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Adrian Hills

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About Adrian Hills

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Sussex
  • Interests
    Early Airliners
    WWII Heavy Bombers

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  1. Had a go at the quick and dirty solution by refining a bit of cured Milliput. I always have a bit left over so form the scrap into a shape 'that might be useful one day'. Here you see the bench vice holding the bit I have shaped for pull moulding. This is an example of what it looks like. I do multiple pulls and use the best one. This was a very quickly produced first pull to see if I was going in the right direction. I then refined the plug twice more to get a lower profile but with slightly wider base. Cutting canopies at each step. The plastic was taken out of the recy
  2. Hi Alex, I'm now dremelling down a cured piece of Milliput to the approximate shape to do exactly as you suggest ! Cheers mate
  3. Just finishing off so trimmed canopy to near size before offering it up. And lo and behold it fell in the hole because it is too small F##!!+### !!!! Rather than lob the bloody thing out of the window I am now writing to the Pope for beatification - as I must have the patience of a Saint !!
  4. Nearly there. The Xtracrylic yellow has crazed on me. Sprayed according to instructions only water added as thinner. Decals with kit were very bright incorrect colours so used a variety of aftermarket ones. Note the anachronistic fuselage roundel. The kit came with a standard C type with yellow surround as painted on the real aircraft in later life. However, there was a flying photoshoot early on in the aircraft's career and the red in the middle was too small and towards the proportion of an A type. To emulate this difference I put a standard A on top of
  5. I have had Green stuff in the past but found it shrank too much. One technique a late friend taught me is mixing a thin styrene glue with Tamiya putty. Maybe I should have used that as you can put it on with a paintbrush
  6. Thanks for that info Steve, will get some of that putty
  7. Hi Pat, what is PPP ? please. In time with enough thickness of paint the smaller pinholes are gone/disguised. For bigger holes Dave Swindell's technique of drilling out and fitting small rod (I used stretched spru) works well. I'm using this build to get a handle on resin kits. Later in the year I have a build of a Blackburn B20 and a Czech Master resin Short S23 and really want to a good job on that so am noting various useful comments. THANKS
  8. Did some masking and hosed it down with a bit of Gunze Dark Green. I like to try and get the mask off as fast as possible so the paint can flow a bit and hopefully not have quite such a sharp edge for demarcation. This is a risky business as it is easy to put a thumb print in the wet paint - as I have done in the time honoured way. This last photo is an attempt to illustrate that the upper surface colours are below the wings on the engine nacelles. Quite unusual
  9. Thanks for that Marklo. I have been using CA as a filler. It seems to look a bit better so will continue as is. Cheers A
  10. Robert, I will be doing the half clear roof and adding extra cars and maybe a couple of figures. As you can see from the photo below one of the roofs has a distinctly yellow hue. That is the one from the kit I bought about 20 years ago whereas the one from 1973 is clear - just needs a good polish to remove minor scratches. Barring me making a cock up during my build, the sealed bag of clear parts and all other spare bits are yours
  11. One last throw of the dice. Filled in the top of the nacelles with Tamiya putty and then soft sanded with course emery with a little tickling up with fine. The results are marginally better and I will leave it at that. Hope to get the green on later today
  12. Well, I’ve been wanting to do it for a while, like thirty years. I have a lot on so will use my 1959 1/79 scale Mk I Blenheim - for ‘Britain First’. Just a small matter of lowering the wing and a bit of silver paint
  13. The resin on top of the starboard engine nacelle has gone soft. I have cleaned it up as best as I can. I even used Dave's technique on one hole and it worked well. However, life is too short and I have plenty of other more interesting and less frustrating builds to get on with. I will mask it up, spray green and yellow and finish the model. It'll be one of those I will hide in the model cabinet and say "Over there at the back is a Vickers 432, and moving swiftly on..... Actually I think it is down to Flouridation of the water, an international communist plot to sa
  14. Robert, And if you still want the bits, you only have to ask
  15. Hi Robert, I will be doing the SRN 4 for the Britmodeller Group Build "Unarmed". It starts on my birthday April 17th and finishes 8th of August. The inventory of my other kit shows that I have all the parts needed - including straight flooring which is quite distorted in the 1973 kit. I will take on board what you have said concerning the alignment of the roof and walls. That will no doubt be easier if I use the flattest floors. I do quite a few modifications myself. For instance last year I converted a 1/96 Lancaster to the first manifestation of the Manchester with 80ft wi
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