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Rob S

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  1. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    Contacted him (or her) but unfortunately sold out. I'll keep looking as getting the feeling I might do OO-TEF at some stage that is if I ever finish this one. Which will then beg the Question "Having done 001 and 002 will I be tempted to do 003 the first B2?" Maybe as it certain;y paraded around in a few schemes.
  2. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    OK briefly Home for a couple of days before going away again and here's a bit of a mystery for someone to hopefully solve. I found an image of this decal : Does anyone know who did it and if it is still available and if so where can I buy one (or two if I stuff it up!)?
  3. Who was it who said "You can call me anything but just don't call me late for Dinner!"?
  4. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    Many Thanks Scotty for confirming they didn't have them. I have to go away to a Site for Work so this has to go on the back burner for a while. Hopefully when I come back to it I won't have any silly ideas of dropping any Flaps or Slats. (Unless of course someone else has done it and I can try and shamelessly copy what they did?)
  5. My brain just switched off A350-1000 conversion mode when the guys mentioned Zvezda are doing it. I'm pretty sure I can wait! (But I don't think I'd be doing any cutting or inserting a Frame in that Centre section - I'd just move the wing forward, blend in the wing body fairing, make the extended gear bay, and then make that extended trailing edge keeping the same trailing edge.) Who's Garry by the way?
  6. Hello Phil : This was first raised back in 2015 : which I found when I was looking to do it (but decided to do the A300B1 first for a Group Build on another Site). I reckon the image in that Thread is more accurate than those above : I believe the key to this conversion is moving the wing one frame forward (which means a bit of cutting of the wing and then blending into the wing root which is maybe a bit harder than it sounds as that wing is a beautiful fit as it is from memory) as this should allow the gear bays to be extended to cater for a triple bogie arrangement. For the Wing by cutting the trailing edge and adding a new forward edge to it to extend the wing while maintaining the same trailing edge position should give the increased chord. Hope this helps. If you wait a month or two I'll be having a go too but if you go ahead then probably even better for me as I'll know what prob;ems you encounter and how to solve them! Best of luck - will be watching from upside down and afar.
  7. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    Just doing a bit of a photo search to determine wing root details and from the looks of it this B1 (and probably OO-TEF as well) didn't have the Krueger Flap? Can anyone verify this or have a photo that proves it did have it?
  8. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    Hello Chris : I probably would if this was a "normal" build but seeing the Fuselage has already been "cut and shut" I might do a similar thing to what I did to a part built Airfix 737-200 where I had a go a fixing it myself instead of dropping in a Daco Cockpit as I would have if it had been a build from an unbuilt kit. The thing is to find some good Plans. Ian (Turbofan) has sent me a photo comparison of the kit with Plans so that has given me something to go on.
  9. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    So after absolutely flooding the thing with Primer from the new spray can I sat in front of the TV leaning over a bowl of water sanding the Primer back with a sheet of 1200 Wet and Dry. After I got rid of a bit of it and was able to see some filler discontinuities I used a sheet of 600 (I think) to get to this stage : Saw where the errors still were so onto another round of filling : Then after it dried over night another round of sanding : Determined after taking this photo that I could still "feel" some discontinuities in the filler so spent some time after this with the sheet of 1200 to try and smooth them out. Pretty sure from now on I'm going to rely on "feel" rather than sight unless it's under a bright light and magnifying glass to determine how bad the surface is. No photo of this as got distracted having to start cleaning out the Freezer in the Garage that decided to trip out and not tell me (YUK!)and in the mean time I Primed it again : Not too bad now so going to leave it there for the minute and determine what needs to be done to the Airfix kit in terms of corrections noting if they do apply to this particular variant being the prototype and whether certain things were or weren't done to this that the other B1 and to a lesser extent B2 and B4 had done to them. If anyone knows of a good A300 build thread somewhere by all means let me know so I can have a look and attempt some shameless copying.
  10. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    Another small update. Decided to follow the first stage of the Instructions by glueing in the Doors and Hatches which is a characteristic of Airfix kits of this era. Then I decided to tape and epoxy the remaining front and rear windows seeing I hadn't done them when doing the windows between and either side of the cuts and this nearly resulted in disaster. Getting to the end of the Chinese made supposedly long curing epoxy the $#!% of a thing decided to go off almost straight away so as you can see it gelled and "twirled" when I tried to apply it towards the end. Managed to sort of retrieve the situation and then when it was dry tried to cover it up with the next twin dispenser of Epoxy. Valuable tactical information for any US Fleet wanting to pick a fight in the South China Sea - just send a fake Fleet through there so that the Chinese prematurely fire their Missiles at it and then when they have exhausted their ammunition send in the "real" Fleet! So to the photo or it didn't really happen : Those studying for their Observation Badges may note that I have cut out a bit of the Fuselage Main Wheel Wells as I thought this area was a bit shallow if left as is. Building of a new Wheel Well Floor (or what is visible of it) is another chore added to the list. So then it was bog it all up on the outside, let it set well - which in the summer time here doesn't take long - and then sand to see the faults in filling. Again a photo or it's just my imagination or a bad dream : Next step is to prime it again to clearly see the defects which I have just done with a new can of Primer Surfacer and lo and behold the additional pressure of a new can caught me by surprise so the thing is well and truly thickly coated in Primer now, Recovery Mission next ...
  11. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    LESSONS IN OBSERVATION NUMBER 42 Just noticed that the "Carbon Fibre Rod" I used is actually Carbon Fibre Tube! Must have a look at the rest of the Carbon Fibre Rod and Tube where I bought it next time I am there and see if they have any Carbon Fibre Rod small enough to go through this size Tube!
  12. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    Small update on this as haven't been feeling 100 percent lately. Thought I'd add a bit of filler on the joins just to see how bad they were : Not too bad so hit it with a bit of Primer and then bogged up the windows that had been epoxied to see how many air bubbles there were : Let it dry overnight and then wet n dried it the next day or two : A few bubbles so next time must use a pin to pierce (had to edit that as it wouldn't let me say "pin p-r-i-c-k" as it converted it to " pin gentleman's parts") the tape to bleed the epoxy through making sure of course there is something underneath it so it doesn't become a permanent fixture on the bench. Probably glue all the Doors and Hatches next and line up for correcting the front wheel well which appears to be a bit too far back to be accurate enough. Then no doubt more rounds of filling, sanding, priming, etc as is our want in Airliner Modelling.
  13. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    Next time (if whatever the fuselage is that allows room for it) I'll probably use two or three per side although that will increase the cost as that Carbon Fibre Rod isn't cheap (but it's such a neat fit inside the styrene Tube and it's stiffness is beyond reproach). This method should be OK for direct shortening but will need to be more accurate in it's placement of the tube if used for lengthening across two or more kits particularly if the long-short-long and short-long-short method is used to make a long-long-long stretch.
  14. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    OK just some background work that I did that I didn't show in case it didn't work out but now it seems the patient has survived the major surgery I'll describe it now. I "cheated" a little by doing some pre surgery work by epoxying in a tube the length of the constant section fuselage to more than cover where the cuts were when epoxying the windows against the tape on the outside : Closer examination shows that I epoxyed the halves of a bigger tube that the tube fitted into to "clamp" the tube in place over the windows as an extra precaution of the tube moving. So the idea being that when it came to cutting out the sections of the fuselage ideally the tube would still line up inside each fuselage half. Then to make sure of that lining up and also to give it some rigidity a carbon fibre rod (no expense spared with this Operation!) of a suitable snug fitting diameter was inserted through each epoxyed tube : During this process the fit of the fuselage halves was continually checked to ensure that they still fitted well (well fitted even better than out of the box owing to the warping!). P.S. Further internal "Fish Plating" / "Tabing" still to take place to ensure even further strength and rigidity.
  15. Rob S

    Airbus A300B1 F-WUAB

    I didn't mention that the Kit I am using as well as having missing parts has a bit of a bit of a problem as it's a bit warped. Also what didn't help matters was I made a mistake on the forward Port join which I have only just picked up where the forward Fuselage was slightly rotated on the Fuselage. This was the source of the "whoop" that I mentioned before and I think might have been caused by me setting down that Fuselage half on it's side which has the "pins" (as opposed to the other half that has the "locating holes" and has no issues lying flat) when some of the "pins" have broken off so it didn't "sit" right on the mat and initially set with that slight rotation/sag. I only noticed this when admiring the strength of the joints after the overnight setting of the liquid and normal cement had done it's work and the joins were welded strongly together. (Bloody strong in fact!) So I've just taken a risk and "dewelded" that join by flooding it with thin liquid cement thereby "breaking" it and now just reglued it trying to ensure that this time I've "set" it in the right position and also that it doesn't rotate or sag and that the Fuselage goes back together OK again - which is a battle in itself owing to the warp in the Fuselage halves as well as the "lipping" of the Fuselage halves (which I don't think I mentioned when first looking at this boxing).