This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Navy Bird

Gold Member
  • Content count

    5,174
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    25

Navy Bird last won the day on April 8

Navy Bird had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

8,488 Excellent

About Navy Bird

  • Rank
    Completely Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 29/03/55

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rochester, NY USA
  • Interests
    Defeating conditions that end with "oma."

Recent Profile Visitors

6,402 profile views
  1. Very nicely done! It seems the 1:48 Airfix kit has the same amount of issues to be fixed that I had with the 1:72 version. But you tamed the beast! Cheers, Bill
  2. I'm pretty sure that Chuck Yeager is still alive...I guess that's why "estate" is in quotes. I wonder what my "estate" is planning behind my back. Darn kids anyway... Cheers, Bill PS. And I would buy Yak-9s by the boat load, too. C'mon Airfix - do it!
  3. Thanks for the offer, but I have the Pete's Hangar conversion set, plus the old Revell kit as well. I think I'll be OK. I've started the WIP thread - have a look if you have a chance. Cheers, Bill
  4. I'm using this same kit (0952), and it was purchased new. The only decal sheet provided did NOT have any instrument panel or console decals labelled 41-45 as shown on the F-111G instruction sheet addendum. The cockpit decals on the included sheet are labelled 72-76, and these are shown on the F-111C instruction sheet. I noticed this as soon as I started working on the cockpit. If this situation is normal, I'm afraid that no one will have any extras...sorry. I suppose there's always a chance that Hasegawa left them out of my kit, and that they really are out there. But I suspect that it's just a snafu on the part of Hasegawa. Cheers, Bill
  5. Well, it ain't perfect but I think it's close enough. The instrument panel was built from the kit parts, kit decals, and Eduard photoetch for the F-111D/F and the F-14A. A little bit here, a little bit there... The AWG-9 radar display is a bit too large, and I probably should add some more buttons to the right of it. It certainly doesn't look like any other F-111 panel, though, that's for sure. The F-111B has flight controls only for the pilot, and the Missile Systems Officer has a radar controller joystick either on the right console or on the right sidewall. There is a mock-up photo that shows it folding out of the sidewall in Tommy's monograph, but I don't know what was actually used in the prototypes. I installed the two pair of photoetch rudder pedals in the cockpit before I realised that they should only be on the left side. Let's just assume those on the right are footrests! There is a raised channel that runs between the Missile Systems Officer's legs, in place of where the flight control joystick would normally have been. This will need to be added. I'm off to Maryland tomorrow to catch an Orioles game on Sunday. Oh, yeah, to see the grandkids too. Gotta remember not to forget about that. It's an easy drive through central Pennsylvania, and if I time it right I can stop at the Turkey Ranch for lunch and have a nice big turkey waffle. With gravy! Cheers, Bill
  6. Looking forward to this one - love that scheme! Cheers, Bill
  7. I never realised the HB kit had so many problems. Bummer. Great work fixing the splitter plates, though. I have the exact opposite problem on my F-111B conversion. The 1:72 scale Hasegawa F-111C has kinked splitters, but I need straight ones! Gotta love it...at least I have some straight splitters in the ancient Revell kit that might be able to be used. Cheers, Bill
  8. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I need to get the CAD part down first - my days of being a mechanical engineer were back when the tools of the trade were lettering templates, mechanical (not electronic) calculators, french curves, log & trig tables, and a drawing board. Oh, and vellum, too. Gotta put those lines on something! Cheers, Bill
  9. It's highly unlike me to have any more than one kit going at a time - having three four pokers in the fire has me head spinning. Cheers, Bill PS. That one is really going to take forever, as I have to master the art of 3D printing. Arghh.
  10. I've been spending some time on the cockpit, as I want to have the forward fuselage all buttoned up before I slice off the Aardvark's nose. Since my plan is to model 151972, I started with a photo of her cockpit. This has some significant differences from the USAF versions, notably in the missile control officer's instrument panel. The large radar targeting screen used with the Phoenix missile system is quite obvious. The pilot's instrument panel is more similar to that in the F-111A. The Hasegawa kit includes those wonderful flat surfaces for the instrument panel and consoles, upon which you are directed to apply stickers representing the dials and controls. I prefer these to be more three-dimensional, and the Eduard photoetch will help here. If you recall, my photoetch set is for the F-111D/F, so there is no way it will look like the B. Eduard provide two instrument panels, one for the D (left) and one for the F (right) - this is an earlier Eduard set, before they got all fancy with pre-painting: Eduard provide paper backing for these panels, instead of film, with the large screen displays printed in some really garish colours. Not sure what they were thinking on this one. Needless to say, there are bits and pieces (apologies to the Dave Clark Five) that I can use, but I'm going to have to cut up these photoetch panels. I don't use any fancy "photoetch shears" or other high price tool, just a nice pair of Fiskars scissors I picked up at Walgreens for $3.99. Here is the first slice: The left is from the D, and the right is from the F. Now here is where it will get a little tricky. To duplicate the instrument panel in 151972 (in a reasonable but not exact fashion) I'll have to cut these into smaller pieces, which will be re-arranged and glued to the Hasegawa instrument panel backing. The instrument panel stickers on the Hasegawa sheet will also be cut up and applied to the re-arranged photoetch. What's missing from this jigsaw puzzle, of course, is that big honking display for the AWG-9 radar. My plan here is to purloin an Eduard pre-painted photoetch piece made for an F-14A model. It won't be exactly right, but it will sure be better than nothing! Stop back sometime in the next day or so and I should have the instrument panel ready - maybe even the entire cockpit. The resin Escapac 1C ejection seats needed to have a bit of material removed from the bottom and back sides, in order to set properly in the cockpit. They've been painted and are being detailed. Based on colour photos of the 1C seat used in other aircraft, and on the grey-scale cockpit photo above as well as others in Tommy's monograph, I think it's safe to assume that the cushions were a grey-green colour, with grey harnesses. This will definitely look better than the typical F-111 with red cushions! Cheers, Bill
  11. Nothing on the Spit I'm afraid, due to the Canberra completion, but I'm just about to put some Dark Sea Blue on the XF15C. Plus, I've managed to trim the vacuform canopy so that it matches the fuselage, and open it up to boot. Without cursing, which I rank as the major accomplishment for 2017. I've also started an F-111B conversion over in the F-111 STGB, so I suspect that and this build here will take up my time until they're finished. It's highly unlike me to have any more than one kit going at a time - having three pokers in the fire has me head spinning. I'll probably end up doing something stupid like spray the Dark Sea Blue on the F-111B, and the Light Gull Grey on the Spit. I guess that leaves Ocean Grey/Dark Green for the Curtiss. Cheers, Bill
  12. Me mum always said "Practice!" Cheers, Bill PS. Your work is exquisite. Seriously exquisite.
  13. Thank you! Cheers, Bill
  14. Some thoughts on the nose job... @Tailspin Turtle has provided some great drawings on his web site, and I decided to print out the forward fuselage drawing at the proper scale. This picture shows Tommy's drawing, the port fuselage half of the Hasegawa F-111C kit, and the resin nose from the Pete's Hangar conversion set: I have the Hasegawa part aligned to the drawing using the canopy edges, although that's hard to see on the photo. You can see a short pencil line that I've drawn on the side of the fuselage - this line is 6 mm from the front edge of the ejection capsule panel line, which I believe is where Pete's Hangar would have you cut the Hasegawa fuselage. Their instruction sheet simply says "6 mm from front of canopy." I measured the resin nose at its join line with the fuselage using a digital caliper - it's 21.5 mm wide by 18.5 mm tall. Next, I taped the Hasegawa forward fuselage together like so: I then measured the fuselage at a position represented by the line that is 6 mm from the front of the ejection capsule panel line - surprisingly, the dimensions are very close to those of the resin nose. At most, there is a tenth of a millimetre difference. But I'm not entirely happy. It looks like if I simply join the resin nose at that point, the slope along the top won't be right. If you look at Tommy's drawing (and at photos of the real thing) the slope along the canopy windscreen continuing onto the nose is almost a straight line. There is tiny bit of a kink at the transition from windscreen to nose, but it's very small. This almost constant slope of the forward fuselage is so important to get right - it's part of what makes the F-111B look so unique. This is the "top slope" I'm referring to: I think (but I have to study it some more) that I'll have to cut the fuselage at an angle in order to get this top slope correct. I also think that the top of the fuselage right in front of the windscreen will have to be modified as it doesn't follow this top slope. You can see the difference on the F-111C here: As noted on Tommy's website, the actual transition line (where the real F-111B nose attached) is along the front edge of the crew capsule. Unfortunately, that is not how the resin conversion is designed - in order to have the proper overall length, the nose needs to be attached 6 mm in front of the front edge of the crew capsule. And that small 6 mm of top fuselage surface is at the wrong angle and won't match the "top slope." I hope I've explained this issue so you can understand. Measure thrice, cut twice, and then fill it with putty, that's my motto! Cheers, Bill
  15. Nice work, Tommy! Would you happen to have a drawing and dimensions for the F-111B Phoenix pylon? Cheers, Bill