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Troy Smith

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About Troy Smith

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    Sussex by the sea...I can it from the hill at least

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  1. I presume this had som einput into one of DP Caspar latest decal sheets in 72nd some of the above are in DP Caspar 'six day war' sheet as well. cheers T
  2. Hi Julien Aeroclub did a multimedia kit of a NF.14, OOP now more builds if you google Aeroclub Meteor NF 14 There might have been a another vac kit.... another google says ID Models HTH T
  3. but, the SH Seafire III 'last flights over the pacific' boxing does have the right markings, plus hook, folding wing, strengthening plates etc. For some reason the SH Spitfire kits get niggled on a lot, and, yes, the wing is 'too far back' as it's a bit short in the fuselage, but the Hase V is a little slim, and it's too short as well, IIRC, in the same place as the Hase V.... this is the SH Seafire III with an extension, the orange on the rear wing fillet is how much you need to remove note the light grey fuselage is the new tool Airfix V, which is rated as being right by everyonewho has an opinion on Spitfire kits and this from above, the orange is the bit too remove, when you move the wing this shows just how 'short' the SH kit is compared to the new tool Airfix VB, and how much and where you need to add a couple of splices if you think it's needed. Note these are lined up on the cutting matt grid see the links in here for more about the SH Spitfire/Seafire family Steve have a read, but IMO even faffing about with the splices is easier than cross kitting, as you still need to then fill and fair in the different underwing cooler between the V and IX, and then add the naval stuff, and deal with the ICM having cack wheel hubs, etc etc. when the SH kits has the rest of whe you need in the box, plus the right decals and some useful etch. And the right cockpit sidewalls, unlike most older Spitfire kits. And, worth noting that if you want a Avenger with folded wings the Hobby Boss Avenger has them, and this seems to be one of Hobby Boss better kits (prob scaled down from the 1/32nd Trumpeter Avenger) and is supposed to have a better canopy, I've read that the AM Avenger has a canopy that is a bit too narrow at the top, the HB is supposed to be better. here's a inbox review of the HB and HTH
  4. Hi Sean this is a scan of the colour chips Graham is referring too, and this is a fair reproduction of the colours (I have the book and paint chips) the 'red' is the colours above has a definite brown cast good quality period colour shots show this as well Sea Hurricane by Etienne du Plessis, on FlickrSea Hurricane by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr New Mosquito. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr I have some of the Hannants sheets, and they look to be decent matches to the full size colours, so perhaps a bit dark on a model. IIRC you were making masks, so what paint did you use for 'red' when using those? HTH T
  5. Hi CC I used a Tamiya -1, they all use the same fuselage After posting I had a look at the kits again, the Academy -4 will fit exactly with the Hase -4, the locating pins are the same! The Academy fin is also too thick, I tried removing more from one side than the other to recreate the offset fin, but this was before I found out that the Academy was deeper and a different shape. When you get a Tamiya -1 back, try fitting the the rear cockpit bulkhead in the hase/acad fuselage, and you will see what I mean about it bein deeper. for the wing being too low, look at this and then look at the Acad/Has -4, note the postion of wing to exhaust, and then you can see the wing is too low. this is the Acad this is the Tamiya -1 for comparison, note the extra depth on the straight lower section of the angled firewall panel on Acad above It's not really horrible, but I started out just trying to thin the Academy spine, and then found more problems with the fuselage, again, assuming Tamiya got it right....but if you look at the factory photo this clearly shows the 'egg' shape, well, the bottom of it, and this is the shape of the Tamiya rear cockpit bulkhead if then look at the Acad/hase -4, you can see it's deeper, and the bottom of the 'egg' almost has corners. I just have not had the enthusiasm to do all the comparison photos .... i did bash the Acad fuselage into shape, but then the belly went wrong, and I then put it away for a while. Sorry to keep posting all the in your threads, I hope it is of interest ? cheers T
  6. Hi CC laying fuselage over each other is less useful than taping them together,it's an interesting exercise. Try a Tamiya -1 wit the Academy and hase -4's. If the HB is -5 then the nose is different. As far as the HB Corsair family goes, the only one I have, and the only one worth bothering with is the -4, as Tamiya already do a decent -1, and Hase do the -5, AU-1 and -7, both are better starting points than the HB kits of those, but the HB -4 is better than any other 1/48th -4,as it has a fuselage that is basically the same as the Tamiya in depth and shape. This is the best photo I have found of a -4 underside remember the F4U-4 is basically the same to the firewall as an F4U-1, with a new engine added on, plus some belly modifications. Here's a -1 belly I really need to do some pics but if you do tape a tamiya -1 to the Academy -4, note that the Academy is deeper, more slab sided, and the wing roots are about 2 mm lower, I corrected the fuselage, but then that messed up the belly line, I think that the Academy wings sitting too low make the belly too flat. It's hard to explain, and it's not an area commonly visible on photos If you are basically happy with the Hase -4, then taking 2 mm out of the spine of the Acadamy kit will get it to be basically the same. Here's what I mean about the 'egg shape' of the fuselage note from this that the Hase -5/AU-1/-7 cockpits are a bit shallow. see HTH? T the photo i
  7. Hi Gerrad The Old tool Spitfire Vb is still damn good in overall shape, the big problem is it has a too high thrust line, making the top of the cowling too high, and thus the spinner too big. This same glitch was copied into their 1/48th old tool Mk.I.I/II/Va. I remember it being noted in the Scale Models review in 1979, though they offered no fix. easy enough too fix, (once you know how) worked out by John Adam's of Aeroclub here's a very impressive rebuild, Unless you really like upgrading kits it's not worth the effort, but I have a couple stashed earmarked for a Speed Spitfire and Prototype, as it will be easier sanding off raised panel lines than filling panel lines and redoing, I hope! I still have uncompleted the one I converted into a Seafire II, but i did convert the B to a C wing ( circa 1980) as well a the one I did as Vb, dis assembled into major parts. cheers T
  8. not sure who by, AFAIK the Airfix 1/48th 22/24 is overall very accurate, the only real complaints I've read are the prop blades are a bit off and the rocker covers otherwise it's very highly rated. HTH T
  9. Hi CC Interesting work. Regarding the Academy F4U-4, it's heavily based on the Hasegawa F4U-4, but is too wide along the spine compared to the Hase kit, which is a reasonably easy fix. comparing the Academy -4 to a Tamiya -1 and the Academy -4 fuselage is too deep, making the wings are nearly 2 mm too low, and and lacks the 'egg' shape, It's not that obvious until you try taping the Tamiya -1 to the Academy -4, or using a contour gauge and calipers on it... I wondered if this was just another Academy glitch, so I picked up the hase (ex mania) -4 and apart from the too wide spine, they are basically the same, The Hobby Boss -4 fuselage is a very good match for the Tamiya -1 BTW I did spend an amusing couple of evenings trying to reprofile the Academy fuselage, removing width, then the wing depth, and scoring inside to allow bending to the egg shape, I ended up using the Tamiya rear cockpit bulkhead to make a new bulkhead/former to reshape the Academy fuselage. What eventually stumped me was the belly contours, as the wing now doesn't follow the contours of the now shallower fuselage One good thing about the Academy kit is they did get the cowl intake shape pretty well. Also, if you have a Tamiya P-47, all boxings have 4 blade prop that you can use to replace the Academy one. hope of interest. T PS re the cowl scoop the Academy just needs a little tweaking. The funny thing is if you search on Hyperscale there are plenty of "the Academy sucks" and "the old Hase Mania -4 is basically sound" comments, but it seems they have not compared the Hase to the Tamiya, and assuming the Tamiya is correct then the hase is pretty flawed. And if the Tamiys is correct, the HB is basically sound shapewise.
  10. erm, or just track down a 1/32nd Hobbycraft P-51A... For info big projects like this, try Large Scale Planes. Regarding the "Classic Aircraft and how to model them " series, some are better than others, and they assume in the case of the 1/24th kits, that they are accurate. They are also rather dated, but they are 40 years old... I pick them up when cheap, though I have had the Hurricane and Spitfire ones for a long time. I believe that the Spitfire, bf109, Stuka, fw 190 and Harrier to be basically decent shapewise, I read a thread on LSP about how the P-51 has some funny nose contours, and the Hurricane has some major flaws. The others may have problems, I have not checked that carefully. For the OP, "I have a damaged carcass in the loft" in that case you have nothing to lose by 'having a go' really, I'm sure folks would be fascinated, here and on LSP. Note, you may want to check if the Mustang Merlin is 'too scale' or to fit with the cowling closed, the Spitfire Merlin is reputed to be undersize to fit, the Hurricane Merlin is too scale, and so the Hurricane nose is too deep/big to allow it too fit (one of the kits problems) Finally, there was an Airfix Annual in the mid/late 70's that did an exposed engine conversion of the Airfix Mk.I to a Mk.IX using a Merlin from a Airfix Mustang, that being a leftover from a Cavalier Mustang conversion. this one (found from thread linked below) also asked here Maybe worth Heritage aviation (now Kits For Cash) did do a resin conversion set for the Airfix kit but I think that's OOP now. I think the Spit I to IX would be easier than a P-51D to A, so do the Spit first and then do the Mustang for an encore Post a WIP here and you get plenty of encouragement and suggestions Cheers T
  11. Hi Dave if you just want a bubble top D-Day Tiffie, the Italeri rebox of the Hase maybe your best bet, It only has the 3 blade prop, but should have reasonable decals, and can be picked up at a reasonable price, given the overprice nature of Hase kits these days I wouldn't be surprised if Eduard do a 'late Typhoon' boxing at some point. Regarding desert Stukas, AFAIK the only version used in the desert was the B-2, the R was used in the med, but it's the same as a B-2 with the addition of long range wing tanks. The Revell rebox of the Hase B-2 has the famous 'desert snake' option. If you have not seen them, the Hasegawa kit version tables on Modeling Madness are very useful this is the Britsh/US types, which as the various Typhoon boxings doesn't list Italeri boxing, details in the link above. Here are the German tables Regarding the Ju-87, if you want something different, they were used by the Italians, Romanians, Hungarians the Hungarian B's had 3 tone uppers and red/white /green tail stripes and Bulgarians the only other 'interesting' Ju-87 scheme are some factory desert finished one that ended up in Finland, so the uppers were repainted in dark green, but kept the RLM 78 desert blue undersides, pics in Stuka in Action book IIRC. HTH T PS forgot one Slovakia Aeromaster did a sheet of these Stock/AeroMaster/48-Scale/48-140/default.htm has a few glitches, they were not called Errormaster for nothing. ...
  12. regarding the Ju-87, you may want to narrow down which subtype, for the D and G, hasegawa is the only option, (unless you like retro modelling) Ju-87 B, the new tool Airfix has been getting positive reviews and is the only B-1 available (as used early war, BoB) though I'm sure they will do a B-2 in time. The Hase B-2 was reboxed by Revell of Germany, and can be got cheaper used, and will have better decals. see for more and why to avoid the Italeri. For a Ju-87 A the only option the Special Hobby. Me262, I've seen various opinions, including that the Monogram kit from 1979 still has the best shape.... The Tamiya is highly rated, but I've not seen any wailing or gnashing of teeth about the Hobby Boss Me 262 kits, and they do a whole family, and can be picked up cheaper. I've also not seen any howling negativity on the Hobby Boss Fw 190D's either. regarding winter finish fw 190's, there are examples of F-8's in winter whitewash. eg this is a really helpful guide to radial engine Fw 190's A/F/G, Having got this far.... Worth noting that there is a lot of airframe changes for a "Bf109 G" the advice you have been given is for G-5/6/14 versions. more examples the Typhoon , even though they are nearly all Typhoon Ib, they can cardoot or bubble hood, normal or Tempest type tail plane, 3 or 4 blade prop, along with a a whole range of detail changes. Eduard Spitfires are also sub variant specific, depending on wing fitted, apart from that they do come with all the other detail options. Mosquitos, same again, fighter, nightfighter, bomber, PR, Sea Mosquito ? I'm not trying to put you off, but I suggest you may wish to come at this from the other direction, find a scheme or aircraft you like, and then pin down the subtype/relevant kit you require, though you may find that there won't be a straight kit available. HTH T
  13. plenty of online shopping options available apart from Amazon... re the Lightning this has some actual build tips which look helpful, in particular care with the intake HTH T
  14. very interesting, but pic hosting, simple, on the large image just right click and select 'copy image location/url' bingo the link Will provided as some fascinating olid wood models that's he's salvaged. A new thread on these I'm sure would be of great interest here. cheers T
  15. SEAC Mosquito, technically northern hemisphere SEAC Mosquito XVI 1945. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr "a PR Mosquito from 684 Sqn. with two 100 gallon auxiliary tanks under the wings .Note SEAC blue identification stripes." I'm amazed no one linked this thread neat job on a challenging kit, cheers T