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About Evil_Toast_RSA

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  • Birthday 12/31/1979

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    The Last Outpost South Africa

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  1. My first kit all the way back in 1985. I think I painted it Dark Green and Bronze though !
  2. Yes, you can! Try get some Vallejo/any acrylic Flow Improver and use that to prevent tip dry. I personally use their own thinners and flow improver on mine.
  3. I gave up on #2109 (same time frame/same base kit) a few months back, and those decals were of the rubbish quality. I would suggest aftermarket or spares personally. [EDIT] - as for the kit, it's not bad for something made in the early 90's (I think?), but the front fuselage section on mine was horribly mismatched and didn't want to spend the time on something that cost me next to nothing to get in the first place. The intakes are a bit tricky too, no positive joining tabs/holes/anything, just a fillet joint.
  4. No worries, have an airbrush and am fully aware of the differences and how to get both to spray properly. Now, onto the cockpit. This very thread and 2 different kit instructions have given me the idea that a Tornado's office should be viewed as Shrodinger's cockpit! Is it D.A.G? Is it Light Gray? Is it XF-25? Eurgh! Looks like I'm biting the bullet here and buying Humbrol No.5 (and I'm tired of throwing full pots away...).
  5. Vallejo range perhaps? I can't see anything specifically mentioned as being a BS381c - 638 equivalent, but have Ocean Gray (71.273) and Sea Grey (71.049). Thoughts? How does the Vallejo RAF Dk Green (71.234) stack up to XF-81?
  6. Not going to lie, this has been the main reason for my post. Been looking at other manufacturers instructions on Scalemates (surprisingly not many...) and noticed this. Which confuses me a bit as to why there would be this difference in production of the real thing? Thanks for the answers!
  7. Building a Revell 1/72 GR.1, but having problems matching Revell paints (not available locally) to Tamiya or Vallejo colours. What colours would be recommended for the cockpit and seats, wheel wells and airbrake wells, air intakes and the Dark Grey used on the wraparound camouflage (think it's BS631c - 638?). Hope someone could help me out here. Thanks!
  8. Name of show? I swear the bell is ringing in my head, but it seems the hunchback is out for lunch right now... [EDIT]- It's in the title. I did mention the hunchback right?
  9. I'm guessing you have no access to the Gunze branded thinners? If so, Tamiya Acrylic & Lacquer thinner, Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA/Rubbing alcohol) and plain old lacquer thinners (think you refer to it as cellulose thinners in blighty?) work just fine.
  10. Try using the Flow Improver ( 71.261) and use the Airbrush Cleaner (71.099) instead of the thinners, live in a humid climate myself and that reduced my tip drying problems quite substantially.
  11. I was doing some idle research for a Hun in my stash today, and ran across a article that stated it was finished in an aluminium lacquer instead of a bare metal finish, which came as a bit of a surprise to me (along with the MiG-15 revelation a few weeks back). Is there a concise list of aircraft that were bare metal or lacquer finished somewhere on the net/here?
  12. Well, that's a confirmed theory then! Is there a way to differentiate between the rubbish tins and the newer better tins by the label? The ones that turned to goo had Made in UK on them, so I'm a bit wary here. Also, no worries on the time between coats. I usually only get to do this in the evenings so it's usually 24 hours between coats!
  13. That's the problem. Tamiya enamels don't seem to be available in the Northern Hemisphere from what I've seen. I'm working under the assumption that they would be more airbrush orientated (which I can confirm, they spray amazingly well). Did my usual routine, model cleaned with 90% IPA, primed (Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer, Humbrol primer turned into a gel ) and I even left the one coat on from Friday eve to Monday eve and it still lifted.
  14. It looks like it's Tamiya paint day here in the sub-forum, so I'll add my question to complete the range. Only have Humbrol and Tamiya enamel ranges available locally. First off. Humbrol is out. Tried some last year, and of the 8 tins I bought, 3 turned into some sort of jelly like substance in the tin, Coal Black can't make up it's mind if it's Satin, Gloss or Matt and the Ochre and Desert Yellow are fine. The other 2 remain unopened in disgust. So. Tamiya enamels. Used them too and I ran into a problem that it would dissolve and lift the previous layer. What did I do wrong? Not thinned enough (used their brand enamel thinner X-20)? Hell, even used one of their own branded brushes. Help!
  15. No worries chap, my brother lives in the Dark Ages Cornwall, I just prefer it here. I was worried that the needles weren't interchangeable, and seeing as how I have the reflexes of a drunk jersey cow, spares are kind of important to me. But it turns out that's a non issue.
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