Nigel
  7. Nigel Heath

    KV-107 JGSDF Okinawa rescue scheme

    This is looking superb after the panel line wash. The rotor head and additional detailing are also really nice.
  8. Having been away visiting my cousin on Friday and Saturday, today is the first chance I have had to get any more done on this. First let's have a closer look at the instrument panel: Here is a good set of photos of the real thing, or at least one of it's versions: Hmm, bit of clever html manipulation going on there - quite pleased with myself. Like @milktrip I want to add some substance and wiring to the back of the IP so marked out in pencil where the instruments should be: Next I drilled through some 2.5mm square Evergreen strip: Then using my spirit burner I stretched that out like so: When cut through I now had some nice squarish 1mm section with a tiny hole running through it: That was then cut up into blocky lengths and applied to the back if the IP to represent the instrument mechanisms: Next I made a start on the foot rests. I found some suitable candidate parts in my spares box and got them ready for soldering up the unrequired holes like this: After soldering, they looked like this: With some cleaning up and trimming I got them to this stage: This is one of the best photos I could find on what the pedals and foot rests should look like: I think I will leave actually applying them until after the pedals themselves are installed. @azureglo has reported that he has finished the canopy masks and dropped them off with his mum who lives near me and so I will be collecting them on Tuesday. Happy Easter to everyone. Bye for now, Nigel
  9. Ah yes, his own tin island. I was wondering what that meant till I met him.
  10. Nigel Heath

    KV-107 JGSDF Okinawa rescue scheme

    I for one can't wait to see this slightly dirty bird, sounds a bit kinky. I'm always in for that.
  11. Anybody know where Aaron aka @milktrip is? It would be nice to know.
  12. OK, a little bit more done before bedtime. On to the equipment boxes I used a 0.4mm drill to drill three holes into some 2.5mm square rod but on the last hole the drill snapped, fortunately it was well drilled through and after cutting of the section I was able to extract the broken bit: Those drills cost £1 each so those three holes have cost me 33p each. Actually it's not quite as bad as that as the broken drill stubs can still be usable. Next another box was cut from some 1.5mm card: That was added on top of some plastic C section so along with anther 2.5mm square box we have this: That view does not really count of course, what matters is what it will look like when viewed from the side door where we have something like this: I hope you all liked that. Signing off for now, Nigel
  13. I think paint is still a way off, there are quite a few more things I need to sort before then. From the top of my head they are in no particular order: Equipment boxes on the cabin shelves Rudder pedals and foot rests Cabin seats Cabling and plumbing in the cabin Cyclic controls Joysticks Wiring on the back of the IP A bit more detailing on the cabin side wall I am going to book the week after this one off from work and providing the weather doesn't tempt me to spend most of it out in the garden I would expect to be getting some paint on then.
  14. Nigel Heath

    CH-46 U.S. Marines-Vietnam (Academy 1:48)

    Cracking work on the decals, it really does look the part.
  15. Good point about all the wiring and plumbing. I think most of it has to be added after painting as it's typically a different colour from the general grey of the interior but some preparation such as drilling of holes needs to be done before then.
  16. Nigel Heath

    KV-107 JGSDF Okinawa rescue scheme

    Looks great with the decals on. Thanks for all the feedback on the shortcomings of the Print Scale decals, duly noted and I will hopefully avoid the worst of the pitfalls when I get to using mine. And I got you onto page 3.
  17. Modelling wise today has been entirely concerned with winch construction. I did however add a bit more detail to the bulkhead last night as well as trimming out a blank for the winch frame: With tin snips and a sanding stick that was shaped like so: Then folded to shape on my bending tool: Next I made a start on the winch drum using a length of plastic tube and a 2.5mm punched out disc of card: With the other send capped off with another disc I then wrapped it with some tinned copper wire to represent the cable: Next I made a couple of shaped side pieces from some 0.4mm card based mainly on this reference picture: With those added I glued in the drum and added the whole assembly to the bulkhead: The final part (for now) was to add a 1.6mm disc of card to represent the hub drive: There a few more parts to add but those are best done after painting I think. I think the next job will be to add some equipment boxes to the shelves as per this reference photo: But now I need to get a baked potato in the oven for my dinner. Bye for now, Nigel
  18. After a dinner of chilli beef and lettuce wraps (from Gordon Ramsay's "Ultimate Cookery Course" recipe book) I have got a bit more done. The next shelf was fabricated much like the first with a combination of 0.5mm brass rod and sheet soldered on the underside with two different melting point solders: After a bit of clean up and installed it looked like this: I then made the intermediate shelf out of a scrap of 0.5mm card with a piece of 0.5mm L brass section on the underside: Here is that installed: I have also sorted out the filler above the doorway ready for the new winch. Next the fourth shelf made out a bit more of scrap 0.5mm card with some 0.5mm strip underneath: I think there are two more shelves to add and then I will get on with the winch for which have a few ideas. I am also pleased to report that after a after a chat with @azureglo aka Anil tonight, he is well on the way to completing the canopy glazing and will hand deliver these to me next Bank Holiday Monday. If you haven't guessed already I am having a lot of fun on this build - it's completely ridiculous. Bye for now, Nigel
  19. Hi folks, I am pleased to report that my new soldering iron bits arrived on Thursday: I got to work with the chunkiest of these using this set up to attach the front edge of the lower shelf using regular electronic lead free solder (MP circa 210C): I then completed the soldering of the side of the shelf using 145C melting point solder with my iron dialed down to 75% power level: To add some detailing to the shelf I used my mitre box to cut off a length of 1 x 1.5mm Albion Alloys C channel: The base of that was then tinned using 70C melting point cadmium solder and my iron at 50% power: That was then soldered onto the shelf with this set up: After some further clean up including a degrease in some cellulose thinners and drilling a 1.2mm hole the completed shelf was added using regular super glue at the back: As a reminder this is what I was trying to reproduce: I think the next job will be to get the other shelves made and installed. Bye for now, Nigel
  20. Thanks Anil, your efforts are much appreciated. I actually looks a lot better than the masking set I bought.
  21. Nigel Heath

    KV-107 JGSDF Okinawa rescue scheme

    Very neat and tidy finish on the exterior, a panel line wash will bring it all together for sure. Nice of the Luftwaffe to leave some RLM 70 paint behind for their ally to use on future projects. They were a forward planning bunch. I haven't even really looked at the rotors yet but I would imagine some hydraulic hoses made from some lead wire would be pretty much mandatory. Looking forward to seeing how yours come out.
  22. Yes, my poor old iron bit has almost completely corroded through. I got a new set of bits (and PE seat belts) on order last night and should have them by the end of the week.
  23. I have a bit more to report before bed time. I made a start on the racking shelves next to the cabin corridor by drilling some 0.5mm holes and then bending some 0.5mm brass rod in situ with round nose pliers: After a bit more manipulation I had the shelf surround: I then tried to solder on a thin brass sheet shelf using this setup but heat sink effect was too great for my soldering iron: I think my iron should easily be able to do this, examining things I have come to the conclusion that my soldering iron bit is worn out, it has thinned down and can't deliver enough heat, and needs replacing. I do poses new bits but like most of my stuff they are in storage so will have to buy some new ones before proceeding with this. I also have to reorder the seatbelts as the supplier I ordered them form has said they don't know when they will be getting more in stock. Bye for now, Nigel
  24. I have come to much the same conclusion, not only would the "ladder rung" features have to be removed but the existing trough is not deep enough and it would be a heck of a job deepen that.
  25. I have made quite good progress today but it started with some destruction. I think this lump at the top of the bulkhead is supposed to be a representation of the winch but it's in the wrong place and will interfere with the retracted upper door so it has to go: I think I will scratch build a more accurate version and put it in the correct place. As a reminder this is where it should be in relation to the retracted upper door: After filling the hole left by the winch removal with white Milliput, I turned my attention to the front of the cockpit. First I added the lightening holes thus: I haven't found any pictures of this area so I'm basically just copying what @milktrip did on his build. Again pretty much copying what Aaron did, I started on the fabrication of the IP support by making a cardboard template: A search in one of my scrap boxes located a piece of 0.95mm card that was once going to be the replacement cockpit floor on my Helix build: Cut out with a combination of scissors and knife action the part was then refined on the model: That was then turned into the master for the cutting and shaping of the second part. I needed three internal reinforcement pieces, the end stop on my mitre box is ideal for producing identical multiples like this: I used 2.5mm square Evergreen strip for the reinforcements but realized they would block some of the lightening holes in the side pieces so cut off some heavy chamfers on the corners and got the first two added like so: Here is the finished structure: The final job before bath and dinner time was to fill the ejector marks on the back of the IP, clean up the nasty gate marks and sand off the pips on top of the coaming which I have decided are defects and don't represent anything in reality: I think the next job with be fabrication the cyclic controls. Bye for now, Nigel
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