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Evil_Toast_RSA

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About Evil_Toast_RSA

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  • Birthday 12/31/1979

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    The Last Outpost South Africa

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  1. I was doing some idle research for a Hun in my stash today, and ran across a article that stated it was finished in an aluminium lacquer instead of a bare metal finish, which came as a bit of a surprise to me (along with the MiG-15 revelation a few weeks back). Is there a concise list of aircraft that were bare metal or lacquer finished somewhere on the net/here?
  2. Well, that's a confirmed theory then! Is there a way to differentiate between the rubbish tins and the newer better tins by the label? The ones that turned to goo had Made in UK on them, so I'm a bit wary here. Also, no worries on the time between coats. I usually only get to do this in the evenings so it's usually 24 hours between coats!
  3. That's the problem. Tamiya enamels don't seem to be available in the Northern Hemisphere from what I've seen. I'm working under the assumption that they would be more airbrush orientated (which I can confirm, they spray amazingly well). Did my usual routine, model cleaned with 90% IPA, primed (Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer, Humbrol primer turned into a gel ) and I even left the one coat on from Friday eve to Monday eve and it still lifted.
  4. It looks like it's Tamiya paint day here in the sub-forum, so I'll add my question to complete the range. Only have Humbrol and Tamiya enamel ranges available locally. First off. Humbrol is out. Tried some last year, and of the 8 tins I bought, 3 turned into some sort of jelly like substance in the tin, Coal Black can't make up it's mind if it's Satin, Gloss or Matt and the Ochre and Desert Yellow are fine. The other 2 remain unopened in disgust. So. Tamiya enamels. Used them too and I ran into a problem that it would dissolve and lift the previous layer. What did I do wrong? Not thinned enough (used their brand enamel thinner X-20)? Hell, even used one of their own branded brushes. Help!
  5. No worries chap, my brother lives in the Dark Ages Cornwall, I just prefer it here. I was worried that the needles weren't interchangeable, and seeing as how I have the reflexes of a drunk jersey cow, spares are kind of important to me. But it turns out that's a non issue.
  6. Mmmm. The guy locally started selling H&S last year October, so looks a bit dicey. Can a V2 needle still fit in a V1 brush?
  7. Care to elaborate on when the needle change happened? Also, any tips on identifying old from new (part code I guess)? Sadly buying from Blighty is going to be a problem on many levels. After postage and currency conversion, I run the risk of my item being on the wrong end of a five fingered discount when it reaches my shores, unless I insure, in which case I can buy it here new for the same price! Thanks for the link though.
  8. Both brushes fall inside my limited budget. Which one would you recommend based on ease of use, reliability and general painting characteristics? Have an old Badger 200 for priming and base coating, but would like something for finer work. Thanks!
  9. Quick question for those who use the above. What would you recommend for the finishes below? NMF: Thinking Aluminium & Dark Aluminium. What about the 3rd option, Matt Aluminium or Duraluminium? Something else? High Speed Silver: White Aluminium sounds like a good idea, but open to suggestions here. Please note that due to my geographic location and my desire to not get beaten to death by the wife, ALCLAD is out of the question. I only have access to Humbrol (so much awful since I last used them in the 90's), all ranges of Tamiya paints (yes, enamels and lacquers too) and Vallejo (my preferred choice). Thanks
  10. Can confirm, tried this with my current build, and the cleaner (71.X99) works much better than the dedicated thinner (71.X61) using the Air range. I can only assume it will work the same with the Model Color range. Using the Flow Improver (71.X62) helps too, and try using one of their Mediums if you feel so inclined. Tamiya Acrylics are a good range too, especially for beginners, being virtually idiot proof. When I started airbrushing I seriously messed up my thinning ratio, and there was no running or sagging involved. I switched back to Vallejo due to finally getting a source in my country to buy from (used it extensively in the UK for my wargamming stuff) and getting a bit frustrated with their limited range mostly. Using their own lacquer thinners works amazingly well, and one day I may get hold of Mr Colour Leveling Thinners to try, but the consensus online leads me to believe its a very good match.
  11. Related question if I may. Building a 1/72 F-15D by Academy. They use a Light and Dark Ghost Grey scheme (the name escapes me, but exactly like the modern A-10 scheme?). I was always under the impression F-15 = Gunship Grey. Is that a scheme used?
  12. If your wanting to stick with enamels, I can't really help you there unfortunately. For acrylics, I would recommend Tamiya. The range is idiot proof, so whilst experimenting with your air brush, any over thinning on your part won't be an issue for example. Then once you feel confident enough, feel free to do some research and see what locally available brand you think will be a good fit for you if you want a change.
  13. Sigh. Looking at those pics makes me feel bad at my attempts to do that. Anyway, question for someone here. Getting Bare Metal Foil here is a tedious process that fills me with loathing. Have the Foil Adhesive from Microscale, and played around with it last year and hit a substantial razor blade in the candy floss of life. Whilst getting the thin aluminium kitchen foil over the leading edge, I pulled up a big chunk of foil I put down a few days earlier behind it by removing the excess off cuts. - How long does that adhesive take to fully cure? The edges were not very attached, but the rest of the foil was bonded like nobodies business. Is it better to put the glue on the plastic or are the instructions to put it on the foil to be obeyed without question? - would it be a good idea to lightly sand the plastic beforehand (1000/1500 grit?) to give the adhesive a rough surface to key onto? Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.
  14. Building a A-7 Corsair II at the minute, and hit a razor blade in the candy floss of life. The avionics bays are noted to be Interior Green (Gunze 58/27). I bought some Vallejo Zinc Chromate Green (71 094) but looking at it, it's too bright and green, I think. Any tips on mixing up a batch (using yellow I'm guessing) or if Tamiya XF-4 would be a good match? Thanks!
  15. Maybe try sticking it in the freezer for a few hours? Failing that, soak the pieces in something a bit more menacing like lacquer thinners if you think it's dried paint?
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